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[terry paget]

I removed the o/s rear shock from its lower mounting hoping it would simplify removing the drive shaft; it did not. I hav now changed the dodgy diff, but cannot replace the rear shock on its lower mount. Please help.

[cam.in.head]

I would say that unless you can persuade the sleeve back into the bush as it is you will need to remove the shock completely and then with a little soap and a vice press it back in

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Yep, I would have thought a little lube and a rubber mallet should persuade it. If not, wot he said ^

[annihilator]

that mount/sleeve is part of the rear shock so you either need to free it off and refit it in a vice or you could try filling a cup with boiling hot water and submerging the shock bush in it and then try slipping it back onto the sleeve maybe with a g clamp.
John.

[terry paget]

I suppose what I need is a longer screw to pull it on. The one I removed is 85mm long, 13.64mm thread diameter and about 0.63 threads per mm.I cannot find one in my box of screws, but it must be available.

[Nick W]

I suppose what I need is a longer screw to pull it on. The one I removed is 85mm long, 13.64mm thread diameter and about 0.63 threads per mm.I cannot find one in my box of screws, but it must be available.

No, you need to align the shock with the mount.
That will probably need another pair of hands.
Some sort of lubricant on the bush would be a good idea.


Your bolt sounds like M14, but you haven't measured the thread pitch correctly.

[ronnyd]

Standard M14 (ISO) is 2mm pitch. Easiest way to measure pitch is to count how many over certain length then divide number of threads by the length you used. I,ts easier for me to do it than it is to explain to someone else. HTH

[Doctor Gollum]

That metal bush isn't designed to be removed from the shock.

Smack ten bells out of the bush to liberate it from the trailing arm and either attempt to refit it using one of the above suggestions or, better still replace the pair.

At least you know not to disturb them next time

[terry paget]

Here is the bolt. Imake it 13.64mm diameter, 35 pitches in 55mm, 1.57mm pitch, length of thread start to head is 79mm, not quite long enough to pull the bush on. 5 more millimetres and I should not have a problem.

[Nick W]

Standard M14 (ISO) is 2mm pitch. Easiest way to measure pitch is to count how many over certain length then divide number of threads by the length you used. I,ts easier for me to do it than it is to explain to someone else. HTH

You've got a bloody odd idea of easy, you must be used to imperial threads!
Metric thread pitches are defined by the distance between two adjacent crests(or roots), so the easiest way to determine what you have is to measure that distance - no counting, dividing or even thought required. This is best done with a caliper, but in the coarse pitches we're talking about here, a decent steel rule will suffice. The later post suggests that it's an M14x1.5 thread which makes it a non-preferred metric-fine bolt.


But this is all a distraction from Terry's real problem, which is that he's trying to assemble a separated bush. What he needs to do is remove the sleeve from the shock mount, and refit it into the bush. Then with some simple jiggling of the mount and shock he'll be able to assemble the parts without any extra faffing about.

[terry paget]

Now I get the impression that the tube attached to the suspension arm is part of the shock absorber bush, the tube is stuck on a short peg on the suspension arm. What I need to do is release the tube from the suspension arm (hammer, stillson wrench, heat) shove it back in the middle of the bush (lubricant, vice) and put it back on the suspension arm peg, with the screw I already have.

Have I got it right now? I have a vague memory of removing one before and it came off the peg easily.

[Andy H]

Now I get the impression that the tube attached to the suspension arm is part of the shock absorber bush, the tube is stuck on a short peg on the suspension arm. What I need to do is release the tube from the suspension arm (hammer, stillson wrench, heat) shove it back in the middle of the bush (lubricant, vice) and put it back on the suspension arm peg, with the screw I already have.

Have I got it right now? I have a vague memory of removing one before and it came off the peg easily.

Almost right - but there is no peg involved. The bush is a snug fit in a hole in the semi trailing arm.
You shouldn't need extreme violence. A 14mm bar slipped inside the bush should allow you to wiggle the bush up, down , back and forward until it falls out. Penetrating oil will make it easier.....

[Doctor Gollum]

The rubber bush shouldn't be removed from the tube. Sure sign that the rubber bush has failed.

The tube, or 'peg' needs liberating from the trailing arm... A long screwdriver or suitable piece of studding should should provide enough leverage to jiggle it free...

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Now I get the impression that the tube attached to the suspension arm is part of the shock absorber bush, the tube is stuck on a short peg on the suspension arm. What I need to do is release the tube from the suspension arm (hammer, stillson wrench, heat) shove it back in the middle of the bush (lubricant, vice) and put it back on the suspension arm peg, with the screw I already have.

Have I got it right now? I have a vague memory of removing one before and it came off the peg easily.

No, that would probably ruin the internals of the damper.

[aaronjb]

Now I get the impression that the tube attached to the suspension arm is part of the shock absorber bush, the tube is stuck on a short peg on the suspension arm. What I need to do is release the tube from the suspension arm (hammer, stillson wrench, heat) shove it back in the middle of the bush (lubricant, vice) and put it back on the suspension arm peg, with the screw I already have.

Have I got it right now? I have a vague memory of removing one before and it came off the peg easily.

No, that would probably ruin the internals of the damper.

Said tube isn't currently attached to the damper .. which is the problem that heat may remedy

[terry paget]

Thanks to all for advice. I have now got the tube of the suspension member, I'm learning all the time. It seems reluctant to re-enter the rubber bush though, needs force and lubricant.
Last evening I had  bit of a barney with the jack and bits of wood. Can you spot anything out of order here?
[/img]

[tunnie]

I had this on the 3.0 Estate, damn shock was came off leaving same problem you had in your photo

Solved it with the 'Birmingham screwdriver' approach 

[terry paget]

Here's the pic

[Doctor Gollum]

Pop goes the block

[johnnydog]

Here's the pic

Just as a bit of reassurance whilst you are heaving at the shock lower sleeve - I must say your car looks quite clean and tidy / rust free underneath......

Personally, for the effort it takes, I would remove the shock and replace the sleeve in the bush on the bench. The angle of the shock whilst in position on the car will make it a bit more awkward.
The fact that the sleeve has come away from the bush will, in my opinion not adversely be a problem as the sleeve is clamped tight when bolted up, and if the sleeve is a tight fit to get back in the bush, then you should be ok.

[TheBoy]

Is that track rod bent?

[Entwood]

Is that track rod bent?

Looks a bit of a "curve" to me   as well ...   from the marks on the lower suspension arm I'll guess it was jacked on a block of wood there that slipped "up and round" and hit the track rod ... but at least no-one was under the car .... I hope

[terry paget]

Quite right, track control rod bent. try to protect  the ironmongery with blocks of wood on the jack, then they get in th wrong palce and jammed between fragile bits. Bother. Spent today preparing and fitting a spare track control rod. They tend to rust solid and need heat to free them.

[terry paget]

Here's the pic

Just as a bit of reassurance whilst you are heaving at the shock lower sleeve - I must say your car looks quite clean and tidy / rust free underneath......

Personally, for the effort it takes, I would remove the shock and replace the sleeve in the bush on the bench. The angle of the shock whilst in position on the car will make it a bit more awkward.
The fact that the sleeve has come away from the bush will, in my opinion not adversely be a problem as the sleeve is clamped tight when bolted up, and if the sleeve is a tight fit to get back in the bush, then you should be ok.

Coming to the same conclusion myself. I have never removed a rear shock on an Omega estate, but it looks like - peel back carpets, find the upper mounting, undo the bolt and extract shock downwards. Sound right?

[Nick W]

Quite right, track control rod bent. try to protect  the ironmongery with blocks of wood on the jack, then they get in the wrong place and jammed between fragile bits. Bother. Spent today preparing and fitting a spare track control rod. They tend to rust solid and need heat to free them.

Adding wooden blocks between the car and a trolley jack is just asking for trouble.


Make yourself one of these that fits into the cup of the jack:





That's a scrap piece of decking made 'round' on the belt sander with a bit of sheet rubber glued to it. If you have some hardwood, then it will last longer.

[terry paget]

Quite right, track control rod bent. try to protect  the ironmongery with blocks of wood on the jack, then they get in the wrong place and jammed between fragile bits. Bother. Spent today preparing and fitting a spare track control rod. They tend to rust solid and need heat to free them.

Adding wooden blocks between the car and a trolley jack is just asking for trouble.


Make yourself one of these that fits into the cup of the jack:





That's a scrap piece of decking made 'round' on the belt sander with a bit of sheet rubber glued to it. If you have some hardwood, then it will last longer.

Thanks Nick, you're quite right as I have recently demonstrated. I shall make one of you wooden discs, such an obvious solution.

[johnnydog]

Here's the pic

Just as a bit of reassurance whilst you are heaving at the shock lower sleeve - I must say your car looks quite clean and tidy / rust free underneath......

Personally, for the effort it takes, I would remove the shock and replace the sleeve in the bush on the bench. The angle of the shock whilst in position on the car will make it a bit more awkward.
The fact that the sleeve has come away from the bush will, in my opinion not adversely be a problem as the sleeve is clamped tight when bolted up, and if the sleeve is a tight fit to get back in the bush, then you should be ok.

Coming to the same conclusion myself. I have never removed a rear shock on an Omega estate, but it looks like - peel back carpets, find the upper mounting, undo the bolt and extract shock downwards. Sound right?

Yes, there's a little more to remove to take estate shocks off an estate - whereas the saloon is basically removing the rubber domed cover in the boot, on the estate you have to take out the boot carpet by undoing the umpteen plastic retaining clips, and then you will find a couple of metal covers held on by self tappers. They have remains of sealant round them, so they just need easing up with a broad screwdriver or small pry bar to release. You will then see the top of the shock, which you remove from the car as you would a saloon, and although access is slightly more restricted, it certainly is an easy job to do.

[aaronjb]

Is the drop-link meant to be banana-shaped, too?

[Nick W]

Is the drop-link meant to be banana-shaped, too?

Yes.
It goes around the tiebar.

[terry paget]

that mount/sleeve is part of the rear shock so you either need to free it off and refit it in a vice or you could try filling a cup with boiling hot water and submerging the shock bush in it and then try slipping it back onto the sleeve maybe with a g clamp.
John.
[/quoteExcellent suggestion, John. I immersed  bush and bottom of shock in a mug of hot water, then applied G clamp and the bush popped in sweet as a nut. No need to remove shock from car after all. Reassembled car, and took for test drive. All is well. Thanks to all for good advice.

[terry paget]

Pic follows

[Entwood]

I know you have access to a pit, for which I am truly jealous, but all your pictures show the car up on a jack with no sign of an axle stand anywhere .....  and you are obviously "under" the car to take the pictures..... and we now know you had a problem with the car moving on your blocks of wood ....

I have lost a friend to a car falling off a jack onto him, and my brother, when a copper, had to attend at least two fatalities due to the same occurrence.

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not work on a car supported only by a jack, it can only lead to trouble ...

[terry paget]

I know you have access to a pit, for which I am truly jealous, but all your pictures show the car up on a jack with no sign of an axle stand anywhere .....  and you are obviously "under" the car to take the pictures..... and we now know you had a problem with the car moving on your blocks of wood ....

I have lost a friend to a car falling off a jack onto him, and my brother, when a copper, had to attend at least two fatalities due to the same occurrence.

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not work on a car supported only by a jack, it can only lead to trouble ...

Point taken. On this particular job I was jacking at the only obvious point for a jack. If doing any work under the car I also put an axle stand beneath the rear suspension, but for photographs I saw no point, as I was never under the car, but in the pit behind the car.

I have seen AA men working on cars supported only by trolley jacks, and commented, only to be told that 'it's a self locking jack, so OK'. Axle stands too can be hazardous, a car on only 4 axle stands is lethal. Wheels are best, I did most of this job with four wheels on the car.

In my first works safety course the instructor said 'You are your own safety officer. Always imagine what might go wrong, and make sure if it does it does not injure you'. I hope I still do that.

John Cleese was discussing on the radio how people worry too much. He commented 'get into a car driven by a man who never worries, you will soon appreciate your mistake'.
 

[robson]

If I have a wheel off this also goes under the car with all the other precautions.

[robson]

That jack wheel looks very close to the edge of the pit.

[terry paget]

Quite right, track control rod bent. try to protect  the ironmongery with blocks of wood on the jack, then they get in the wrong place and jammed between fragile bits. Bother. Spent today preparing and fitting a spare track control rod. They tend to rust solid and need heat to free them.

Adding wooden blocks between the car and a trolley jack is just asking for trouble.


Make yourself one of these that fits into the cup of the jack:





That's a scrap piece of decking made 'round' on the belt sander with a bit of sheet rubber glued to it. If you have some hardwood, then it will last longer.

Quite right, track control rod bent. try to protect  the ironmongery with blocks of wood on the jack, then they get in the wrong place and jammed between fragile bits. Bother. Spent today preparing and fitting a spare track control rod. They tend to rust solid and need heat to free them.

Adding wooden blocks between the car and a trolley jack is just asking for trouble.


Make yourself one of these that fits into the cup of the jack:





That's a scrap piece of decking made 'round' on the belt sander with a bit of sheet rubber glued to it. If you have some hardwood, then it will last longer.

Thanks again gentlemen, I have learned a lot on this exercise. I shall bend no more tie rods with ill placed scraps of wood; here is my first jack saddle pad.