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[Bigron]

I expect to have hot coals heaped on my head for admitting this, but in desperation to stem my coolant leak, I used the product.
When the stream of abuse subsides, I have a question please gents: berore I replace the radiator, would it be a good idea to drain and fill the old radiator several times, running it up to temperature between fills?
My aim is to remove any residual K-Seal and any other debris from the block which would likely then go on to contaminate the new radiator.
Also, to limit any possible damage done  to my heater matrixby the K-Seal, I kept the climate control firmly on "LO" all the time, which if I understand the working of the HBV, would have kept coolant flow through the matrix to zero?

Ron.

[tunnie]

You are probably best manually flushing each area, the rad will always contain bits now and just push that in.

Take rad out, disconnect heater matrix pipes and manually flush the heater matrix so it runs clear. Do this with engine/coolant as well, with rad out, hose pipe in the coolant bottle and everywhere else.

[Bigron]

Thanks Tunnie. Wasn't the matrix safe, then, with the cimate control set to "LO"? I was hoping that nothing would circulate through it on cold.

Ron.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

If you've had the heater turned off since installing it you might get away with it. But yes, it would be a good idea to do plenty of flushing to get most of it out. Once you think you've flushed it out, turn the heater to high and flush it some more in case some got into the matrix.
I was thinking about your top hose. Theres no need to cut it off. Just disconnect it at the engine end, and then take it out complete with the old rad.
Then, if you tap all around that "stuff" you used, it might crack and fall off, so your left with a useable top hose.
Worh a try I think. 

[Bigron]

Thanks Albs, that was my hope and prayer! I'll start the draining/flushing process right away, if I can get my son underneath to locate the drain cock.
That bodge used genuine Araldite, both the tubed stuff and the two-part solid that you work with your fingers, so it set and stuck like sh*t to a blanket, but it may be brittle enough when the radiator is out to take a Birmingham screwdriver to it!
Despite its obvious tenacity, it still didn't stop my leak, hence the damage it did to my pension for a new radiator.....

Ron.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

The drain plug is on the bottom of the rad n/s. Its red so should be easy to locate. It has a slot for a screwdriver, but its often easier to use molegrips or pliers to turn it.

[Webby the Bear]

Not wanting to sound bad BR but I once put kseal in my mums Fusion and the amount of shit that came up in the header tank was awful. Luckily had to replace it as it got a crack in it so now she's got a nice clean header tank.

I haven't changed water pump on it so god knows if it's caked that up also.

On the plus side it did work. But as I'm sure you'll be told.... fix the actual issue 👍

[TheBoy]

Its going to need extensive flushing, and hopefully you'll get away with it.  The heater might not be as effective as before, but that is a difficult job to replace that matrix without cutting the dash to bits.


And I bet it hasn't helped at all. I've never known it to fix anything.

[Bigron]

It helped wonderfully, TB - I got afan cowl nicely decorated in copper flakes - but that still didn't show me where it was leaking from and nor did UV tracer dye.
However, the K-Seal appears to have remained in suspension and the temperature gauge gives standard readings (85-92 degrees) so I'm hoping all is well. If it is a little blocked, my new radiator will cure that.
I will flush the present one repeatedly because I don't want anything nasty to carry over to the new radiator and only open the HBV when I am satisfied that it's as clean as I can get it.
All comments and advice very much appreciated, thanks to all. 

Ron.