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[Andy H]

Last time I fitted poly bushes (to my Elite) I changed the rear bushes and balljoints as well so I removed the wishbones from the car first.

I think I have seen reports of front bush replacement being possible with the wishbone still attached to the car. 

Is my memory playing tricks? and if it is possible is it actually a method that one would choose to repeat ?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

A bit more awkward than doing them on the bench, but perfectly possible. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Best done on a ramp/lift for access purposes 

[Nick W]

I made some tooling the removes the front bushes using two spanners.
But I wouldn't even consider doing them on the car for three reasons:


1. Access is shit
2. Replacing the front bushes is a waste of time and parts unless you do the rear ones at the same time.
3. Its only two more bolts(3 if you have an Elite) to remove the wishbone and do the job on the bench

[Mr Gav]

I did mine while it was still attached to the car, bit of a faff but not too bad.

If you take the wishbone off then realistically you will need to get the four wheel alignment done whereas if you only remove the front bolt you won`t need to get it done.

That alone makes it worth the hassle.

[Andy H]

I did mine while it was still attached to the car, bit of a faff but not too bad.

If you take the wishbone off then realistically you will need to get the four wheel alignment done whereas if you only remove the front bolt you won`t need to get it done.

That alone makes it worth the hassle.

3 different answers

If it doesn't work for me then there is no great penalty so I will give it a go

[Sir Tigger KC]

Yes I did mine this way.

If you think the rear bushes and ball joint are OK then it is worth it to save having to get it realigned and dropping the rear bush bolt into the cross member! 

[LC0112G]

Yes I did mine this way.

If you think the rear bushes and ball joint are OK then it is worth it to save having to get it realigned and dropping the rear bush bolt into the cross member! 

Shut it you. I resemble that remark. Still not got it out.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes, I have done this on a few if the other components are all ok.

Its a case of removing the front bolt and then wedging the wishbone such that the front bush is visible below the sub frame.

Then cut/drill the bush such that you can either get a hacksaw blade in or a reciprocating saw and saw through the steel of the bush (only, not the wishbone), do this towards the main frame/weld of the wishbone as there is much more strength in case you go slightly to far.

The cut releases the tension and the bush just knocks out.

[biggriffin]

Yes, I have done this on a few if the other components are all ok.

Its a case of removing the front bolt and then wedging the wishbone such that the front bush is visible below the sub frame.

Then cut/drill the bush such that you can either get a hacksaw blade in or a reciprocating saw and saw through the steel of the bush (only, not the wishbone), do this towards the main frame/weld of the wishbone as there is much more strength in case you go slightly to far.

The cut releases the tension and the bush just knocks out.

. 
Beat me to it.

This way.  ^^^^^^^^^

[Kevin Wood]

I did mine while it was still attached to the car, bit of a faff but not too bad.

If you take the wishbone off then realistically you will need to get the four wheel alignment done whereas if you only remove the front bolt you won`t need to get it done.

That alone makes it worth the hassle.

Not really. Alignment will remain unchanged unless you actually change the wishbone for a different one or loosen the camber or toe adjustments.

[Doctor Gollum]

I did mine while it was still attached to the car, bit of a faff but not too bad.

If you take the wishbone off then realistically you will need to get the four wheel alignment done whereas if you only remove the front bolt you won`t need to get it done.

That alone makes it worth the hassle.

Not really. Alignment will remain unchanged unless you actually change the wishbone for a different one or loosen the camber or toe adjustments.

Equally, swapping the balljoint will kill the geometry.

[Kevin Wood]

Equally, swapping the balljoint will kill the geometry.

Depends how accurately it's made. I've certainly got away with it in the past where it's made no difference. There's less margin for a significant error in a little casting as opposed to a pressed steel wishbone a foot long. The trick is to find a tyre depot who charge per adjustment made.

[Kevin Wood]

.. unless you're talking about the track rod end, in which case, yes.

[Doctor Gollum]

There's typically 3-5mm slop at each ball joint bolt... Certainly enough to skew the track and camber

[YZ250]

Yes, I have done this on a few if the other components are all ok.

Its a case of removing the front bolt and then wedging the wishbone such that the front bush is visible below the sub frame.
..........

Yep, as above. I wedged a bit of timber in there to keep the bush clear of the fixing point. Wasn't a bad job, considering I did it on the drive.