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[grifter]

While pulling up to my drive yesterday i knocked it into neutral and the engine went splat. Never had that, i then reversed into drive and while doing so it stuttered and nearly stalled again. Also when at my folks i went to start and it just churned and churned and never started. I then turned key off then back to starting and it went. It did do this a couple of weeks ago but thought cause i had been lying fora while and in the cold. Seems there is a problem developing, what can i check, is this a known problem? I seen flashing spanner while trying to start it.

Currently have the p0150 or whatever it is code for O2 sensor, which is going to get looked at soon and exhaust change. It's drive by wire 2.6 v6. Done pedal check, seems only O2 sensor one and no others.

Update: just read its likey crank sensor, much are they from vx and does anyone have part number? Now i think on it i remember reading about this a wee while ago.

[Marks DTM Calib]

p0150 relates to the mixture being out, the symptoms you have also tend to point towards a potentially failing MAF.

Can you read the live values for air flow and the learnt values for mixture?

Crank sensor should be showing a code if its an issue.

[Bigron]

I bought this for my 2.6 back in  February last year; not sure if they still have stock, but it was a steal at £11.80!

Vauxhall Omega 2.6, 3.0, 3.2 Crankshaft Sensor 90540743 New
Item Number  181472148652

Payment To:   Leader Specialist Components Ltd   

Seller's ID:      leadercomponentsltd

Seller's Email:   ebay@leadercomponents.com

Albs kindly fitted it for me last April-ish and (tempting fate?) it has been perfect.

Ron.

[grifter]

p0150 relates to the mixture being out, the symptoms you have also tend to point towards a potentially failing MAF.

Can you read the live values for air flow and the learnt values for mixture?

Crank sensor should be showing a code if its an issue.

If it only requires a digy meter yes, is there a guide to do this?

[terry paget]

I bought this for my 2.6 back in  February last year; not sure if they still have stock, but it was a steal at £11.80!

Vauxhall Omega 2.6, 3.0, 3.2 Crankshaft Sensor 90540743 New
Item Number  181472148652

Payment To:   Leader Specialist Components Ltd   

Seller's ID:      leadercomponentsltd

Seller's Email:   ebay@leadercomponents.com

Albs kindly fitted it for me last April-ish and (tempting fate?) it has been perfect.

Ron.

I remember that. I bought one too, on your recommendation. I thought later you planned to replace it with a genuine Vauxhall crank sensor, and said you were going to. So it's a still working perfectly! That's good news. I remember six years ago I had a crank sensor fail on my 3.2, and bought a cheap replacement from e-bay. It's still running well.

I have the impression that on the 2.5s it is vital to buy genuine Vx crank sensors, and even then you need to get the right one - Siemens or Bosch.

[Bigron]

You are right, Terry, I WAS going to buy a posh one, but as it is still working fine.....
Now, don't let Sod's Law hear that!

Maybe you can remember the comments on here regarding a common failure mechanism? My poor memory thinks that it had something to do with the connector rather than the sensor itself, and/or temperature issues due to proximity to the exhaust?

Ron.

[grifter]

Would anyone know the part number for the crank sensor as there is apparently a number of different versions? Could I tell from chassis number or something like?

[Doctor Gollum]

2.6/3.2 should all be the same... Plug is easy enough to check, being at the top and all.

[grifter]

2.6/3.2 should all be the same... Plug is easy enough to check, being at the top and all.

Is it not buried down in the bay somewhere? Not seeing it after having a look top down there. A bit concerned it's not showing crank sensor code as mentioned by user fuse 19 above. I tried starting it there, not been run for about 3 weeks, and it ran for 2 secs then just stopped dead with flashing spanner light. Started up and ran ok afterwards tho.

[Doctor Gollum]

Plug at back of cable tray next to multiram solenoid 

[BazaJT]

Bought a genuine one[from main stealer]just over 2yrs ago and £60 ish seems to ring a bell.The sensor enters the engine down by the oil filter-one torx bolt[an 8?] holds it in,then as DG says electrical plug is behind right hand[UK passenger side]head near multi ram solenoid.

[VXL V6]

In my experience the crank sensor DTC rarely gets raised  on a 2.6 or 3.2. Never seen it on any of mine and had two crank sensor failures.

[grifter]

In my experience the crank sensor DTC rarely gets raised  on a 2.6 or 3.2. Never seen it on any of mine and had two crank sensor failures.

What is dtc?

[tunnie]

In my experience the crank sensor DTC rarely gets raised  on a 2.6 or 3.2. Never seen it on any of mine and had two crank sensor failures.

What is dtc?

Fault Code. 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

If Fuse 19 is advising MAF, then I would be looking there before anywhere else. Unplug the MAF and see if the symptoms change.

[grifter]

If Fuse 19 is advising MAF, then I would be looking there before anywhere else. Unplug the MAF and see if the symptoms change.

Is there a guide for doing this?

Can you read the live values for air flow and the learnt values for mixture?

[Doctor Gollum]

If by a guide you mean, "unplug it and see if anything changes..." then yes, there's a guide

[grifter]

If by a guide you mean, "unplug it and see if anything changes..." then yes, there's a guide

No, how to actually change it lol ! I found it anyway but cheers

Got to take scuttle off again bummer, is there anything on this car that doesn't require that bloody scuttle removed?

[Nick W]

If by a guide you mean, "unplug it and see if anything changes..." then yes, there's a guide

No, how to actually change it lol ! I found it anyway but cheers

Got to take scuttle off again bummer, is there anything on this car that doesn't require that bloody scuttle removed?

?
The MAF is attached to the air filter housing, behind the drivers headlight.

[deviator]

I don't mean to be rude, but if you don't know what a MAF looks like or where it is, I'd probably get some help.

Anyway, as well as the above suggestions, look for split pipes (air to plenum) and split vacuum pipe end. Also, it is worth checking the throttle body to see if it's gunked up.

[grifter]

I don't mean to be rude, but if you don't know what a MAF looks like or where it is, I'd probably get some help.

Anyway, as well as the above suggestions, look for split pipes (air to plenum) and split vacuum pipe end. Also, it is worth checking the throttle body to see if it's gunked up.

It's no prblem i know where it is. I just put that all back together last year after doing timing belt. Everything looks fine but will check agsin. If i dont see anything obvious what is next step with maf?

[Nick W]

I don't mean to be rude, but if you don't know what a MAF looks like or where it is, I'd probably get some help.

Anyway, as well as the above suggestions, look for split pipes (air to plenum) and split vacuum pipe end. Also, it is worth checking the throttle body to see if it's gunked up.

It's no prblem i know where it is. I just put that all back together last year after doing timing belt. Everything looks fine but will check agsin. If i dont see anything obvious what is next step with maf?

if you had the tech, tools and experience you could examine how well it is functioning.


As you don't have those, disconnect the electrical connector on the MAF, and drive the car. This will put the EML on, but if the actual problem is no longer present then buying a quality new MAF is your next step.


But you're already breaking the first rule of diagnosis by not going back over the work you did before the fault.

[grifter]

I don't mean to be rude, but if you don't know what a MAF looks like or where it is, I'd probably get some help.

Anyway, as well as the above suggestions, look for split pipes (air to plenum) and split vacuum pipe end. Also, it is worth checking the throttle body to see if it's gunked up.

It's no prblem i know where it is. I just put that all back together last year after doing timing belt. Everything looks fine but will check agsin. If i dont see anything obvious what is next step with maf?

if you had the tech, tools and experience you could examine how well it is functioning.


As you don't have those, disconnect the electrical connector on the MAF, and drive the car. This will put the EML on, but if the actual problem is no longer present then buying a quality new MAF is your next step.


But you're already breaking the first rule of diagnosis by not going back over the work you did before the fault.

If you mean the timing belt work, that was done about a year ago and have checked this area multiple times, and once more tonight.

Going by this advice I unplugged the maf multi plug (the one under the left air intake bagpipe thing right?) and the car struggled to start and when it did the gearbox seemed to lock into a high gear and it wouldn't move. So I guess that didn't work either. I then plugged it back in and the car ran fine.

I have a friendly contact in the AA who has said that he can check it. I don't know if this will give a diagnosis or just codes, but it won't hurt, my 2nd option is a guy who does tech2 near Glasgow. I will take it there and see what if anything they can find as this is doing my brain in now.

[Doctor Gollum]

Presumably the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is still connected to the bottom of the throttle body?

[grifter]

Presumably the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line is still connected to the bottom of the throttle body?

That is the pipe that comes along the middle of the banks and plugs up the way into the body, if so yes I've checked all the vac lines all around there and on the multi-ram bits as well.

[grifter]

The plug that goes onto the maf (i think) was broke, i knew about this but it still slotted it quite firmly, is now tie wrapped tight into the plug & loanbehold the light on dash (eml) is now out!

[grifter]

The plug that goes onto the maf (i think) was broke, i knew about this but it still slotted it quite firmly, is now tie wrapped tight into the plug & loanbehold the light on dash (eml) is now out!

Nope I had the plug off the throttle sensor I think so no wonder it wasn't working. Anyway the fault cleared - for a while - now it is back on. I will take off the MAF plug this time and see what happens.