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[cipher]

Is it possible to fit the Bose system to a car that doesn't have it fitted?

I know that I need the amp/tray and the wiring loom.

But if so, where does the wiring loom start (I know it ends in the boot), and what is it connected to.

What differs (Speaker wise)? are the door speakers altered?

Just fancy a challenge.

Many thanks.

[tunnie]

it can be done, you will need a new headunit (forget the number) and the bose amp and parcel shelf speakers. Not sure if the door speakers are changed.

Peronsally i would put a new headunit in there, and get an Active Sub in the boot. Makes a huge differnce as the standard omega speakers are excellent just lack punch.

[sounds2k]

having looked and traced the wiring on my old omega, the wiring loom seems to run from the back of the head unit to a connector under the driver's side footwell kick panel, from there it goes to the tray under the parcel shelf and is wired into a multi-way plug - not sure if there are any other joins between the two. A return loom (which connects to the same multi-way plug) then runs from the amp back to the normal speakers.

From what I remember, the multi-way plug also provides power to the amp and outputs to the two "subs" (bass drivers mounted on the parcel shelf) as well. So I think you'd be looking at replacing the existing wiring loom from the driver's footwell kick panel to the amp and then back to the speakers. I guess the power is sourced from footwell connector too. You also need to have the proper bose headunit, which outputs the signals at line level (700mV) too - the pre-facelift ones say "bose" on the cassette loading flap, post-facelift ... ermm well mine says "bose" on the GID when the head unit is switched off - don't remember seeing any other identifying marks on it otherwise.

There should also be the boot-mounted CD changer - fitted where the first aid kit goes - the wiring may already be present for that (a small multi-way connector plug, about 12 pins?). I believe you need a code for the radio and a seperate one for the CD changer.

Not entirely sure about the speakers, but I seem to (also) remember that when I took the front door panels off to remove the check straps that the speakers did say "bose" on them - so perhaps they are non-standard too? Obviously you'd need the rear "subs" ...
Methinks you'll be stripping out and refitting a lot of interior trim for this one!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yep, you need the loom from the drivers side footwell to the bose amp. Its a seperate loom which only serves the Bose setup so pretty easy to pop out.

To be frank....its probably as easy (and cheap) to buy a 4 channel amp and a small sub.

[sounds2k]

... To be frank....its probably as easy (and cheap) to buy a 4 channel amp and a small sub.

yep, and that way you could also have mp3 capability which you won't get with the bose setup ... plus the small sub will probably go a lot lower than the bose speakers do as well (albeit using more boot space)

[STMO123]

You'll shake all your sensors loose and your exhaust will fall off

[tunnie]

... To be frank....its probably as easy (and cheap) to buy a 4 channel amp and a small sub.

yep, and that way you could also have mp3 capability which you won't get with the bose setup ... plus the small sub will probably go a lot lower than the bose speakers do as well (albeit using more boot space)

Agreed... see my thread in ICE Chat 'bose catera'

I highly recommend a new headunit, Alpine is good... also put an Active Sub in the boot. The Vibe CR10 Active is fantastic! Really punches out the bass. When driving along it feels like someone is punching the back of my seat!

[cipher]

I allready have an MP3 headunit, andf from what I can see, the BOSE amp uses a line level out from the Headunit. My Head unit has a line level out.

I know that there is a lot to change, but I have a small baby, so have a large pram in teh boot most of the time. And despite the boot being the size of a small nation, it is still full, thus leaving me no room for a sub. Hence why I sold it.

So am looking at the Bose setup, to give a bit more to the sound, and keeping things standard.

One other question; Are the door speakers different in the Bose setup, or are they the same as the standard ones. If they are different, does anyone know what rating the uprated ones are, as it may be easier to source an aftermarket alternative.

[sounds2k]

there may be some level matching required - from what I remember most head units' outputs are 2 or 4V (ie 2000 or 4000mV respectively), the outputs from a bose headunit are 700mV (0.7V), other than that I guess it'd work (in theory)

TBH that's what I was thinking of doing to the old omega before I sold it ... a previous owner had replaced the head unit with a Kenwood one, then disconnected the plug from the bose amp, removed the amp and bodged the wiring plug so as to connect the speaker inputs (ie, head unit outputs) to the speaker outputs. Worked OK - the speakers on the parcel shelf were outputting bass - just not a lot without the bose amp giving them a boost.

I took the easy route and bought a facelift model instead with the bose setup still fitted - but I have to say that the ability to play mp3's would be nice. The existing unit does have sat nav, but I've got tomtom mobile which is better ... maybe someday I'll change that headunit ...  

[cipher]

I dont usually give up, provided I can get the bits and the info I need, I will get this working.

Just need some help with the information about the system.

[cipher]

Right....

I have found out that the Bose system uses the standard Door speakers.

So, I need:

1x Bose Amp
1x Bose amp tray
1x Bose wiring loom
2x Rear shelf speakers
2x Rear shelf speaker grilles
2x Rear shelf speaker gauds (for underneath the shelf)

Bit of a list, and a lot of work.

Should hopefully be worth it though.

Maybe a How2......

[Liam]

If you're not gonna use the bose head unit I wouldn't bother using the bose amp either.  Just get a normal 4 channel amp and maybe a separate sub amp.  That will be much easier to find (and probably cheaper too) and much easier to wire - no input level problems or cutting and shutting of proprietry multiplugs.  By all means mount it in a bose tray (or knock something up yourself) and put subs where they are in the bose setup.  Then just wire up with standard audio leads from the head unit to the amps, then to the speakers.

I was gonna do this myself (even though I already have the bose) to get MP3 capability, but in the end the cheapest solution was to get a 60GB iPod with an FM transmitter.  175 quid and bob's your uncle.  Not only do I have an iPod but I can listen to all my music in my car on the standard bose system and no need to bother writing millions of MP3 cds and filling the car with them!

Liam

[cipher]

The line level input volatge of the bose amp is 0.7v so I need to get the 2.5v from my head unit down to .7.

Will make a cicuit to do this and then all should be go

[Liam]

Well OK suit yourself  And remember your circuit has to do this with a flat frequency response over the audio range.

Still think it would be easier/cheaper to just not use the bose amp at all!  It doesn't do anything that special.

Liam

[nixoro]

Cipher not sure if you have seen these on Ebay

Item Number 200015877627 rear blind inc speaker covers

Item Number 200015884723 Bose Amp

May help towards your list they finish today  

Complete Bose Kit @ £149 7 days still to run.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Omega-In-Car-Bose-Sound-System-shelf-blind_W0QQitemZ230017736232QQihZ013QQcategoryZ10404QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem