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[JamesV6CDX]

Ok, today we had a really good start on my Project 1 - the GLS with the seized engine.

Began stripping the components necessary for engine removal, off came the Exhaust downpipe and manifold, aux belt, injector rail, inlet manifold, PAS pump, alternator, RAD, coolant hoses, all the electrics - a little bit of tweaking and the engine will be ready to lift out.

Now that all the ancilliaries are removed it's clear to see why the car won't run.

There are 3 rather large holes in the engine block (!) underneith the inlet manifold - big enough that you can poke your hand in and touch the crankshaft!!! Would explain why we found half a bearing shell in the engine bay.

Now we've got to strip down the engine in the donor car to the same level, and lift them both out. With it stripped, accessibility is much better than we imagined it would be, so we've decided to support the engine on a crane and lift it out, leaving the Gearbox in-situ.

The donor engine will then be put on an engine crane, and be treated to new piston rings, a new head gasket, sump gasket, rocker gasket etc - plus camshaft seals, crankshaft seals - basically a meduim overhaul.

Also need to drill out (yes drill out!) the crankcase oil breather solid metal pipe on the Donor engine, it's SOLID with crud, can't even hit it out with a hammer and sturdy screwdriver. Probably why that engine had bad emissions....

I'll post up a few pics when I get home tomorrow.... You'll love to see the holes in the block

More progress reports to follow..........

[RonaldMcBurger]

Drill what exactly James? Which solid metal pipe are you referring to? Is it the small one on the vent housing?

[JamesV6CDX]

Nope, the pipe that goes from the block, up to the flametrap. Had to do the same on my last R reg GLS.

It's solid!!

[RonaldMcBurger]

Oh, a 2.0 then. Not something I deal with mate.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Why a bottom end re-build......

I would whip the heads off and inspect the bores for signs of wear.....its normaly a good sign of the state of the engine (note numebr one bore tends to wear on 2.0).

Only consider a bottom end re-build if absolutely neccassary as you can do more harm than good if your not careful, plus they tend to do high mileage with very few problems. Its much better to concentrate on getting the top end good i.e. exhaust manifold/studs, clean the followers and new stem seals etc.

Remember, its a project car

For a headgasket set condsider this ebay seller, he does the bolts to and if he doesn't have the kit listed, give him a call.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/THE-GASKET-SHOP

Have had a coulple of V6 kits off him and they have been excellent.

[Markie]

holes!!! astonishing - wonder what has caused them  

Good read James, looking forward to the pics  

[Marks DTM Calib]

I suspect that the conrods are bent following oiling failure

[Martin_1962]

Bottom end rebuilds, well I am in two minds on this, if you are planning on running it for a while and the body is good it may be worth fitting new shells, but if the bores are worn price up a rebore, as it can be dangerous reringing a worn engine due to bore wear at the top, new rings can catch, if there is a lip and no blow through be very careful.

That said I have done two bottom end rebuilds on the 1600 Rootes push rod lump, both due to wear and tear, both had done stupid mileages. Both had been driven hard. Neither were brilliant before I did them!

[JamesV6CDX]

Hey thanks for all the comments.

Mark - the reason I was considering bottom end work is just because I know the donor engine was puffing a bit (not clouds) of blue smoke..

Although I guess this could be caused by other things such as the breathers, (god knows what they are like) or head wear. I've never done valve guides or stem seals - what are they like to do?

In a way I'd rather not touch the bottom end, if you don't think this is causing the bit of oil burning.

On a scale of 1-10, how likely is it the rings are causing the bit of blue puffing?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Smoke.....if its not breathing and is worse on start-up and following de-acceleration then its probably stem seals, easier to do but you need a valve spring compressor, the guides shoudln't need replacing.

Its very unlikely to be the rings (so probabaly a 2), more likely to be bore wear on no1 cylinder......this is a re-bore job and it would be easier to source a good bottom end (pretty cheap)

As said, pop the head off and have a look at it, bore wear can be seen easily with the pistons all half way down the bores.

[JamesV6CDX]

cheers Mark

I'll take the head off, and take some clear high-res pics for you to look at for me

[JamesV6CDX]

Right,

Just in case anyone thinks I've forgotton or given up with this project - some more progress has been made yesterday!

I have worked hard today, and now have the engine completely disconnected from the project car. It's seperated from the gearbox and everything else, and the cylinder head is off, cleaned and all reconditioned, ready to go on the donor engine block. It almost looks as good as AllenM's new heads!!

This weekend I have an engine crane on loan, so I'm hoping to break the back of the whole project by Monday. (I have 2 days off). So the sequence of jobs this weekend will be as such:

1) Crane the broken engine block out of the project car.

2) Strip down all the ancilliaries etc on the donor engine and remove the head, so I'm just left with the  
bottom end in place.

3) Remove the bottom end from the donor car.

4) Crane the bottom end from the donor car into the project car and mate it with the Auto gearbox (I am using the torque converter from the project car, because it's done 80k miles less than the donor car...

5) Re-fit  the reconditioned cylinder head and camshafts into the project car, set valve timing and fit timing belt kit and water pump,  fit the inlet/exhaust manifolds, fit exhaust, and re-assemble all the ancilliary components, hoses, electrics, etc.

6) Oil and filter change, and general service/tweaking!

While I've had the components out of the car, I've paid some special attention to some important factors - being a 2.0 - specifically the breathers. I've done a lot of work ensuring that all the breather system is as clear as a whistle (I had to drill out part of it, it was so blocked..). The Idle Control Valve I have thoroughly cleaned out and lubed, and same with the throttle body/butterfly, etc, - you can see your face in it!

This is going to be a really thorough job, and apart from time, all it's cost me, is £100 for the project car (It really is immaculate, with 80k on the clock and full MOT), £7 for some carb cleaner and some wet and dry... approx £30 for the gaskets, and I'm guessing £50 for a belt kit on this one. So approximately, less than £190 all in!

My camera is charging as we type, so I'll be sure to post up a thread with some pics when it's all done!! I can't remember who it was on here with a 2.0 who was interested in head removal/refitting, but whoever you are, I'll make sure there are lots of pictures of this process for you (It's really simple!)

This car will be so so nice when it's done, it will be one of the nicest and cleanest examples of a pre-facelift omega's I've ever seen, and I really want to keep it myself, however it's not a v6, so unfortunately I will probably have to reluctantly part with it.

Whoever gets this is going to end up with an absolutely cracking car!

Cheers
James

[TheBoy]

Sounds good, but I bet you'll be knackered come Tuesday

[JamesV6CDX]

I'm knackered today!!

Engines are swapped over today, did it in the piddling rain!!

Just need to get the head on and build it all up now!!!

I need a  [smiley=beer.gif]

[TheBoy]

I'm knackered today!!

Engines are swapped over today, did it in the piddling rain!!

Just need to get the head on and build it all up now!!!

I need a  [smiley=beer.gif]

Rain? I was in Witney most of the day fitting UPS's and network switches. Was dry there. Just as well, as I took the Kawasaki....