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Author Topic: clunky steering  (Read 663 times)

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dandor

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clunky steering
« on: 27 October 2014, 20:50:54 »

Hi guys, just lately im having some issues with my car. I feel like I'm constantly having to correct the steering and it doesn't feel as sensitive as it should. Within the last 2 month the car has had all new tyres 2 new lower arms at the front and 2 new track rod ends. Also I can hear and feel a slight clunk through the steering column into the steering wheel at 2 points during the full turning circle from right to left. Is there a common problem that would cause this e.g worn steering idler or does it sound like something more sinister like the steering box. The car tram lines really heavy in ruts although the tyres are not wearing prematurely the car is a facelift 2.2 CD auto. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Dan.
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Temetsy

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #1 on: 27 October 2014, 21:01:30 »

I'd suspect that idler has gone since all other related parts have been changed assuming you got new ball joints as well with new wishbone? :/
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dandor

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #2 on: 27 October 2014, 21:27:11 »

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah the ball joints and bushes were already set into the new wishbones. Really hope it is just the idler. Is it common to have the steering box break on these cars? Or the steering column for that matter? I've had the car for about a year now and I love it. But just lately its causing my bank account to take a beating.lol
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Temetsy

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #3 on: 27 October 2014, 21:39:32 »

I've noticed on my omega that when one place breaks another follows :/ Worn steering idler is very common faul on migys, I'd still check it first. Lift car up and feel for any play on steering. The steering box is not as common as idler but you'll never know untill you find where's the play at :/
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flyer 0712

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #4 on: 27 October 2014, 21:42:09 »

After replacing the wish bones you should have a full geometry set up done otherwise the car will be all over the place...W.I.M. is the place to have it done..there is a write up on here that gives you all of the correct measurements it has to be set at, :y
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chrisgixer

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #5 on: 28 October 2014, 08:52:16 »

Any vertical play in the idler and it needs changing.

Has the handling degraded since fitting new wishbones? And set up is needed as said.

Steering box is a very rare failure imo. And when they do fail, the ones I've seen usually cause a stiff feeling in various forms, through the steering, rather than excess play. Although it can be adjusted but this must be done in the straight ahead opposition, but this rarely fixes major tramlining faults, it's a much more refined level of play than your describing.

Usual causees of tramlining are component play, causing loss of control of the wheel position. Poor set, up usually after wishbone or shock replacement. Tyres or tyre wear.

Also, the rear can cause multiple steering corrections. Bush failure usually. Rear subframe moves around so gives no pulling sensation on the sterring wheel. So if you feel  pulling on the sterring wheel its front end issues at work obviously.
« Last Edit: 28 October 2014, 08:54:50 by chrisgixer »
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chrisgixer

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Re: clunky steering
« Reply #6 on: 28 October 2014, 09:06:26 »

A way to check idler play while driving, is to choose or note the handling on poor road surfaces on one side of the road or the other and see how the car reacts to it.

For instance if you have a poor road surface on the drivers side and the drivers road wheel runs over it, expect no real deflection in the cars path, because the sterring box connection is so solid it won't have any play.
 However if the passenger side road wheel runs over a poor road surface and there is play in the idler, then this will allow the passenger side road wheel to flap around due to the play. It causes a toe in/out variance, so you'll have to adjust the steering to cope.
 Tyre wear will then be similar to a poor toe setting. Hence less dramatic than poor camber setting.

The above assumes all other components, tyre wear, set up and pressures are good though.
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