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Maintenance Guides / wiring in an amp
« on: 13 August 2006, 20:36:17 »
seeing as how we have a few people who have been asking, and seeing as i started mine toninght i though i would pake some piccys and make some notes.
My plan os to fit an alpine amp in place of my bose, in addition to wire up an second amp that will run twox12 subs, i am not after all out power, merely a nicer sounding system that covers a greater range than currently.
First this was to route to power cable through to the back of the car, i have chosen 8 guage cable to do this.
underbonnet first, find a location for the inline 50amp fuse that will be used for the amps:
the fusebox seemed a pretty good place, it's dry and descreet
top off and then pull out the ECU as the fuse will be screwed to this
once i hade marked the backplpate and drilled it
It was a cast of threading the wire from the battery and another wire off to the rear of the car, this is the box with the fuse installed, the holes for the wire to thread through were already there
the put the top back on, make sure everything was in place and then time to move on to the bulkhead.
Hillper had kindly advised me of two routes, one was a grommet by the pollen filter, this one was supposed to be the more difficult of the two, the other was a case of running the cable under the scuttle and across to the drivers side of the bulkhead where there is an unused grommet that is easier to use (auto facelifts, not sure about any of the others)
I choce the harder route ( i like a challenge at times, it was made harder by virtue of the face the airbag gets in the way and the generally isn't a lot of space up behind the dash, so i cheated, i removed the passenger vent, it gave me better access to the correct part of the bulkhead.
When you lift the scuttle and look to the side of the pollen filter housing you will see two big grommets, i went for the lower of the two, this mean thatt he cable came through at an easier height to get at
that was the hardest part over, the remainder took me about 15 mins to do.
Next step is to remove the treadplates along the length of the car and also the reat seat bolster, all of this is so the cable can be threaded through the car
Once youi have removed the covers you will see 4 torx screw in the front and 2 in the rear as well as 1 on the B pillar, to get the covers off you need a flat ended screwdriver to prise them up
the rear bolster is simple, unclip the lower section of the seat, look at the bottom of the bolster and you will see a body coloured tongue, pull it back and slide the bolster out, this will give you access to the wiring loom as it goes into the boot area
then it is a case of fitting it all back together.
one thing to remember, until the power lead is wired into the amp do not connect it to the battery or install the fuse.
More to follow tomorrow
Thanks for Hillper, Laidback and sounds2K for help so far [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
My plan os to fit an alpine amp in place of my bose, in addition to wire up an second amp that will run twox12 subs, i am not after all out power, merely a nicer sounding system that covers a greater range than currently.
First this was to route to power cable through to the back of the car, i have chosen 8 guage cable to do this.
underbonnet first, find a location for the inline 50amp fuse that will be used for the amps:
the fusebox seemed a pretty good place, it's dry and descreet
top off and then pull out the ECU as the fuse will be screwed to this
once i hade marked the backplpate and drilled it
It was a cast of threading the wire from the battery and another wire off to the rear of the car, this is the box with the fuse installed, the holes for the wire to thread through were already there
the put the top back on, make sure everything was in place and then time to move on to the bulkhead.
Hillper had kindly advised me of two routes, one was a grommet by the pollen filter, this one was supposed to be the more difficult of the two, the other was a case of running the cable under the scuttle and across to the drivers side of the bulkhead where there is an unused grommet that is easier to use (auto facelifts, not sure about any of the others)
I choce the harder route ( i like a challenge at times, it was made harder by virtue of the face the airbag gets in the way and the generally isn't a lot of space up behind the dash, so i cheated, i removed the passenger vent, it gave me better access to the correct part of the bulkhead.
When you lift the scuttle and look to the side of the pollen filter housing you will see two big grommets, i went for the lower of the two, this mean thatt he cable came through at an easier height to get at
that was the hardest part over, the remainder took me about 15 mins to do.
Next step is to remove the treadplates along the length of the car and also the reat seat bolster, all of this is so the cable can be threaded through the car
Once youi have removed the covers you will see 4 torx screw in the front and 2 in the rear as well as 1 on the B pillar, to get the covers off you need a flat ended screwdriver to prise them up
the rear bolster is simple, unclip the lower section of the seat, look at the bottom of the bolster and you will see a body coloured tongue, pull it back and slide the bolster out, this will give you access to the wiring loom as it goes into the boot area
then it is a case of fitting it all back together.
one thing to remember, until the power lead is wired into the amp do not connect it to the battery or install the fuse.
More to follow tomorrow
Thanks for Hillper, Laidback and sounds2K for help so far [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
