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Topics - prj

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1
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: Omega B facelift bits
« on: 24 October 2012, 23:16:38 »
1. Mirrors, or more exactly their housings.
2. The plastic bit behind the steering wheel that is responsible for turning off the blinker signal when you turn your steering wheel to the opposite side.
3. Front right lower door light.
4. Auto gearbox selector switch for 2.5 TD engine (X25DT).

Can pay via PayPal, shipping via signed mail isn't expensive either from the UK :)

2
Omega General Help / Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 20 July 2012, 11:14:44 »
I have a problem with rough idle when warm on my Omega.
There are no fault codes stored in the ECU.

The rough idle is best characterized as a strong vibration. It does not hunt at all, there is just strong vibration throughout the car and the engine shakes. Quite sure there is a mechanical problem with the fuel distribution from the pump to one or more cylinders.
Before someone says "that's how diesels work" - no, it used to be fine before :)

Rising the RPM even a tiny bit the problem goes away almost completely, but there is still a feeling that one cylinder is not running quite right.
So it must be an issue with very low injection quantities, as the engine works perfectly when driving.

I am going to take off all the nozzles on Monday and get them checked on a bench, as well as do a compression test, but perhaps someone has experience/cure they can share about this problem.

3
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Remote key coding
« on: 03 May 2012, 14:32:13 »
I have a problem with coding a key to my Omega-B FL.
Tried various tools, including universal locksmith tools and I get the same problem.

I bought the car pass from my dealer in digital form, it came with three codes - key mechanical, radio, immo (I guess "immo" is the security code?).
Now, I can use the "immo" code to log into the immobilizer and code keys.
However, if I go into the anti theft warning system, I can not login using the same code. It just says that the PIN is invalid.

From everything I have read, and from Locksmith experience, the PIN between the anti-theft warning system and the immobilizer should be identical.
It is not the case for me, however.

What could be the problem? Are the ATW control units prone to failure by any chance? Could it be that someone replaced the unit on my car?
And this will probably not answered - but does anyone know if I can open the unit, dump an EEPROM and find the pin in there? I have all the equipment...

4
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:52:33 »
Introduction

I want to give people a little overview of what a "Stage 1" tune is and just describe the general approach to chip tuning.

One of my cars is MY2000 Opel Omega-B 2.5TD, and I will use this one as an example.

What makes these cars a little special, is that the engine is lifted from a BMW. It is the intercooled version of M51D25, slightly detuned.
In return, BMW's using this engine are fitted with GM's AR35 automatic transmissions.
However, Opel in their infinite wisdom used the AR25 box on the diesel and the AR35 on their petrol engines. The 25 and 35 are just torque limits - 250nm and 350nm accordingly.

I bought the car with a blown trans for peanuts, and luckily the only difference between the AR25 and AR35 are uprated internals. So I acquired an AR35, retained the torque converter and bell housing from the AR25 and hey presto, I have a transmission that can handle 350nm. After fixing the boost leaks (the intercooler on this Omega was like swiss cheese) the car can be tuned for more torque and power.

First step was to find the ECU and check how boost is controlled.
The ECU turned out to be in the fusebox under the hood, and just slides out. The connector is a typical JPT-55 used in most Bosch applications of the 90-s (remember, the engine was developed in 1991!), and the control unit itself is a Bosch MSA-11 type or in other words - ancient by even 2000's standards when the car was built. Forget any flashing, only the manual approach will lead to results.
Around the turbo there are no fancy solenoids - the boost is mechanically controlled by a spring to about 1.2-1.3 bar.

Inside the ECU

To open the ECU, a series of tabs must be unbent. The rear ones are a bitch, and it will take a while if you are doing it for the first time.
Once the casing is off, two boards are revealed. These boards are connected together by a flat ribbon cable and can be separated at the back, however there are a bunch of T8 and T20 screws that need to be undone for the ECU to come apart:
  • Four T20's under the ECU
  • Four T8's by the connector of the ECU
  • Two T8's inside the ECU under the cover
Once those are off, the entire assembly slides out.

Splitting the two boards reveals two chips soldered to the top board, marked "1 037 355 974" and "1 037 355 975", which contain the software, that needs to be tuned.
Of course, since they are soldered in, they first have to be de-soldered and sockets soldered in ("socketing the ECU").
Both chips are 27c256, 32kb UV erasable EPROM's and the main processors are 8051 derivatives.

Operation of the MSA-11 ECU

Before doing something inside the ECU one needs to understand why every change is made. The operation and algorithms of the ECU must be understood to reach a good result.
Most diesel ECU-s employ a similar control strategy. All the more modern units have their roots in the old MSA ECU's.

There are three primary inputs and one primary output that are linearized (obviously these are not the only ones):
  • RPM - taken from some sort of trigger wheel, this lets the ECU know how fast the engine is rotating.
  • TPS - driver throttle input, taken from a potentiometer at the throttle pedal.
  • Mass flow - taken from a mass airflow sensor, to let the ECU know how much air is entering the engine.
  • Pump control voltage - this is the primary output, which is used to drive the high pressure pump. It is linearized based on RPM and requested Injection Quantity, so that the ECU knows what voltage it has to supply to the pump to get a certain amount of diesel fuel into a cylinder.
Since boost is controlled mechanically, the only thing the ECU controls is when and how much fuel is delivered, and in simplified terms fuel equals torque in a diesel engine.
The fuel injection quantity (or IQ) is based on the driver pedal input, then limited by the MAF to prevent excessive smoke and also limited by a torque limiter to prevent mechanical failure.

As mentioned before, on the hardware side of things there are two main processors. The first processor calculates the required IQ and the second one takes that IQ and interfaces with the pump.
The chip with the lower software number contains all the calibration data and logic for determining IQ (plus a few other things, like glow plugs etc) and the chip with the higher number has calibrations for controlling the pump, including timing of injection start.

Mapping the MSA-11

Now that we have some theory down, let's get down to business.
I only removed the chip containing the IQ calibrations, because the SOI (start of injection) is pretty decently calibrated from factory, and since I am not going to modify the pump voltage map, I have no need to modify these calibrations (more on that later).

After reading the chip in a programmer, the first step is to find the master table. The master table contains the address references of all the other tables and it is a series of addresses.
It's generally pretty easy to find just flicking through the file with a hex editor, or you can write an automated tool that would look for ten 16 bit addresses in a row...

Anyway, the master table for this file is at 0x74D0:


Now we just have to start looking through all the addresses and as a start find the large 3D maps.

5
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 09 January 2012, 09:47:29 »
I spent some 1on1 time with the Omega's ECU, and documented the process of adding a little bit of power to my car.
I tried to write it so, that it is as easy to read as possible, so even if you are not familiar with everything, you should understand most of it.

You can read the entire thing here:
http://prj-tuning.com/?p=163

I am not sure if I should have posted this to General Chat instead, so if that is more appropriate, please move my post.

6
Omega General Help / Omega 2.5TD 2000MY AR25 Gearbox issues
« on: 10 August 2011, 18:55:14 »
Hello,

I have a 2.5TD with AR25 box.
There is an issue with the box once it warms up. Drives perfectly when cold though.
Fluid/filter change has been done three days ago.

It seems as if there is no fourth gear. If I run the box in "3", it operates as it should.
If I run it in "D" after some town driving, then when switching into fourth - be it from third or second, it goes "out of gear".
Basically when going 50kph (35mph), the car does not accelerate unless you rev it to about 3400 rpm. If you floor it at this point, the acceleration makes me think it's stuck in first.
If I rev it past the limiter, it changes into third gear with a strong jerk, and the box goes into limp mode (3rd gear only).

If I manually select "3", it goes into third gear, and can be driven normally.
There is no issue driving in "D" on the highway, overtaking etc.

Getting the software of the box upgraded, but I doubt that will do anything for me.

Does anyone know what the issue could be? 4th gear worn out? Some seals inside the box being weak and once the oil gets thinner with temperature not holding enough pressure to keep it in gear?
I haven't disassembled an autobox (yet). Friend of mine who did it for a living, said there is a disc (or drum, hard to translate) that wears out on these boxes, which enables fourth gear...

7
Omega General Help / Omega FL 2 button keyfob problem
« on: 18 August 2011, 21:46:32 »
Keyfob stopped working.
I looked inside and noticed that there is probably a small SMD resistor missing.

Since I only have one such keyfob atm, could someone open up theirs and measure the resistor? Or at least take a picture? :)

Here is the picture:


I circled the bit which I think is missing. Someone has repaired this thing before (the power supply connection), perhaps due to that the component came loose. Without that component there is no positive supply going to the board, so it can't work.

I don't want to just bridge the gap, because that might mess stuff up. Looks perfect for a 0603 resistor.

Even if what I wrote seems like chinese to you, but you are comfortable with replacing the battery in your keyfob, please open it, push the board out (press a button from the opposite side when open) and check if you have a bit in that red circle. If you do, please give the numbers off it...

Thank you.

8
Newbie Welcome Area / Hello forum
« on: 08 August 2011, 08:58:35 »
Hi,

Because my 400hp UrS6 is undergoing an engine rebuild and I sold my Celica, I needed a cheap runaround (I'd post pictures, but the rules set are not letting me :()

I got a good offer for a FL Omega with the BMW 2.5 TD engine and autobox, I decided to go for it.
Obviously, since I paid fairly little for the car it's far from perfect, but I am taking care of it, as I do with all my cars :)

In the five days I've owned it:
* ATF change, A/T filter change + gaskets
* Engine oil change, Engine oil filter change
* Changed intercooler, old one was like swiss cheese
* Engine air filter
* Cabin air filter
* Tyres
* Getting the locks serviced and a second key made up. Driver's door lock is missing parts, so getting them from the breakers.
* Scheduled service on wednesday to fix all the issues in the suspension.

Car drives fine, a bit less power than I'm used to, and as I understand the AR25 box does not take kindly to increased torque. Need to look what type of ECU this car has (EDC15? the engine is not common rail) and perhaps slightly increase boost up top.

Coming back to electronics - I need to update the gearbox software as it tends to hunt around a bit more than I'd like sometimes...

That's it for now :)

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