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Messages - berserkerboy

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1
Omega General Help / Re: wet front passenger floor
« on: 30 January 2018, 09:36:19 »
Water has travelled all the way back from the front in my experience. Still think that you have corrosion on the seams within the pollen housing if the bung is clear. My water issue all but disappeared after I painted the rusted areas with bitumen paint. Although car still steamed up over night. I think the noise damping foam holds a serious amount of water..It's busy rusting away the floor ;D

2
So the buzzing noise was the dash brightness adjuster. This morning the problem was back. I turned the ignition and sidelights on. When I adjusted the brightness the buzzing was audible on anything below full. Took the light assembly out and sprayed the rheostat? with contact spray. Also sprayed where I could see behind the beam selector dial. On reassembly fault seems to have cleared. There is no buzzing when I change the brightness. I'm reluctant now to say that the courtesy light problem is fixed,..., but am hoping so. :-\

3
Hopefully, fixed issue. Disconnected battery and charged. When I connected the battery up again things seemed to be back to normal..Phew :y

4
Only way to extinguish the courtesy lights is to remove check control fuse. No 7.
Currently charging battery.

5
Hi folks

Thought I'd give the old girl a cleanup yesterday as she will sell on ebay this Thursday :'(. It was just a damp cloth over all surfaces.

This morning I took her out for a quick spin. Turned on the sidelights, there was a funny buzzing sound from the dash area and the courtesy light came on. Turned lights off.
Stopped car and restarted. No buzzing sound but the courtesy light stays on and the battery is going to run down.

It is possible that the courtesy light had been on all night as the starter was a bit sluggish. Light switch has always been a bit iffy in as much as you have to make sure it is well pushed in. I'm pushing it in a far as I can but the lights are staying on.

Charging my old laptop to see if there are any codes. Just wondering if anyone here has any thoughts?...Other than her being upset that I'm selling her :'(


6
Hi folks. Anyone need the above? £15 delivered RM 1st class.

7
Omega General Help / Re: Where have all the 3.2’s gone?
« on: 30 December 2017, 21:43:46 »
Me too......5 at the last count - admittedly though, two are for breaking.....! ::)

Dammit, that's just greedy.

Ideally I'd like an Elite with the manual box conversion and MV6 suspension.

I suppose the other option would be another CDX with leather and find a 3.2 motor and manual box to put in it, or at least the 3.0 cams.
All leather is at best inconvenient, and the Omega is no different. Uncomfortable when its hot, uncomfortable when its cold.

Best Omega seats, without doubt, are Elite Cloth

When's it hot? :y

8
Omega General Help / Re: Where have all the 3.2’s gone?
« on: 29 December 2017, 09:04:50 »
Mine's for sale on Gumtree and Preloved. £500 but you'll need to come to S Wales for it. Like any old car it has issues but if you are handy with the spanners and a welder it is a nice car. Bought a Mitzy Outlander to tow a caravan. I'll miss the old girl.

9
Thanks for the advice Nick. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the digital equipment. Will see if the camber is miles out tomorrow using my method. I realise it's not ideal by a long shot as the car needs to be on level ground and there is the accuracy of the level to consider. Think the 500 miles will have to be done in the wifes smart car. :-[

10
Unlikely I can get this done before I need to leave. I think my best solution: Rim 470mm diameter. 470mm multiplied by tan 1deg 40 minutes is approx. 13.7mm. So I need to make sure that the top of the rim is this distance from the vertical.  :y.

11
Ah, I understand now. The top bolt is moveable to be able to set the camber. Damn.. Have 500 miles to do over Christmas. What do you think? Toe in was checked at a garage today and is okay. They didn't have the equipment to do camber but the top of my wheels look like they are pointing too much to the centre of the car. If I pull the top of the wheel out as far as I can and nip up the bolts will that be better than doing nothing?

12
Oops, showing my ignorance. How is toe and camber set as there didn't seem to be any leeway when tightening up the 2 big bolts at the bottom of the shock?

13
Suspension is wishbone type. Will replacing the shocks have affected setup? I read on a site that it wouldn't.

14
The wheel bearing needed doing but the rumble was still evident. Pretty sure the culprit is the driver side shock. So badly rusted that the spring is forcing the bottom of the assembly downwards. With enough weight in the car the tyre is touching the shock on cornering. New shocks ordered on Tuesday night from MAPCO, £110 ish delivered, arrived this morning and are now on the car. Will test drive tomorrow and report back.

Anyone replacing the front shock absorbers will find it reasonably straight forward. I suppose I should have tried to produce a maintenance guide with pictures, sorry. Oh, and you must do both at the same time:

I removed the discs for better access to the assembly. You will need spring compressors which are cheap online. Access to the lower drop link bolt is a bit of a pain at the bottom as the light level sensor assembly is in the way, but doable. Be aware that there is usually a spanner accepting area on the inside of the link to stop the ball joint from spinning as you undo it. Mine was 17mm. Release the clip holding the brake pipe to the shock. Pull away the ABS sensor wire from the shock.
Undo the two big bolts at the bottom 18mm. Leave one bolt in place. Unbolt the top nut 24mm using a spanner whilst holding the top of the damper 10 or 11mm. Remove the loose bolt and pull the hub away. The shock can now be dropped out. Put the old shock on the bench and remove the spring. Carefully does it, there is a lot of tension there if they fly off! Put nuts, washers and other parts you need to reuse in order as they come off so you know how they go back.
Reassembly is the reverse. Not sure of the correct torques. I put 65NM on drop links and 90Nm plus 60 degrees on the big bottom bolts. The top bolts I just tightened up tight as I could with a ring spanner. Only problem I had, there are always a few aren't there >:(,  was getting the brake hose support back onto the shock. Had to open up the hole a bit with my dremel.


15
Before randomly changing the Wheel Bearing (which would likely be noisy as well as having play) get a young assistant to put their foot on the brake when you rock the wheel... If the play remains then it’s not the bearing but one of the numerous ball joints in the steering assembly, which is far more likely.   ;)

Edit: Just read that it is a bit rough/noisy so my be the case it needs doing anyway but I’d still be doing the test with the brake applied. All that said, it could easily be more than one component causing the issue.  ::)

Will do.  :y

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