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Topics - V6 CDX-er

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Omega General Help / Where do Omegas rust?

« on: 30 December 2017, 10:50:49 »

As per the thread title chaps. What are the common obvious and hidden areas in which late model F/L Omegas tend to rust?

I've done a forum search and the most recent thread on this topic that I could find was back in 2008, so I wondered if any more problem areas had become apparent?

As my old 2003 CDX was rust free, I'm a bit in the dark about this, although the rear arches and the bottom of the doors seems to be an often quoted area of concern. Anywhere else I need to look out for, especially hard to spot areas?

Also, do a lot of VX dealers still honour the Autobahnstormers trade card, and have the price of parts changed much in the last six years?

In advance, many thanks.

Omega General Help / Where have all the 3.2’s gone?

« on: 28 December 2017, 22:29:13 »

At-up fellas

After a while away I’m back and on the hunt for another Omega, but this time preferably a 3.2 as opposed to a 2.6. The only problem is, where have all the 3.2’s gone? I’ve been looking on here, eBay, Autotrader, etc, but the 3.2’s are like hens teeth.

Answers on a postcard please?

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / A quickie about SAFE mode?

« on: 21 February 2011, 01:37:43 »

I'm guessing that this has been asked a million times before, but I did a quick search and couldn't find the answer.

I have a 'CCR 2006' fitted to my Omega. No radio code present and the head unit is in safe mode.

I've done the thing with holding down AS whilst switching it on to see how many goes there are left of putting the code in, so here's my question....

After holding down AS for number of goes left, it says

"10 _ _ _ _ "

Does this mean that there are ten goes left, or that all ten tries to enter the correct radio code have already been used?

In advance, cheers

Omega General Help / Front lower wishbone fitting.

« on: 04 March 2011, 21:31:30 »

I'm going to go outside into the cold, (again

) and replace my front lower wishbones after I've finished dinner.

I just wondered if any of you chaps had any last minutes tips or advice to kindly offer before I get started? (and not eating yellow snow doesn't count).

Omega General Help / A bit of an odd brake problem.

« on: 24 February 2011, 02:49:42 »

Yet again my Omega continues to amaze with me it's spectacular ways in which to break and fail. Todays failure is no different.

Having replaced all the discs, pads and handbrake shoes, yesterday was the first time that I had driven the car for any distance, (or at least I did before it developed a missfire).

Anyway, above 10mph or so I noticed a rattle coming from the near-side rear corner. It sounded like a tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick, that got faster the quicker I drove. When I came to a stop, the ticking stopped also.

I assumed that one of the dam retaining pins / springs / caps had fallen off the handbrake shoe, and it was this that was rattling around inside the 'drum' part of the rear disc.

So, wheel off, caliper off and disc off and all seemed fine, much to my suprise, untill I noticed that it was dripping brake fluid. The problem is pictured below;

Even though I thought that the brake line was well clear of the suspension arm it seems that it has been rubbing against it, and over the space of 25-30 miles it has worn right through it.

Yeah! more expense

is this some sort of common Omega design fault? Or should I be ensuring that the brake lines aren't just clear of other componants, but very, very, very well clear?

Omega General Help / First day of usage. First breakdown

« on: 22 February 2011, 21:34:19 »

Swapped the insurance over to the Omega today, and off I went to work.

Having previously (but briefly) had a 2.5 GLS Omega estate on demo, this 2.6 didn't feel anywhere near as quick as I remembered them being. Not that I was thrashing it, I hardly used any more than 1/4 throttle, but there just wasn't the urgancy there that I remembered there being.

25 miles later and the emission fault light starts flashing.

I did the old pedal / fault reading trick, and came up with the following codes;

"P0560 System Voltage High Input
P0560 System Voltage Low Input
P0560 System voltage malfunction"

"P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit high input (Bank 1 or single sensor)
P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit low input (Bank 1 or single sensor) "

"P1614 Wrong Transponder Key Immobiliser
P1614 Immobiliser Wrong Signal Received Immobiliser
P1614 Immobiliser NotProgrammed Immobiliser""

"P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected"

"P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected"

After leaving the car 10-15 minutes with the engine off, I re-started and this time the emissions light didn't flash but stayed on continually. I then drove very slowly and carefully the 5-6 miles back home.

Tickover was at about 600rpm, and it felt to me like it was running on four cylinders.

The car cannot be locked / unlocked by the remote as the battery is flat. When I do unlock the car by the key the hazard warning lights flash untill I start the engine.

So, do you chaps have any idea what exactly I should be looking for here? I've seen code 0560 in the last few weeks as I've been working on the car, but I suspected that that was down to a knackered battery, which today was changed for a new one. No usual signs of altinator failure, (ie; wipers on a go-slow, lights dimming, struggling to start, etc).

Omega General Help / Coolant system dirtier than my wife.

« on: 13 February 2011, 23:31:02 »

And that's pretty dam dirty

Having an old Landie that I use for off-roading, I'm pretty used to coolant systems being minging and filthy, but on the Omega it really is something else.

As I'm running short of time getting it back on the road I've just topped it up with fresh coolant which will have to do for the next couple of weeks, but TBH I don't think that flushing the rad, header tank and heater matrix is going to shift much of the grime.

So, a couple of questions. On Omegas with air-con, oil coolers and god knows what else plumbed into the rad, does everything need to be dissconnected before flushing the rad, or just the top and bottom hose?

Also are there any decent cleaning agents that can be used to shift some of this gunk, or are they all snake oils?

Many thanks

Omega General Help / And after all this work, I think I broke it!

« on: 13 February 2011, 15:06:17 »

Bit of an urgent one this fellas. Sorry.

After screwing it all back together, I finally got the Omega started for the first time today, (about 30 minutes ago actually).

With the battery booster it took some cranking to get it going. I put this down to the fuel filter being replaced, fuel rail being removed, (therefore zero fuel pressure), and the oil and filter being replaced. Also when it did start it sounded like a bag of spanners for the first 10 seconds or so, (so I assume hardly any oil pressure?).

Once started, (it took three attempts!), the "Engine electrics, Transmission electrics & Immobilizer" light stayed on, (but not flashing). This is the symbal that is a picture of a car with a spanner through it.

A few things of note. when changing the oil and filter, I was very carefull not to spill any oil on the crank sensor. I also filled up the canister oil filter with fresh oil prior to putting it on.

The transmission has yet to be touched. All wires, connectors etc are in the correct place and not lose.

The handbrake cable(s) is still dissconnected and the battery is flat in the key.

I left it running for about five minutes whilst I moved a few other vehicles out of the way, (in order to turn the Omega around so I could reverse it into the garage to sort the handbrake cable out).

Once it had started it sounded fine, if a little 'tappity' for the first minute or so. It did stall when I was turning the car around on the road, but at that time it wasn't on full lock and I was moving slowly in reverse. Obviously it needed re-starting with the aid of the battery booster.

The only other thing of note is that the brakes felt just a little spongy, (but not that bad), suggesting that there may still be a little air trapped in the ABS module???

So, what do you guys think? I've really bought a lemon haven't I?

Omega General Help / Re-filling coolant from empty (water pump removed)

« on: 07 February 2011, 11:59:02 »

Sorry for the stupid question chaps....

Water pump changed when I did my cambelt, hence my coolant system is completely empty. I now need to re-fill it.

The Haynes Manual states that I have to "Dissconnect the heater supply upper hose (heater matrix?) from the bulkhead connection" then "Pour coolant into the dissconnected heater hose with the aid of a funnel, untill no more coolant will flow in, then re-connect the heater hose to the bulkhead before filling from the expansion tank".

Is this necessary? I thought that the Omega had a self bleeding system, so filling direct to the expansion tank would be fine?

If I do need to fill the "heater supply" first, then I assume that this is the heater matrix? If so, how easy is it to get to this "upper hose", and can it be reached without removing everything that I have already fitted (plenum, intake trumpets, wiring looms, etc,)?

In advance, many thanks

Omega General Help / Nearly finished, but stuck again.

« on: 06 February 2011, 11:43:21 »

Just a couple of quickies chaps.

Firstly, the wiring looms cover and it's metal bracket that runs along the near side cam cover, (facelift V6). Where does this bolt into? (picture below with my finger pointing to the offending item);

Secondly I have a spare bracket, and I don't know where it goes? :-?

I'm 'assuming' that it goes around the fuel inlet & fuel return pipes, (that connect to the the inlet trumpet), but I can't figure out what it actually bolts to? (pic below);

And lastly, (hopefully), is the bracket on the front of the engine, by the engine hoist bracket, that somehow clamps the air-con pipe. I haven't got a clue how to put that bit back together?

Your very stuck, V6 CDX-er

Omega General Help / Do I need sealant for this???

« on: 04 February 2011, 17:04:35 »

Mounting this induction trumpet;

To it's base between the cylinder heads;

The reason why I ask is because when I took it off some so called 'professional' had smeared a load of bright yellow heavy duty gunk between the trumpet and the base, (now all cleaned off).

I've got a complete new gasket set from Vauxhall, but I'm wondering if it needs a touch of sealant as well, (I was thinking of using the same stuff I used for the cam covers?).

In advance, cheers

Omega General Help / Elite Pete

« on: 02 February 2011, 16:21:23 »

Top bloke

He was kind enough to pop round today to sort out the mess I had made of my cambelt change.

He got it all sorted in a little over an hour, and was the model of professionalism. The added bonus was that his rates were very reasonable.

So, Elite Pete; Thank you very much for your help today. It was very much appriciated

Omega General Help / An idiot asks. Gunson Ezzi-bleed?

« on: 31 January 2011, 17:15:01 »

Firstly, sorry for what may seem like a stupid question chaps.

A bit of background. I had a seized rear caliper, (off side), which I've replaced. During which, because I had sprained the flange nut without realising, I ended up loosing most of my brake fluid.

I had a mate come round the other day to help bleeding the brakes using the old two-man method. After a couple of hours we still hadn't managed to bleed even the first caliper, (near side rear). I had the jar end of the tube submerged in brake fluid so as not to suck any air back into the system, and he kept his foot on the brake untill I had shut the bleed nipple on the caliper.

He would pump and hold, I'd open the nipple and some fluid would come out followed by loads of air bubbles. Then the pressure would drop, requiring me to close the nipple and him to pump again. As I said, this went on for a couple of hours untill late into the night. At that point we called it a day, and I bought a Gunson's Ezzi-bleed the next day.

So, here's my question.....

When I'm using the Ezzi-bleed and I open the bleed nipples, (so far done near side rear and off side front), I'm not seeing any air bubble escape from the tube attached to the bleed nipple. I'd have thought that the brake fluid being injected under pressure would force the air out of each caliper once the bleed nipple was opened, therefore making it clearly visible through the bleed tube attached to the caliper?

One thing of note is that the clear plastic tube attached to the cap that fits onto the master cylinder does leak fluid ever so slightly. Surely it cant be likely that any air in the system is being purged at this point?

Or is what's happening perfectly normal?

Just one quick word of warning though chaps. The first time I attached the Ezzi-bleed and pressured up the system, I ended up with a huge spurt of brake fluid exiting the tube that goes from the bottle to the master cylinder. This was caused by a tiny split in the clear plastic pipe. I took it back to Halfords and we looked at all the other eight items that they had in stock and all eight had the same defect. The hole / split was so small that you could hardly see it with your eyes, but you could feel it by running the edge of your finger nail along the pipe. Problem was solved by pulling the pipe off and cutting a little bit away.

In advance, cheers

Omega General Help / Oil filter canister. 12mm hex drive?

« on: 26 January 2011, 03:31:56 »

As per the tittle really chaps.

I've managed to cut off the chewed up cap of my oil filter canister, removing the very dirty filter element inside in preperation for converting it to a spin-on oil filter.

Inside, attatching the canister to the block is a hex drive. The biggest hex drive that I have is 10mm, which is too small. So in order that I buy the correct size hex drive tomorrow, I just wanted to confirm what size hex drive I will need.

12mm?
13mm?
14mm?

In advance, many thanks

Omega General Help / Is this an OOF first? (snapped oil filter canister

« on: 17 January 2011, 17:13:19 »

So, it seemed that my oil filter canister had decieded to weld itself to the engine block. After juggling around turning the steering this way and that, I finally had enough to get in there with my biggest torque wrench, (everything else had failed to move the oil filter canister).

And then this happened;

:-?

Anyone got any ideas? I've tried a load of different sockets, metric and imperial, but none fit. The 3/8th's end of a socket is far too small and a 1/2" drive too big to fit in the square hole.

How easy is it to cut these buggers off, and am I even likely to get it all off if I do take an angle grinder to it?

Any help, anything at all would be greatly appriciated as I'm starting to come towards my wits end with this car