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6346

Omega General Help / Re: Aux belt and tensioner pulley

« on: 04 February 2017, 11:11:01 »

Gates 6PK2020 on mine. That's 6 ribs, and 2020mm long; a simple part number because it's a standard Lego type part available from any factor, bearing, transmission, machinery supplier, corner shop**, etc in the country. The pulley is a similar part, only a motor factor will want to match it to your car, everybody else will just look up the dimensions as it could have been used on all sorts of one-off machinery. For the pulley I would expect enough change from a tenner to buy a decent coffee.






**OK, corner shop might be a slight exaggeration

6347

General Car Chat / Re: This Week in Wheeler's Workshop

« on: 04 February 2017, 09:49:26 »

That's looking good Nick W.  Will be interested what they are like on the car

Dirtier


It's just a prototype repair caused  by the unavailability of new replacements, and the high cost of tired secondhand parts. Using secondhand rubber mounts smacks of desperation to me. The lack of voids in a stable material suggest it ought to be durable which is my main requirement. You've probably noticed I've only done one, as that's all I need so far.

6348

General Car Chat / Re: This Week in Wheeler's Workshop

« on: 04 February 2017, 09:11:04 »

I could start a new organisation with one rule; just do the job in the way that is most efficient to you.


I would call it Pragmatists Club, but shortening it to PC might lead to some confusion

6349

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: OMEGA service reset

« on: 03 February 2017, 22:47:44 »

I wasn't aware that any Omega had a service indicator to reset? So you just do the required work and keep the receipts.

6350

General Car Chat / Re: Well, what a thoroughly pleasant surprise

« on: 03 February 2017, 22:46:18 »

Speaking of French. Here's one for the masochistic. Or perhaps someone looking to strike up a meaningful relationship with their local RAC man. 


http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201612010256895

Not to mention a £1000 cambelt change if you go to Renault who claim it's an engine out job. And it's due at 70,000 miles, so there's a bloody good chance that one is overdue . It's basically the same procedure as an Omega V6

6351

Omega General Help / Re: Low coolant level warning

« on: 03 February 2017, 22:31:06 »

Most likely to be the level sensor in the expansion / header tank is faulty. I would just replace it with a used one from a scrapper.

When a brand new one is about £40, is that really worth it?

6352

General Car Chat / Re: This Week in Wheeler's Workshop

« on: 03 February 2017, 20:29:42 »

I removed all the bolts, and the part came off the jig easily:





I don't need to be quite so generous with the release agent, as the surface finish isn't brilliant. That won't affect how well it works, but it's no more effort to make a better looking part. The metal outer could do with a coat of paint, although it isn't going to get one.


I'll fit it tomorrow, along with the front springs which should restore the car's ride and ground clearance.

6353

General Car Chat / Re: Well, what a thoroughly pleasant surprise

« on: 03 February 2017, 17:27:06 »

I bet that a Peugeot 407 or Citroen C5 with the 3.0 V6 could be had for very little money.
Potentially Available with manual or 6-speed auto.

fixed that for you. I wonder just how few V6 ones they actually sold?

6354

Omega General Help / Re: What size hose clips??

« on: 03 February 2017, 13:00:48 »

Got one in my hand. Pipe diameter is 19mm, end of pipe taper is 21mm max. I was told years ago that to re-use the sprung clips, as a jubilee clip, if overtightened, could split the plastic, also would not yield as the pipes warmed up and expanded.

If you look up the expansion rates, and do some back-of-an-envelope calculations you'll realise what a crock that actually is.

6355

Omega General Help / Re: What size hose clips??

« on: 03 February 2017, 11:46:45 »

There's a wide overlap in Jubilee clip sizes, you want to use the smallest that fits easily.


I think the HBV hoses want a 20mm(ish) clip. I would have to look at mine to be sure.

6356

General Car Chat / Re: This Week in Wheeler's Workshop

« on: 03 February 2017, 00:36:44 »

Are you infringing any patent rights or anything.

How? I've taken a oppsed part that I already own, and repaired it using common materials and decades old techniques. If they were still​ available, I would have just bought one.

6357

General Car Chat / Re: This Week in Wheeler's Workshop

« on: 02 February 2017, 18:10:06 »

The polyurethane arrived today.


So when I got in from work, I applied lots of vaseline to the jig and parts of the mount I don't want bonded together, mixed about 150g of material, and poured it in.


It's now curing in front of the fire:





It's a small thing, but I should have ordered some black pigment, which would make the finished part look a bit better.

6358

Omega General Help / Re: twitchy backend

« on: 01 February 2017, 21:29:02 »

There has been a lot of discussion on OOF about front wishbone bushes, steering idlers, rear doughnut bushes and diff mounts. I have also seen discussions about freeing up the adjusters in the rear track rods.

I don't recall anyone reporting wear or failure of the semi-trailing arm bushes or the rear track rod bushes. Logically we should be seeing failures as they are just as old as all the other bushes.

Knackered semi trailing arm bushes could give the symptoms as described. Thoughts anyone?

I think that it's a design/installation problem: somebody forgot GM policy, and designed them with the correct geometry! Semi-trailing arm bushes aren't a problem on Ford's IRS either.

6359

Omega General Help / Re: Groaning

« on: 01 February 2017, 21:24:00 »

Dry strut bearings. You can clean and regrease them if they're not too bad, but when new ones are about £20 I don't think that's worth it.

6360

Omega General Help / Re: twitchy backend

« on: 01 February 2017, 19:49:01 »

Thanks for the advice Nick. I  got my car over the pit this afternoon, jacked up both sides near the rear, and levered the rear sub frame mounts about. They really did not move much, not at all sideways, not much up and down. I have seen them move further in MOT tests, but not on this car.

Haynes jacks up and supports the entire rear of the car, removes wheels and front mount support plates, then lowers the sub frame a bit, pops the bolt in the top of the mount, and pulls it down with the puller. You and Feeutso do them one at a time, prying the mounting out from below. I cannot see how I could use my pit with the Haynes method, but I could with yours. From the way you describe it, it can be done. But you're the man who can change rear wheel bearings, which also sounds daunting!

Front subframe bushes are a simple brute force job. Having some extra room to apply it would make the job much easier!


Considering how long the bolt is, you'd have to almost remove the subframe to 'pop it in the top of the mount'


Doing one side at a time means that there's no need to jiggle the subframe around to refit the bolt, as it just goes straight back in.