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Topics - YZ250

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16
I've searched for an answer on here but have come to no conclusion. Sorry if I've missed it.

I've read that GM rear coil springs are mega expensive so does anybody know of a decent alternative. I want to keep the self levelling for towing the van.
I thought I had found an answer with KYB but then several people slated them for going rusty quick.
Would like to go with Boge or Sachs if possible. Car is a 52 plate 3.2 Elite estate.

Any suggestions gratefully received.


17
Omega General Help / Top Mounts
« on: 06 December 2013, 20:39:50 »
Where's the best place to get top mounts from please?

Taxi Al's reply to my other post prompted me to renew the top mounts while I've got the front end apart as I would probably have refitted the originals with 74K on.  :-[

GM replacements are around £70 +vat each so when I spotted SKF top mounts at ECP for £68.40 including vat for a pair I thought I'd get them instead. The trouble is, I dithered while I was ordering bits from GM and they've now gone back up to £100 a pair.

Soooo, just a general enquiry really, where do you guys get yours from?

18
Omega General Help / Front Suspension Spring Snapped
« on: 02 December 2013, 12:04:13 »
As per title, time to get the spanners out as the drivers side front suspension leg spring has snapped.  :'( :'(

Can't find any useful info for front springs or front shocks on TC website. Obviously I will replace both sides but I'm debating whether to change both front shocks as well. Might as well replace the deteriorating rear wishbone bushes while it's apart if I've got to book it in at WIM anyway. I'll have a look at the camber guide before I start ripping it apart.  :y

Car is a 52 plate 3.2 elite with 74K on the clock. I can't find a guide for this but I have plenty of Plus Gas and plenty of tools so I'll make it up as I go along.  ;D

Any advice welcome as always.  :y

19
General Discussion Area / Visiting The Lakes
« on: 30 July 2013, 19:54:15 »
Not many of you lot wanted to go so I've gone to Keswick on my own ;D .......oh, and the wife of course.  :)

Lovely part of the country but possibly a bit too far for me for just a weekend, so I'm here for a few days.  :y A fairly good trip up and the car used about a quarter of a tank to do the 270 mile journey, running a journey average of 58mpg at mostly 70'ish according to the computer.  :o :o ........errr no not the Omega.  ::) ;D
And no, my house isn't empty, there are probably more people in it now than when I left.  ::) ;D Kids eh.  ;D

Any suggestions on places to visit. Done Derwent Water boat trip today and a fair bit of walking but need to keep Mrs YZ happy.  :) :)

20
General Car Chat / Peugeot 206 Misfiring
« on: 09 June 2013, 13:35:19 »
Yeh Yeh, I know, it's French.  ::) ::)

Daughters '53 plate' Peugeot 206 1.4 8V has had an intermittent fault lately but it's just decided to be a permanent fault. Key out and re-start sometimes cleared it but doesn't now.
The symptoms are:
1. Loss of power but the engine will still run and idle, albeit very lumpy and sounds like it's hunting.
2. EML flashes with audible beeping. (Now permanently on and beeping)
3. Starts first time but is reluctant to rev. Very shaky when revved, like it's mis-firing. Struggles to get to 50mph so I have ruled out ICV.  :-\

Very basic checks carried out so far:
1. Unplugged MAP/MAF sensor resulted in no change.
2. Unplugged the injectors one by one with engine running. Injector No.4 had the least impact on idle speed, but not sure how conclusive that is as it seemed to vary.  ::)  :)

Thought I'd put out a feeler on here to you knowledgeable folks first before getting the codes read and then looking at sensors, coil packs etc. Shame they can't be 'blink tested'.  ::)
I've probably introduced a few more codes myself by removing plugs so will get it cleared first.  :y

Cheers for any input ..............................apart from 'its French' insults:y ;D ;D

21
Omega General Help / Replacing Rear Accessory Socket
« on: 23 April 2013, 17:47:48 »
Not really an electrical problem so I've put it here.  :y

Should be so simple but I could rebuild an engine quicker than I can get the accessory socket out.   ::) ;D

I thought my phone charger had died but it appears to be the socket in the rear of the centre console that is at fault.  :-\  I have checked the fuse and the time delay and they are fine so I removed the arm rest, complete with the power socket and heated seat buttons, tested the wiring and that's OK so I assume it's the power socket itself.
I have squeezed the tabs, levered the tabs and they are rigid so I conclude that there must be some sort of twisting / squeezing solution to removing it.  ::)

It's a sad day when I'm defeated by a bit of plastic, so come on guys, what's the method please.   :-\

22
Omega General Help / V6 'B' Bolt and dipstick bracket question
« on: 07 September 2012, 21:45:03 »
I changed the thermostat on my 3.2 today but now have confusion over the 'B' bolt and the dipstick bolt.

When I removed the transfer pipe I obviously removed the 'B' bolt but, as the transfer pipe needed replacing, I removed the dipstick bolt and engine lifting plate for better access. I have replaced the 'B' bolt and lifting bracket but now have nothing to bolt the dipstick to, so I assume a little angle bracket fell off as I undone the dipstick. I did hear something drop but couldn't find anything. I will have another look in the morning but could someone please confirm that I have an angle bracket missing. I imagine it dropped down on to the chassis and is hiding on a ledge somewhere.  :-\
I don't have a photo but the dipstick tab sits about 15-20mm lower than the 'B' bolt, as in Photo No.4 in TheBoys guide on thermostat change on DBW engine.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90647.0

It was not a good day but at least it's easy to get to.  ::) ::)

Off to Vauxhall dealer in the morning to see if they stock said bracket.


Cheers

23
Left for work, car running fine, called in to get petrol one mile into journey. Fuel gauge was just below quarter of a tank and I added another thirty pounds worth. Started car back up and it immediately felt lumpy. Idled ok'ish but when I pulled away it was definately misfiring. After about one hundred yards it cleared itself and ran ok for a further four miles.  :-\  Then the misfire came back with a vengeance and I struggled to get it back home. It had no power and was juddering like a barsteward. The EML (picture of engine) was flashing for a few seconds and then stayed on permanently. I limped it home and had a quick look under the bonnet. Nothing amiss that I could see so I started it back up again. No warning lights stayed on and it revved up like a good-un, no misfire at all. Have to give it a blast in the morning to see if it plays up again. Surely contaminated fuel wouldn't have affected it that quick as it wouldn't have even got through the pipes when it happened.

Anyway, because I'm at work now, I got SWMBO to read the codes via pedal trick and this is what she got. (yes she did check them several times before confirming)  :y

P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

Car is 52 plate 3.2

I've never had the eml come on before, even with the known lambda issues on other peoples cars.  :-\
Any ideas?

Regards
Alan

24
As part of my recent birthday present my son and daughter bought me a Silverstone Choice voucher. You get to choose to drive either a Ferrari, an Aston Martin, a single seater or a fiesta rally car.
Not wishing to sound ungrateful but I had always said that it was a lot of money for just three laps and I would have preferred them not to spend a lot of money on me. I couldn't see much point as I have owned some fairly quick bmw's, done the school of motorcycle racing experience years ago and have a Moto X bike for getting dirty. It is common knowledge in our family that given the choice between driving a supercar or driving a Juggernaut, I would always choose the Juggernaut.  It's the caravanner in me.  ;) :y
Unfortunately,  :'( the Juggernaut experience doesn't appear to be available at Silverstone so I think I'll settle for the Ferrari.

Anybody willing to convince me it's a worthwhile day out.  :-\

Regards
Alan

25
General Car Chat / Just had my Powersounder warning
« on: 15 December 2011, 20:53:06 »
Returned to my car after a bit of Chrimbo shopping to be greeted by a random chirp from the Powersounder. Did it a couple of times as I approached. Twenty minutes later it was off the car and is now securely tied to my neighbours Birch tree.  :y
I did mean to remove it after LJays recent post but never got around to it. I'm just glad I heard it, lucky escape maybe. Car is a late 52 Plate so you've been warned 'again'.  ::) :y

Regards
Alan

26
Hi All,
I have searched the whole electrical section but with no direct answer to my problem so apologies if I've missed it.
I fitted a Nokia CK-7W H/F kit to my 2003 3.2 Elite NCDC 2013 radio some time ago but could never get the radio to mute so that car speakers could be used & to display 'Phone'. I connected via the 18 pin phone pre-wiring VDA plug behind glove box using Autolead 06-109B due to the Bose as advised by Autoleads & Terry at Sio Communications ( before things went pear shaped for him ). The ignition live/constant live and earth are fine so I still use the 18 pin plug but have had to fit the Nokia speaker. I have always used the Nokia mic so this is not an issue. I have seperated the VDA plug from its holder in the past to check that the wires correspond to the kit & they all appear OK. The yellow mute wire from H/F kit comes out of the VDA plug to radio as black as it should but I don't know where it goes from there as I have not yet removed NCDC 2013. The car has not been modded as I have had it from almost new & knew the previous owner. After another chat with Autoleads technical guys they suggested buying relay 06-100B but I have nowhere to fit it. There is no relay space under steering column relay board/ behind fuse board under dash or behind the glove box. I do not have Traffic Master so don't see this as an issue. The phone works fine as it is with me manually turning the radio down but the snob in me (and a comment from 'The Boy' in a previous post refering to crappy Nokia speaker as fitted by lazy fitters) ;D wants it to work properly. The phone is a Nokia 6230i (old I know but it has voice dial) & sits in correct Nokia cradle. This is starting to bug me now along with the fact that Mrs YZ250 keeps kicking the Nokia speaker when she moves her feet around in the passenger footwell. The Sat Nav mutes the radio fine so I was hoping to pick the brains of you guys and gals on this great Forum before I decide to pull out the NCDC 2013 to investigate further or just leave it as it is. Is there a 'safe' way of testing radio mute when I am only armed with a 12V bulb style pin tester? I assume that the mute line is pulled to 'ground' during a call but my radio will not do that so it is the car at fault, not the kit.
Any guidance much appreciated.

27
Omega General Help / Loss of top speed
« on: 01 July 2010, 12:43:22 »
Car runs as sweet as a nut (2003 3.2 Elite Auto) and shows no codes. 50,000 miles on clock.

A couple of days ago I replaced the cam cover seals/spark plugs/fuel filter/crank ventilator box and HBV (irrelevent really). All genuine parts.
Prior to this the car flew, I know the speeds below are normal but it got there pretty rapid.
50mph in first gear, 85mph in second, 128mph in third gear and in the right conditions it would see 150mph on the clock and did not need that much road to get there. (I have a very long driveway) ;) ;)
After changing the above parts (the spark plugs/fuel filter being the only things to affect anything) the car now seems so flat top end power wise. It seems to run out of puff around 125mph whereas before it would fly up to 130-135mph almost anywhere.. :'( :'(
I have checked to see if I forgot to re-connect any vacuum pipes but can't see anything amiss. Idle is rock steady, power is smooth and driven normally you would not notice anything was wrong. the kickdown still pulls hard low down, it is just top end. :'( :'(
As said, there are no codes showing and it runs perfect apart from this but I want my missile back. I've been driving like Miss Daisy for months now but I like to know the power is there. :-/ :-/
All replaced parts were genuine parts.

Has anyone come across this before as I have obviously missed something.

TIA
Regards
Alan

28
Omega General Help / 3.2 Crank Sensor, Genuine or otherwise
« on: 10 May 2010, 18:20:30 »
I know this is a common subject covered in Common Issues and I have had to change them myself so this is not a request for fitting advice as such.

My crank sensor failed on my 2003 3.2 Elite at 45,000 miles showing the usual symptoms but no fault code at all. It did the usual thing, got me to my destination and then refused to start. I called the AA, car was now cold so started as good as gold and made me look an idiot. It eventually let go and refused to start at all which ironically I was pleased about as it meant that I had to find the problem. I changed the crank sensor and all was OK. It was a Bosch part and was replaced by a Bosch part from Auto ????. I routed it as far from exhaust as the wiring allowed but you are restricted by the wiring heatshield.
It has just done it again after less than 4,000 miles (still no fault code) hence my question 'Genuine or otherwise. The price of a Vauxhall Bosch part at the time was £90 (double checked as my hearing is not good) compared to a replacement Bosch part from Auto ???? at £36 including shipping. Big difference so not really a hard decision.
My question is, should I pay the massive extra difference and get one from Vauxhall Dealership? :'(

I have placed this in this section as my car can not be trusted until I change the sensor again but feel free to move it if its in wrong area.

29
Newbie Welcome Area / Better late than never
« on: 06 May 2010, 18:10:31 »
Hi,
My name is Alan & I have been following this Forum for quite some time now. I felt guilty keep viewing as a guest so have just registered as a new member. My current vehicle is a black 2003 3.2 Elite Estate which I bought when it was ten months old so I have had it for six & a half years now. My previous car was a 1998 2.5 Omega Elite Estate which I owned for five years so having had Omega's for over 11 years I am a bit late joining the Forum. My current 3.2 Omega is unmarked and always super shiny much to the amusement of my neighbours. It has a quiet but sporty Cats Back Stainless Jetex exhaust system on it but is otherwise standard.
Many thanks to Forum members who's helpful guides have assisted me as a guest for the past couple of years.

30
General Car Chat / Elite Front Suspension: MV6 or Bilstein B4 Struts?
« on: 10 September 2011, 12:19:28 »
Vehicle is 52 plate 3.2 Elite Estate with 60K on the clock.

Offside wishbone subframe bush is showing signs of splitting and offside front tyre is just starting to feather on inside edge to confirm it so I know both wishbones will need changing soon. While I've got it apart I am going to change the front struts/springs as I can't be ar$ed to do it again at a later date. My original elite front struts are not leaking but are quite bouncy.
Due to OOF's varying opinions I am opting to re-bush my GM wishbones subframe bushes with GM parts and poly the front bush. I'll also give poly donuts a trial on the rear.
The question is, do I buy new MV6 front struts and springs or go for Bilstein B4's/Eibach springs, bearing in mind that I have only just fitted brand new rear SL dampers. Will it look odd with MV6/Bilstein front dampers with elite SL dampers on the rear or should I just keep my elite springs to maintain correct height?
As the rear dampers are brand new I'm pretty much stuck with them and they are handy when towing but I would like the car stiffened up a bit. Will MV6 front & elite SL rears cause any issues? WIM is not far from me so set-up would be done there.


Any comments/suggestions welcomed.  :y

Regards
Alan

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