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[atann]

My nearside Hid headlight is very yellow and with the dark nights it would be nice to clean it up. Any ideas? Does the yellowing affect Hid headlights as much as normal halogen?

[TheBoy]

Yup, they all suffer.

If yours is pre 1998, put MFL headlight on.

If post 1998, get a cleaning kit, such as the 3M one that goes in a drill, and follow instructions to letter.


Its cheaper to buy various bits of sandpaper and compound much, much cheaper, but the 3M kit is only £20, and takes a lot of the hard work out

[VXL V6]

I've found the recent 3M kits seem to have dropped the coarsest sandpaper which for very yellow headlights is essential. I've also found that the final polishing pad in the 3M kit works well with some G3 liquid (Halfords sell it) to get rid of any swirl marks etc.

[TheBoy]

I've found the recent 3M kits seem to have dropped the coarsest sandpaper which for very yellow headlights is essential. I've also found that the final polishing pad in the 3M kit works well with some G3 liquid (Halfords sell it) to get rid of any swirl marks etc.

Being tight, I'm still using my kit from just after the garage going up. Its done about 6 headlights now

Never had the swirl marks, but then I do take longer than what 3M suggest 

[TheBoy]

Though now I know what to expect, and have a better grasp than previously, and also having the drill and buffing pads, I'd buy the sandpaper and compound from anywhere now.

If I was starting afresh, I'd probably still buy one of the kits such as 3M

[Nick W]

A sheet each of 1000 and 1200 grit paper will cost about a quid if you buy them from an expensive supplier. I've done 8 pairs of lamps this year, and used less than half a sheet for all of them. Lots of soapy water and a block are necessary. You never use wet and dry without a block.


A small tube of G3 is expensive at less than a tenner, but you only need a smear per lens. It's handy for other jobs.


A really shitty lens is 10 minutes work, by hand, off the car. Slightly quicker on the car, as it's already secure.


Headlamps are too small to bother with a power tool.

[atann]

A sheet each of 1000 and 1200 grit paper will cost about a quid if you buy them from an expensive supplier. I've done 8 pairs of lamps this year, and used less than half a sheet for all of them. Lots of soapy water and a block are necessary. You never use wet and dry without a block.


A small tube of G3 is expensive at less than a tenner, but you only need a smear per lens. It's handy for other jobs.


A really shitty lens is 10 minutes work, by hand, off the car. Slightly quicker on the car, as it's already secure.


Headlamps are too small to bother with a power tool.

That is what I was hoping to avoid, the use of a power tool. If I get some G3, do I just use it with a cloth or sandpaper?

[atann]

You mean G3 polish?

[Nick W]

Have a read of this [url]http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=134048.15/[url]

[lloyd3213]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/3MTM-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/dp/B016ZVPUV6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478005528&sr=8-2 works perfectly for restoring the cloudy lens

[atann]

Have a read of this [url]http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=134048.15/[url]

Thanks for the link Nick, interesting reading. It's funny, my off-side light looks brand new? Unless it was replaced at some point. My first car with Xenons, they make such a difference.

[DrAndyB]

My nearside Hid headlight is very yellow and with the dark nights it would be nice to clean it up. Any ideas? Does the yellowing affect Hid headlights as much as normal halogen?

Yep, as others have said polish with a good quality wet and dry waterproof paper, with ever increasing grades.  I start with 3000, but take my time.  I also apply a bit of G3 Professional Scratch Remover Paste (£8 from Amazon) and plenty of water and just keep with it.  Then lots of water, wash down lots of times, then I progress to 5000 and then final 7000 grade.  Finally dry off and apply a good quality UV Sealer and then a few coats of good wax.  You will admire the results 

Here is the result when I did the ones on my Dads Desmond a few months ago as they were starting to go.


My MFL V6 I have kept in the Garage (owned from new) so the sun not really had chance to batter them as seen in pic of my headlights below (plus I have the GM Perspex headlight protectors on them which I think has helped keep the UV off !


Happy polishing 

[atann]

My nearside Hid headlight is very yellow and with the dark nights it would be nice to clean it up. Any ideas? Does the yellowing affect Hid headlights as much as normal halogen?

Yep, as others have said polish with a good quality wet and dry waterproof paper, with ever increasing grades.  I start with 3000, but take my time.  I also apply a bit of G3 Professional Scratch Remover Paste (£8 from Amazon) and plenty of water and just keep with it.  Then lots of water, wash down lots of times, then I progress to 5000 and then final 7000 grade.  Finally dry off and apply a good quality UV Sealer and then a few coats of good wax.  You will admire the results 

Here is the result when I did the ones on my Dads Desmond a few months ago as they were starting to go.


My MFL V6 I have kept in the Garage (owned from new) so the sun not really had chance to batter them as seen in pic of my headlights below (plus I have the GM Perspex headlight protectors on them which I think has helped keep the UV off !


Happy polishing 

Good results there Dr Andy. Funny my offside is as new.

[atann]

Would T-cut or Meguiars work just as well?

[Nick W]

Would T-cut or Meguiars work just as well?

It's not really coarse enough to cut through the crud. That's what the paper does effortlessly, and the G3 compound(or whatever expensive magic potion you might have) restores the finish.


This was really bad, so it was sanded with a couple of passes of 1000 then 1200grit paper which created the dull but even finish:







A quick buff with the compound(by hand) produced a usable lamp:

[atann]

Would T-cut or Meguiars work just as well?

It's not really coarse enough to cut through the crud. That's what the paper does effortlessly, and the G3 compound(or whatever expensive magic potion you might have) restores the finish.


This was really bad, so it was sanded with a couple of passes of 1000 then 1200grit paper which created the dull but even finish:






A quick buff with the compound(by hand) produced a usable lamp:

I'm going to use the paper you recommend for the grud, but T-Cut should restore the finish?

[Nick W]

I'm going to use the paper you recommend for the crud, but T-Cut should restore the finish?

If you have T-cut, then try it. But it's too fine to be particularly effective. If you have to buy the wet&dry paper, then it's probably worth getting adding a sheet each of 1500 and 2000, which might bring the finish closer to a starting point for T-cut. Which will still be hard work.

[biggriffin]

I. Did the 1000 then 1200 then 1500, lots of water then finished them off with G3 and a polish with autoglym.

[powerslinky]

I. Did the 1000 then 1200 then 1500, lots of water then finished them off with G3 and a polish with autoglym.

My formula as well BG  . . .  G3 with a polisher though . . much easier

[Magwheels]

I used the wet "n" dry paper method then lacquered them with an aerosol lacquer and they stayed bright and shiny for a good few years until I sold the car. Makes such a difference to the look of the front end!! Need to do them on this one now as they are going yellow as well. Won't take them out just do them in situ and stick a bit of paper around the lamps when lacquering.

[Nick W]

I. Did the 1000 then 1200 then 1500, lots of water then finished them off with G3 and a polish with autoglym.

My formula as well BG  . . .  G3 with a polisher though . . much easier

If you use wet&dry for the hard work, then very little buffing is necessary. I can do both by hand in the time it takes to get the extension lead and polisher ready to use, let alone actually doing the job and cleaning up afterwards. Most of the lamps I've done have been off the car, so some method of holding them would be needed for machine polishing.

[DrAndyB]

Helped out an elderly neighbour today and did their lights as I noticed the plastic was rough and on the turn 

G3 paste & 3000 Grid Wet and Dry with lots of water, then lots of water and 3000, then 5000 and finish with 7000 grit 

Polish with AutoGlym Super Resin and then a top UV protector 

He was over the moon with it.  Here is a before and after.

It wasn't an Omega  , but happy to help him out. 

Before 


After 

[Doctor Gollum]

Nissan grotbox by the look

Job jobbed though

[DrAndyB]

Nissan grotbox by the look

Job jobbed though

Yep, a Nissan Note, AUTOMATIC   

The chap was well chuffed and I saved him being fleeced by a Garage 

[Stargazer57N]

Mine was suffering the same, being a tight arse before buying a lens polishing kit I thought I would try some of the things I had hanging around in my shed. I found that Auotsol metal polish did the trick, needed a lot of elbow grease too but worked a treat. The guy I car share with even commented on how much brighter my headlights were the other morning so it must have worked.

[DrAndyB]

Mine was suffering the same, being a tight arse before buying a lens polishing kit I thought I would try some of the things I had hanging around in my shed. I found that Auotsol metal polish did the trick, needed a lot of elbow grease too but worked a treat. The guy I car share with even commented on how much brighter my headlights were the other morning so it must have worked.