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LC0112G

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My jobs to do this winter/spring
« on: 04 January 2018, 15:59:16 »

Was going to wait till it's a bit warmer, but have now got a miss-fire so have had to swap to something else. Whilst the car is in the man cave, there's a long list of jobs that I'm going to tackle. So treat this more as a blog than a request for help at the moment. However, if you think there is something I should tackle that I've not mentioned, do pipe up.

FWIW 2001 Y reg Omega B Elite saloon, RHD, 3.0 V6 auto.

1) Front Suspension. The handling is frankly shocking - steering wheel adjusts the angle of lean rather than the direction of travel.
1a) New Shocks. Will ask at Vx, but even if not NLS I suspect price will shove me firmly down the Bilstein B4 route.
1b) New Springs. If not Vx then what's recommended? I suppose I could use LC spec springs :-)
1c) New Top Mounts. I think these are standard Carlton so I should have these in the stash.

2) Steering/front end
2a) Re-furbed wishbones (I'll probably strip and powder coat some old ones).
2b) Poly front bushes - From?
2c) VX verticals
2d) New ball joints
2e) New track rods
2f) Replacement wheel bearings. (MOT advise and I've got dozens of ex Carly ones in the cave)
2g) May throw a new set of brake disks pads and calipers at it too. Calipers are pretty mankey.

3) Anti Roll Bar stuff
3a) New ARB bushes - Might have these if Carly ones fit, if not then Powerflex or similar.
3b) New drop links. All German?

4) Rear suspension - have previously replaced rear springs and shocks with OEM, and rear disks and calipers.
4a) New rear donut bushes
4b) New rear track-rod arms (one is bent) All German?
4c) See if there is any oil in the diff  ;D
4d) Work up enough enthusiasm to replace the oopsing fuel filter.

5) Windscreen wipers
5a) Replace wiper arm assembly - excessive travel and play in sweep. Scrapyard.

6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
6a) New cam cover seals
6b) New spark plugs all round
6c) Possibly new ignition leads if 6a/6b don't cure it
6d) Possibly new ignition coil pack if 6a/6b/6c don't cure it.

7) Cooling
7a) New main rad.
7b) Replace heater matrix pipework with new (already bought).

Ho hum. Wish me luck.

Cheers
Malcolm
« Last Edit: 04 January 2018, 16:01:27 by LC0112G »
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terry paget

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #1 on: 04 January 2018, 16:12:30 »

Good luck!
I had a gardening pal like you - best part of his year was December and January, when he would browse the seed catalogues, order his seeds and dream of how they would look when they all came up.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #2 on: 04 January 2018, 16:55:40 »

Poly bushes - Powerflex, availabel from just about anywhere. Use GM rear bushes (if its a GM wishbone). Use genuine coppaslip on the polys, as the stuff powerflex supply is inadeqaute and washes away (like cheap copper grease). I'd only change balljoints if old ones are shot.

Front ARB, if the old bushes aren't shot, keep them. Polys seem to squeak like crazy, irrespective of greasing.

Springs - Sach if wantings std. If you want lowered, probably eibach are only choice now. Rear of car does not lower too well.

ARB Droplinks - Meyle HD seem to last well IME, available from multiple places, such as AGP etc


Keep us updated with pictures of progress :y
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #3 on: 04 January 2018, 17:28:54 »


Agreed, so much aftermarket stuff is poor these days that It's not worth changing original parts that aren't MOT failures, IMHO.
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #4 on: 04 January 2018, 17:32:04 »


Agreed, so much aftermarket stuff is poor these days that It's not worth changing original parts that aren't MOT failures, IMHO.

Originals are riveted in though aren't they? If I want to powder coat the arms then they've got to come out. I suppose if I can get them out without damaging them then they could go back in again (with bolts).
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Kevin Wood

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #5 on: 04 January 2018, 17:39:57 »

Yep, I would have thought you'd be able to bolt on the old ball joints. They certainly won't take well to being in a powdercoating oven, and, actually, I've used the bottom ball joints from cheap wishbones without any problems.

I also agree that the bushes are worth doing, and definitely polybush the front one.

For other parts that are just bolt-on replacements, I wouldn't bother.

I just seem to be in a position at the moment where only a few of my original suspension parts have required replacement, at 216k miles and 15 years old, yet any replacement parts seem to last a year or two. I've had several sets of drop links last a year at most (Meyle HD on now, and lasting better), I have a B4 that's leaking after a year, etc.. It speaks volumes about the difference in quality between what was factory fitted and everything available in the aftermarket.
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #6 on: 04 January 2018, 17:40:52 »

Poly bushes - Powerflex, availabel from just about anywhere. Use GM rear bushes (if its a GM wishbone). Use genuine coppaslip on the polys, as the stuff powerflex supply is inadeqaute and washes away (like cheap copper grease). I'd only change balljoints if old ones are shot.

Front ARB, if the old bushes aren't shot, keep them. Polys seem to squeak like crazy, irrespective of greasing.

Springs - Sach if wantings std. If you want lowered, probably eibach are only choice now. Rear of car does not lower too well.

ARB Droplinks - Meyle HD seem to last well IME, available from multiple places, such as AGP etc


Keep us updated with pictures of progress :y

Thanks. Hoping to do the front end strip down Sat AM before the mighty YTFC thrash Bradford in the FA Cup.

Springs - Sach if wantings std. If you want lowered, probably eibach are only choice now. Rear of car does not lower too well.

I want everything as near to standard as possible. Will go for Vx springs if I can get them and the price isn't too silly, but ATM I can't make head nor tail of EPC - I think it may be  P/n VX90509080 or VX90541754 (haven't got my chassis number handy). If Vx are NLS or too pricey I was looking at some Bilstein B3's from the same place as the Shox though they're about £55 each.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #7 on: 04 January 2018, 17:44:15 »

Last time I bought dampers for the MV6 there were £155 for all four IIRC and they are made by Sachs, not sure if they`re NLS now though  :-\
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #8 on: 04 January 2018, 18:04:01 »

I would completely overhaul the front end: new shocks, bearings, top mounts, bump stops, springs, wishbones(but with poly front bushes), droplinks and track rods. I would consider, but probably not bother with, the idler arm and centre track rod. Refurbing Vx wishbones in my experience is pointless. I'm not hung up on brands for any of this stuff; my car has shocks, top mounts and bearings bought from All German, the bearings claim to be SKF, and the shocks were Sachs. Everything else is unbranded stuff from ATP; the front springs raised the car 30mm and restored the ride over the 190K knackered originals and were about £30 the pair. I've never regretted changing shocks and springs on any car I've owned. Leave the anti-roll bar bushes; they never seem to wear out and new rubber ones are about £5 a pair.


Wheel bearings are only worth changing if they have play in them.


Discs and pads are simple consumables to be changed when required. You'll know what your requirements are: some of us get ten-times the wear out of these than other members here! Same applies to wipers, but your reported sweep problem is a replacement linkage - used is the way to go.


At the rear, new donuts are a worthwhile and cheap. New tie rods as yours are damaged. The diff mounts probably warrant investigation. You'll be looking at refurbing those as new ones have been NLA for ages. My diff got a lot quieter when I 'topped it up' with a litre of oil :o  Budget £20 for new handbrake shoes at some point.


Fuel filter: take some MTFU pills and just do it. It won't need doing again.


Misfire: It will be ignition caused by the oil in the plug wells, so fix that and replace the faulty stuff that isn't normal consumables.


Cooling: if the radiator is worn, damaged or leaking then change it. Otherwise, I would leave it and the hoses alone. New ones are likely to be just as old as the ones on the car and are only worth changing if you have to. I've bad experiences of doing this sort of replacement 'for reliability'. A new heater matrix is to be recommended though.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #9 on: 04 January 2018, 18:11:57 »

RE: Rear Track Rods

PartService down in Exeter sell Moog track rods for £43.64 each as opposed to Lemforder from ECP for £96.99!  :y

Maybe they're made of spaghetti, but worth considering at that price and I think Moog are a well known brand?  ???  In the motorsport world?  :-\

http://www.partservice.co.uk/partsearch/part/index/id/6048174/cat/4846/

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vauxhall_Omega_3.0_2001/p/car-parts/suspension/suspension-and-steering/suspension-arm-and-suspension-joints/?622720015&1&5f950f8efd38fd0119425dca4ea2f0858c25e45f&000320

« Last Edit: 04 January 2018, 18:14:04 by Sir Tigger QC »
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #10 on: 04 January 2018, 18:25:06 »

Bought a pair of rear track Rods for £98 from Germany, Berlin iirc, genuine Lemforder. Also awaiting a load of parts from ATP, but sadly too late for the front tyres >:(
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #11 on: 04 January 2018, 18:27:19 »

Nick,

Thanks for that. Agree with most/all of it. The car is rapidly approaching 300K miles, and I'm doing 15K per year and AFAIK it's on the original shocks, springs and bushes. I've been driving the Carlton all week I have come to realise how awful the Omega handling is. Same front tyres on both cars (Bridgestone 235-45-R17) and I reckon there is a 30MPH difference in cornering speed on my private test track so in my mind it can only be suspension related. Which is why I've more or less come to the same conclusion as you and am intending to replace the whole front end.

Idler arm was changed (for a cheap one) after an MOT advisory in September.

Rad change is because I've got a very small water leak from either the rad or the pipes that connect to it, or something else (switches, temp senders). I can't see where it's coming from (just a small damp patch on the floor under the NSF corner) and it needs about a pint of water every month or so. The Rad is going to have to come out to investigate, and for the cost of an after market rad I think it'll make sense to replace a 16 year old 300K rad anyway. 

I changed the rear disks and calipers last year and did the handbrake shoes at the same time. However, you have reminded me of another job for the list :

4c) Replace Handbrake cable. The rubber end boots are split and the cable rusts to the sheath resulting in MOT failures each year for handbrake efficiency.
« Last Edit: 04 January 2018, 18:29:55 by LC0112G »
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Nick W

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #12 on: 04 January 2018, 18:40:45 »


Rad change is because I've got a very small water leak from either the rad or the pipes that connect to it, or something else (switches, temp senders). I can't see where it's coming from (just a small damp patch on the floor under the NSF corner) and it needs about a pint of water every month or so. The Rad is going to have to come out to investigate, and for the cost of an after market rad I think it'll make sense to replace a 16 year old 300K rad anyway. 


4c) Replace Handbrake cable. The rubber end boots are split and the cable rusts to the sheath resulting in MOT failures each year for handbrake efficiency.


Mine needs a new radiator, as the slight leak for the last couple of months is now obvious when I turn off the engine; fresh blue coolant drips off the bottom of the bumper. Bloody thing.


The handbrake cable is about £25 and a pain to change. The boots on mine were missing, and it tore out of the brackets when the tester pulled it harder than I do. When I use it, which probably doesn't help. It could be Italian; I've been to several Fiats and Alfas where the cable had frozen solid.
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VXL V6

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #13 on: 04 January 2018, 18:45:07 »

Meyle HD are the only droplinks worth fitting in my opinion. Genuine GM last about 10K now and all the others are utter shite lasting far less.

Meyle HD on daily driver for the last two years (over 70K) with no issue and running on the other cars with lower annual mileages also with no issue.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #14 on: 04 January 2018, 19:04:56 »

Meyle HD are the only droplinks worth fitting in my opinion. Genuine GM last about 10K now and all the others are utter shite lasting far less.

Meyle HD on daily driver for the last two years (over 70K) with no issue and running on the other cars with lower annual mileages also with no issue.

My wishbones were supplied by ATP and came with drop links and track rods (all fitted by Saint Serek); does this mean they will have a short life?

Ron.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #15 on: 04 January 2018, 19:25:32 »

Meyle HD are the only droplinks worth fitting in my opinion. Genuine GM last about 10K now and all the others are utter shite lasting far less.

Meyle HD on daily driver for the last two years (over 70K) with no issue and running on the other cars with lower annual mileages also with no issue.

My wishbones were supplied by ATP and came with drop links and track rods (all fitted by Saint Serek); does this mean they will have a short life?

Ron.

Only time will tell...  :y
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #16 on: 04 January 2018, 22:08:52 »

Please explain to me what powder coating of wishbones entails, and what the point of it is.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #17 on: 04 January 2018, 22:57:49 »

Please explain to me what powder coating of wishbones entails, and what the point of it is.


It replaces paint. It's only applicable to metal objects, so the wishbone would need to be completely stripped of all the bushes, ball joints etc. Then you really ought to blast it back to clean metal, before spraying an electrostatically charged powder over it. Finally it gets baked at about 200degrees to melt the powder into one homogeneous coating. You'll have seen it on cheap tubular structures - things like garden swings and trampolines - as they are a pain to paint efficiently.


Is it worthwhile on a wishbone? Not in my opinion; there are too many sharp edges on a flexible part which mean that the coating is even less reliable than a properly applied paint. But then I can't see any need to do much to a part that's best considered consumable.
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #18 on: 05 January 2018, 02:26:53 »

Is it worthwhile on a wishbone? Not in my opinion; there are too many sharp edges on a flexible part which mean that the coating is even less reliable than a properly applied paint. But then I can't see any need to do much to a part that's best considered consumable.

I've got a shelf full of used wishbones (probably 8 or so) - all removed for excessive play in either the vertical bush or ball joint. I've already got new genuine VX vertical bushes in my stash and poly bushes on order. I want to poly bush the horizontal one and hopefully stiffen up that part. If I buy 'new' wishbones I'll have to either have to buy genuine VX ones (for $$$$) or after market ones (at probably £80 ish a side). I'll then have to press out one or two perfectly serviceable horizontal and vertical bushes to replace with the ones I want to use.

Makes more sense to me to just press out the (used) bushes from the best pair of wishbones on my shelf. I can get powder coating done quite cheaply locally- perhaps £10 a pair. I've had quite a lot of parts on the Carlton done, and they always seem to last better than after market painted ones. Agree it's very dependent on the quality of the strip down and coating though.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #19 on: 05 January 2018, 10:20:37 »

One think that might be an issue with powder coating is that it's brittle, so an item like a wishbone will pick up stone chips very quickly. I think they'd need a coat of stone chip paint on top to last, which then calls into question the value of powder coating them at all. ;)
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #20 on: 05 January 2018, 11:04:27 »

So, VX dealer this morning...

1a) VX-09192250 RH front shock £100
1a) VX-09192249 LH front shock NLS
1b) VX-90541754 Front Springs NLS

2c) VX-09156605 Front wishbone vertical bush £25.05

4a) VX-90447156 Rear Donut bush £68.50
4c) VX-24404062 Handbrake cable £74

The above are full list prices (you should get discount) and everything that is actually available has to come from Germany so 10+ days delivery. I was tempted by the genuine shox - not much more than the B4's, but I wasn't aware they were handed and the LH one is NLS. Wonder what I'll find when I take the old ones off? 
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #21 on: 05 January 2018, 11:07:44 »

One think that might be an issue with powder coating is that it's brittle, so an item like a wishbone will pick up stone chips very quickly. I think they'd need a coat of stone chip paint on top to last, which then calls into question the value of powder coating them at all. ;)

Several people have said that, but I've never had an issue - despite several trips through gravel traps at various circuits. I suspect it very much depends on the quality of the prep before the powder coat goes on - but the same is true for paint.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #22 on: 05 January 2018, 12:25:49 »

Genuine Vx front shocks are only handed because of the brake hose/wiring bracket. Aftermarket ones use a differently shaped bracket so only one part is required.

The only item on that list I would buy is the wishbone rear bush.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #23 on: 06 January 2018, 10:46:51 »

Four Sachs shocks can be bought for less than £200 ;)

Identical to the factory original, including rear fittings(something that Bilstein have yet to grasp), and as said, only difference is the doubled up hose bracket on the front ones ;)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #24 on: 06 January 2018, 11:18:55 »

Four Sachs shocks can be bought for less than £200 ;)

Identical to the factory original, including rear fittings(something that Bilstein have yet to grasp), and as said, only difference is the doubled up hose bracket on the front ones ;)
I started having problems with GM shocks not lasting beyond about 40k, which put me off them.

Of course, I might have just been unlucky.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #25 on: 06 January 2018, 11:44:18 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #26 on: 06 January 2018, 14:52:44 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
It can because it can insulate the CP from plug.

Plus it eats the rubber boots, which then cause them to fail.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #27 on: 06 January 2018, 20:18:44 »

Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)


You'll change your mind about that when you see an engine fire caused by oil in plug wells
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #28 on: 06 January 2018, 23:18:56 »

Poly bushes - Powerflex, availabel from just about anywhere. Use GM rear bushes (if its a GM wishbone). Use genuine coppaslip on the polys, as the stuff powerflex supply is inadeqaute and washes away (like cheap copper grease). I'd only change balljoints if old ones are shot.

Front ARB, if the old bushes aren't shot, keep them. Polys seem to squeak like crazy, irrespective of greasing.

Springs - Sach if wantings std. If you want lowered, probably eibach are only choice now. Rear of car does not lower too well.

ARB Droplinks - Meyle HD seem to last well IME, available from multiple places, such as AGP etc


Keep us updated with pictures of progress :y

Thanks. Hoping to do the front end strip down Sat AM before the mighty YTFC thrash Bradford in the FA Cup.

Springs - Sach if wantings std. If you want lowered, probably eibach are only choice now. Rear of car does not lower too well.

I want everything as near to standard as possible. Will go for Vx springs if I can get them and the price isn't too silly, but ATM I can't make head nor tail of EPC - I think it may be  P/n VX90509080 or VX90541754 (haven't got my chassis number handy). If Vx are NLS or too pricey I was looking at some Bilstein B3's from the same place as the Shox though they're about £55 each.
Yeovil Ladies didnít fare too well against the Liverpool lasses.......8-0  :)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #29 on: 07 January 2018, 01:08:26 »


Yeovil Ladies didnít fare too well against the Liverpool lasses.......8-0  :)

I expect the Yeovil girls were told that if they won the match they'd find their bus on bricks after!  ::)  :P

Calm down, calm down!  :D
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #30 on: 07 January 2018, 01:39:56 »

Yeovil Ladies didnít fare too well against the Liverpool lasses.......8-0  :)

Yeovil Ladies are out of their depth. In mens terms they are basically a part time team of Conference standard players playing in the Premiership. They have lost all 6 games so far this season without scoring a single goal. Last season they got just one draw and 7 losses in their 8 games. They did well in 2016 to get promotion into WSL1 but they really aren't good enough to stay up against the other full time teams.

YTFC Mens team are a similar bunch of useless halfwits most of the time - a mix of ageing journeymen, young no-hopers, and loanees who often don't really want to be here. However today they did outclass a Bradford team doing well in the division above to win through 2-0. Big team home or away in the next round please. I've seen Liverpool, Man U, Arsenal, Southampton and Fulham at Huish Park - Quite fancy a Chelsea or Spurs next round please. I'll be the one behind the goal with a cardboard cut-out of the cup covered in tinfoil  ;D

Anyway - I overslept this morning, so the start of the strip-down is on hold till tomorrow ::)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #31 on: 07 January 2018, 15:45:44 »

Genuine Vx front shocks are only handed because of the brake hose/wiring bracket. Aftermarket ones use a differently shaped bracket so only one part is required.

The only item on that list I would buy is the wishbone rear bush.

Yes, B4's have a 'double bracket' - one on each side so irrelevant which side.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #32 on: 08 January 2018, 09:42:41 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
It can because it can insulate the CP from plug.

Plus it eats the rubber boots, which then cause them to fail.
When I was running 24v Senators they suffered oil in the plug wells, which we on the Senator Yahoo group thought normal. On plug changes I would siphon most of it out, then let the rest drain in the engine. If it smelled too much some members drilled small holes in the oil filler cap, inserted a small hose which ended beneath the car. This cured the smell, and the oil in the plug holes too!
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #33 on: 08 January 2018, 10:31:29 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
It can because it can insulate the CP from plug.

Plus it eats the rubber boots, which then cause them to fail.
When I was running 24v Senators they suffered oil in the plug wells, which we on the Senator Yahoo group thought normal. On plug changes I would siphon most of it out, then let the rest drain in the engine. If it smelled too much some members drilled small holes in the oil filler cap, inserted a small hose which ended beneath the car. This cured the smell, and the oil in the plug holes too!

That`s something my 24v Senator didn`t suffer from, in a lot of ways it was way better than the MV6 that replaced it.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #34 on: 08 January 2018, 11:16:46 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
It can because it can insulate the CP from plug.

Plus it eats the rubber boots, which then cause them to fail.
When I was running 24v Senators they suffered oil in the plug wells, which we on the Senator Yahoo group thought normal. On plug changes I would siphon most of it out, then let the rest drain in the engine. If it smelled too much some members drilled small holes in the oil filler cap, inserted a small hose which ended beneath the car. This cured the smell, and the oil in the plug holes too!

Sounds like a hack  ???  :-\

I ran a 24v Senator for a while, never had any issues like that.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #35 on: 08 January 2018, 13:03:29 »

  Hi Malc, I can help with the following;-
2d, 2e, 2g, 3b, 4c, 4d, 5, 6c
Pm me and let me know

Keith ABS
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #36 on: 08 January 2018, 14:04:04 »


6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
Cheers
Malcolm
Contrary to popular belief, oil in the plug wells doesn't cause misfires, but water will (or dis pack / leads / other things)  ::)
It can because it can insulate the CP from plug.

Plus it eats the rubber boots, which then cause them to fail.
When I was running 24v Senators they suffered oil in the plug wells, which we on the Senator Yahoo group thought normal. On plug changes I would siphon most of it out, then let the rest drain in the engine. If it smelled too much some members drilled small holes in the oil filler cap, inserted a small hose which ended beneath the car. This cured the smell, and the oil in the plug holes too!

That`s something my 24v Senator didn`t suffer from, in a lot of ways it was way better than the MV6 that replaced it.
Mine were all ex-police manuals, very fast. The achilles heel was the distributor, mounted behind the cheese grater grill, source of many a misfire. Head gasket failure was not uncommon either.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #37 on: 08 January 2018, 16:30:48 »

Ok, slowly narrowing down the options...

Looks like I can get either Bilstein B4's shox for circa £130 a pair, or Sachs for circa £112 a pair.

But I'm struggling to work out what to do for springs. Bilstein appear to be saying their 'kit' is different for NSF (36-130221) and RH (36-134014). This appears to mirror what EPC says for LHD cars, but EPC also says RHD cars have the same for OSF and NSF, and neither are the same as either of the LHD springs.  Same goes for QH off eBay - there appears to be a 20mm length difference between NSF and OSF springs. And Sachs from ECP list two different springs too - and both are out of stock.

So what have people actually used?
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #38 on: 09 January 2018, 01:14:47 »

Rears...

VAUXHALL OMEGA ESTATE COIL SPRINGS REAR 2.0 2.5 3.0

Seller has a selection...

Fronts...

2x Vauxhall Omega MK2/B 2.0 Estate Genuine Kilen Front Suspension Coil Springs

Again, seller has a selection.

Shocks are Sachs from ATP :y
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #40 on: 09 January 2018, 09:56:05 »

Rears...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-ESTATE-COIL-SPRINGS-REAR-2-0-2-5-3-0/230221325046?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353

Seller has a selection...

Fronts...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Vauxhall-Omega-MK2-B-2-0-Estate-Genuine-Kilen-Front-Suspension-Coil-Springs/361557369785?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Again, seller has a selection.

Shocks are Sachs from ATP :y

Thanks.

Trouble is, if you read the Kilen catalogue, they list two different parts for the 3.0V6 - one for the NSF (p/n 20059), and a different one for the OSF (p/n 20060). So whilst I don't doubt they'll fit it seems unlikely they are RHD spec springs, since the genuine Vx part is the same both sides.

I measured the OSF spring off my car last night. No obvious letter markings, but it does have brown and white paint marks which I remember seeing mentioned on Carlton springs but there is nothing mentioned in EPC. Total length was 360mm, and the coil wire was 14.5mm thick. The Kilen catalogue says 20059 is 14mm wire and 383mm long, whilst 20060 is 14mm wire and 363mm long. So if I had to guess I'd say 20060 is the closest part to OEM, but being thinner wire there is a chance they'll be softer than OEM which I really don't want.
« Last Edit: 09 January 2018, 09:57:54 by LC0112G »
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Nick W

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #41 on: 09 January 2018, 10:40:43 »

When measuring the length of used springs, don't forget that they will have sagged, and will be shorter than new ones. The wire thickness probably won't have changed though ;D
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #42 on: 11 January 2018, 21:58:56 »

Finished the strip down tonight dismantling the NSF suspension. Vertical bush in the NSF wishbone was FUBAR. However....

The vertical bolt has fallen into the sub-frame. For a while I had a tenuous hold of it but I couldn't get it out. Then it slipped, and has disappeared somewhere inside the sub-frame. Spent perhaps an hour with various magnets on sticks, and long coat hangar wires fishing about inside trying to find it but no joy. Any Ideas how to find it? Or is the sub-frame going to have to come off?  >:(

Both shocks seem Ok - Both are original Vx and the OSF still has the label with the part number and code "RM" on is. Springs also seem Ok if a little rusty at the bottom - both are "Brown/White" paint coded, 24.5mm wire and 360mm long. Will fit new shocks anyway, but still not sure which aftermarket springs to buy.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #43 on: 11 January 2018, 23:32:38 »

The vertical bolt has fallen into the sub-frame. For a while I had a tenuous hold of it but I couldn't get it out. Then it slipped, and has disappeared somewhere inside the sub-frame. Spent perhaps an hour with various magnets on sticks, and long coat hangar wires fishing about inside trying to find it but no joy. Any Ideas how to find it? Or is the sub-frame going to have to come off?  >:(

Seem to recall this happening to one of my cars when Daz and I were doing the wishbones, think one person encouraging the bolt back up to the point it fell into the subframe and long needle nose pliers, fingers, magnet, blood and cursing from the other person attempting to reach it was the answer.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #44 on: 12 January 2018, 00:12:16 »

I had the same happen. It took me a couple of hours and all my reserves of patience to tease it back out.
Might be easier to just leave it where it is and source another bolt ?
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #45 on: 12 January 2018, 13:06:22 »

Happened to me too!  ::)  >:(  ;D

And yes you'll will need much patience, but keep trying and you will fish it out.  I think I managed to drag it back towards the hole with a bit of wire with a hook bent into the end and poked a large screwdriver with a magnetic end in which got a stronger hold on it and managed to get it out.  ::)  It did take a couple of hours though....   :(

After that I always tied a bit of string to the bolt when removing it or installing it, so I could pull the bolt out of the subframe if t happened again.  ;)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #46 on: 12 January 2018, 13:40:07 »

As will I in the unlikely event of me doing the job again.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #47 on: 13 January 2018, 09:50:59 »

I always check that I have a spare vertical bolt before embarking on the job.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #48 on: 13 January 2018, 11:40:17 »

I have a short list for the Omega this spring / summer. Apart from normal servicing, the only mechanical work I can think off is to fit the rear doughnut bushes I bought over a year ago.
Might replace the front dampers at some point as I think they may be a bit soft, but that then leads to another session of four wheel alignment, and its already been done twice in just over a year.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #49 on: 13 January 2018, 11:59:38 »

I have a short list for the Omega this spring / summer. Apart from normal servicing, the only mechanical work I can think off is to fit the rear doughnut bushes I bought over a year ago.
Might replace the front dampers at some point as I think they may be a bit soft, but that then leads to another session of four wheel alignment, and its already been done twice in just over a year.
That's the price you pay for not changing the lot ::)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #50 on: 13 January 2018, 13:40:02 »

I did change the lot but the front legs were a pair of used ex plod that I took a chance on. They were by no means completely knackered, and the plod springs are a great improvement, but I think the dampers are a bit too bouncy and am considering putting a new pair on.  :y
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #51 on: 13 January 2018, 15:22:08 »

Let you off then ;)

If you drive the car, and aren't interested in lowering, then plod springs are a good choice :y
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #52 on: 13 January 2018, 16:38:25 »

Not bothered about lowering, and don't want it all stiff and harsh. Its trying to find that balance of magic carpet ride with nice handling.  :y
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #53 on: 13 January 2018, 20:20:27 »

Not bothered about lowering, and don't want it all stiff and harsh. Its trying to find that balance of magic carpet ride with nice handling.  :y
I suggest a small Peugeot, lovely and wafty.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #54 on: 13 January 2018, 21:01:22 »

 I have one of those grabber type things on a flexi shaft. Worked first time for me when I dropped the bolt into the leg. magnet one just sticks to everything but the bolt

Keith ABS
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #55 on: 13 January 2018, 21:20:06 »

Not bothered about lowering, and don't want it all stiff and harsh. Its trying to find that balance of magic carpet ride with nice handling.  :y
I suggest a small  Peugeot big Citroen, lovely and wafty.


Fixed that for you :y


Big Citroens are the only French car worth considering. Of course, nobody with any sense goes ahead and actually buys one ;D
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #56 on: 13 January 2018, 21:28:07 »

Not bothered about lowering, and don't want it all stiff and harsh. Its trying to find that balance of magic carpet ride with nice handling.  :y
I suggest a small  Peugeot big Citroen, lovely and wafty.


Fixed that for you :y


Big Citroens are the only French car worth considering. Of course, nobody with any sense goes ahead and actually buys one ;D
Yes, but Albs has his heart set on a 200cc, so Iím trying to make her him feel better about it.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #57 on: 13 January 2018, 21:47:26 »

The car in question is this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-207-cc-2008-1-6-Blue-Spares-or-Repairs/112739561372?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I wouldn't be seen dead in it, but it will be worth 2 grand in the spring. Will need a head,cambelt kit and water pump.
Second hand heads seem to be rare and expensive though, so I think I will pass.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #58 on: 21 January 2018, 22:36:48 »

  Hi Malc, I can help with the following;-
2d, 2e, 2g, 3b, 4c, 4d, 5, 6c
Pm me and let me know

Keith ABS

Keith,
I've found what's wrong with the Wiper assembly (Item 5/5a on my list) - photos to follow but it's FUBAR. I'll need to replace the whole wiper linkage and motor. Have you got? and how much, and any chance you can get it here by next weekend? I can pay by bank transfer or Paypal.

Better news is I managed to locate the missing suspension bolt, then manouvre it into a position where I could lasso it with some copper wire and finally drag it kicking and screaming out from the sub-frame. What a ball ache.

Cheers
Malcolm
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #59 on: 26 January 2018, 00:49:54 »

1) Front Suspension. The handling is frankly shocking - steering wheel adjusts the angle of lean rather than the direction of travel.
1a) New Shocks. Will ask at Vx, but even if not NLS I suspect price will shove me firmly down the Bilstein B4 route.
1b) New Springs. If not Vx then what's recommended? I suppose I could use LC spec springs :-)
1c) New Top Mounts. I think these are standard Carlton so I should have these in the stash.

Sooo. Here we go - This is what I ended up with :



1)   SACHS-312294      SHOCK ABSORBER
2)    QH-QCS6061      SPRING, 164MM DIAMETER, 14.25MM THICKNESS, 380MM LENGTH 
3)   VX-90236601      RING,DAMPER,FRONT SPRING,LOWER
4)   VX-90217221      RING,DAMPER,FRONT SPRING,UPPER
5)   VX-90223655      SEAT,FRONT SPRING,UPPER - POWDER COATED
6)   VX-9184897       BUMPER,SHOCK ABSORBER (USED WITH LOWERED SPORTS CHASSIS)
7)   VX-90125125      BOOT,RUBBER,PISTON
8 )   FEBI-03374      (VX-90288206) SUPPORT,SHOCK ABSORBER
9)   (VX-90121275)      BEARING,BALL - (SUPPLIED WITH FEBI SUPPORT - INA MARKINGS)
10)   VX-90251921       STOP,UPPER (REUSED)      
11)   VX-90223654      STOP,LOWER (REUSED)
12)   (VX-90393422)      STOP,LOWER (ABS LOTUS CARLTON SPEC)
13)   VX-11096171 x2      SCREW, HEX HD M12x1.5x55, STEERING KNUCKLE TO SHOCK ABSORBER STRUT
14)   VX-11094488 x2      NUT, HEX, M12
15)   (VX-90251985) X2   SUPPLIED WITH SACHS/BOGE STRUT
16)   MEYLE-6160605575HD   DROP LINK

Comments
1) I decided to go with the Sachs Shock absorbers since the belief in these parts is that they are the OEM equipment and hence will produce the closest to standard ride. The other option I considered was the Bilstein B4. However, even though I ordered the Sachs part, what actually came was the Boge 32.M84.F. No Idea if these are better, worse or the same.

2) Spring choice was my biggest problem. All the aftermarket ones list different lengths for left and right sides of the car. This may be correct for LHD (European) cars, but RHD UK spec cars were different to their continental cousins and used the same springs on both sides. The springs that came off my car had Brown-Brown paint marks both sides, were 360 mm long and made from 14.5mm wire . Haynes (3510 section 10.1) claims Brown-Brown were fitted to 6 cylinder cars with air con from 1998 (so sounds correct), and are 373mm long with a 24 N/mm spring rate.

The Quinten Hazel listings on eBay list the QCS6061 as being made from 14.25mm diameter wire and 380mm long. Other options are available, but they seem to use 14mm wire and are 360mm long. Thinner wire will almost certainly produce a softer spring, and I certainly don't want it any softer than it already is. So I plumped for the QCS6061.

When they arrived I measured them. They were 373mm long (not 380mm - but 373 is what Haynes says Brown-Brown should be) and were made from 14.5mm wire. The discrepancy in the wire diameter may be due to the paint/powder coating, but since they actually measured the same as the springs I'd taken off then I'll go with it. They're 13mm longer than the springs that came off - perhaps the old springs have sagged - they are 17 years old after all. 

12) On the Lotus Carlton, the designers changed the lower stop washer from the standard 90223654 to a larger diameter one, 90393422. This stiffens up the top mount a lot. However, the standard 90393422's have a habit of punching through, so thicker versions are available to Autobahnstormers members. That's what I'm using here.

Anyhow, throw it all together and you end up with this :



Hopefully that's Section 1 - The front suspension - complete.
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #60 on: 26 January 2018, 02:12:48 »

You'll presumably be removing #10 prior to fitting...
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #61 on: 27 January 2018, 20:57:49 »

2) Steering/front end
2a) Re-furbed wishbones (I'll probably strip and powder coat some old ones).
2b) Poly front bushes - From?
2c) VX verticals
2d) New ball joints

For the Wishbones, I ended up with this:



1)   VX-90576788/789      STEERING ARM, (STRIPPED & POWDER COATED)
2)   VX-9156605      BUSH,DAMPER,REAR
3)   PFF80-902      (VX-90576775) POWERFLEX POLY FRONT SUSPENSION BUSH
4)   PFF80-902      POWERFLEX POLY FRONT SUSPENSION BUSH CENTRE TUBE
5)   VX-90538056 X2      NUT,HEX.,M14,CONTROL ARM TO CROSSMEMBER
6)   VX-90468501       SCREW,HEX.HD.,M14 X 1.5 X 77,CONTROL ARM TO CROSSMEMBER
7)   VX-90468500      SCREW,HEX.HD.,M14 X 1.5 X 88,CONTROL ARM TO CROSSMEMBER
8 )   VX-90468928      BUMPER,STOP,FRONT SUSPENSION ARM (NLS) (REUSED)
9)   VX-90542995      BALL JOINT,ASSY,FRONT SUSPENSION ARM (NLS) (REUSED)
10)   VX-11100041 X3       SCREW,HEX.HD.,M8 X 25 FLANGE      
11)   VX-11094436 X3      NUT, M8 X 25 FLANGE

Comments
1) I stripped down a used pair of genuine Vauxhall front wishbones and then got them powder coated. Removing the vertical bushes was straightforward, but I had to use a 10-Ton press to shift the horizontal bushes. When these finally let go they go with a bang.

Drilling off the rivets holding the ball joints was fairly easy - drill through first with a 4mm pilot drill, then repeat with an 8mm drill. Finally chizel off the now much weakened head, and clean out the holes. The genuine VX wishbones have flat topped rivets with a dimple in the middle which aides the centering of the drill. All the aftermarket wishbones I've got have dome topped rivets and these may be more of a challenge to remove. 

3&4) Come as part of the Powerflex Poly Bush Kit

8 ) Is the bumper bush which stops the track rods hitting the wishbone on steering full lock. These are NLS from VX, but are available from OCP. They are pressed into the wishbone, but there isn't enough room to get in behind them to press them out again. However, if you're careful you can chisel/tease them out without too much damage and then re-use them. They contain plastic/rubber parts so have to be removed to powder coat the arms.

9) The ball-joints all appear servicable to start with and I managed to remove them without wrecking anything. So I wire brushed down the metal parts and gave them a quick coat of black paint. They appear to be NLS from VX and I didn't try to source aftermarket ones, but they may be available.

10) The VX bolts hadn't arrived when I took the rest of the photos, so I just used some generic bolts at the time. The correct bolts turned up this morning so I swapped them over before fitting the wishbones to the car. This is what they look like.


Reassembly is fairly straightforward, and once it's all together you end up with this :



The Poly bushes are a very snug fit into the metal brackets on the car's front sub-frame, and need some 'persuasion' to get them in (aka a hammer and a block of wood). Hopefully that's the front suspension complete.
« Last Edit: 27 January 2018, 20:59:21 by LC0112G »
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Nick W

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #62 on: 27 January 2018, 21:13:41 »

10 ton press?


I use a bearing puller set, some 12mm studding, two 19mm spanners(one of them a ratchet):





This was about 30 seconds later:





This would allow easy bush changes without removing the wishbone from the car, or to install new non-poly bushes, but I think you have to be some sort of masochist to do either.
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #63 on: 27 January 2018, 21:42:04 »

10 ton press?


I use a bearing puller set, some 12mm studding, two 19mm spanners(one of them a ratchet):





This was about 30 seconds later:





This would allow easy bush changes without removing the wishbone from the car, or to install new non-poly bushes, but I think you have to be some sort of masochist to do either.

Yes I saw your widget in another thread. I've got a 12 ton workshop hydraulic press, and a bearing press set like this:


I find it easier to use the hydraulic press, and use the bits from the bearing press set as mandrels, although obviously the thing you're pressing has to be off the car.

I practiced on a couple of old wishbones before attacking the ones I was intending to re-use. The verticals all come out relatively easily (less than 2 tons). The horizontals were much tougher. One let go at about 5 tons, the next at about 8 tons. The two arms I re-used took about 10 tons and let go with a bang.

I also attempted to get the bushes out of a brand new ATP arm I'd got as a £70 set from eBay - and failed - The gauge on the press read 15 tons when I chickened out. I also tried using the big G clamp thing from the bearing puller set. Couldn't get that to work -The G clamp was being held in a vice and the amount of torque I was applying to the screw was threatening to rip the vice off the work bench (three foot breaker bar and 18 stone of me swinging on the end of it).

So I'd say the force required to shift the horizontal bush sleeve is variable. 
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #64 on: 28 January 2018, 10:30:14 »

Before fitting wishbone, remove poly, wipe of the grease powerflex supply, and smother the poly and centre metal insert with as much proper copperslip as you can.  Else in 6 months or less, it will have an annoying squeak.

(ie this is what you have already done, ignore me :y)


Proper copperslip = Molyslip Coppaslip, about £10 a tin.  This stuff is way superior to the usual junk that factors sell, which tends to wash away quickly.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #65 on: 28 January 2018, 12:03:00 »

Before fitting wishbone, remove poly, wipe of the grease powerflex supply, and smother the poly and centre metal insert with as much proper copperslip as you can.  Else in 6 months or less, it will have an annoying squeak.

(ie this is what you have already done, ignore me :y)


Proper copperslip = Molyslip Coppaslip, about £10 a tin.  This stuff is way superior to the usual junk that factors sell, which tends to wash away quickly.

Surely the copper slip would eventually dry out then, so you would get the squeak regardless?
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #66 on: 28 January 2018, 13:47:06 »

Before fitting wishbone, remove poly, wipe of the grease powerflex supply, and smother the poly and centre metal insert with as much proper copperslip as you can.  Else in 6 months or less, it will have an annoying squeak.

(ie this is what you have already done, ignore me :y)


Proper copperslip = Molyslip Coppaslip, about £10 a tin.  This stuff is way superior to the usual junk that factors sell, which tends to wash away quickly.

Surely the copper slip would eventually dry out then, so you would get the squeak regardless?
You clearly haven't used the proper stuff ;). You won't find it in Halfords or ECP ;)

Have you ever heard any of my Omegas with a poly squeak? Both of them only got greased on fitting, and TBE again following a wishbone change. They never even got regreased properly every time the vertical bush gets changed (about every 3yrs as a guess).
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #67 on: 04 February 2018, 20:18:11 »

5) Windscreen wipers
5a) Replace wiper arm assembly - excessive travel and play in sweep. Scrapyard.

So, wiper blade assembly. Once I'd worked out there are actually 4 screws securing the assembly in (one squirreled away fixing it to the bulkhead :-[) It came out quite easily. The problem was then obvious :




Not sure how the arm can snap, but it has. So off to eBay for a replacement and I ended up with one of these from "omegaspareparts" (anyone here?).



Moved the motor and all the linkages over and jobs a good-un. Tick that box,
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LC0112G

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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #68 on: 04 February 2018, 21:08:53 »

6) Engine : Would like to rebuild my old engine, but need a replacement crank so that can wait till summer. In the mean time, need to fix the misfire. Have got oil in the drivers side plug wells, so...
6a) New cam cover seals
6b) New spark plugs all round
6c) Possibly new ignition leads if 6a/6b don't cure it
6d) Possibly new ignition coil pack if 6a/6b/6c don't cure it.

First thing to do was strip down the inlet manifolds and remove the cam covers. Not difficult, just a PITA kind of job - particularly the passenger side. After removal I ended up with this :

Drivers side:


Passenger side :


Interesting that the design of my two cylinder heads is different - I guess one has been replaced at some stage. On the drivers side the spark plugs are isolated into their own compartments so that if one floods it doesn't sink the whole ship. The passenger side is sort of open. Anyhow, 5 of the 6 sparkplugs swimming in oil probably isn't a good thing :-(

I syringed out as much of the oil as I could, then removed the spark plugs and cleaned the whole lot as best I could with carb cleaner and isopropanol. New spark plugs and cam cover seals and throw it all back together.

I thoroughly cleaned all the ignition leads and continuity checked them. All good so reuse. Then next day (after waiting for the sealant to cure) fire it up again.

Cobblers - still running lumpy. Broke out the neon inline ignition checkers, and worked through the plugs one by one.  Good news was no oil on the ends of any of the spark plug leads, so even though the engine had only been run for perhaps 10 minutes I may have succeeded in sealing it up (for now).

Bad news was no spark on Cyl #1. So took it all apart again and re-checked lead #1 for continuity. Still Ok, so extracted the ignition coil pack (and yes whoever put it there still wants a good kicking). Ah-ha...



The Cyl #1/4 coil has split/burst and is rusting away nicely. So ordered a new one and fitted it over the weekend. Reassembly is the reverse process to removal, with exactly the same expletives issued in more or less the same places.

Turn the key...and...it's immediately obvious the misfire has gone. Wohoooo. So 6a, 6b and 6d achieved, and the car is now running properly again. Wonder how long the cam seals will last this time  ::)
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #69 on: 04 February 2018, 23:06:10 »

My heads are the similar in separating the plug holes; one of yours
 may indeed have been changed, unlikely as it seems.



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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #70 on: 05 February 2018, 08:39:31 »

The first of my pics is of the passenger side head of my 2.5, and shows separated plug hole chambers, unlike the OP's head. Strange.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #71 on: 05 February 2018, 09:12:49 »

The head casting changed to provide mounting holes for the coil-per-plug coil packs as seen on the 2.6 / 3.2 somewhat before that style of coil pack was fitted universally. This is what blocks the passages between the plug wells.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #72 on: 05 February 2018, 09:43:59 »

The head casting changed to provide mounting holes for the coil-per-plug coil packs as seen on the 2.6 / 3.2 somewhat before that style of coil pack was fitted universally. This is what blocks the passages between the plug wells.
Thank you. All is explained. And OP's car was assembled during the transition and got got a new style RH head and an old style LH head. The cam cover gasket did not need changing. The 2.6/3.2 heads also lack the secondary air injection plumbing, don't they? EGR too, I suppose.
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Re: My jobs to do this winter/spring
« Reply #73 on: 05 February 2018, 09:56:20 »

The head casting changed to provide mounting holes for the coil-per-plug coil packs as seen on the 2.6 / 3.2 somewhat before that style of coil pack was fitted universally. This is what blocks the passages between the plug wells.
Thank you. All is explained. And OP's car was assembled during the transition and got got a new style RH head and an old style LH head. The cam cover gasket did not need changing. The 2.6/3.2 heads also lack the secondary air injection plumbing, don't they? EGR too, I suppose.

It's not the original engine. The original is under the bench in the man-cave awaiting a bottom end re-build after a blocked oil strainer about 5 years ago. It has both heads 'compartmentalised'.

This engine was purchased from someone on here as a temporary replacement (5 years ago  ;D) It's a much earlier engine number with zero history. I suspect it was originally fitted with two old style heads but has been rebuilt for some reason with one new style head.
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