Omega Help Area > Omega General Help
Swirl valves
firstomega:
Hello Everyone...turning to you for help please. My beloved Omega, 2.2cc DTI Saloon year 2001...started to run so badly it became impossible to drive. The Engine Management Light came on and I seeded to have lost all compression and couldnt get any speed up even with my foot to the accelerator floor. So limping back I asked a mechanic to come round (not my mechanic but a friends as I was staying with her for a few days). Anyway he put his diagnostic reader on it and then messed about cleaning a little sticky oil from top of the edges of the EGR pipe and opened up the air inlet pipe and kept telling me the problem was not enough diesel in my car. Highly suspicious of his diagnosis I duly bought and put diesel in but it made no difference.Then he insisted that my petrol gauge was faulty which it had never been before. Finally he told me the car was fixed so I paid him (a lot of money) and he left. I drove off to go home but it broke down exact same as before after about 5 hilly miles so I limped back to my friends and called mechanic back. A few days later he arrived and re fixed the car. In short he came back five times and after each time announced my car fixed. I drove one minute or less each time and the EML came back on and exact same symptoms. Finally many days later and on his fifth fix he said it is okay and I was able to drive well back home 50 miles. Next day it drove okay and I did about 20 miles in total. Next day it starts to run rough again. The mechanic had told me that it was the swirl valve that was at fault and this had shown on his diagnostic. He said to fix it finally he had waggled the little lever where the swirl valves are and that had freed them from carbon. He told me I needed to replace a swirl valve. He said that if it ran rough after a cold night that I should waggle that swirl valve a bit till the new valve was replaced. Anyway so now miles away from this mechanic it is now when idling showing the revs going up and down from 200 revs to 1000 revs and back down and up again. It had never done this before. EML is on again sometimes but when I get into fourth or fifth it is running okay. Anyway I spoke to my own mechanic who I trust a lot and he told me the swirl valve is clogging up. He tried to tell me on the phone how to find this lever to jiggle the valve but I cant find it. He also said that he thinks the swirl valves are a nuisance and suggests that when I get to him he will disconnect them in such a way that they remain open but the EML will not know this so wont show up but the EML will come up for all other problems in the future (which is what I want). My mechanic I trust but he is 50 miles from me so we have made an arrangement for him to do my car when I am near him which is in a month. In the meantime he said it wont do any harm to drive my car as it is. I am concerned the plastic top on the swirl valve wont break off and drop in the engine and break it completely which is something I have read on google. Basically can anyone give me an idea how to find the swirl valve lever to waggle it as I cannot feel it with my hand despite lots of trying and also what are your opinions on disconnecting the swirl valves completely. Are they really a nuisance or are they necessary? And any other thoughts on this please. By the way my mechanic looked up the friends mechanic and has found out he is supposed to be a ditch digger and not a mechanic but that is by the by......any and all help much appreciated. I already paid a lot to the last mechanic who doesnt seem to have helped at all and I very much would like to keep my Omega going as I love it so much....it is my first Omega and I really hope it is just this swirl valve problem? Any ideas anyone please? Do I need to replace these swirl valves which my mechanic says will be costly or is detaching them the best route to take? Thank you everyone....
Chazza12:
https://youtu.be/minIa_3_CRQ this may help you
and this is fitting them from new. https://youtu.be/Dcg2HtO-hfI covers most engines, well helps you understand how they work
ajsphead:
DTi is a bit more basic than the later CDTi models. It doesn't have a swirl valve so you'll be struggling to find one and any associated levers.
EGR valve is more likely but I suggest you get a code reader (cheaper than your mechanic) plug it in and see what it says. In the meantime, you could take apart the re-breathing and induction systems and give it all a jolly good clean. It doesn't even have a throttle body, so no need to worry about that either. Just steer clear of the MAF sensor.
Marks DTM Calib:
It does have swirl valves......as does the 2.0 Dti.
The only fix is to remove the inlet manifold and clean them, and the inlet ports on the heads, of crudd......and there will be a LOT!
Messing with the actuator level will do nothing.
ajsphead:
Sorry, momentarily muddled with a different car. Swirl flaps in the DTI rarely give any trouble but if they are filthy to the point where they don't work then the rest of the system will be pretty horrendous and the EGR is likely to not work properly either.
Give yourself a day and be prepared to get very dirty. Fiddling with the actuators will have no effect at all. Even if you don't have the tools then buying a manual and the tools and doing it yourself will still be a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic to tell you nothing and do marginally less.
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