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[terry paget]

In my 2.2 MOT exhaust manifold failure tester advised imbalanced handbrake with excess lever travel. I have adjusted it at the wheels, tried to adjust it at single cable end, but it's very rusty and hard to turn the nut. I am not sure whether I am turning the nut or twisting the cable. I suppose I need a new lever end cable. Any tips? 

[dave the builder]

can you get small mole grips in to hold the short cable ?
I'd have thought ,a local motor factor could probably have you a short cable ,same day /next day

[Doctor Gollum]

Read the guide, follow it and report back

Incidentally, a new cable is £30 and a doddle to fit from a pit or ramp

[terry paget]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

[BazaJT]

There is a you tube clip[can't do links]showing how you can use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone on rusty nuts/bolts and it actually works.

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

Terry, do yourself a favour and stop making life difficult.

Fitting a new cable and following the adjustment guide will take less time than making the existing rusty and stretched cable work properly.

Similarly, cut the drop links off and fit new. Even £5 ones will last long enough to make the next MoT. Again not worth messing around with. 

[Nick W]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

Terry, do yourself a favour and stop making life difficult.

Fitting a new cable and following the adjustment guide will take less time than making the existing rusty and stretched cable work properly.

Similarly, cut the drop links off and fit new. Even £5 ones will last long enough to make the next MoT. Again not worth messing around with. 

That.


You're going to really struggle 'cleaning up' the threads with the cable fitted above the exhausts, and it's not worth putting it back when a new one is about £25.


As for the droplinks, if the nuts don't undo FIRST TIME, then do us all a favour, adopt a professional approach and cut the bloody things off. They are not worth spending any effort on.

[biggriffin]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

Terry, do yourself a favour and stop making life difficult.

Fitting a new cable and following the adjustment guide will take less time than making the existing rusty and stretched cable work properly.

Similarly, cut the drop links off and fit new. Even £5 ones will last long enough to make the next MoT. Again not worth messing around with. 

.

∆∆∆∆∆this.

Stop continually trying to bodge, and save 10p, fit a new one and save time, because it will only need doing again next mot..

[terry paget]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

Terry, do yourself a favour and stop making life difficult.

Fitting a new cable and following the adjustment guide will take less time than making the existing rusty and stretched cable work properly.

Similarly, cut the drop links off and fit new. Even £5 ones will last long enough to make the next MoT. Again not worth messing around with. 

OK. You say the front cable is available from Vx dealers at £30, great, and swopping it simple. I could not see a forum guide for it, and did not know if changing it was easy. I have changed a couple of wheel end cables, and it was not too difficult.-

[terry paget]

Thanks for advice, gents. It may be I can get hold of the cable end with a mole wrench and run a tap up it to clean it. Failing that, I could  cut it and replace it somehow. As you say, my pit makes it a much easier task. Main job at the moment is to get and install the new exhaust manifold and get it through its MOT.
I had hoped to change the drop links too (another advisory) but those threads are rusty too.

Terry, do yourself a favour and stop making life difficult.

Fitting a new cable and following the adjustment guide will take less time than making the existing rusty and stretched cable work properly.

Similarly, cut the drop links off and fit new. Even £5 ones will last long enough to make the next MoT. Again not worth messing around with. 

That.


You're going to really struggle 'cleaning up' the threads with the cable fitted above the exhausts, and it's not worth putting it back when a new one is about £25.


As for the droplinks, if the nuts don't undo FIRST TIME, then do us all a favour, adopt a professional approach and cut the bloody things off. They are not worth spending any effort on.

Cutting off the lower end of the drop link looks easy enough, the upper looks trickier, access tight. Should I use a hacksaw, or airline cutting disc?

[neil74]

Once you've finished your handbrake you can do mine as its not a bit of use to me at the moment..

[Doctor Gollum]

Re drop links, lop off the bottom nuts, then apply full lock and lop off the top one

Use weapon of choice... Personally 1/2" socket of suitable size and a breaker bar having first fitted a thin spanner to the flats.

Hand brake front adjuster should not need replacing. Although the nut(s)* will need to be undone to replace the rear cable bar.

* be either a single nyloc nut or two standard nuts...

[Nick W]

Access is so tight that a cordless 4.5" angle grinder easily does the job.


I brought up the price of the cable(which has increased since I bought mine 4 years ago), but what makes you think it came from Vauxhall?

[biggriffin]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

[Alnico Blue]

Never had to cut off drop links even when rusty.  Soak thread/nut in penetrating fluid the day before.  Fit a spanner to the flat section to hold /stop spinning   . . use a socket & bar to shift it, then socket & ratchet to fully remove   .  .simple 

But probably quicker to cut them off   

[tunnie]

Soak the cable adjuster in plusgas, leave it for a day or two 

[terry paget]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

[TheBoy]

I paid around £15 for a cable for the Silver Bullet a couple of years back. No idea what brand it was, and cared even less.

As Marks DTM says, you will need to sort out the adjuster at handbrake end, as this is NOT part of the handbrake cable.  Is this the car the exhaust needs replacing on, as not having exhaust in way would make it do-able. If the actual handbrake cable is OK, no need to replace, obviously.


As to droplinks, I have *NEVER* had to cut one off before, and usually find the hardest, most time consuming part is finding the right size spanners.  But I can see the appeal in cutting them off if they've seized

[terry paget]

Access is so tight that a cordless 4.5" angle grinder easily does the job.


I brought up the price of the cable(which has increased since I bought mine 4 years ago), but what makes you think it came from Vauxhall?

A 4.5" angle grinder sounds like the right tool. My 2" air line angle grinder is too small, and my mains 9" angle ghrinder is too big.  My cut off tool does not seem up to the job. Tool Station do a mains angle grinder  for £27.98, souds favourite. I have changed the right hand drop link with spanners, but the left hand is near the wishbone height sensor, don't want to break that.

[biggriffin]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

Use this one then
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-Handbrake-Cable-Rear-2-0-2-0D-94-to-01-Hand-Brake-Parking-QH/232590729076?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20161006002618%26meid%3Df33d4e5f46204d05bda7b314a2c2be89%26pid%3D100694%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D302274413957%26itm%3D232590729076&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598

[terry paget]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

By actuator I imagine you mean the scissors arrangement that spreads the shoes, with a mechanical advantage of about 4:1. Yes, I agree, I have never stripped this car's handbrakes down, and suppose I shall have to soon.
On this car the priority is to change the exhaust manifold and get it throught its MOT test. I am just getting down some of the advisories while the manifold arrives.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You are still going to have to sort the cable at the adjuster end as the threaded section is not part of the handbrake cable.

Plus an imbalance is pretty much always a seized/stiff actuator in the hub.

By actuator I imagine you mean the scissors arrangement that spreads the shoes, with a mechanical advantage of about 4:1. Yes, I agree, I have never stripped this car's handbrakes down, and suppose I shall have to soon.
On this car the priority is to change the exhaust manifold and get it throught its MOT test. I am just getting down some of the advisories while the manifold arrives.

Exactly that.

Assuming there is some slack in the handbrake cable with the handbrake released then the cable won't need any level of urgent adjustment.

So simply following the rear handbrake service guide should see things sorted 

[cam.in.head]

What he said
There is only one handbrake cable as such which goes as you know from one rear wheel to the lever adjustment rod and then back to the other wheel.the threaded bar is part of the handbrake lever assembly .you may find as soon as you have adjusted each wheel up that it does not actually need touching.if you realy need to clean up the threads it’s position behind the exhaust shield makes it difficult to get a die in but you may have success with a self locking nut(preferably metal squash type rather than nylon)with a slot sawn into it to act as a kind of die/cleaner.
When you actually o/haul the brake mechanism and get it nice and free it should adjust up to stiff and back to free easily(i usually go back 3 teeth myself )
Remember also that both sides must have the external pull-off spring fitted otherwise the wheel won’t snip free until you have backed it off too much!
Also whilst you are under there just make sure the handbrake cable near the wheels has not started to pull through the body hangers.they are only wound around the cable and can open up.

[terry paget]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

[Marks DTM Calib]

I use the ring end of a combination spanner to compress the spring and a set of snipe nose pliers to pull and rotate the pin, works ok for me. 

[terry paget]

I use the ring end of a combination spanner to compress the spring and a set of snipe nose pliers to pull and rotate the pin, works ok for me. 

Thanks - as in the guide. I have done half a dozen handbrake overhauls without trouble, but for some reason I am struggling with the steady springs this time. I have got one in with the help of my son, I am sure tomorrow we shall do the other.  I had adjusted  both handbrakes at the wheels before the MOT test, so, as you say, fault must be in the scissors unit. On dismantling I found it rusted solid, got it out after a struggle, and shall now clean it up and reassemble.

I wish Opel would not use so much Loctite on the brake caliper screws, makes them so hard to remove!

[Nick W]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

It's a knack. Some pliers with sharp grips to hold the retainer while you push it over the pin and rotate it.
It's much easier when you can push the back of the pin, but that's not an option on the Omega.

[terry paget]

I have stripped the right hand hand brake, freed the scissors movement and am reassembling. I am struggling to replace the anti rattle springs. Has anyone any tips?

It's a knack. Some pliers with sharp grips to hold the retainer while you push it over the pin and rotate it.
It's much easier when you can push the back of the pin, but that's not an option on the Omega.

Thanks. Clearly needs the right pair of pliers. I assume you do it with the pliers through the large hole in the hub.

[terry paget]

Here goes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302274413957?chn=ps&adgroupid=52130532935&rlsatarget=pla-411617453900&abcId=1133946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113619878&poi=&googleloc=9046208&device=m&campaignid=1057748120&crdt=0&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F302274413957%25253Fchn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D302274413957%2526targetid%253D411617453900%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9046208%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1057748120%2526adgroupid%253D52130532935%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-411617453900%2526abcId%253D1133946%2526merchantid%253D113619878%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI1PfV9pmW2wIVTbTtCh1R5w38EAQYASABEgKIpfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1538036416105%2526rvr_ts%253D817081b81630a860cc45b7b4ffe87273

Thanks. Those are all rear cables. The one I want to replace is the front one - the one from the handbrake ending in the long threaded bit which goes through the balancing bar pulling the rear to the rear cables.

Use this one then
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-Handbrake-Cable-Rear-2-0-2-0D-94-to-01-Hand-Brake-Parking-QH/232590729076?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20161006002618%26meid%3Df33d4e5f46204d05bda7b314a2c2be89%26pid%3D100694%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D302274413957%26itm%3D232590729076&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598

Thanks. That one again is the pair of cables from the lever base to the wheels. My problem is that the cable length adjuster is rusty making it hard to adjust. I am calling it a cable; it may just be a wire from the lever. I must investigate further. I am just passing the time getting the advisories down while the exhaust manifold arrives.
I have a new rear cable set in stock. I bought it when my tester warned me that next time he would fail my car when the cable endlows gasket failed. It has failed on 6 Omegas, but he has failed none yet.

[terry paget]

My thanks to Fuse19 and NickW for tips. In fact I used a method I used on Senators and earlier Omegas. I fitted the spring and cap with the brake shoe to the side of the hub. I did the left hand pin (fixed behind) holding cap and spring ring end of a combination spanner while my son turned the pin head. The right hand pin, which can move backwards, was trickier.
I found an old brake repair kit dating back to Senator days, containing spare pins, springs and caps.

I glued cap to spring with instant adhesive, placed brake shoe over pin to side of the hub, using a 7mm socket pushed the spring and cap down over pin, turned the socket, and cap engaged on end of pin. Went on a treat. I suspect the different spring may have helped.

[terry paget]

Thia car eventually passed its MOT with the handbrake bodged. Its stablemate 2.2 failed, after the tester attacked it with a 2' prybar. Stripping it for spares, I removed the handbrake, in case the rusty adjuster still troubles me. Here it is, in fact that thread is on a rod attached to the handbrake lever.

[annihilator]

Of course it's attached to the handbrake lever,how else do you think it would work.The lack of knowledge and misinformation in this thread from so called omega experts is really quite comical 
If anyone does need a handbrake cable they are currently £6 on amazon prime.

[terry paget]

Of course it's attached to the handbrake lever,how else do you think it would work.The lack of knowledge and misinformation in this thread from so called omega experts is really quite comical 
If anyone does need a handbrake cable they are currently £6 on amazon prime.

Crushed again. I merely wondered which assembly I needed to replace the adjuster rod - turned out to be the whole handbrake.
Couldn't find your £6 handbrake cable, worth buying as a spare at that price. A joy of running a popular mass produced car is spares are available and cheap. I wonder what an Aston Martin handbrake cable costs?

[annihilator]

Here you go 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Triscan-8140-24107-Cable-parking/dp/B00CFF7YFW

[Andy A]

Here you go 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Triscan-8140-24107-Cable-parking/dp/B00CFF7YFW

I was just about to fit a Pagid handbrake cable from ECP and both cables are the same length.

The Amazon brake cable measurement are stating that they are a different for each cable. What is the correct length on each side for the handbrake cable for a 2.2i 2003 Omega please?

[annihilator]

Ignore the description they are all the same 

[Andy A]

Ignore the description they are all the same 

Do you mean that all the models of Omega are all use the same brake cable or do you mean the both sides of the cable are the same length?

Thanks

[Doctor Gollum]

Both

There is a bit of variation depending how they are measured, but fundamentally, the wheels are equidistant from the centre line, which by no coincidence is the position of the handbrake lever

[Nick W]

Both

There is a bit of variation depending how they are measured, but fundamentally, the wheels are equidistant from the centre line, which by no coincidence is the position of the handbrake lever

And you adjust each side separately, so it doesn't matter