Best way to test the vacuum system is with a vacuum gauge. It should read at least 25 inches. Flick / wobble all the rubber connectors. Any drop in the vacuum reading when you disturb a rubber connector means its split or perished. The U shaped vacuum bridge at the back of the head in particular suffers from the heat and perishes or collapses, which is critical because it supplies everything other than the brake servo and causes all sorts of nasties.
The turbo is a variable geometry unit, so it doesn't need a wastegate. The device the vacuum pipe feeds is to adjust the vanes. With vacuum applied the vanes are fully extended, This is the normal operating condition at idle. When the boost sensor towards the back of the inlet manifold senses the boost approaching 2 bar, the vacuum is cut off, the vanes retract and boost is controlled.
Also, in the event of the ECU (or EDC) picking up a critical malfunction, limp mode is activated, one feature of this is that the boost solenoid is deactivated, the turbo actuator gets no vacuum so boost is inhibited.
Are you getting vacuum to the turbo actuator at idle? You should see the actuator pull towards the drivers side of the car upon starting the engine?