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[elvin315]

Here's something I found on the PowerFlex site. Could this be used as a substitute for the damned Rear/Vertical Bushing? It's a Heim Joint end of sorts. They make it for the Cadillac BLS. Might be the answer for us.

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Rear+Upper+Arm+Outer+Bush/1974.html

[chrisgixer]

Hi Elvin
Yeah I've been in contact with Powerflex a year or so ago. Main problem seems to be the omega has a 14mm bolt hole. Almost all of there ball joint type rearward bushes are for much more popular front wheel drive cars with a 12mm bolt hole.

With the size and weight of the omega I'm not sure I fancy fitting a smaller bolt, especially the way some members wang these cars about.

Meyle web site lists the p no. And dimensions of the oe rubber rearward bush
614 035 0010
Height 46
Inner diameter 14
Outer diameter 49

The only bush I can see that (Meyle) they make, while cross referencing sizes, that comes close is Corsa c that is also 46mm high, but the outer diameter is way too big at 60mm with a 12mm bolt hole.

Unfortunately the omega rearward bush does not cross reference with any other vehicle, the hope being that a more popular car might have a poly bush in production, like the BMW fronts.

Also, the amount of vertical travel on some of the more basic designs, like golf iirc, means there's also a chance of the ball popping out of the bush, so a metal case type is much preferred I guess. If only a suitable size could be found.

I haven't checked their web site for a few months now, so they may have released some new products recently that might work.

[elvin315]

I neither have the equipment nor the skill to do this but has anyone given thought to welding a strip of steel around the outer edge of the wishbone? It would need to be an equivalent gauge and be welded all around the part of the wishbone the bushing sits in, not just at its end. It shouldn't be any wider than the wishbone's existing flange as to avoid interfering with the chassis when pivoting. This would maybe eliminate the flex imparted to the wishbone and focus it at the bushing where it belongs. You can see below where the reinforcement should go. Just a thought in case that bushing I suggested doesn't work out.

[chrisgixer]

I have a selection of wishbones here, and some are much better made than others, in that gm bones have a jigsaw/or dove tail type lock in the ends of the ring to join the circular strip that forms the housing/holds the bush in, where as others have no attempt to join that section at all.

Generally speaking, non of the bones are welded around the complete circumference in the area around the bush housing. So a solid lump poly bush is always going to stress the arm.

To answer your question, yes. Al brought me a set of bones to weld up, it wasn't too successful due to inexperience with welding and a faulty welder, but the idea was to strengthen the welds where Razzo's broke.

However, personally, having seen where these bones bend in an axle end on impact with a kerb, I'm quite certain that strengthening the welds around the bush would transfer the flex to this crumple zone. The arm will snap elsewhere IMO. Specifically the thin area about an inch away from the edge of the rear bush.

Although that area could be strengthened, I guess.


Re previous post on poly cased bushes. The height of the body of the bush is also a limiting factor as pivoting might see it collide with the subframe.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Looking at the meat on those alternative bushes, I dont see drilling them out to 14mm being a big issue.

[chrisgixer]

Even though the wall of the spacer is wasted?

[05omegav6]

See reply #18 re welding...

And replies #41/42 for a working bush

Looking at the link, that Cadillac bush is only 47mm in diameter, so is 2mm too small

[Marks DTM Calib]

Even though the wall of the spacer is wasted?

Yes, more than enough meat and surface area there. 

[chrisgixer]

See reply #18 re welding...

And replies #41/42 for a working bush

Looking at the link, that Cadillac bush is only 47mm in diameter, so is 2mm too small

Could have a metal band pressed in around it. But bolt size and depth of the metal body on full tilt are more of an issue.

I don't suppose there's any dimensions available? As I rekon by the time that wasted spacer is drilled out to 14mm the thin end will be drilled away to nout, personally. As that looks less than 1mm at the thin end, compared to 3 or 4mm at the widest.

[05omegav6]

Chris, if you click the link and the download the fitting instructions, there's a clear picture of it assembled... drilling it out is the least of the concerns

[biggriffin]

What about a rose-joint and put it into a poly-sleeve..

[05omegav6]

What about a rose-joint and put it into a poly-sleeve..

It needs to prevent vertical movement of the arm over the bush, whilst allowing the arm clearance to pivot around the axis of the front bush, no mean feat

[Marks DTM Calib]

See reply #18 re welding...

And replies #41/42 for a working bush

Looking at the link, that Cadillac bush is only 47mm in diameter, so is 2mm too small

Could have a metal band pressed in around it. But bolt size and depth of the metal body on full tilt are more of an issue.

I don't suppose there's any dimensions available? As I rekon by the time that wasted spacer is drilled out to 14mm the thin end will be drilled away to nout, personally. As that looks less than 1mm at the thin end, compared to 3 or 4mm at the widest.

And?

So you lose 1-2mm off the length, no big deal.

[chrisgixer]

See reply #18 re welding...

And replies #41/42 for a working bush

Looking at the link, that Cadillac bush is only 47mm in diameter, so is 2mm too small

Could have a metal band pressed in around it. But bolt size and depth of the metal body on full tilt are more of an issue.

I don't suppose there's any dimensions available? As I rekon by the time that wasted spacer is drilled out to 14mm the thin end will be drilled away to nout, personally. As that looks less than 1mm at the thin end, compared to 3 or 4mm at the widest.

And?

So you lose 1-2mm off the length, no big deal.

If it clears the body, and the body doesn't clout the subframe as the wish bone tilts, then yes, no big deal at all.

The spacers are that shape to for clearance IMO.

Don't get me wrong, I hope it works, but.....

[aaronjb]

Slap the centre in the lathe, bore to the right diameter, then turn a collar for the outside. Job done, bish bash bosh.