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[joff]

Glow plugs, ok but it's not cold outside so that should not happen, used to have that on an old Cav but only in cold weather. I wonder it the timing is just a little out, but I still think there is an air leak

[firemoth]

It could be glow plugs. Lower power output when warmer possibly equating to next to none but still OK when full if they're naffed. Timing was something I was thinking too. Explains it being noisy too as if its slightly advanced, but then I found out it's on a chain which apparently never needs changing so how could the timing jump out? If it jumped a tooth surely I'd have more problems

[joff]

     Correct timing is on a chain, but how long have you had this car? If the other owner has been trying to fix the same fault and has had the cam out for what ever reason!!! Then the timing could be out, as if you follow the guide I put up they don't use locking pins and it is very easy to have the timing out, as the cam chain cog is bolted to the cam shaft without any key way if you don't lock engine at TDC together with the fuel pump and cam shaft you are asking for trouble.

     It's always best to check timing after having the top end apart, it does not take long to do.

1. Put engine to TDC, mark on crank pulley about 1o'clock
2. Take cover off fuel pump ( six screws front right on engine, you may have to take aux belt tensioner off to get to it)
3. Remove crank sensor (just above sump on N/S of engine)
4. Remove cam cover and and remove vac pump to check cam position correct.

Fuel pump has a locking pin hole at about 1 o'clock when at TDC and all should line up, and if you use a mirror and torch you can check the crank is in correct position as there is a locking pin hole in crank that you can see when sensor removed,

[firemoth]

Good news! Did the ramp thing again but on a slight hill too so back end really was up. Car started mon the button! So I pretty much know it's a fuel going back issue. Quickfix, primer bulb on fuel line after filter. Will that work?

[joff]

I fitted one after filter on the brothers Elite (always best to fit before filter). It should work as there is a non return valve in the bulb, so until you open the system (change filter) the fuel should stay. Complete fix is renew seals remember fuel line bore is 10mm

[firemoth]

Long awaited update. Car has since been replaced for a 7 seater (gutted!) And for various reasons, car has pretty much been sat there. But I made some time for tinkering. Cut into the fuel pipe which runs across the top of the engine. 10mm primer bulb was too small so got a 12mm. This is too big. Can't find an 11mm and tried securing the 10mm tightly with jubilee clips but doesn't seal. So if anyone knows where I can get an 11mm one....

Anyway, I've managed to persuade the 12mm on enough for testing purposes, primed the system up, and heard dripping. Turns out the injector leak off pipe from the front cylinder injector was loose and weeping. Pushed in, felt it click, and all seems well. Started fine, tried again after 4 hours, started on first turn. This was on Sunday. Not tried since as work away so will see if it starts on Friday when I get home. Fingers crossed!

Once all fixed it's time to sell :-(  need to be quick though as tax is up at end of this month and mot expires 14th October....

[4x4]

Common fault on the dti,best to change all of them as they fail and cause starting issues like you had 

[firemoth]

It hadn't failed, just popped off. Felt it click into place so I'm happy it's good enough.

[firemoth]

Just to update, after leaving it a week, other than a flat battery, it fired up straight away using jump leads. So fueling issue has gone 😀 just need to figure out how I'm going to get a 12mm primer bulb into an 11mm plasticy pipe......  Then get car put back together, cleaned up in and out, and its ready for the market. Might get it MOT'd first as I'm sure no mot will hurt it's value more than a test fee and maybe the odd fix. Although it could well fly through