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Thanks to TB for the thread move Yes solid rear discs on mine[weren't the vented rears only on the 3.2 and possibly 2.6?] Must admit I've not yet delved too deeply into this so it could be the slider pins,thanks for the suggestion and also dimensions.

If its the 2.6 and Facelift I assume its Fly by wire (as opposed to older cable cruise control on my 2.5 pre-facelift).

Could have been a electrical gremlin switching it off ? or iffy brake pedal switch which also turns off cruise when brakes pressed ?

Just a thought.

Andy,

....
Changing the oil+filter is interesting,  if car isn't high enough you can't drop undertray flap down enough,  .....

you need a Pela oil-sucker-outerer 

 I'm of the old skool,, undo sump plug, and make a mess on the floor as the tray is positioned wrong,

I've a Pela because one of my Smarts doesn't have a sump drain plug, but I do remember having a car where the under tray fouled the floor before it came off.

I have the same for the F-type, it actually has a metal tube inside the oil filler which passes down to the base of the sump by the drain hole to suck the oil through:



It is by far the easiest car I have ever changed oil and filter on 

The Insignificant engine is a pita as the filter is at the back right-hand corner of the engine and officially requires a special funnel to get the oil to drain cleanly when the filter is removed... It's almost a subframe out job*. Sucking the oil out doesn't correct the stupid design.

It's not quite that bad, but the filter cap is buried in the depths of Narnia.

,,

 Remove front wheel, get a 1L oil bottle cut the front out, wedge under filter housing, undo filter, all drops into said bottle, then wiggle it out, without spilling any

Hi Guys!
Today i had a little wtf moment with my omega. B2 Sedan 2.6 V6 manual elegance. I had my cruise control at steady 70km/h, and i accelerated the car via the cruise control button. I held the button for around to get 85-90km/h and then i heard some noise from the back, then the TC icon appeared, and the rpm is dropped down around the idle revs but a little higher around 800rpm, and then i tried to accelerate but there was no response from the engine, i floored it but nothing happened. After that, i turned off the engine, and started, and its working just fine ever since. I tried to reconstruct the scenario but i couldnt, i will try again after work... Whats can be wrong with the car? Maybe the throttle body?
Thanks

ps: this is my first post, sry for broken english solutions xd

Or a weak pump, or fuel pressure regulator...

FUel pump was changed by previous owner. I changed fuel filter nothing worked.
Also I've noticed that when I cant start engine Sport light on the dash starts blinkink (I've googled it its gearbox some error)
For now I dont have "My Naff Code Reader" to read faults but maybe there is some kind of sensor which checks rpm?

Spec for a Golf is circa 0.5

The small, 2-pin sensor at the rear of the autobox. Please can someone tell me what job it does, and the consequence of it not being plugged in?

I’ve heard it called a “speed sensor” but I’m guessing that relates to sending the speed of the gearbox shaft to the TCM for shifting purposes, as I’m pretty sure the speedo is fed from the ABS system?

Finally - does anyone have or please know where I’m could buy a plug for the speed sensor and a short length of wiring? Maybe someone has an old loom in the shed? I can’t find one anyone and the plug on my loom is damaged.

Thanks chaps

Many thanks

Have you checked that the slider pins on the front calipers are free to move? From your description it might be that one side is seized. If so, buff the pins and rubber boots and re-grease. Or replace with new pins and rubber boots. And clean the bores.

The rear caliper will be ATE, Ø42mm pistons for vented rear discs and Ø40mm for solid rear discs.
The fronts with Ø296mm discs are TRW which is now a subsidiary of ZF. Seem to have been manufactured by Lucas Girling under license. Piston Ø57mm.

also .... 1 deg of neg camber doesnt sound too bad  anyway. what is the reccomended spec ( and what is the other side ? )