Topic: Tracking (Read 6255 times)

gbh · « **on:** 18 February 2020, 20:18:30 »

Hi again,well car went through MOT and one of the front tyres was an advisory as it was quite bald on the inner rim driver's side.So today I got a new tyre fitted and saw an offer at National Tyres for half price tracking so I popped in to find out more.Well it was half price on the front but the back needed doing as well so it would be £45 so I said carry on.When I saw the gas bottles come out I thought he's struggling and soon he came in to say the back was seized and he couldn't do them without breaking them.So on to the front and gas bottles,hammers,chisel etc and a lot of time he managed to move them a bit and earned his £15 but it seems therefore it all needs replacing.Firstly is it a DIY job? Any hints or tips? Parts required? and then after done back and get it all tracked better as the car wants to go left.As always thanks in advance!!!!!

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #1 on:** 18 February 2020, 20:23:33 »

You'd have better spent the money on lunch.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #2 on:** 18 February 2020, 20:49:14 »

New rear track conrol arms needed. Around £100 a pair. Removing them is just a matter of undoing the nuts and splitting the ball joints.
Adjust the new ones to the same length as the old ones, fit them, then go and have four wheel alignment done to the specs given on the forum rather than "in the green" on a hunter alignment machine.
Best to check front wishbones are all in good nick ( which they rarely are) before doing this otherwise your throwing good money after bad.

gbh · « **Reply #3 on:** 18 February 2020, 22:58:07 »

Sounds like i'm better off just scuffing the front tyre out and replacing from time to time

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 February 2020, 00:22:36 »

Your call. If you want a car that is really nice to drive then follow the above. If its just a car to get around in and no and budget is tight, just chuck cheap tyres on when needed, but drive carefully. Especially in the wet.

gbh · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 February 2020, 09:00:33 »

As the car was under 50,000 miles when I bought it about 3 years ago I'm trying to look after it and so if I can do any repairs then I'm happy to try.I'm fairly handy and the back track rods look doable if I can find the parts and same for the front.As for the special four wheel alignment that seems to be a specialist job not available in most places but if you know of such a place in the Gloucester area I'd be happy to get it done there.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #6 on:** 19 February 2020, 16:39:58 »

A lot of members have thought it worth the trip to wheels in motion in Chesham, who originally came up with the best settings for the Omega. Im fortunate in having a place 10 miles away in Witham who have a hunter alignment machine and are happy to adjust everything to the settings I give them.

Bigron · « **Reply #7 on:** 19 February 2020, 17:42:28 »

Albs. I've put my WIM settings in a safe place; could you remind me of them please, for the next time I need my tracking/alignment done? I will try not to lose them again!

Ron.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 February 2020, 18:30:19 »

Mine are also in a safe place Ron, but Im pretty sure I remember where it is. I will dig them out in the near future and PM you.

Bigron · « **Reply #9 on:** 19 February 2020, 18:54:39 »

Merci beaucoup, mon ami!

Ron.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #10 on:** 19 February 2020, 19:10:14 »

No need for that kind of language Ron. It brings tears to my ears.

Bigron · « **Reply #11 on:** 19 February 2020, 19:15:59 »

Bitte vergib mir, wenn ich etwas beleidigt habe, Albs - ist Deutsch besser?

Herr Ron.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #12 on:** 19 February 2020, 21:36:54 »

Slightly better.

ronnyd · « **Reply #13 on:** 19 February 2020, 22:29:04 »

Bloody foreigners

gbh · « **Reply #14 on:** 20 February 2020, 10:06:27 »

Any chance of a copy of those settings as getting to WIM isn't going to happen at over a hundred miles away Thanks for the Information

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #15 on:** 20 February 2020, 13:09:39 »

It's a trip worth making. But if you search the forum you will find two things...

The settings you seek and a local ish recommended place. I'm sure RobG had a place of choice in Bristol.

I could tell you off the top of my head, but you, and others really should learn to work for it

Entwood · « **Reply #16 on:** 20 February 2020, 14:55:36 »

Don't worry about it ... will we all have this in a few years time .....

https://www.bbc.com/sport/formula1/51576106

"The so-called 'dual-axis steering' system allows the driver to alter the 'toe-in' of the front wheels - or their angle to the longitudinal axis of the car - while driving."

Could make life a tad interesting .......

gbh · « **Reply #17 on:** 20 February 2020, 19:37:55 »

Lemforder or Skf or other recommendations

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #18 on:** 20 February 2020, 19:46:24 »

Put a pair of Lemforder rear track control arms on mine a couple of years ago and they seemed good quality. Paid around £100 for them from cp4l.

gbh · « **Reply #19 on:** 20 February 2020, 20:18:44 »

Thank you and the fronts are called track/steering rod assembly and if my wishbone rubbers are still good then leave if not then replace bushes am I getting there

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #20 on:** 20 February 2020, 21:05:45 »

Yep, although the wishbones bushes are almost always knackered. Best approach is to get hold of an old pair of wishbones and fit GM rear bushes to them and polybushes to replace front bushes. Takes a bit of time to get it all sorted, but the results are well worth it.

Migv6 le Frog Fan · « **Reply #21 on:** 20 February 2020, 21:07:22 »

I would add, its always worth taking the front / rear control arms off the car and see if you can unseize them with a lot of heat applied to them.Preferably an oxy acetylene torch.

gbh · « **Reply #22 on:** 22 February 2020, 11:04:41 »

The guy used that front and back on mine,I suppose one could soak them in wd40 or such like overnight see if they would free up

biggriffin · « **Reply #23 on:** 22 February 2020, 11:25:54 »

Best way to free rear track arms, Blue- spanner. Then cool in waste oil, re-assmble, with lots of anti-seize of choice,, If funds allow, fit new wishbones,with poly bushes, new rear dounuts, new front top mounts n bearings, then get it correctly aligned,..

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #24 on:** 22 February 2020, 12:42:16 »

And front shocks as they're probably toast and you'll only be doing it all again...

This is probably the single most expensive part of longer term Omega ownership, and generally only fully appreciated after you have bought the car for pennies.

Rear shocks have zero effect on the geometry, but common sense is to do it all whilst you're bothering.

gbh · « **Reply #25 on:** 25 February 2020, 22:35:36 »

Wow that's a hell of a list and pretty off putting!!!

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #26 on:** 25 February 2020, 22:41:39 »

It's what you signed up for when you bought an Omega...

Suspension overhaul is about a grand once you've rebuilt it, fitted new tyres and got the geometry done accurately.

And needs doing every 80-120k miles depending on how the car is used.

Add in crank sensor, radiator, fuel pump, coil packs, camcover and HBVs, ant that is pretty much everything that goes wrong with them, so no, not really damming, but it is a big ticket item on a cheap car...

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #27 on:** 25 February 2020, 23:04:30 »

Oh yes, nearly forgot, rust

polilara · « **Reply #28 on:** 26 February 2020, 05:47:52 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 25 February 2020, 22:41:39

It's what you signed up for when you bought an Omega...

Suspension overhaul is about a grand once you've rebuilt it, fitted new tyres and got the geometry done accurately.

And needs doing every 80-120k miles depending on how the car is used.

Add in crank sensor, radiator, fuel pump, coil packs, camcover and HBVs, ant that is pretty much everything that goes wrong with them, so no, not really damming, but it is a big ticket item on a cheap car...

Agreed, done everything this (+front suspension) except fuel pump. Should I do it beforehand? Where is it and is it difficult to change. Would like to add Heater Matrix to the list...

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #29 on:** 26 February 2020, 08:54:46 »

Wait until it fails. It lives in the fuel tank.

polilara · « **Reply #30 on:** 26 February 2020, 09:03:33 »

...I wish it a long life!

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #31 on:** 26 February 2020, 09:12:18 »

180-200k km depending on fuel habits

polilara · « **Reply #32 on:** 26 February 2020, 10:11:09 »

280 000 km behind, do you think not worth doing now? I know it's original as this car was almost new when I got it 16 years ago.

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #33 on:** 26 February 2020, 10:39:51 »

Wait for it to fail but don't be surprised when it does

polilara · « **Reply #34 on:** 26 February 2020, 10:47:55 »

How does it appear? Total sudden stop in the middle of the night, or something else, poor starting etc?

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #35 on:** 26 February 2020, 10:54:05 »

Poor starting and/or an unwillingness to rev. Eventually it will cut out, a good whack on the tank will get it running long enough to get it off the road, but that's the point where you would like to have one in stock

Symptoms generally start as a lack of fuel. Mostly because that's essentially the issue.

polilara · « **Reply #36 on:** 26 February 2020, 11:04:14 »

Good to know as I now and then have to have unusual long "starting", have to crank it two or three times 10 sec per time. while usually 2-3 seconds just once is enough. Thought first it is crank sensor but no codes. It is only now and then but perhaps an indication. So in the tank and operated form boot?

TheBoy · « **Reply #37 on:** 26 February 2020, 18:17:54 »

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 26 February 2020, 09:12:18

180-200k km depending on fuel habits

I've never had to replace an Omega one. But all mine have been saloons, not the estates with the compromises that brings to the tank, giving the pump a hard time.

gbh · « **Reply #38 on:** 26 February 2020, 22:41:46 »

Are there no preferred track rods front and back as I've seen Moog,SKF,Lemforder and i'm sure others, apart from price how's the quality

Doctor Gollum · « **Reply #39 on:** 27 February 2020, 07:47:51 »

You can get both wishbones, drop links and track rods as a set from £70... Or you can spend £270 on a genuine wishbone.

gbh · « **Reply #40 on:** 27 February 2020, 22:15:51 »

£70 sounds a lot better than £270 any links to where from? Thanks

Bigron · « **Reply #41 on:** 28 February 2020, 00:34:36 »

I got my set from ATP about 2 years ago, fitted by Saint Serek, and still fine. I confirm the price at £70 delivered.

Ron.

polilara · « **Reply #42 on:** 28 February 2020, 11:25:46 »

Mee too, same package but bad luck with one wishbone. After one year rear bushing of right side wishbone was that loose that I changed new Lemförder both sides. Track rods ok so far.

terry paget · « **Reply #43 on:** 28 February 2020, 14:57:20 »

I've used them for years on all my Omegas, no complaints, great value for money.

polilara · « **Reply #44 on:** 28 February 2020, 16:37:24 »

Sure, I just had bad luck. For me a big job so just once would be enough.

addy · « **Reply #45 on:** 29 February 2020, 11:11:23 »

ATP wishbones EBAY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-ARM-WISHBONE-FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-OPEL-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B/381465196951

Complete kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-PCS-WISHBONE-COMPLETE-TRACK-CONTROL-ARMS-SET-FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-OPEL-OMEGA-B-NEW-/323442758205?hash=item4b4eb0d23d

I have been looking at getting just the ATP and maybe fit Polybushes and lemforder back bush into the arms. So can use the car while getting the replacements sorted?

That way don't have to worry about the tightening up of the wishbone, if using Poly bushes if I understand. Hopefully someone will correct me if wrong.

gbh · « **Reply #46 on:** 03 March 2020, 09:07:22 »

Thanks for all the replies

News:

Author Topic: Tracking (Read 6255 times)