Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy A on 05 July 2018, 10:48:45
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On the drivers side there is a brown plastic cover, how vital is it?
Mine has just broke off.
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I know there is a brown one which clips around the lock mech on mine.
Mine was shall we say damaged when I changed my solidoid and its been sat in the glovebox ever since with now problems ;)
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I think it's there to deflect drips from the lock mechanism so you might find it seizes up. At least give it a good greasing on reassembly.
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I think it's there to deflect drips from the lock mechanism so you might find it seizes up. At least give it a good greasing on reassembly.
Oh it got well and truly blathered in grease on mine ;)
Along with every other place I thought water could go including the bottom of the door ;D
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I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.
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I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.
You might be right there :-\
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I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.
This... :y
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The cover can stay off.
Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.
I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.
Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.
Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
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Haynes. ;)
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Haynes. ;)
Al, did they follow the same colour code from the pfl to the fl?
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I had that same problem when i first got my 2.6
I thought it would be one of the micro switches at the barrel
but my door was dented ,so i replaced the whole door
and the pin switch for the courtesy lights by the hinge,problem solved ;D
does the door solenoid work both ways when tested (in and out ) :-\
plus you could just try the pin switch
the door opeen (so the pin switch makes ground would give the same fault result
(doors locking but opening again strait away )
or any other pin switch ,boot,bonnet,all doors :-\
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I had that same problem when i first got my 2.6
I thought it would be one of the micro switches at the barrel
but my door was dented ,so i replaced the whole door
and the pin switch for the courtesy lights by the hinge,problem solved ;D
does the door solenoid work both ways when tested (in and out ) :-\
plus you could just try the pin switch
the door opeen (so the pin switch makes ground would give the same fault result
(doors locking but opening again strait away )
or any other pin switch ,boot,bonnet,all doors :-\
Yes, connected a 9V battery on motor terminals both ways and all worked fine.
Just checked the pin switch and it turns the courtesy light on and off.
I'll check the bonnet and boot later when I have more time and get back to you.
Thanks
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The cover can stay off.
Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.
I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.
Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.
Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.
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The cover can stay off.
Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.
I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.
Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.
Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.
I've got 2 new switches here, I'll put them in later and see if it fixes the problem. The funny thing is the actuator started working again yesterday all day without a problem. Prior to that it was dead for days. So that rules out my broken wire theory.
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The cover can stay off.
Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.
I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.
Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.
Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.
I've got 2 new switches here, I'll put them in later and see if it fixes the problem. The funny thing is the actuator started working again yesterday all day without a problem. Prior to that it was dead for days. So that rules out my broken wire theory.
Not really ,the broken wire theory is valid ,because it can make and brake contact randomly ,particularly if broke in the door shut loom , opening the door moves the broken wire , but the micro switches at the barrel are easy to replace (relatively speaking)
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The cover can stay off.
Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.
I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.
Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.
Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.
I've got 2 new switches here, I'll put them in later and see if it fixes the problem. The funny thing is the actuator started working again yesterday all day without a problem. Prior to that it was dead for days. So that rules out my broken wire theory.
Not really ,the broken wire theory is valid ,because it can make and brake contact randomly ,particularly if broke in the door shut loom , opening the door moves the broken wire , but the micro switches at the barrel are easy to replace (relatively speaking)
Do I have this correct.
If I open the door (separate the broken wire) then if I put a screw driver bar bit into the latch so the system thinks the door has been closed and press the door switch light button in and lock and unlock with the remote control it should in theory if its a broken wire, with the door fully open not lock and unlock hopefully if its a broken wire?
I will put new switches in this afternoon once the sun moves round. Just to rule the switches out.
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Door contact switch only does interior lights.
Checking and repairing broken wire on the Omega front door is best done with the door removed as access to the loom in the flexi cover is shite to diabolical with the door in place... There's barely enough room to get the plug undone :-\
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Do I have this correct.
If I open the door (separate the broken wire) then if I put a screw driver bar bit into the latch so the system thinks the door has been closed and press the door switch light button in and lock and unlock with the remote control it should in theory if its a broken wire, with the door fully open not lock and unlock hopefully if its a broken wire?
I will put new switches in this afternoon once the sun moves round. Just to rule the switches out.
No, opening the door may or may not separate the broken wire (IF it is a broken wire that is the problem) there are 36 :o wires in the loom ,in the rubber boot between the door loom plug and going into the A pillar
I know this because i have a section of that loom from driver's door and just counted them ;D
please be aware ,the door contains an air bag so care should be taken
Door contact switch only does interior lights.
Checking and repairing broken wire on the Omega front door is best done with the door removed as access to the loom in the flexi cover is shite to diabolical with the door in place... There's barely enough room to get the plug undone :-\
surely the pin switch in the door shuts also communicate with alarm ,which must communicate with central locking relay ,and therefore c/l motors :-\ by communicate i mean ,probably just receive a ground signal
removing the door , if that becomes necessary ,
I undid the check strap bolt and removed it ,
un-plugged the loom from the door ,
then gripped the hinge pins with mole grips, gave them a couple of slaps with a hammer to pull them out
worked a treat ,if you don't have h/p removal tool
but the door weighs a zillion kilo :P
so if you can ,have blocks of wood and some carpet under the door to take the weight :y
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Alarm switch is on the door lock ;)
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Alarm switch is on the door lock ;)
ah , i see , thank you sir
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Door contact switch only does interior lights.
Checking and repairing broken wire on the Omega front door is best done with the door removed as access to the loom in the flexi cover is shite to diabolical with the door in place... There's barely enough room to get the plug undone :-\
Do you really want to remove the whole door to check for a broken wire? Really :o ?
I agree that the plug is difficult to undo but you've got to do that to get the door off. and I would be disconnecting the wiring, door stay and anything else in the door jam before even thinking about touching the hinge pins. I've got a door wiring loom to change on my car; the central locking intermittently operates erratically when the driver's door is moved, and so does the speaker(it's blown the original). This has got to be a wiring issue.
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I have fat fingers... :D
When I changed a front door loom on my plod, I wish I had taken the door off to do it. Access is nothing like some other cars that are prone to breakages ;)
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But it'll be the switches in the door motor, so lets not get overly excited.
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But it'll be the switches in the door motor, so lets not get overly excited.
Hope so :y
saves the cost of hiring an Iron Fairy to lift the door ;D
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But it'll be the switches in the door motor, so lets not get overly excited.
Changed them, then had another problem a day later.
I would unlock the door with the remote and it would instantly re-lock itself. That went on for two days. I had to pull the door handle before it would re-lock, to get in and now for the last few days the problem has stopped by itself.
Can the central locking get confused and relearn?
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Linkages possibly out of sorts following motor change :-\
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Linkages possibly out of sorts following motor change :-\
Its a strange one alright.