Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 27 December 2017, 11:38:50
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Father Christmas got me a very nice amp for the omega's system i'm building.
Normaly when i've fitted this sort of thing, the main power supply comes from the battery with a inline fuse fitted.
Okay, the question is .............. is there heavy duty 12 volt busbar behind the dash that I can tap off to save me running a whopping big cable through the bulkhead of the car OR is it a case of tough titty :)
The amp is a Focal Auditor 4 x 70 watts ( 4 ohms) RMS so its not exactly lightweight ;D
TIA :-*
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Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay, same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.
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Think you're going to have to go, thro,the bulkhead into engine bay, same way as the constabluary,use to wire up all the gubbins.
Yeh, I was fearing that :(
Oh well, its glove box out time again :(
Cheers Griff :y
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The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).
Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it. ;)
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The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).
Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it. ;)
My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway :y
How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?
The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets :y
Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. :(
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The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).
Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it. ;)
My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway :y
How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?
The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets :y
Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. :(
did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,, :D :D :D please don't take it seriously, and flounce :-X
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If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket... :-\
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Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.
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The Amp is the heart of the Sound System in terms of Power Consumption and current drain, so needs to be run directly to the Battery using suitable power gauge cable and fuse (if not supplied).
Keep the Negative cable feed as short as possible (without it being coiled up) to a good clean Chassis / Earth point, also, unless instructed by the Amp Manufacture (for heat reasons), do not bolt to the Amp Chassis to the Car Chassis (Earth), use plastic / rubber grommets or a wooden baffle to secure it. ;)
My thoughts precisely Chris but I thought i'd pop the question anyway :y
How good a earth is the boot floor or am I better off running the neg behind the side panelling and drilling / bolting it to the framework ?
The unit comes with 2 piece plastic mounting grommets :y
Just popped into Halfrauds and relieved myself of 20 sheckles for one of there VIBE amp fitting kits.
Must say, i'm not a fan of anything audio wise that they sell but this kit seems pretty spot on even down to a LT trigger wire :y
Shame its only got 2 RCA leads in it so that's something else needed on the shopping list. :(
did yoo get some neons, and a jaunty angled baseball cap, init, for dem banging toons,,, :D :D :D please don't take it seriously, and flounce :-X
I'm that bad smell you can never get rid of ;D
I'll never leave .............. and that wasn't a challenge yeh bulling bastards ;D ;D
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If you have a pikey hook fitted, can you not use the feed for the van socket... :-\
Too lightweight in this case Al
The amp has 2 x 15 amp blade fuses for starters so i'm looking at 10 or 8 awg cable and a inline 40 amp HRC fuse if my Vodka / Guinness / Pear Cider / Whiskey / Black Russian fuelled brain is working correctly ;D ;D
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Best to install a suitably rated feed (will probably need to be 40+amps).
You can install an additional fuse in the Fusible link box that sits above the battery positive terminal, which makes a neat conversion.
Feed the wire through a hole poked in the big rubber grommet behind the cabin filter or on DBW cars you can put a grommet in the vacant hole that used to be used for the throttle cable.
About 7 metres of wire are required to get to the cubby hole in the rear IME.
Hoping to get away with 5 meters that came in the kit Kev but I will soon find out
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Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot :)
All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut :-\
I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................
Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside
Anybody help on this ?
Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp ;) :)
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Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot :)
All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut :-\
I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................
Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside
Anybody help on this ?
Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp ;) :)
Im in Brain Dead mode at the moment but isnt there a Colour Map of the Kick Panel Connector here on OOF somewhere (or maybe another Site :-\) that would help you?
Are you not running fresh Cable from the New Amp to each Speaker?
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Okay, now its dry and a little bit warmer, I thought i'd better get on with running all the cables for this little lot :)
All RCA's are in.
The 12 volt feed is in.
The amp LT trigger wire is in.
Just need to solder the new speaker cables into the exsisting loom.
I'm looking at soldering / heat shrinking the new cables at the point it travels up into the rubber conduit then into the doors.
Cables are laid in place, just need to find out which cables I need to cut :-\
I'm looking for the cable colours / idents for .....................
Front nearside
Rear nearside
Front offside
Rear offside
Anybody help on this ?
Kev, 5 metres JUST was enough from the battery area to the amp ;) :)
Im in Brain Dead mode at the moment but isnt there a Colour Map of the Kick Panel Connector here on OOF somewhere (or maybe another Site :-\) that would help you?
Are you not running fresh Cable from the New Amp to each Speaker?
I'll have a nosey in morning Chris but green / green with a white trace rings a bell.
Not sure if its the same for all 4 doors. Its been a while since I have been in there ;)
And yes, its fresh upgraded cable from the amp to the loom were it goes into the doors.
I'll see if I can get the new cable through the rubber conduit upto the cross over box that's cut into the back of the door cards.
If not i'll leave the last 2 foot of old cable in and solder the new stuff to it :-\
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If you can get the driver's kick panel connector from an old Bose loom it's plug and play.
EDIT: and you can connect all 4 speakers there and not have to fight getting cables into the doors.
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If you can get the driver's kick panel connector from an old Bose loom it's plug and play.
EDIT: and you can connect all 4 speakers there and not have to fight getting cables into the doors.
The back seat base and glove box is out.
All the 2 kick panels and all the side sill trim panels are off with the speaker cables already cut roughly to size Kev so trying to find the Bose loom isn't worth it now :(
As of 10 mins ago, i've been told that I have to rebuild the car enough to take the missus to work for 12:30 and its going to rain later ::)
'dangle berries' >:( >:(
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Tell her to walk. ;D...man needs time to carry out repairs ah :y
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Dangerous advice..... :o
Ron.
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I live "on the edge" ;D
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Nah, i'll take her ;D
She might be only 5ft 3 on a very tall day and 7 1/2 stone wet threw but she is a evil bugger when she starts ;D ;D
Well true to form, it started pishing it down so its a afternoon in the shed making a MDF frame / cover to give the amp some protection for when the dog or tools are in the back :y
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Pics?
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Pics?
What :o
Of our lass ? :-X ;D ;D
I'll take a few and stick them on here as it goes back together :y
Question ............ Where is the best (cheapest) place to get some gray carpet that is similar to the boot floor ?
Ebay or elsewhere ?
Need some to cover the mdf :-\
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Plenty of choice...
Starter for ten:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-SQM-CAMPER-VAN-CAMPERVAN-CARPET-LINING-TRIM-CARAVAN-TRUCK-COACH-BOAT-4X4-CAR/192358323451?hash=item2cc97314fb:g:xIcAAOSwU1FZ8Lar
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Plenty of choice...
Starter for ten:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-SQM-CAMPER-VAN-CAMPERVAN-CARPET-LINING-TRIM-CARAVAN-TRUCK-COACH-BOAT-4X4-CAR/192358323451?hash=item2cc97314fb:g:xIcAAOSwU1FZ8Lar
Cheers :y
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'dangle berries' to it >:(
There is no way on earth i'll get to the front door speaker looms without removing the dash which ain't happening so i'll leave the cables the same length and its off to the back of the head unit we go :(
Fingers crossed, it won't make much of a difference :-\
I need to get it back together today :(
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Bose connector in the driver's side kick panel gives access to all the speaker signals and it's easier to get to than the back of the head unit. ;)
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Bose connector in the driver's side kick panel gives access to all the speaker signals and it's easier to get to than the back of the head unit. ;)
Already managed to drag them around before I saw this Kev :(
Then again, mine started out as a Non Bose Ncdc 2013.
Would the connection have been there anyway ?
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Yep, all the speaker cables pass through there and there's a jumper connector where no Bose is fitted.
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Well it works :y
Its a bit quite but everything on the head unit needs to be setup again and everything on the amp is either turned down or off.
Must say even as it is, the sound is very smooth and detailed and that's with 13 years old Infinity components that have been in 4 different cars so the omens are good :y
I've plenty of pictures on the install and i'll get the lad to show me again how the fick you get them on here tomorrow :y
Thanks all :)
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Thanks to Lizzie, I now know how to stick pictures of all the work i've done :y
The amp and mdf box :y
Note that its the false floor that's wonky, NOT the box ;)
The box now has a mdf lid and is awaiting carpet ;)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/3xxx12max/IMG_1140.jpg)
The speaker and 12volt cable connections :y
(https://s26.postimg.cc/j6nuevxzt/IMG_1141.jpg)
The cable routing :y
(https://s26.postimg.cc/mq9s4svll/IMG_1143.jpg)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/bqokt87rd/IMG_1144.jpg)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/4apb7h22h/IMG_1145.jpg)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/4ngpdpa2h/IMG_1146.jpg)
The under the bonnet bit :y
Due to the very fine strands, the 12volt main feed's cable ends was solder tinned so they didn't break when tightened up in the fuse holder ;)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/fztavit21/IMG_1147.jpg)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/5pqvwdax5/IMG_1149.jpg)
Cable routing :y
(https://s26.postimg.cc/5083k1ko9/IMG_1150.jpg)
And the new DAB head unit :y
(https://s26.postimg.cc/o5bctu9mx/IMG_1153.jpg)
I've a few pictures of the rest of the install of the head units microphone / internal dab ariel somewhere ::) :-[
If there is enough interest, i'll do a forum guide showing the wiring conections ect :y
Just let us know :)