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[johnnydog]

I have now (hopefully!) traced how the water may have been getting over the rubber. Rain water from the gutter has been entering the underside of the metal trim sitting under the gutter in the door aperture as intended so that in theory it runs to the end of the trim by the A pillar with the help of the thin strip seal to keep it to the outer edge. At this point the A pillar is stepped, so that any water emerging at this point is kept to the hinge side rather than the rubber side and just runs off towards the bottom inside edge of the wing.
On mine, it seems that water was escaping from under the trim earlier than intended on the start of the downhill sweep (the part that runs adjacent to the edge of the windscreen). Due to the amount of water, it was then running vertically, over the rubber at 45 degrees, to the cabin side of the rubber, running down the inside edge of the rubber passing the end of the dashboard, and into the inner recess, where it collected in the bottom corner (by the 90 degree turn and the speaker) but now inside the recess where the edge of the footwell sill trim cover sits, it dripped down, either over or under the trim panel onto or under the carpet.
It still questions whether the door aperture seal to the door itself was not sealing well enough which allowed the water to pass between on its early exit from the trim under the roof gutter.
My car is always generally parked at home with the front end facing slightly downhill for what it is worth.
Hope all that makes sense!

[Doctor Gollum]

Check the paint behind the trim carefully.

The common rust spot on estates at the lower rear corner of the rear side window is caused by a combination of movement of the drain channel trim against the bodywork and a buildup of dirt and debris between the trim and the body, eventually rubbing the paint away and trapping moisture against bare metal...

At least you don't need to remove the door/window to get the door gutter trims off

[iansoutham]

It looks like it should just unscrew and tilt away from the gutter?

[Doctor Gollum]

It does, but on the estate you need to first remove the rear quarter glass... Which entails stripping half the interior...

[iansoutham]

Mine is front leak, not rear.

[Doctor Gollum]

Likewise Johnny's  I only mention the rear as the potential for corrosion damage behind the trim warrants proper investigation...

[iansoutham]

Likewise Johnny's  I only mention the rear as the potential for corrosion damage behind the trim warrants proper investigation...

Got you, understand now

[johnnydog]

Removal of the front section of the gutter trim is very easy - just remove the tiny cross headed screws, and ease it away a little from the body gently. The thin seal strip may have partially stuck, but once its free, the trim has to be moved forwards to clear the join between the two pieces above the black cover of the B pillar. The dirt needs cleaning from it at this point.
On mine, I noticied that in places the thin strip seal was its original thickness (approx 1mm), and in others virtually fully compressed. In order to keep any rain water to the outer side of the trim, , I ran some thin insulation tape either side of the seal to create a channel, then put some of my 'well chuffed with'  Adiseal in the channel above the seal strip, then smoothed it off. The result raised the strip seal about 0.5mm but took into account the compressed sections and would create hopefully a waterproof guide for the water to run it to the outer edge of the A pillar when running out from behind the trim. The 'new' seal doesn't need to be too thick or the trim won't sit properly. We will see......
The paintwork on the car under the trim was very good - some contact marks which I may put a dab of Supertrol onto, as well as the screw threads, before reassembly.

[Doctor Gollum]

As a precaution, the Supertrol is a good idea

The 'movement' in the trim is down to body flex, so any consequential wear will occur largely unnoticed...

[iansoutham]

Will look at all that this weekend hopefully, have a few idea depending on what I find....

Then all I need to do is sort out the rattle in the drivers door that has been there since I have had it (almost like a slightly loose door latch)

[Doctor Gollum]

Possibly a control rod not clipped in following a lock motor/regulator change

[johnnydog]

It also could be from the top corner of the door card near the push locking button. If the door card has been removed previously, the plastic retainer that clips into the door by the inside door glass rubber usually comes away from the inside of the door card and needs 'gorilla gluing' back in place. This causes an annoying rattling noise.
Easy way to tell is to just try to move the door card at the top rearmost corner. If it is loose, it needs repairing as above.

[iansoutham]

No, door cars was glued a few years ago. Rod is fine, it is more like the catch in the latch is worn as if you lean against the door it appears to stop. Adjusting the striker makes no difference

[johnnydog]

Going back to the topic of the water leak, I have applied some Sonax GummiPfleger rubber treatment the drivers doorseals. It is supposed to help protect, nourish and feed rubber seals to increase their suppleness, and help reduce leaks, squeaks and subsequent cracking. Has good reviews and isn't particularly expensive. Worth a try whilst I'm at it....

[iansoutham]

The Gummipfledge is very good at keeping seals supple and preventing noises (VX actually use it in Astra H folding tops seals as part of a TIS action). I have various tubes of it for different applications and normally apply to all door seals on my cars every couple of cleans and monthly during very cold weather as it helps prevent seals sticking in very cold weather.