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[dave.h]

Hi everyone.

The front of my car is like a bouncy castle on the road, up and down, up and down, it's like driving a boat.

Tested the bounce on the front and when I push down, it bounces about 3 or 4 times before it settles.

I am guessing shocks, but when looking I am a little confused when trying to source shock absorbers.

When I find them, it always says either "for cars with normal chassis" or "without levelling control"

As I have levelling control with the Xenons, is there a special front shock I need or do I just have normal shocks with a separate sensor?

Any help in finding the correct parts will be appreciated as it will save me cleaning vomit up every trip.

Thank you

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Shocks are very roughly the same, unless you've got self levelling rears or an MV6.

Xenon sensor attaches to the wishbone and isn't of any concern.

[Doctor Gollum]

You need a pair of shocks essentially all the same.

Normal chassis is for GLS, CD, CDX, Elite.

Lowered Sport Chassis is for Sport, MV6.

Sachs are original equipment, and you may consider fitting new top mounts whilst you are at it.

If you're also changing springs, then these are either Normal or LSC but also engine specific... 4pot petrol or everything else.

[dave.h]

Thanks folks - as ever, very good and competent advice and it is a great help and very much appreciated.

I will set about sorting the boat out and make it back into a car!

[Nick W]

If it's that bouncy, replacing the springs would be a good idea. The Omega is very sensitive to front suspension setup and wear which is why we recommend replacing all of the wear components at the same time: shocks, springs, topmounts, bearings, bumpstops and bushes. That's £150 per side in parts if you shop carefully.


You'll need robust, large spring compressors to do the work

[Enceladus]

The springs on the V6s seem to sag over time with the weight of the engine. So the ride height of the car is effectively lowered. So replacing the springs and the top mounts is a good idea. There's no additional labour, just the cost of the parts.

However if you disturb the front suspension you will also need to get the car correctly aligned by a shop with a pukka four wheel alignment machine. This will cost circa £80-£100. Trouble is that you need to identify somewhere that actually knows what they're doing. And you don't want the factory standard settings. You want the Opel rough road settings as used by Wheels in Motion.

The C**p F*t procedure of marking the strut camber position with a pointless pencil and guessing just won't work.

So it's a good idea to check and replace the wishbones, track rods, nearside steering idler, anti-roll drop links and the centre tie rods unless they're in good condition. Else you'll find yourself doing jobs you wished you'd done when you had the struts out. And repeated alignment costs, not to mention repeated replacement of the front tyres because the inboard tyre shoulders get worn out quickly.

[dave.h]

The springs on the V6s seem to sag over time with the weight of the engine. So the ride height of the car is effectively lowered. So replacing the springs and the top mounts is a good idea. There's no additional labour, just the cost of the parts.

However if you disturb the front suspension you will also need to get the car correctly aligned by a shop with a pukka four wheel alignment machine. This will cost circa £80-£100. Trouble is that you need to identify somewhere that actually knows what they're doing. And you don't want the factory standard settings. You want the Opel rough road settings as used by Wheels in Motion.

The C**p F*t procedure of marking the strut camber position with a pointless pencil and guessing just won't work.

So it's a good idea to check and replace the wishbones, track rods, nearside steering idler, anti-roll drop links and the centre tie rods unless they're in good condition. Else you'll find yourself doing jobs you wished you'd done when you had the struts out. And repeated alignment costs, not to mention repeated replacement of the front tyres because the inboard tyre shoulders get worn out quickly.

Food for thought, thank you.

I suspect I'd take it to Vauxhall for alignment, they should know what they're doing.

[Doctor Gollum]

 

[Nick W]

You'll be lucky to find a dealer with anyone who has worked on an Omega, let alone have any expertise.


There's nothing difficult about Omega alignment, the equipment is readily available; you only need to find someone who can use it intelligently. That includes knowing that the programmed specifications(from Vauxhall originally) are far too loose to be of use.


Anyone who refuses to adjust front camber that isnt what you ask for, should refund ANY money that you've paid them.


The driving difference between a setup that's OK and one that is spot-on is well worth the £100 it might have cost.

[dave.h]

The springs on the V6s seem to sag over time with the weight of the engine. So the ride height of the car is effectively lowered. So replacing the springs and the top mounts is a good idea. There's no additional labour, just the cost of the parts.

However if you disturb the front suspension you will also need to get the car correctly aligned by a shop with a pukka four wheel alignment machine. This will cost circa £80-£100. Trouble is that you need to identify somewhere that actually knows what they're doing. And you don't want the factory standard settings. You want the Opel rough road settings as used by Wheels in Motion.

The C**p F*t procedure of marking the strut camber position with a pointless pencil and guessing just won't work.

So it's a good idea to check and replace the wishbones, track rods, nearside steering idler, anti-roll drop links and the centre tie rods unless they're in good condition. Else you'll find yourself doing jobs you wished you'd done when you had the struts out. And repeated alignment costs, not to mention repeated replacement of the front tyres because the inboard tyre shoulders get worn out quickly.

Just realised that you mention the V6 - mine is a 2.2 4 Cylinder and am wondering if the comments and advice still stands, or whether it is specific to the V6?

[Doctor Gollum]

Nope, apart from spring rates, they're the same... 17+ years old

[dave.h]

Nope, apart from spring rates, they're the same... 17+ years old

Good to know for when I do it all....cheers :-)

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

I've got a pair of 30mm Eibach front lowering springs for a four pot if you fancy a small drop

[dave.h]

I've got a pair of 30mm Eibach front lowering springs for a four pot if you fancy a small drop

Tempting, but don't want to have to change the rears as well, and not sure I could stand the harsher ride......but tempting none the less....pm me the price and I will have a think......

[tigers_gonads]

I've got a pair of 30mm Eibach front lowering springs for a four pot if you fancy a small drop

Tempting, but don't want to have to change the rears as well, and not sure I could stand the harsher ride......but tempting none the less....pm me the price and I will have a think......

Just for info, I changed all 4 of my 165K springs last year for Eibachs.
Didn't really look any lower due to the old springs been shagged.
Yes its slightly harder but much better controlled over any bumps and when cornering 
Best thing I have ever done to the car in my honest opinion.

[Mutha Jugs n Speed]

Same here,Eibach springs and Bilstein B4 shocks.....yes slightly firmer,but handles better. Also Irmscher springs and B4's also a good combo....and for me the better