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[tango]

Re my last post regarding the o2 sensor
I’ve caged the o2 sensor and the problems still there
I was just wondering is it possible to plug the o2 sensors wrong
Ie sensor one into sensor 2 plug etc
If so would this cause more apparent issues
Or are the plugs different
I should’ve checked whilst I was under the car but it was a ball ache changing sensor 1 in bank 2

Also I did do a plug change but as the dealers were closed I purchased the plugs from a local shop
Only to find out when I got home they were the single electrode ones
And with the queuing system at the shop because of the Covid I couldn’t be asked to go back to the shop to change them as I only realised once the old ones were out
Would these single electrode plugs cause a misfire as the cat seems to be hunting a little at idle

[Enceladus]

You might need to clear the fault code to get the EML light to go off. Assuming the lambda problem is now fixed then the EML light should stay off. Else it will come back on when the engine gets hot.

Sensor 1 and sensor 2 have different cable lengths. On an automatic sensor 2 cable should be too short to fit as sensor 1 if routed as per the original. Won't swear to it but electrically they are probably the same.

What's the make and part number on the new plugs?

Properly gapped single pole plugs of the correct type and size should be OK, they just won't last as long as the preferred twin pole or the quad poles. They shouldn't cause a misfire. Misfires are usually caused by oil and/or water in the spark plug wells. Or a damaged or faulty ignition module. In any event I understand that dual fuel versions run on single pole plugs, albeit maybe with a slightly different gap.

[tango]

Spark plugs
Denso k20TT#4
4604#4
Resistor

That’s what it says on the box

[Enceladus]

Spark plugs
Denso k20TT#4
4604#4
Resistor

That’s what it says on the box

Would appear to be fine. Factory pre-set 1.0mm gap. I doubt if they're your issue.
Have you checked the plug wells on the offside bank?

[TheBoy]

What is the actual fault code, and what are the trim settings and MAF reading?

[Enceladus]

Suggest the topics be combined.
See here.

[tango]

Ok so I’ve managed to fix the misfire issue,This was due to A faulty connector wire on the coil.
However regarding the o2 sensor issues i swapped the connectors from sensor one to two and vice versa on bank 2.
The fault now is on sensor two bank 2
So I guess this means a wiring issue on that connector or loom
But it’s such pain to follow as I believe it goes to a connector in the fuse box near the battery.
Oh well at least the weathers good so more searching around with a meter.

[Doctor Gollum]

They're wired straight into the ecu plug

The loom plugs for sensor 1 naturally point backwards and the sensor 2 plugs point forwards and also to their respective sides.

However, it's possible to get them muddled up if the gear box has been out for any reason, so the best way to confirm is via the ecu pinouts.

Don’t forget though, that they share common power and ground

[cam.in.head]

am i reading this wrong ?
fault was originally sensor 1 bank 2 (p0150)
now after swapping its moved to  sensor 2 bank 1 ( p0156)?
so surely this proves simply that its the sensor ,not any wiring or connections elsewhere ?

[Enceladus]

Please clarify.
You started with a fault code for Bank-2/Sensor-1.
EML light came on.
Codes are for heater failure, P0150 & P0155.
You then plugged Bank-2/Sensor-1 into the Bank-2/Sensor-2 loom-side connector.
And vice-versa.
The same fault code now appears on Bank-2/Sensor-2.
IE the codes are now P0156 & P0161?
The original fault on Bank-2/Sensor-1 disappears.
Is all that correct?

Regardless of the physical port that the sensor is actually screwed into, the fault moves to where it's electrically connected to. Surely that implies that the fault lies with the sensor itself, its wiring tail or the connector on the end of the tail?.

If there were a fault with the loom between the ECU plug and the loom-side lambda connectors then surely the fault would still be reported as Bank-2/Sensor-1.

And to complicate this further. You told us earlier that you changed Bank-2/Sensor-1 for a new part. However the fault remained? But did you ever clear the fault codes?

And was it the old or this new sensor that you tried plugging into the Bank-2/Sensor-1 loom-side connector?

[tango]

Sorry for the confusion lol
So let me try to explain
Originally the fault was sensor 1 bank 2
So I changed this sensor to used one that I had
I cleared the fault with a code reader
The fault returned
So now ether both sensors are faulty or I have a wiring issue

I then plugged (Not removed the sensor , just swapped the plugs over )sensor one into where sensor 2 was plugged and vice versa, as both plugs are the same and have same colour wiring.
I only did this as whoever has worked on the car before has cable tied the wiring so it wasn’t routed properly so I wasn’t sure if this was the issue so it was going to be a try and test

Now that I’ve done that and cleared the codes
The eml came back back on but this time showing as sensor 2 faulty in bank 2
No fault showing for sensor 1 in bank 2

So I’m a bit confused, how does the ecu know which sensor is plugged into Which connector.
Or is it programmed to read them so it detects them automatically


But the fault is now on sensor 2
Wich would mean that particular plug is causing the issue otherwise why would it move the fault to sensor 2

Or could it be something else and I’m getting these faults show up

[tango]

I changed the obd reader from a Bluetooth phone  app type to a maxiscan So I might get better results
Currently I’ve got p0161 showing

[cam.in.head]

to me.if the fault now shows as sensor 2 it sounds like a faulty sensor.( inc replacement one)the code is for a heater fault which you can check on the sensor with a multimeter .
. ive just unplugged mine and checked for you. mine is 9.8 ohms across the two white wires .( give or take to allow for meter discrepancies )

[tango]

Ok I will check

[cam.in.head]

what did you find ?

[tango]

Long story lol
I measured the reading between the two white wires and it was zero
So it was buggered
Now coming to removing that o2 sensor it wasn’t budging
After fighting with it for ever lying under the car wasn’t the best position to apply some torque 
Drove to a local garage and they managed to take it off but the threads were destroyed as whoever put it on cross threaded it
I’ve ordered a lamda nut
Just waiting on that so can get it welded on and then hopefully put the Replacemnt sensor on
Not driving it now as it doesn’t sound very good with a hole in the exhaust
Will report back in a few days hopefully

[Nick W]

It probably wasn't cross-threaded, but just seized. It's a short, coarse thread(1.5mm) that probably only has about 3 threads engaged. It doesn't take much to ruin the threads when both parts are new

[Enceladus]

Long story lol
I measured the reading between the two white wires and it was zero
So it was buggered
Now coming to removing that o2 sensor it wasn’t budging
After fighting with it for ever lying under the car wasn’t the best position to apply some torque 
Drove to a local garage and they managed to take it off but the threads were destroyed as whoever put it on cross threaded it
I’ve ordered a lamda nut
Just waiting on that so can get it welded on and then hopefully put the Replacemnt sensor on
Not driving it now as it doesn’t sound very good with a hole in the exhaust
Will report back in a few days hopefully

Isn't this the sensor that you replaced with a used spare you happened to have, that also proved to be faulty?
The sensors that were in Bank-2/Sensor-1?
Or is it some other sensor?
Or what?

[tango]

Long story lol
I measured the reading between the two white wires and it was zero
So it was buggered
Now coming to removing that o2 sensor it wasn’t budging
After fighting with it for ever lying under the car wasn’t the best position to apply some torque 
Drove to a local garage and they managed to take it off but the threads were destroyed as whoever put it on cross threaded it
I’ve ordered a lamda nut
Just waiting on that so can get it welded on and then hopefully put the Replacemnt sensor on
Not driving it now as it doesn’t sound very good with a hole in the exhaust
Will report back in a few days hopefully

Isn't this the sensor that you replaced with a used spare you happened to have, that also proved to be faulty?
The sensors that were in Bank-2/Sensor-1?
Or is it some other sensor?
Or what?

no I replaced sensor 1 in bank 2 (luckily that came out nice )
As that was showing up faulty originally
After replacing that, sensor 2 in same back started showing up as faulty

[tango]

It probably wasn't cross-threaded, but just seized. It's a short, coarse thread(1.5mm) that probably only has about 3 threads engaged. It doesn't take much to ruin the threads when both parts are new

probably was seized and your right it only locks on a few threads but a right mess when it came out

[tango]

I bought a taper tap 1.5mm m18 as this was recommended by the garage as a better solution
And luckily he was able re thread the existing nut
The sensor went in nicely and tightened
The fault has disappeared
So currently showing no faults
I only drove it a few miles back home but will see over the next few days how it goes