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Messages - Matchless

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61
Hi, I have not read through your previous posts so sorry if you have already sorted this but the rubber hose joints on the SAI system fail as a result of high back pressure from the exhaust, due to collapse inside of the back box or a failing catalytic convertor.
Disconnecting the SAI and blanking the pipes cures the symptom, not the cause.

62
Omega General Help / Re: AC compressor clutch
« on: 08 August 2012, 14:10:55 »
Just to clarify...is there 12V at the connector on the compressor itself?

The clutch can be replaced in-situ, but you need a special puller and installer tools to do it, most aircon guys should have these tools but they wont like the job as access is difficult.
You can get the tools off e-bay and fit a new or good used clutch yourself if handy with the spanners, just remove the bagpipes and the secondary air pipe for better access.

63
James, please make some notes where you think the idiots maintenance guide needs to be clearer.  ;)

The guide was written around a 2.5, I didnt know the flexplate spacer had been fixed to the flexplate for the 2.6 / 3.2 so that is worth adding.

Spigot bearing: the nylon bit goes down the hole first, then tap in the needle roller bearing. I think the nylon bit helps the input shaft to align with the needle rollers when you are fitting the box.

Fit the gearlever first....to the car! You can struggle to fit it all togeather and rivet it in place once the box is in if you want but I wouldnt recommend it.

Think you said you were waiting for a new oil seal? If this comes a a bare seal, without an introducer (plastic sleeve) inside it, then you need to make one yourself to aid fitting to the block. If you fit it without you will be stripping it all down again fairly soon to replace the seal you damaged. :-[
Get hold of some brass shim or cut up a CokeTM can etc. You want enough thin metal to form a tight fitting tube around the end of the crank. Wrap the shim around the crank tightly and secure the ends with sellotape, then slide it off and make sure all sharp edges are covered with a layer of tape.
Grease the seal lips then carefully slide the tube into the seal ..from the outside of the seal.
Fit the tube over the end of the crank and slide the seal up to the block, carefully tap the seal into place before removing the tube.
The reason for all this is that the crank face and the block face are flush so you cannot get the seal lip to fit over the crank until the seal is partly fitted into the block and it is all too easy to damage the lip.

One other point, the gearbox rear cradle will bolt to a different pair of holes in the car floor to the ones used by the auto....check the bolts scew into the holes first, mine had some sort of coating clogging the threads which made life difficult, wished I had run a tap through first.

64
Hi James,
The "adaptor ring" is more of a spacer between flex plate and crank, you must remove it. I almost missed it as it was stuck fast to the end of the crank.
Is your rear oil seal OK?
Have you got the correct flywheel bolts? manual ones are longer than auto. Also, if your bolts are hex head (rather than torx) then grind the end of your socket flat....the bolt heads are very thin and the socket will slip off the bolt else.

65
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: towbar wanted
« on: 28 May 2012, 12:33:27 »
One for free in Nottingham if you want it, cant offer fitting though, too many other jobs on the wife's list waiting.

66
DMF failures affect all the diesle cars inclduing the japs and teh BMW's.

The trouble is the failure mode on the Fords (and consequently also the jags) is the most spectacular!


Oh go on, twist the knife while you are at it!

For that comment I expect to see you under the Jag helping out in a couple of weeks time.

67
Omega General Help / Re: Where are rear fogs?
« on: 16 April 2012, 13:34:33 »
That connector in the boot would have originally had a plug in it with a jumper wire for the fogs. Look at the wiring diagrams to work out which two pins / wires you have to join together to get the fogs working again.

68
General Car Chat / Re: Zafira power steering
« on: 01 March 2012, 13:33:49 »
Ah, if its the EHS one then look on the suspension tower or bulkhead for a connector with some fat wires in it, on our previous Astra the chassis connection for the motor return current dropped off due to corrosion in the connector.
There was a fuse in or in-line with this connector, big one iirc.

69
General Car Chat / Re: Miggy Estate Replacement?
« on: 01 March 2012, 13:28:29 »
None of the recent estates match the Omega for height or width of the tailgate opening, I think it must be a change to the rear impact tests as they all seem to be using similar shapes and structures.
I had to move my daughters furniture recently, it all fitted in the Omega in one trip in October but needed two trips in the Jag estate this time due to width / height limitations.

70
General Car Chat / Re: Zafira power steering
« on: 01 March 2012, 13:23:27 »
Hi Pete.

Have a look at the BBA Reman site, it sounds like this system is similar to one on a meriva I had to fix recently, see if there are any clues on there to the typical faults.
iirc there is an additional signal wire from the alternator to the steering 'brain' to say "OK to take gallons of current", on start-up I recall a relay or contactor clicking in under the dash once the alternator was running....does the steering start-up at all?


71
General Car Chat / Re: Quick fixer up ?
« on: 06 February 2012, 13:44:58 »
Err, No.
I have a pressing engagement with another wonderful and endearing machine.

I just hope it gets a bit warmer by Thursday.

72
General Car Chat / Re: Quick fixer up ?
« on: 06 February 2012, 13:38:59 »
Dont know what you are complaining about Mark, the engine cant be too bad if it can wheelie and the steering only has 90 degrees of play in it now that there is some fluid in the hydraulics.
Ergonomics are wonderfull with the full upholstered reclining seat and the throttle pedal is conveniently located somewhere behind the driving seat.

73
General Discussion Area / Re: gas queery
« on: 19 January 2012, 11:38:57 »
Had to use a Gas Safe fitter to make the final connection after I installed my own boiler last year (needed a cert. to get the Magic Boiler rebate).
He passed the system as safe even though a leak-down check had pressure falling to zero after 15mins. "Thats fine mate, they all leak a little bit. £90 please".

I investigated the fault myself and found a corroded pipe burried directly in a concrete floor. System now holds pressure for hours. did I get him back to  retest it? No.

Do the job yourself but do it properly and check it afterwards. If you have any doubt about your ability or level of knowledge then get someone in.
Also ask to see their Gas Safe ID card...there are a lot of fitters signing work off on a mates Reg. number. Unlike Corgi, all gas fitters have to have their own ID now to certify work.

74
General Car Chat / Re: Engine steam cleaning advice
« on: 10 January 2012, 12:48:32 »
Keep the pressure washer / steam cleaner away from any bearings, eg aux idler, a/c compressor, alternator etc.

Been there, done that, had to replace all the bearings 6 months later.  :-[

75
General Car Chat / Re: Advice needed - Drum brakes
« on: 12 December 2011, 22:19:55 »
The "teeth" on the adjuster ratchets are very shallow and quite soft steel. One they slip, then they always slip.
I have rescued similar ones on Renaults by recutting the teeth with a triangular needle file.

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