46
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl Flaps anybody ?
« on: 27 February 2018, 07:23:27 »
So am I (although only by birth, not heritage).
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47
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl Flaps anybody ?
« on: 25 February 2018, 17:34:21 »
You're very very lucky.
1. Not to have buggered the fuel pump
2. Not to have a permanent EML light on for air flow outside parameters at low revs. If you do, at least you'll know what the cause is.
I'd be interested to see how much the fuel consumption rises and how the fuel pump manages to match volume of fuel delivery to the amount of air going in now there's no control at low revs.
Oh well, I suppose Mr Opel didn't really know what he was doing.
Sorry for the sarcasm but really??
1. Not to have buggered the fuel pump
2. Not to have a permanent EML light on for air flow outside parameters at low revs. If you do, at least you'll know what the cause is.
I'd be interested to see how much the fuel consumption rises and how the fuel pump manages to match volume of fuel delivery to the amount of air going in now there's no control at low revs.
Oh well, I suppose Mr Opel didn't really know what he was doing.
Sorry for the sarcasm but really??
48
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire
« on: 22 February 2018, 20:08:13 »
Happy to bow to the wisdom of others but that really sounds like fuel starvation to me. The pump controls the delivery of the fuel and engine timing and you have both. I seems to me that it misfires after you rev it which is what makes me think starvation. I assume the mechanics have checked the fuel pipes and strainer at the tank end and pronounced them all clean and free from debris? If not can I suggest they look there, if so what about checking fuel pressure at the injectors. What about reading live data to rule out sensor issues as you are driving along. All simple stuff really and a cheap fix if that's where the problem is.
The few instances of pump failure I have encountered are just that, failure.
The few instances of pump failure I have encountered are just that, failure.
49
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire
« on: 21 February 2018, 08:43:18 »
Being positive, if the pump unit had failed mechanically it most likely wouldn't work at all. If the failure is electrical it could be intermittent but can be fixed by a diesel pump/Bosch specialist, there was a recent thread with this type of problem. Often DTis are scrapped with pump failure which is no more than a broken wire or soldered joint.
Even so, repair is likely to be way less expensive than replacement. My bet is still a flow problem with the fault at the back end of the car rather than the front.
Even so, repair is likely to be way less expensive than replacement. My bet is still a flow problem with the fault at the back end of the car rather than the front.
50
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire
« on: 20 February 2018, 16:58:57 »
Sorry, my mistake, I was working off the parts catalogue - mine is currently not in a position to be dismantled to check. 2.5 DTi has a pump, 2.2 DTi does not. but there should still be a strainer assembly to get blocked and pipes to and from the tank as well.
51
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire
« on: 20 February 2018, 08:34:34 »
There is a pump there, and I think there may be an additional strainer to stop bigger bits of crud from passing through the pump. Not certain about this second bit as I've never had to take mine apart.
52
Omega General Help / Re: Misfire
« on: 19 February 2018, 20:02:25 »Well it run fine for 2 weeks now has died completely. The codes have been read and there are 2 codes P1220 START OF INJECTOR CONTROL. P1345 ROTARY ANGLE SENSOR.
The aa say the fuel pump gone.
Not necessarily.
Something in the back of my memory says fuel flow problem which is caused by a blockage due to crud at the tank pick up. You can disconnect the pipes to the fuel chamber under the back seat and blow back down them. You should hear the air bubbling in the tank. As these pipes are prone to rust there's a source for blockage along with any sediment that might have been picked up if the tank ran a little low.
53
Omega General Help / Re: what do you do
« on: 12 February 2018, 07:39:07 »
I start by wiping down the filter housing and around the base, remove housing and filter and clean round inside, change o rings with a wipe of fresh oil and put it all back together again. I have never ever pre-filled an oil filter and never found a problem but I always pre-fill fuel filters.
Only the Rover V8 is different where you should never change the oil filter with the sump empty unless you prime the oil pump with petroleum jelly - there may be others but that's the only one I know of.
Only the Rover V8 is different where you should never change the oil filter with the sump empty unless you prime the oil pump with petroleum jelly - there may be others but that's the only one I know of.
54
Omega General Help / Re: car battery
« on: 12 February 2018, 07:31:16 »No problem buying a TC battery for mine last year. They are a standard GM battery the same as for my diesel astra so someone's pulling your leg.I tried 3 dealers that are within 25mls of York & still do T.C & the answer from all was they no longer supply batteries that are suitable for an omega. my first thought was the initial dealer couldn't be bothered . then when the next 2 said the same thing then I assumed it must be rightfor a few months now the battery on my mig has let me down on a few occasions but I have always managed to jump start it.. so within minutes its turned over. ecp are having w/end 30% off sale. so picked up a 70 amp for £55 with a three year warranty. me thinks not bad.Ouch
Suspect that's why I tend to get them from the dealer...
55
Omega General Help / Re: Dti stall then non start
« on: 01 February 2018, 14:37:50 »
Don't crank it over any more until you know you've got fuel at the pump. If not, and it wasn't buggered before, it will be afterwards. I'd fit a priming bulb as it's simple and cheap and pull the fuel through, See how much air you get and you might have an answer.
(Posted at the same time)
(Posted at the same time)
56
Omega General Help / Re: Replace/repair rear subframe mounting panel inner sill senator/meg
« on: 01 February 2018, 08:01:24 »
Could you try keeping the jack roughly on the same front to back alignment but using a large thick sheet of ply/MDF to spread the weight, then a plank then the jack followed by axle stand to one side of centre to give swinging room. Tilt balance then taken up with another jack then axle stand on the opposite rear above exhaust back box or equivalent on the other side.
57
Omega General Help / Re: MOT time again
« on: 01 February 2018, 07:53:12 »
A random MOT check of Omegas for sale tells a depressingly similar story. Terry's don't sound too bad in comparison, eminently fixable.
The one mentioned on ebay looks like one step removed from a death trap to me - cracked chassis rail - unless it's £1495 because he's rectified everything that's wrong and needs to make something on it. Looks like it's going to need one hell of a welding session.
When going to buy an Omega now, best take the overalls and a pointy tool.
The one mentioned on ebay looks like one step removed from a death trap to me - cracked chassis rail - unless it's £1495 because he's rectified everything that's wrong and needs to make something on it. Looks like it's going to need one hell of a welding session.
When going to buy an Omega now, best take the overalls and a pointy tool.
58
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl valves
« on: 19 January 2018, 07:31:24 »Chazza12 Thanks ever so much for the link to the Vectra Manual. Probably a silly question this for you but this is for a Vectra 2005 to 2008. My Omega is 2001. Will it still be okay for my vehicle? Thanks ever so much for letting me know.Ideally you need the one for 2002-2005
This is the manual I use.
https://haynes.com/en-gb/vauxhall/vectra/2002-2005
although the pre 2001 vectra also uses the 2.2 DTI engine.
59
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl valves
« on: 18 January 2018, 11:15:01 »
As DG said, Vectra C diesel manual covers the DTi.
Do not disconnect the swirl valves. Clean them and ensure they work properly. With them removed, there is some experience of throwing EMLs because the air flow at low revs exceeds parameters. They are also there to make the engine work more efficiently.
However, do not just clean them, but clean the rest of the pipework too, there's no point cleaning the end of the system if everything before it is still filthy. If the EGR is also at fault then that may have to be cleaned, replaced, blanked off or mapped out for the problem to go away completely.
I hope your mechanic does the job as thoroughly as we would with our own cars. Oh, and just because you are a woman doesn't mean you can't get stuck in if you want to.
Do not disconnect the swirl valves. Clean them and ensure they work properly. With them removed, there is some experience of throwing EMLs because the air flow at low revs exceeds parameters. They are also there to make the engine work more efficiently.
However, do not just clean them, but clean the rest of the pipework too, there's no point cleaning the end of the system if everything before it is still filthy. If the EGR is also at fault then that may have to be cleaned, replaced, blanked off or mapped out for the problem to go away completely.
I hope your mechanic does the job as thoroughly as we would with our own cars. Oh, and just because you are a woman doesn't mean you can't get stuck in if you want to.
60
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl valves
« on: 18 January 2018, 08:13:42 »
Sorry, momentarily muddled with a different car. Swirl flaps in the DTI rarely give any trouble but if they are filthy to the point where they don't work then the rest of the system will be pretty horrendous and the EGR is likely to not work properly either.
Give yourself a day and be prepared to get very dirty. Fiddling with the actuators will have no effect at all. Even if you don't have the tools then buying a manual and the tools and doing it yourself will still be a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic to tell you nothing and do marginally less.
Give yourself a day and be prepared to get very dirty. Fiddling with the actuators will have no effect at all. Even if you don't have the tools then buying a manual and the tools and doing it yourself will still be a lot cheaper than paying a mechanic to tell you nothing and do marginally less.