Topic: Cambelt fitting (Read 2394 times)

05omegav6 · « **on:** 23 April 2013, 13:00:39 »

Having watched the excellent OOF dvd

the time has come to fit the new cambelt...

Only one item of concern, the new belt has a couple of barcodes, but no other marks.

How do I align it on the crank pulley $:-\$

henryd · « **Reply #1 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:03:45 »

If the locking kit is in place it doesn't matter about the marks on the belt:y

Andy B · « **Reply #2 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:04:34 »

Quote from: ex taxi al on 23 April 2013, 13:00:39

....

How do I align it on the crank pulley $:-\$

What henry says!

JesperKjeldsen · « **Reply #3 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:07:05 »

look up a bit and see what henry wrote..

JesperKjeldsen · « **Reply #4 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:09:54 »

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4eekzcri38u0vuc/E-Tech%20Reparaturleitfaden%20Omega%20B%2094-99.pdf

sorry its not in english.

please let me know if the link works, trying to get the entire repair manual up.

05omegav6 · « **Reply #5 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:10:13 »

Cheers lads

So basically:

Fit the belt
Adjust idlers
Tension
Rotate crank a couple of times
Check timing adjusting where necessary
Re tension
Rotate crank twice
Recheck

JesperKjeldsen · « **Reply #6 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:12:00 »

nemlig det er lige sådan man skal gøre det..

or just. yeps that how to do it

05omegav6 · « **Reply #7 on:** 23 April 2013, 13:16:08 »

Here goes...

Lizzie_Zoom · « **Reply #8 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:06:57 »

All the best Al!

I have still got mine to do after promising myself to do it for months now. Pushing my luck I know, but I am awaiting some cash to come through to afford it.

05omegav6 · « **Reply #9 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:24:37 »

Hit a snag

Timing marks were 180° out, managed to turn the crank 3/4 of a turn but it keeps slipping back when I try to move the ratchet back to turn it further. Engine is also very tight $:-\$

JesperKjeldsen · « **Reply #10 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:27:01 »

its the compretion you can feel. turn the crank til you cant turn it no more and hold it there for a bit, it should help a bit

05omegav6 · « **Reply #11 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:33:01 »

Quote from: JesperKjeldsen on 23 April 2013, 14:27:01

its the compretion you can feel. turn the crank til you cant turn it no more and hold it there for a bit, it should help a bit

shall give that a try

Elite Pete · « **Reply #12 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:38:33 »

Don't force anything, you could bend valves.

Elite Pete · « **Reply #13 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:39:10 »

Quote from: ex taxi al on 23 April 2013, 14:24:37

Hit a snag

Timing marks were 180° out, managed to turn the crank 3/4 of a turn but it keeps slipping back when I try to move the ratchet back to turn it further. Engine is also very tight $:-\$

How did you manage that?

jonny2112 · « **Reply #14 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:44:43 »

Should you not be rotating the crank until the timing on the cams nearly line up, before fitting the lock?
Sounds like the crank has been locked too early maybe?

05omegav6 · « **Reply #15 on:** 23 April 2013, 14:47:21 »

Wasn't me

Last change was at Guffers two years ago $:-\$ it was an absolute pig to time/tension iirc

Pm incoming Pete

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #16 on:** 23 April 2013, 15:08:18 »

Yep, DO NOT turn the crank if the drive to the cams is disconnected. It will be pistons hitting valves rather than compression that is your problem.

Turn the crank back by about 60 degrees from the TDC marking with the belt off. You should then have all of the pistons well down in the bores so it is then safe to turn each of the cams to the correct position for belt fitting and lock them using the kit.

Having locked the cams, rotate the crank forward by 60 degrees to the TDC position, lock it and fit the belt.

I find on the 3.2/2.6 without the adjusting lower idler, that if you rotate the crank about 1 tooth back before fitting the belt in an anticlockwise direction (i.e. over cams 4 and 3 first, then rotate the crank back to TDC before fitting the sprung tensioner, there is less likelihood that it ends up a tooth out.

You can always transpose the belt markings from the old belt to the new using some tip-ex. While not essential it does help.

05omegav6 · « **Reply #17 on:** 23 April 2013, 15:13:56 »

Massive thank you to EP

for reminding me to take the car out of gear

Cams 3 and 4 were slightly advanced, but now spot on

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #18 on:** 23 April 2013, 15:16:35 »

Quote from: ex taxi al on 23 April 2013, 15:13:56

Massive thank you to EP for reminding me to take the car out of gear

Cams 3 and 4 were slightly advanced, but now spot on

Always a winner.

You sure you are up to this driver involvement lark?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #19 on:** 23 April 2013, 15:17:47 »

Quote from: ex taxi al on 23 April 2013, 15:13:56

Cams 3 and 4 were slightly advanced, but now spot on

Is this the one that's always had that misfire, out of interest?

05omegav6 · « **Reply #20 on:** 23 April 2013, 15:18:35 »

No adjustment on the lower idler $:-\$

No marks on the old belt either

You can see where today is heading

In answer to your next question... yup

05omegav6 · « **Reply #21 on:** 23 April 2013, 20:19:30 »

Finally sorted

Mahoosive thank you to

Elite Pete for the phone support

Kevin for the technical support

Robsey for sorting the whole sorry mess when I screwed it up

Elite Pete · « **Reply #22 on:** 24 April 2013, 07:08:44 »

Quote from: ex taxi al on 23 April 2013, 20:19:30

Finally sorted

Mahoosive thank you to

Elite Pete for the phone support

Kevin for the technical support

Robsey for sorting the whole sorry mess when I screwed it up

The main thing is you got it sorted

News:

Author Topic: Cambelt fitting (Read 2394 times)

05omegav6

05omegav6

05omegav6

Lizzie_Zoom

05omegav6

05omegav6

05omegav6

05omegav6

05omegav6

05omegav6