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Messages - ajsphead

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16
Omega General Help / Re: What car should I buy?
« on: 28 October 2018, 09:08:30 »
Looks beat up, I’d personally spend a bit more on a decent example.
Does indeed, then again so did both of mine (Gs not Hs). I'd still stick with the G myself, less advanced so easier to fix.

Also don't get taken in by the half leather seat thing if it matters. Design models of all Vauxhall types of this age have half cloth half plastic seats and are susceptible to increased wear depending on the seat bolster design. Vectras are worse than Astras in this respect.

If it was me, I'd be looking at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-Vauxhall-Opel-Astra-2-2i-16v-2003MY-Bertone-Edition-RARE-CAR-LOVELY-DRIVE/163303149900?hash=item2605a0514c:g:ZK4AAOSwSVdbu5E8:rk:5:pf:0.

or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Opel-Astra-1-6i-16v-Twinport-2004-Sport/223191801718?hash=item33f7449f76:g:qosAAOSwmNlbxcz5:rk:7:pf:0

or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-Vauxhall-Astra-1-6-LS-85k-NEW-MOT/273514023215?hash=item3faeb4c92f:g:4u4AAOSwKwhbyH~e:rk:24:pf:0

17
Omega General Help / Re: What car should I buy?
« on: 25 October 2018, 21:35:49 »
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201810221727162?fuel-type=Petrol&model=5%20SERIES&make=BMW&advertising-location=at_cars&year-to=2006&radius=1500&postcode=tw89de&price-to=2000&sort=price-asc&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&minimum-badge-engine-size=3.0&transmission=Automatic&page=1

4.4 V8 with RWD for grand, that's my kinda banger.
You will spend your entire life trying to find where all the fluids are escaping from.  Actually, as you say you don't have time to maintain cars (and that 4.4 lump needs lovin'), you'll be paying someone a fortune keeping that going.

I’d rather spend time tinkering with that, while getting to enjoy a V8.

Where is the fun in tinkering to keep an Astra, no fun for the work.

Tinckering with an Astra G isn't fun, it's easy. Tinckering with an Omega isn't fun it's a necessity.

Both my Astra G's are really ordinary but with light mods when things wear out have got better with age and miles. Full Eibach/Bilstein suspension with new GM sport front mounts and the front end is really tight and pointy, not really go kart but pretty sharp for a family hatch. Remapped 1.7CDTi gives real world 63+ MPG and the same sort of pull as a new Skoda Octavia VRS - just ask the poor sod who tried to out drag me uphill on a dual carriageway last Summer when he saw a slightly battered old Astra and assumed it was a slow smoky pile of s!!!e. It's only the longer gearing that eventually got him past after nearly a mile of trying really hard. Total with the mods still less than a grand. That's where the fun comes.

Petrol is less congested under the bonnet than diesel so easier to work on, 2 litre turbo is pretty rapid and can be made to handle well and is off the "notice me" radar.

Normal 1.4 or 1.6 petrol dead easy to work on, simple and once sorted is reliable. Most will not have been looked after properly but that's right up Terry's street so should be fine.


RWD is much more fun to drive, even better with a howling engine for a soundtrack, sadly it's a long way from what most people want. Have found though that you can still do doughnuts in an Astra G with deft use of the handbrake, a wet surface and crap tyres.


18
Omega General Help / Re: Front Springs Length Difference
« on: 19 October 2018, 07:52:09 »
Your driver side ;) presumably due to the combined weight of the battery and driver. Uk cars front springs are equal length :y
Agreed. Something to do with distribution of major components under the bonnet which are more left side focused on a LHD car and more equally spread on RHD.

19
Omega General Help / Re: What car should I buy?
« on: 19 October 2018, 07:49:57 »
Mrs Builder had an Hyundai Elantra when I met her, parts where expensive .everything rusted between fettling intervals .
It was made clear that she would need to swap brand to vauxhall before I alowed her to marry me  :y
the in-laws still have a santa fe , because they drag a tin shed around the country quite often ,they have it repaired elsewhere at great expense as it does not meet the requirements of my Vauxhall family care service/repair criteria  ;D

petrol astra H are a good choice agreed , if it must be petrol , the astra H design 1.7 cdti tractor juice edition estate my brother is running is saving him quite a chunk of cash on fuel .
also, in true "bangernomics" style, you should not rule out the older astra G platform IF purchased cheapy with long MOT,no major issues .
a sub £500 car with 12 months mot is £10 a week and you'll still claw back scrap value £100+ IF the next MOT is untenable .
also if vauxhall 5 stud 5x110 you could save wheels/tyres off the doomed omega ,depending on what vaux you go for

or get that clutch swapped  ;D

Astra Gs are tough little things. I'd choose one over the H mainly because it's electronically much simpler.

I think the floorpan is the same as the H as I've found many fixed length parts like hoses and links are interchangeable. Some people find the Astra G seats a bit uncomfortable. Easy swap with the H seats which are much more supportive.

The CDTis weak point is emissions. Even with proper hard use the inlet manifold gunges up. Mapping out the EGR as you can't just blank it, cleans up the smoke test and ensures a good safe MOT pass.

Both of mine, 1 petrol, 1 diesel barely cost £500 between them and have cost about the same over the years to put into good condition.

They are small, light and simple to work on so seem perfect for home maintenance.

20
Omega General Help / Re: What car should I buy?
« on: 17 October 2018, 07:40:21 »
Alongside the Omega i have a Vectra C 1.8VVT. Once brought up to scratch it's clean, safe, comfy, reliable and rust free, just has those damn annoying column stalks and cracked springs. Cracked springs are easy to sort, just don't buy OE or pattern springs when they go because they'll just go again. Replace with Eibach pro-kit, do the job once.

I also have 2 astra G's, a 1.7 CDTi which cost £420 and again needed bringing up to scratch and a EGR delete to sort out the emissions and a thorough cleaning of the inlet manifold but is otherwise fine and reliable. I also have a 1.6 twinport picked up for £250 on ebay which should cost about another £250 to finish sorting and so far has also been utterly reliable too. Rusty brake pipes and rear arches are the only non mechanical gripes.

All of them have done 100K+ miles and they all work perfectly. Nothing wrong with Vauxhalls that are properly maintained. Factor in lack of maintenance when you buy them and there's no issue.

21
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 issue.
« on: 29 September 2018, 20:05:53 »
Do I understand that it's fine when cold, just misses and overfuels when hot?

If so then problem could be breakdown within coil packs leading to inadequate spark or
faulty lambdas, probably post cat or
faulty coolant temp sensor reading low, making ECU enrich mixture (unlikely in this case) or
breakdown within spark plugs causing weak spark or
injectors sticking open causing the duration to be artificially long or
the usual crank sensor or
any attendent wiring or
something really silly like birds nest in the airbox.

It needs someone who can read the V6 dataset to comment on the airflow and lambda readings.

I'd give it a full thorough service including some internal cleaning potions that actually work then if not cured you could test each suspect component at a time till you find the duff one, or do it on a probablility and likelihood basis.

22
Omega General Help / Re: Is my OBDII bozwonk.....
« on: 19 September 2018, 14:01:07 »
Can you run the code reader on a GM specific setting then on a generic OBDII setting and see if there is a difference. I also found this on the old site which may be of value.

http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1253462747

23
Omega General Help / Re: Which windscreen ?
« on: 19 September 2018, 07:33:44 »
7 parts would be the 4 frame pieces, two rubber pieces and the screen... effectively a complete screen assembly :y

Agree with DG. 7 parts total including the screen. 2 fitters also helps. The point to watch out for as also said above is the top corners of the trim strip not sitting flush with the body and screen. The third set of fitters I had were aware of this and one of them told me the technique for getting it right as apparently there is one. Sadly I've completely forgotten what it is.

When the screen is off have a good look around the car body for rust particularly the seam where the inner wings and scuttle join. This is your opportunity to fix anything brown and fill in any defects in the paint caused by slap dash previous efforts at removing the screen trims.

24
Omega General Help / Re: Which windscreen ?
« on: 18 September 2018, 07:31:48 »
Agreed, mine too. Took 3 attempts to get a new screen earlier this year. First one was a clear screen - no tint at all, second time was the right screen but with one of the mounting sections missing despite me telling the staff to ensure that all pieces were present. Apparently they did but the warehouse staff don't read what they write. Third time it went in.

However this summer I nearly lost the trim finisher whilst in the outside lane of the motorway. Crack bang flappy flappy noise but still attached by the bottom 12" on the nearside.

Pulled across, slowed to 58mph where the pressure equalises above and below the strip as it was dangling along the car, wound window down and pulled it in. Completed journey, straightened it out and have now lightly glued it in place. Probably worthwhile for everyone to do something similar if autoglass have fitted the screen.

25
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 16 September 2018, 19:43:12 »
Exactly - you need to enjoy repairing Omegas if they're going to last. I very much think of it as another hobby for me, and at least in my senior years it means I keep sort of active crawling around under the old girl getting covered in crap.

I've had an CD estate on the driveway going nowhere for the last couple of years and decided a couple of weeks ago to do something with it. Keeping it for spares was an original thought, but with the other estate CDX as a weekly drive and in tip top condition, I got the urge to go through it and make sure things weren't too far gone. New wishbones & steering rodsfitted last week. So far the front wheel arches & sills are all tidy now and protected inside and out, the front end behind the bumper is all sorted and protected....... I haven't even got to the rear arches and back end, so there's still a hell of a lot of work to do, not to mention cambelt, cam covers, handbrake cable, drilling out broken rusty screws, etc.


Sounds like hard work? It's enjoyable and feel as though I'm saving something in a throw-away society. Financially the car owes me nothing, and I'll easily get the budget down under £300 for a reliable winter runner.

Mine is a hobby too. As one of the group of us who have done up cars in the past which are now classics, the Omega falls into the same category now. I do run it as an everyday A to B form of transport, alongside other cars, but I couldn't run it without having another car. Every year it comes off the road for 2 or 3 weeks to have something fairly substantial done to it and as the design is 25 years old now, that puts the early ones firmly into classic territory. Mine is an 03 so it's got a long way to go. but I reckon it'll get there.

The parallels with Rover SD1s are interesting. In the 90s you could barely give them away as rotten old rust buckets and unreliable piles of ****. Now look at the values of tidy ones. The comparison is that if I were to buy another Omega it would not be on age and mileage it would be on condition. That's one benchmark I use to indicate the move into classic status.

Being older and having the benefit of a wider experience can colour our judgement compared to younger people who don't have that same perspective. Omegas are getting mentions in popular classic car magazines, one only last month suggesting people should go out and buy them as the numbers left have reduced by 48% in the last 2 years.

SD1s are cool now, Omegas can go the same way, after all they were better to start with.

26
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 14 September 2018, 14:47:30 »
Quote
Not worthless  ::)
look at the many threads about people trying to find cars to replace omega
many involving spending £10k +
Don't delude yourself.

Those people have, largely, used it as an excuse to move up in car. The Omega used to be a £2-3k purchase. It is now a sub £500 way to avoid walking.

Replacing an Omega is now a £3-500 decision. Buying a 5 year old Jag or Merc or Passat is a lifestyle choice pure and simple.

Not entirely so if you get into the "modern classic" market which is waking up to Omegas. The word is that smart people should take advantage of people selling them cheap and treat them as a future smart buy. Because they are still relatively simple bodily and mechanically they can still be done up for peanuts.

They can't be oversold, we're nowhere near that and probably never will be but they can now be undersold.

27
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 10 September 2018, 07:33:50 »
Outer arch repairs are very simple, just depends on how much has rotted passed the crease that forms the spot welded flange. Inner arch is not much more difficult, it just requires lots of card for templates and plenty of patience.

28
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 petrol manual estate misfiring
« on: 09 August 2018, 07:35:20 »
Each... Last I bought, admittedly in 2005, were £180 a side... Includes new seal and o rings.

Alternatively buy £15 ones and replace at every service...
Back in 2006 my first 3.2 Omega cost £2500, so £360 keeping it tip top seemed reasonable. 12 years on, with my Omegas worth less than £200 each, I am mean with maintenance costs. I still cling to my belief that if the breathers are clear then a leaking cam cover gasket will leak air in, not oil out. I expect to be proven wrong.
Today I blew a lot of oil out of my big breather tubes. Perhaps they were blocked.

I take a slightly different view. I don't look at what my Omega is worth, I look at what it's worth to me and if I weigh everything up, it's a hard act to replace. So whatever it needs is what it gets and only ever OE or OEM parts. Admittedly my fleet is not quite as big as yours, I only have 4 cars in total, but take a similar view with all of them. It's still cheaper to fix than to replace.

My garage service manager has just bought a very tidy 2.6 and bit off the hand of the seller at less than £1000 - he knew what he was buying more than the seller knew what he was selling. Following the used/classic/auction markets reveals that values of the best Omegas have bottomed out and are going back up again so I'm trying to keep mine in that category.

The classic market is beginning to cotton onto them as the "last great rear wheel drive large Opel/Vauxhall" and "a better drive than the equivalent Mercedes E class". If you want a comparison just look at values for the Rover SD1.


29
Omega General Help / Re: Rear disc replacement
« on: 04 August 2018, 16:55:23 »
Did you test the handbrake with the car up on axle stands under the forward arms of the subframe. If so the cable has probably crushed and/or broken. One side not working with everything adjusted correctly is either a seized or snapped cable. Get someone to work the handbrake while you look at the joint where the lever inside the drum attaches to the cable. If there's unequal effort on the levers it's probably the cable, if there's equal effort then it may not be adjusted as well as you think.

30
Omega General Help / Re: Understeer
« on: 11 July 2018, 08:17:19 »
If it's any help, I get very little understeer from mine relative to the big barge heavy engine it'll never be a sports car principle. Camber and toe as DG has said, Eibach -30s and Bilstein B4s with polybushes 32 psi front 34 rear on standard size 17" tyres.

I only get low speed full throttle oversteer, never understeer and gradual mid corner application of throttle causes the front to slightly tighten unless you are doing stupid speeds relative to the turn in point. I'd suggest softening it off but getting rid of the standard springs as they are designed for all round comfort and if old are probably knackered.

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