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Messages - ajsphead

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61
Omega General Help / Re: Swirl valves
« on: 18 January 2018, 07:44:26 »
DTi is a bit more basic than the later CDTi models. It doesn't have a swirl valve so you'll be struggling to find one and any associated levers.

EGR valve is more likely but I suggest you get a code reader (cheaper than your mechanic) plug it in and see what it says. In the meantime, you could take apart the re-breathing and induction systems and give it all a jolly good clean. It doesn't even have a throttle body, so no need to worry about that either. Just steer clear of the MAF sensor.

62
Getting the exhaust apart is one thing. the rust on the floor pan above the back box that you'll discover may be something else.

64
Omega General Help / Re: 1st diesel omega
« on: 10 January 2018, 08:15:36 »
It'll much up motorway miles very happily and economically too. There's a fairly recent thread about the fuel pump issues. That's one reason not to let the tank run too low, but otherwise the post I put in explaining how they work fills in a lot of blanks. Basically just don't let them run dry as the timing plunger and housing can be damaged and the ECU can overheat.

They are very common units which can also be repaired without too much bother by suitably expert people and sometimes by owners depending on the problem so I wouldn't worry.

Change the fuel filter yourself so you know it's done properly and don't let pub logic influence you.

More to the point will be standard Omega issues which will keep you busy just like the rest of us.

65
Omega General Help / Re: 1st diesel omega
« on: 10 January 2018, 07:34:57 »
Hi and welcome to diesel ownership.

I don't know who suggested that the diesel engine is prone to problems because it's pretty near bulletproof and far less temperamental than the V6 petrols. The caveat will be the competence of any previous owner just like it is for any old used car. There's nothing particularly special to worry about other than not letting the fuel tank run too low (1/4 min is safe). Oil change with decent 10W40 every 5K miles, filter every 10K and otherwise follow the GM servicing schedule and it'll just keep chugging along.

You might find some of the oil seals are getting a bit weepy, a good reason not to use thinner oil, which the engine doesn't really need anyway, and a job that can be gradually sorted out bit by bit.

Problems will be due to age/natural wear and tear, poor ownership and poor quality workmanship. Standard lottery really.

66
Not really.

Make sure that both parts of the trim are securely attached to the base of the windscreen.

When I got the Project MV6 from James he had just replaced the coil packs. After a little while I discovered that the scuttle foam was soaking wet and that the windscreen trim was insecure. I ended up pulling the trim off (and separating both parts) and giving it a good scrub to get all the moss out.

Since I did that the foam has remained dry. Pulling the foam off doesn't prevent the leaks it merely gets rid of the evidence..........
Thanks for the enlightenment. I used to believe windscreen trims were glued on. Son Jonny recently had a windscreen replaced and complained to me that the side trims was coming out. I contacted Autoglass, they came along, said it should be a push fit, then glued it in place. In the past I have glued on loose bottom trims. Next time I shall pull the bottom trim off and reseat everything properly.

Recently had autoglass to replace a windscreen on mine, what a laugh that was after taking 3 attempts. The parts do all clip together and no glue should be necessary. The final pair of fitters explained that if you don't have experience of doing Omegas and fit everything together in the right order and the right direction then the trims will keep coming loose and also not sit correctly.

67
Omega General Help / Re: battery
« on: 03 January 2018, 07:31:52 »
car has not been used for 3days & today the battery wouldn't turn the engine, a spare battery I have which has not been used for nearly a year but to my surprise was holding a 12.8 charge started my mig using jump leads, no bother. could it be that unwittingly I am using power hence draining the battery. I tend to leave front screen heater & also the radio switched on. I presume they don't use power when the ignition is off. am I right. ?
Sounds like mine when the last battery was dying. However after 3 or 4 days without use the new GM battery in mine struggled to turn the engine over during the cold spell we have just had. Came to the conclusion that it could be a mix of the starter motor is marginal for power in cold weather combined with normal diesel starting-itis in cold weather possibly with a bit of worn out glow plugs thrown in. If mine stays unused for 3 weeks then it's pretty reluctant to get going so I've got into the habit of giving it a slow charge for a day or two before use.

I tend to switch everything off before turning off the ignition so I don't think that will make any difference, but a trickle of drain is always possible from somewhere. With regular use it doesn't show itself.

68
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 27 December 2017, 09:37:06 »
Slight improvement in fuel consumption, slight increase in noise, I prefer to hear the engine on my cars, and a little cough on overrun to add to the character. Shortening the air inlet really helped initial pickup as did de-restricting the airbox and changing the air filter for a free flow type. The best intake design for a N/A petrol engine is not the best design for a turbo diesel, so some research on turbo engines led me to the solution I have.

Finish with remap and EGR delete to maximise reasonable potential and clean up the emissions by no longer having to chew on its own effluent and I'm pretty impressed. Once warmed up,  I can now cruise at 32mph in top gear with no juddering. Smoke test was very good 30ppm at full throttle and sit at 70ish on the motoway in top and floor the throttle and I think a 3.2 would struggle to keep up.

One or two words of caution. Not every car responds the same way, mine seems to be much happier but there's no guarantee others will and, you may find you are at the torque limit of the clutch, and hence also quite close to the torque limit of the gearbox too.

Is it worth it? Yes absolutely for the improvement in refinement and performance but like everything it has to be done properly by clever reputable people and does carry a small element of risk.

69
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 25 December 2017, 18:39:34 »
Have left the cat on mine but replaced everything else with an unbaffled 2 1/2" system from the cat outlet back. Has had a similar effect. Have also shortened and re-routed the air inlet to ensure the coldest air possible and the shortest route to the turbo using the original components to keep the look right.

70
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 23 December 2017, 17:07:53 »
remap and EGR delete by reputable company local to me (Avon tuning) cost £350, but less to me as an existing customer. Whatever you do don't let a tuner increase the fuel pressure unless you want to take a risk with the fuel pump - they can blow internal seals and then get rather costly to fix.

71
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 22 December 2017, 07:25:42 »
No problem

average 40.4
best over 1000 miles 49.8 (manufacturer's best is 48.7)

This is brim to brim manual calculation, not using the trip computer at all.

72
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 21 December 2017, 12:57:54 »
2.5 smoother in standard trim and sounds less like a tractor when cold, not as economical, actually has less torque in Omega spec than the 2.2 but can be remapped if paired to a manual box. Can be had with an auto box if you want but don't remap an auto, you'll exceed the torque rating and blow up the box.

Engine bay way more congested. Getting pretty long in the tooth now and read the web pages for applications in BMW and Range Rover to get a good idea of common problems.

Can't really see the point as my remapped 2.2 is more powerful than the factory 2.5DTi that we never had in the UK and I have genuinely exceeded the manufacturers best fuel consumption figures and I can get at pretty much everything really easily to look after it.


73
Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 dti p1220 nightmare
« on: 19 December 2017, 07:36:10 »
Suggestion. Try talking to a diesel injection specialist. You have these guys https://www.welhamgroup.co.uk in Leicester, and possibly others too. I only know a little about the VP44 system, but understand that your problem may not necessarily be to do with the EDC but could be to do with a sticking valve on the mechanical side.

VP44s were fitted in millions so they are pretty common units but sadly subject to a great deal of arm chair logic. If anything went wrong with mine, I would probably admit defeat and give it to an expert to sort out as they are inherently complex - bit like taking an auto gearbox to bits and re-building it.

This might also help:

How Does the VP44 Fuel Pump Work?

The VP44 fuel pump is an electronic rotary pump that delivers fuel at extremely high pressures, and additionally controls the fuel flow rate and timing for the engine. The added responsibility of controlling the flow rate and timing means additional electronics, and also means that the VP44 has, in addition to physical part failure due to the constant high pressure and wear inside the housing, the opportunity for electrical failure through the on-board PSG, or ECU. These two failures account for the vast majority of VP44 fuel pump failures.

Internal Housing Wear Failure.
As stated earlier, the VP44 not only provides pressure, it controls engine timing and fuel delivery. As the timing is constantly changing, the internal component that moves to create this timing movement, the timer piston, is under constant motion, and under constant pressure. With time, the friction of this movement creates wear and grooves in the pump housing. Since the timer piston works under a pressure principle, it needs to maintain pressure on one side to cause movement. Once wear and grooves are created in the pump housing, fuel leaks from either side, balancing pressure, and the piston ceases movement. Once this starts to happen, the pump loses timing advance, the engine loses power, and you consume more and more fuel. The repair for this condition is replacement of the pump housing and internal parts.

PSG, or ECU Failure.
Each VP44 fuel pump has a separate computer connected to two internal sensors. The main cause of failure is with the wires connecting the two internal sensors to the PSG. The pump itself creates considerable heat, and after enough heat cycles, the wires and connectors become brittle, split, crack and fail. Additionally, there can be failures of the PSG and sensors themselves, though this is less common. The solution here is to replace the entire PSG.

74
Omega Gallery / Re: omega 2.2 dti
« on: 18 December 2017, 08:33:51 »
Really easy to look after the 2.2DTi, much less temperamental than the V6s and everything is pretty easy to get to. Fuel system is the only special thing to make sure you look after well, otherwise utterly reliable.

Remap is very effective as are the usual mods to help the turbo spool up more easily. Standard trim, it's a bit of a plodder but perfectly OK. Post remap better performance, better real world fuel consumption and the engine runs more smoothly. Would never go back to a V6

75
Omega General Help / Re: Are sprung hose clips GM patented?
« on: 18 December 2017, 08:13:02 »
Agree, with the right tools they are fine, so long as you can get the tool onto the ends. I always thought that jubilee clips should not be used on fuel lines and that the proper fuel lines clamps like this

https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/mini-screw-w1/410-7-9mm-mini-screw-clamp-zinc-plated-5060537084114.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm-6ryo2T2AIVdijTCh3i3QCUEAQYAyABEgJVwfD_BwE

were the right thing.

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