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Author Topic: Swapping TID to MID  (Read 2547 times)

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05omegav6

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Swapping TID to MID
« on: 03 January 2012, 06:49:50 »

Easy enough to do, just need a bit of patience, the ability to solder and a few bits from the scrappy/suitable donor. :y

All the wiring colours are as written in the Book of Blocks. Note the spellings are german eg GN is green and GR is grey.

Shopping list:
1x MID with plug and as much loom as you can get, at least 5".
1x Wiper stalk with buttons on end, plug and some loom. This should have 3 wires on it, BRWS/BRRT/BR or WS/RT/BR. (bear in mind estate and saloon are different and not all cars have a vaiable wiper delay fitted).
1x Coolant Bottle with Level Sensor and plug with some loom. This loom/plug might already be fitted to the car near the Brake Fluid Reservoir.
1x Washer Fluid Level Sensor/sealing ring ,some loom/plug. Again loom/plug might be lurking next to the washer Bottle.
1x Sump with Oil Level Sensor and plug and as much of this loom as possible.
1x Roll of 0.5mm2 wire.
1x Book of Blocks for the wiring diags.

1. Identify all the wires on the MID loom.
2. Cross reference all the wires on the TID loom.
3. Dismantle both plugs, leaving the 'extra' wires in the MID Plug, and transfer all the common wiring to the MID plu. Be careful to ensure that the wires are fitted to the correct location on the MID Plug.
4. Connect Pin 6 on the MID to Pin 22 on the instrument cluster (ECU). GN.
5. Connect Pin 26 on the MID to Pin 20 on the instrument cluster (fuel gauge). BLSW.
6. Connect Pin 15 on the MID to the Brake Pedal Switch. SWGE.
7. Connect Pin 16 on the MID to Fuse 2 behind the Driverside Fusebox. SW.
8. Connect Pins 23 BRWS and 24 BRRT to the control stalk.
9. Connect Pin 27 on the MID to Pin 3 on the ECU Body loom plug. SWBR.
10. Connect Pin 20 to the Coolant Level Switch. BRBL. BR wire on plug to Earth.
11. Connect Pin 22 to the Washer Fluid Level Sensor. BRGE. BR wire on plug to Earth.
12. Connect Pin 13 to the Oil Level Sensor. BRGN. BR wire on plug to Earth.

The Washer Bottle has a rubber grommet in the middle of the engine side. Just pop this out and replace with the sealing ring then the sensor just slides in.
The Oil level Sensor is part of the Sump assembley, so plan to fit this as part of an oil change. Use the opportunity to clean the pick up strainer while you're there.
The Coolant Level Sensor is part of the Coolant Bottle.
Following the above you should have 3 wires left over: 1. MID Pin 17 WEGN Check Control.
                                                                          2. MID Pin 18 SWGE Trailer Sensor, (check control?).
                                                                          3. MID Pin 28 SWGR Stop Light, (check control?).

The MID will tell you to Check Headlight/Taillight every so often, but you should be doing that anyway
 
HTH, Al. 
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05omegav6

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #1 on: 03 January 2012, 08:35:08 »

Just to add:

The ECU wiring goes through the Bulkhead behind the Glovebox and over the Pollen Filter.
The wiring from the Coolant Bottle/Washer Bottle/Oil Level goes through the Bulkhead next to the Brake Servo.
This side can be accessed by remving the screw from the RH end of the scuttle and lifting the trim up, also there is a foam pad behind the Instrument Cluster. Removing this will give access to the cabin side of the wiring grommet.

I made up partial looms for the engine bay connectors using the original plugs and extending the looms accordingly. This was because although the wiring for the level sensors was present in the engine bay, I could find no evidence of them behind the dashboard so ran the wires direct to the MID. Earths for these were directed to existing earthing points.

To save repeating myself, the instrument cluster and other bits and bobs that need to be moved are all well documented either here or in the fantasic Book of Blocks.

Enjoy, and remember tea and biccie breaks. :y
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Sehen

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #2 on: 03 January 2012, 10:17:28 »

Just to reply on the existing connectors for the levelsensors, they goes in the main loom to the two big connectors that locates on the left footwell, both on LHD and LHD cars. (behind the cickpanel) Called X1
This must be the easiest way to connect the leads from the MID.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but thats what i found out when changing the dash loom om my last Omega  :y :y

Steve
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98 Omega 2,5V6 Man. Homemade from a 2,0Auto

05omegav6

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #3 on: 03 January 2012, 10:22:33 »

Nice idea, but when I traced the wiring in through the bulkhead, the wire for the sensors 'dissappeared'. Hence having to make up the looms ::)
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05omegav6

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #4 on: 28 February 2012, 12:07:42 »

Also just to add:

This guide was written following the fitting of a MID to an ex plod 3.2 V6. Other engines/models should be similar, but please double check before cutting/soldering any wiring in the car :y
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Jimbob

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #5 on: 28 February 2012, 12:25:18 »

Is this ready to go live, posts 1 and 2?  or do you want to merge them in a new thread and ill move that?

cheers

05omegav6

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Re: Swapping TID to MID
« Reply #6 on: 28 February 2012, 12:49:53 »

Morning Jimbob :y 

I think merged as one thread would be best, as the later posts are relevant to the guide as a whole.

Much obliged, as ever,

Al :y
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