Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[biggriffin]

Hardest part with doing the exhaust on the drive is lifting it all up,  ensure you have some good drill bits for drilling out the flanges on the downpipes, as them bolts 99% of the time snap,  I use to drill them out with a 5/16 bit, and replace with M8 nuts bolts and washers.

[Nick W]

Well I only have a set of ramps so changing an exhaust would be a tall order and I don't have a garage. A patch I will check out tomorrow  as it's just before the joint on the back box almost touching in fact. Just wondered on brand and price with having 3.2 exhaust twin backbox instead of single/Is the slot out of bumper big enough? etc

45 minute job, on your own, in the street with just one pair of axle stands. Add another 15 minutes if you have to drill the system to cat mounting studs.

You refit it loosely from the front to the back, tightening in the same order when you're happy with the fit. The Eternal systems recommended here are well priced, good quality and value, and fit well.


The twin tailpipes are purely aesthetic if you like that sort of thing; they're no 'better' than a single pipe back box.


The earlier cars used a slimmer bumper so the tailpipes are slightly shorter than facelifts. Personally, I think the shorter pipe looks better on a FL, but I'd rather not see the exhaust at all.

[terry paget]

I find drilling out the old screws tricky, and prefer to release the existing screws with a blow torch. I much preferred the Senator arrangement, using nuts and bolts as original equipment. There I could easily snap the bolts, or grind their heads off.

[Enceladus]

There are no 'donut' gaskets between the front catalytic downpipes and the centre boxes. At least not if you are using factory fit or standard aftermarket equivalent parts. The flanges on each section should bolt tightly together and a smear of exhaust assembly paste on the pipe ends is all you should need.

The link below shows the two metal rings at the bottom of the picture (metal gaskets). This is how mine is, and my previous Omega. 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjsk8GM2JrmAhXMzKQKHf0UDGEQjRx6BAgBEAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.auspuffshop-geiz.de%2FAuspuffanlage-OPEL-OMEGA-B-3-2&psig=AOvVaw211s4K6lyWAowXLylxf4bc&ust=1575500784607705

There are no donut gaskets shown on the Vauxhall /Opel EPC. That P.582 gasket seems to be to fit the Bosal exhaust you linked to. Nor is there any x-ref to a GM part number. So likely means the Bosal exhaust  boxes are not proper clones of the original parts.

If you look at the end of a correctly made centre pipe and the mating end of the cat pipes you can see why no gasket is required.

Nor is such a gasket shown in the Walker catalogue for a 2.6 (estate), since the OP mentioned Walker exhausts. Also of note is that Walker don't list anything for a 3.2.

When I last looked at one of these it did look as if there was something in between the flanges. Turned out to be the remains of some exhaust repair paste where somebody was trying to fix a hole in the end of the centre pipe.

[Webby the Bear]

I’ll just stick with the pot of jizz to seal it. That’s worked for over 6 years for me.

As for the threaded bits I’d drilled mine out many moons ago so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

[Andy B]

....
 so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

2 x M8  13mm is the spanner size 

[Enceladus]

I use M8 copper all metal self locking flange nuts (exhaust manifold nuts). These have the distorted thread arrangement used in the suspension and steering nuts etc., so not the nyloc type. Won't come loose.

[BazaJT]

As I understand it the cat back systems for all the V6s are the same other than the 3.0/3.2 had a twin outlet backbox a standard where the 2.5/2.6 had a single tailpipe*

* The saloon system differs from the estate system,so make sure you order one for the body style you have.

[gbh]

It's the original GM exhaust I presume with 60000 on the clock so it's had a good run.Cat to mid section joint looking quite rusty anything I can do to improve it? Also 1 cat has a whole threw the bottom protection plate about an inch diameter again anything I can do to preserve/repair it before further damage is done?

[Webby the Bear]

....
 so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

2 x M8  13mm is the spanner size 

🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry Andy 👍👍👍

[Andy B]

....
 so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

2 x M8  13mm is the spanner size 

🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry Andy 👍👍👍

 

[terry paget]

I’ll just stick with the pot of jizz to seal it. That’s worked for over 6 years for me.

As for the threaded bits I’d drilled mine out many moons ago so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

I have always used Loctite SI 5990 high temperature copper silicone sealant, and never had a failure.

[Andy B]

I’ll just stick with the pot of jizz to seal it. That’s worked for over 6 years for me.

As for the threaded bits I’d drilled mine out many moons ago so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

I have always used Loctite SI 5990 high temperature copper silicone sealant, and never had a failure.

Trouble being that the bolt usually shears because the bolt was fitted dry in the first place .... had they been wiped with something in the first place they're come out easier.

[terry paget]

I’ll just stick with the pot of jizz to seal it. That’s worked for over 6 years for me.

As for the threaded bits I’d drilled mine out many moons ago so just 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts each side now 👍

I have always used Loctite SI 5990 high temperature copper silicone sealant, and never had a failure.

Trouble being that the bolt usually shears because the bolt was fitted dry in the first place .... had they been wiped with something in the first place they're come out easier.

Torque setting is only 18Nm, but I agree if original assembly was dry rust can make them difficult to dismantle. I have found that heating to red heat usually releases them.

[Enceladus]

It's the original GM exhaust I presume with 60000 on the clock so it's had a good run.Cat to mid section joint looking quite rusty anything I can do to improve it? Also 1 cat has a whole threw the bottom protection plate about an inch diameter again anything I can do to preserve/repair it before further damage is done?

Would be useful if you could post up a picture of the hole. So we can understand exactly where you mean?

As to the rusty joints between the Cats and centre sections; the cats pipes are likely OK as factory Cats are stainless. Just clean any crud from the ends with a wire brush. The floating flanges might also need cleaning with a wire brush as they are mild steel and any broken bolts night need to be drilled out. The Cat side flanges have M8 tapped holes.

The ends of the centre sections might well be rusted through and beyond economic repair. The centre sections are likely also rusted through where the meet the rear silencer. Hence a complete Cat back system is the norm. The boxes themselves are pretty robust.