Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: GmasterT on 14 June 2016, 12:23:25
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Afternoon all, I've had a search but can't find anything current! Anyone got a link to the yellow to grey mid plug change
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Here you go,all credit to MarksDTM posted on Vauxhallownersnetwork.
Two connector pin out:
Yellow connector:
Pin 1 - Red - To F12 (20A)
Pin 2 - Brown - To Chassis (0V)
Pin 3 - Blue/White stripe - Outside temp sensor
Pin 4 - Blue - Outside temp sensor
Pin 5 - Black - To F15 (15A)
Pin 6 - Grey/Green stripe - To F26 (10A)
Pin 7 - Grey/Yellow stripe - Instrument Illumination (dimmer controled)
Pin 8 - Red/Grey Stripe - Radio (aerial power feed i.e. Radio on indication)
Pin 9 - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin10 - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin11 - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin12 - Blue/red stripe - Speed signal (from ABS controller)
Pin13 - NC
Pin14 - Brown/White Stripe - To pin 8 of diag connector (to support programming)
Pin15 - Black/Yellow stripe - To check control
Pin16 - Black - To F2 (15A)
Pin17 - White/Green stripe - To check control
Pin18 - Black/Yellow stripe - To check control
Pin19 - Yellow/Red stripe - To brake pad wear sensors
Pin20 - NC
Pin21 - NC
Pin22 - NC
Pin23 - Grey - To Auto transmission
Pin24 - NC
Pin25 - NC
Pin26 - NC
Black Connector
Pin 1 - Brown/Blue stripe - To fuel pump relay (i.e. engine running)
Pin 2 - NC
Pin 3 - Brown/Blue stripe - Coolant level sensor
Pin 4 - Brown - To chassis (0V)
Pin 5 - Brown/White Stripe - Computer stalk buttons
Pin 6 - Brown/Red Stripe - Computer stalk buttons
Pin 7 - NC
Pin 8 - Blue/Black Stripe - Fuel level sender
Pin 9 - Black/Brown Stripe - ECU signal
Pin 10 - Brown/Yellow Stripe - Washer Level sensor
Pin 11 - Brown/Grey Stripe - Oil level sensor
Pin 12 - NC
grey connector info, in the brackets is the equivalent earlier MID pin info (Y=Yellow con and B=Black con)
Pin1(Y2) - Brown - To Chassis (0V)
Pin2(Y3) - Blue/White stripe - Outside temp sensor
Pin3(Y4)- Blue - Outside temp sensor
Pin4(Y5) - Black - To F15 (15A)
Pin5(Y1) - Red - To F12 (20A)
Pin6 - Green - RPM signal
Pin7(Y7) - Grey/Yellow stripe - Instrument Illumination (dimmer controled)
Pin8(Y8) - Red/Grey(white) Stripe - Radio (aerial power feed i.e. Radio on indication)
Pin9(Y9) - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin10(Y10) - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin11(Y11) - Brown/White Stripe - Radio Serial Interface
Pin12(B8) - Blue/Black Stripe - Fuel level sender
Pin13(B11) - Brown/Grey Stripe - Oil level sensor
Pin14(Y14) - Brown/White Stripe - To pin 8 of diag connector (to support programming)
Pin15(Y15) - Black/Yellow stripe - To check control
Pin16(Y16) - Black - To F2 (15A)
Pin17(Y17) - White/Green stripe - To check control
Pin18(Y18) - Black/Yellow stripe - To check control
Pin19(Y19) - Yellow/Red stripe - To brake pad wear sensors
Pin20 - NC
Pin21(Y23) - Grey - To Auto transmission
Pin22(B10) - Brown/Yellow Stripe - Washer Level sensor
Pin23(B5) - Brown/White Stripe - Computer stalk buttons
Pin24(B6) - Brown/Red Stripe - Computer stalk buttons
Pin25 - NC
Pin26(Y12) - Blue/red stripe - Speed signal (from ABS controller)
Pin27(B9) - Black/Brown Stripe - ECU signal
Pin28(B3) - Brown/Blue stripe - Coolant level sensor
Pin29 - Black/Violet Stripe - To Hid lighting
Pin30 - To Diesel fuel pump (X20DTH only)
The rpm signal (green wire on the one plug version) had to be taken from the clocks, otherwise fuel consumption didn't work... also the outside temperature was not correctly displayed (temperature readout started to climb from about 22 c to 69( in autumn :) ) till it showed F at last ) swapped the wires so it works perfectly now.
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Worth its weight in gold!
(being digital information I suppose it has no mass, so no weight, strictly speaking that's an insult! :D)
Thanks to Mark and yourself annihilator :y
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Also a guide on here for retrofitting Mid to Tid equipped cars :y
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only 2 years on and still trying to sort this :D
"Pin28(B3) - Brown/Blue stripe - Coolant level sensor" is incorrect should be pin 20 on the grey plug to pin B3 on the black plug.
Also having no luck with displaying fuel consumption/range etc. which is presumably handled by this
"The rpm signal (green wire on the one plug version) had to be taken from the clocks, otherwise fuel consumption didn't work" I presume this means connect the green direct to the green on the multiplug behind the instrument pack which I've done but still get the F in the MFD.
Anyone got this working?
Cheers John.
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What year is your car?
Guide was written on an '54 3.2.
If pre or mid facelift, then use the wiring diagrams in Haynes :y
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I'm using Haynes which is how I spotted the coolant sensor difference it's the f fault that has me stumped as the info seems to tally with what's in Haynes.
It's a '97 2.5V6 manual.
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What head unit/display do you have?
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Also guide was yellow to grey, not a black plug to be seen :-\
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Early pre face-lift mfd's had a yellow and black plug which suffered with pixellation with age hence the swap to later single grey plug type which doesn't. If you'd read the full wiring list you'll soon catch on. Head unit is of no consequence.
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Ah, OK. Makes a bit more sense.
Is the green on the back of the instrument cluster at Pin 22?
Also how are you swapping the plugs? By moving pins or joining wires? Be mindful that the pins aren't a great fit iirc.
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Have just had a look at the diagrams. All you can do is list the pinouts for both types and cross reference them.
The guide here is of limited use as it is to swap from a TID (yellow plug) to a late Mid (grey plug).
So go back and cross check every pinouts. Can't be much more help without actually being there.
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Did this a couple of years ago on my 94 opel omega mv6. Also had the coolant level problem until i changed pin 28/20. The old pins locked OK in the new connector when i bent the pins locking tabs a bit extra. Had to change fuel sender and instrument print plate in mine as the 94 and some 95 cars have a different setup for fuel sender. Shouldnt be a problem on a 97 car though. Got Opel to program the new mid to the right engine/gearbox and wheel size and everything worked great. Mid must be programmed according to the age of the mid and not the cars age. So in my 94 car i got them to program the new mid to a 98 3,0 auto.
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Hi,did you change the sender in the fuel tank and was it the pcb or fuel gauge you had to change.
A few pics of what I've got
(https://s8.postimg.cc/iku1xffud/P1060084.jpg) (https://s8.postimg.cc/wsjqlxfmt/P1060085.jpg)
top ones green pcb are the '97 V6 whilst the lower blue pcb is '98 mini-facelift
if I fit the mini facelift pack the F fault seems to disappear but the warning lamps either don't work or come on for the wrong thing.
Thanks John.
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Don't get long to edit your post >:(
Anyway forgot to mention when using the mini facelift instruments I got a figure in the range display not an F.
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Fit the grey plug MID to the '97 cluster and call it done :y
Alternative is to rearrange the pins on the back of the cluster socket to correspond to the '98 cluster... :D
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Both those instrument clusters seems like the new type to me. The old type 94/95 had rev counter divided in 250 rpm intervalls and speedo in 5 km/h intervalls. Those had different fuel senders. But all others from late 95 to end of production should use the same sender. Those had 500 rpm intervalls on rev counter and 10 km/h intervall on the speedo on the Opel versions. So in my 94 car i used a grey plug mid from a 98. Got mid programmed to 98 3,0 auto. Got the new type fuel sender and a speedo from 97/98 somewhere(green foil back). That worked great, but i ended up taking the white backplate from the new speedo with the print circuits and mated it to the rest of the 94 speedo just to keep the odometer correct and retain the original look.
But since your car is newer you should not have these issues. Original speedo in your car and original fuel sender should be OK with the grey plug mid. But is the mid programmed correctly?
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Both those instrument clusters seems like the new type to me. The old type 94/95 had rev counter divided in 250 rpm intervalls and speedo in 5 km/h intervalls. Those had different fuel senders. But all others from late 95 to end of production should use the same sender. Those had 500 rpm intervalls on rev counter and 10 km/h intervall on the speedo on the Opel versions. So in my 94 car i used a grey plug mid from a 98. Got mid programmed to 98 3,0 auto. Got the new type fuel sender and a speedo from 97/98 somewhere(green foil back). That worked great, but i ended up taking the white backplate from the new speedo with the print circuits and mated it to the rest of the 94 speedo just to keep the odometer correct and retain the original look.
But since your car is newer you should not have these issues. Original speedo in your car and original fuel sender should be OK with the grey plug mid. But is the mid programmed correctly?
Top cluster is '97, lower one '98 :y
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Did you figure this out yet? Cause i did just now:) bought a third omega. A 97 2,0 estate. One owner car has done just 60.000km. Had a tid fitted but it was completely gone. Only about 5 pixels still working. Figured out i would buy a grey plug mid since i needed a display anyway and dont want to be annoyed with pixel failures. Ran into the same problem you did. Radio info, and check control worked fine, but fuel computer functions was dead. Started crosschecking the pin list in this theead (which i followed) with Haynes. Turns out whoever wrote this list mixed up the wire colours on fuel sender and speed sensor. Pin 12 and pin 26 on the grey plug needs to be switched around. 12 should be blue/red and 26 should be blue/black. Everything working great now.
Also job was much easier than it seems in the guide. This poverty spec 97 with a tid had ALL the wiring in place already. Yellow plug obviously in the tid, but the black plug with the rest og the wires was taped up just behind it. And behind the fuse box the multipin connector for the bulb control was present. Also wiring for the new stalk was present in the steering coloumn. Only needed the mid with plug, new stalk, bulb control unit and the various sensors in the engine bay. Wiring present for them to:) Happy days!
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As I said in the guide, it was done on a 2004 police spec 3.2 manual using Haynes as a reference.
Many of the facelift wiring trace colours are slightly different although the primary colours are mostly the same, and that car had NONE of the sensor wiring present so it was all a ballache.
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Cheers MonzaGse will try that, I'd come to the conclusion it must be an wiring diagram error as I tried 2 different omegas with the same f fault.
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Cheers MonzaGse will try that, I'd come to the conclusion it must be an wiring diagram error as I tried 2 different omegas with the same f fault.
This is possible... Since writing the guide, I now have the facelift factory diagrams, but not the earlier ones... Perhaps someone with TIS could confirm the accuracy of Haynes MID wiring diagram :-\
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For whats it worth, heres what i found when installing a grey connector mid in a 1997 tid equipped omega 2,0 estate. Pin diagram at the start of this thread was followed with the following exceptions:
Pin13 oil level sender is listed as brown/grey at least in the pfl omega its brown/green.
Pin 12 is listed as fuel level sender blue/black. On the grey plug mid pin 12 should be speed signal blue/red.
Pin 26 is listed as speed signal blue/red. This should be fuel sender blue/black.
Coolant level sender is listed at pin 28, but this should be at pin 20.
I also found on at least this pfl omega that in addition to the yellow connector for the tid, the 12p black connector with the rest of the wiring was taped up right behind it. The connector for bulb control was plugged in to a blank cover behind the fuse box, and wiring for the stalk was in place in the connector where the old non mid wiper stalk was plugged in(variable wipe). Coolant level connector was clipped to a holder by the coolant bottle and connectors for the front brake pad warnings where clipped to their «sockets on the inner wings.
However washer fluid sensor connector was missing. Wires to this ended in the connector to the washer bottle loom. Also bottle on pfl should have sensor in the short side wall on the left side. Bottle is not prepared for a sensor(no Hole). So new bottle with wiring loom to sensor, and the two pumps is required. (Or make up wires those last 20cm and drill a Hole for the sensor in the bottle). Oil level sensor wiring ended in the big round connector attached to the battery wall. (The one closest to the engine) short circuited these wires with a paper clip inside that connector and the warning went away. Washer level and coolant level i will retrofit since these are smaller Jobs than the oil sensor.
Just wrote this down for future reference for those attempting this on a preface Omega.
Edit: Checked all my connections against Haynes wiring diag and afaik Haynes was correct on all pins. Everything is working except i got coolant and wiper fluid warnings. Logical since i havent got the sensors in place yet:)
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Congratulations :y swapped over the 2 wires you suggested and now have a figure in my range setting
(https://s22.postimg.cc/twzoe71c1/P1060090.jpg)
Thanks again John
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I see both of you have non facelift cars...
The guide I wrote was on a late facelift car using bits robbed from another facelift car of similar age. I did say at the time to cross reference everything and that the detail may not apply to other models.
Had you followed the Haynes diagrams rather than the facelift guide, then you shouldn't have had any problems...
Glad both sorted though :y
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Unless you also use the name MarksDTM I wasn't following your guide as I already had full MFD functionality and was just replacing the old style display which had lost most of it's pixels.
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Unless you also use the name MarksDTM I wasn't following your guide as I already had full MFD functionality and was just replacing the old style display which had lost most of it's pixels.
:D lol, that one's all Mark ;) mine was the TID to MID one ;)
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Just for clarification, i was also talking about the markdtm pin list quoted at the beginning of this thread:) since my car had all the cabin/dashwiring inplace allready congrats on your working mid btw anihilator!