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Messages - Jay w

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1
Maintenance Guides / wiring in an amp (part 2)
« on: 14 August 2006, 16:14:30 »
today i got on with the amp itself, i knew where it was going and last night i had a quick look to see if there were going to be any issues that were glaringing obvious.

First job was to strip out the rear shelf and blind assembly, i have done a how to on the in the past so i won't repeat myself here.
once that's out you are left with this, the screws to undo the bose tray have been circled


Once they are undone you then have 2 clip near the back window, unclip them and the tray will drop down, it may be worth having someone there to grab it
Into the boot and this is what you will be presented with....a Bose amp in a tray....


The blue connector does everything, inputs, outputs, power, ground and remote




The wiring goes something like this
Red - power
brown - earth
red/white - remote

you then have 4 wires, all of them black, they are the inputs, when you strip them back you will find a shield wire, positive and negative speaker cable, the colours of thew wires will correspond with the colors of the wires going back to the speakers

you then have
2 white/brown
2 white            NSR door and parcel shelf speaker

2 green/brown
2 green           OSR door and parcel shelf speakers

1 yellow/brown
1 yellow           OSF door speakers

1 blue/brown
1 blue           NSF door speakers

with the tray out and the blue multiplug cut away from the loom the next job was to cut the tray as the Alpine is a little bit bigger than the tray


A couple of dremel bits later and this is the end result, we had to take out the middle pillar as the amp will be sat right on top of it



from here it was plain sailing, connect up the power feed i had threaded yesterday, find a suitable earth point, connect up the phono leads and speaker connectors and away we go

As you can see the Alpine is a 'little' bigger than the tray, but it fits in there ok....


and in place , all bolted up.....



from here it was a case of fitting it all back together and making sure it all ran fine

the sound is brilliant, a lot richer than the bose amp, although i my have to turn the hi pass filter off as it does get a bit too bassey through the standard speakers.

Next step will be the subs and corresponding amp, that will not take any time at all now as all the donkey work has been done on that, just plug and play

2
Maintenance Guides / wiring in an amp
« on: 13 August 2006, 20:36:17 »
seeing as how we have a few people who have been asking, and seeing as i started mine toninght i though i would pake some piccys and make some notes.

My plan os to fit an alpine amp in place of my bose, in addition to wire up an second amp that will run twox12 subs, i am not after all out power, merely a nicer sounding system that covers a greater range than currently.

First this was to route to power cable through to the back of the car, i have chosen 8 guage cable to do this.

underbonnet first, find a location for the inline 50amp fuse that will be used for the amps:
the fusebox seemed a pretty good place, it's dry and descreet

top off and then pull out the ECU as the fuse will be screwed to this

once i hade marked the backplpate and drilled it

It was a cast of threading the wire from the battery and another wire off to the rear of the car, this is the box with the fuse installed, the holes for the wire to thread through were already there

the put the top back on, make sure everything was in place and then time to move on to the bulkhead.

Hillper had kindly advised me of two routes, one was a grommet by the pollen filter, this one was supposed to be the more difficult of the two, the other was a case of running the cable under the scuttle and across to the drivers side of the bulkhead where there is an unused grommet that is easier to use (auto facelifts, not sure about any of the others)
I choce the harder route ( i like a challenge at times, it was made harder by virtue of the face the airbag gets in the way and the generally isn't a lot of space up behind the dash, so i cheated, i removed the passenger vent, it gave me better access to the correct part of the bulkhead.
When you lift the scuttle and look to the side of the pollen filter housing you will see two big grommets, i went for the lower of the two, this mean thatt he cable came through at an easier height to get at

that was the hardest part over, the remainder took me about 15 mins to do.
Next step is to remove the treadplates along the length of the car and also the reat seat bolster, all of this is so the cable can be threaded through the car

Once youi have removed the covers you will see 4 torx screw in the front and 2 in the rear as well as 1 on the B pillar, to get the covers off you need a flat ended screwdriver to prise them up

the rear bolster is simple, unclip the lower section of the seat, look at the bottom of the bolster and you will see a body coloured tongue, pull it back and slide the bolster out, this will give you access to the wiring loom as it goes into the boot area


then it is a case of fitting it all back together.

one thing to remember, until the power lead is wired into the amp do not connect it to the battery or install the fuse.

More to follow tomorrow

Thanks for Hillper, Laidback and sounds2K for help so far [smiley=thumbsup.gif]


3
Maintenance Guides / Centre dash panel removal
« on: 13 July 2006, 00:05:40 »
Mods/Admin, if you want to move this then feel free

Centre panel removal………

Tools needed
Philips headed screwdriver, double din stereo removal tool, radio code

In order to remove the centre panel you will need to remove the stereo, undo the 4 grub screws and pull out the stereo with the removal tools.

Once the stereo is out the cage will then need pulling out, to do this pull the top and bottom together in order to squeeze it out of the aperture, before doing this don’t\ forget there is a screw at the back of the cage that holds it to the dash, it would normally be where the circle is.

Once the cage is out remove the multiplugs and the aerial connector, this frees up the cage, from there you will need to remove the ashtray and mechanism. Open the ashtray and remove the ashtray insert (the bit that you empty) and look behind the ashtray, you will see a Philips headed screw, remove this and the whole ashtray assembly will come out, undo the two Philips headed screws at the top of the facia panel (circled) from there you can get at the second part of the centre panel.

Removing the switches is a case of slowly prising them out, some of them are very difficult.

Once the facia has been removed and the multiplugs disconnected from the facia the six screws holding the second part to the dash can be removed.

Before removing the second part you will need to remove the live feed for the ashtray, this is held in place at the bottom of the second part

it undoes by compressing the two clips together.
Once the second part is out of the way you then have access to the wiring, heating trunking, temp sensors (ECC models)

To Coin a phrase from the Haynes manual 'refitting is the reverse of removal'

4
Maintenance Guides / Rear blind removal
« on: 13 July 2006, 00:01:44 »
Rear parcel shelf/sunblind removal for Omega saloon

In order to get the parcel shelf out you will need to remove the base of the seat by pulling the two black handles and lifting the base out of its locating slots. If it an Elite don’t forget that you will have the wiring for the heated seats that will need to be disconnected


Once the seat base has been removed from the car the fixed edges of the seat back then need to be removed, these are held in place by a metal tongue at the bottom of the seat that will need to be bent back to allow the edging to be removed


Once the bottom has been freed you will then need to gently push the edging upwards to release it from the top bracket



This needs to be done on both sides

From there you need to start stripping all the extras from the shelf, I started with the headrests and then the sleeves, there are 4 shelf coloured clips that  hold the shelf in place, they don’t become visible until the rear seat is folded down. As well as the clips there is the armrest turn clip (in the centre of the pic below) this needs to be unscrewed



Once the clips have been removed go on to remove the black rubber boots for the seat back retainers speaker covers, centre seatbelt trim, and also the two grey trims that form part of the access hole for the boot.
Into the boot now and the shelf is held on by 3x10mm headed locknuts, if the car has a plastic tray situated over these don’t panic, an extension bar with a 10mm socket will still undo them as the plastic tray has holes in it for this situation.
Whilst in the boot look in the far left hand corner, there will be a multiplugs connector, this is the power supply for the blind, this has to be disconnected
With the nuts undo, back in the car and now start to pull the shelf out. There are 3 white plastic clips that will be holding it in place still, there sometimes require a sharp tug to free them, in addition the C pillar trims make it a little more difficult to get the shelf out, others have found removing those trim pieces helps with removal and refitting
You should now have the shelf out. The underside will look like this


The blind is held on by 6x10mm nuts, once these are undone it will separate from the shelf
The motor is held in place with 3xT20 torx headed screws and 1xT10 that holds the motor to the mechanism, once these are undone the motor will separate from the blind assembly


If the gears have sheared/come apart then when you open up the motor these will be damaged


There are 3xT10 torx screws holding the cover on, BE AWARE, there are springs behind the cover, if the gears have become damaged they could possibly recoil once the cover is removed.

Time taken to strip and refit was about 1.5 hours, I have never done this in the past so it was a case of looking round for the solution as to why something wouldn’t come apart

If there is anything i have missed feel free to let me know

5
if you look on the Nokia website at the spec on your current car kit it should advise you of its functionality :y

6
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: In car freeview
« on: 31 January 2009, 21:23:53 »
i had one in a Zafira......

It was crap on the move, however it was about 4 years ago and the digital signal has improved.

And another aerial was required

7
i dont beleive there are any that are not supplied by vauxhall/opel

8
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having ripped out my CCR2006 from my CDX and fitted a new stereo in i would say get the head unit running first and then assess if the speakers need replacing?

The speakers in the Omega CDX should be 4ohms so they are more then good enough as a starting point  

Jay W

Interested in what you thought of your speakers with the Kenwood fitted??

they are ok, certainly not sound off quality but for my requirements they do the job  ;)

9
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Very many thanks for the info Dave, happy with harness and steering adaptors.

Any thoughts on replacing the speakers?

Would it make a significant difference, what sizes?

having ripped out my CCR2006 from my CDX and fitted a new stereo in i would say get the head unit running first and then assess if the speakers need replacing?

The speakers in the Omega CDX should be 4ohms so they are more then good enough as a starting point  :y

selling? ;)

sorry mate, keeping just in case i sell the \cdx and want to transfer the Kenwood

10
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Very many thanks for the info Dave, happy with harness and steering adaptors.

Any thoughts on replacing the speakers?

Would it make a significant difference, what sizes?

having ripped out my CCR2006 from my CDX and fitted a new stereo in i would say get the head unit running first and then assess if the speakers need replacing?

The speakers in the Omega CDX should be 4ohms so they are more then good enough as a starting point  :y

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: MID stalk reset faulty.
« on: 14 December 2008, 19:52:07 »
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press and hold for about 2s, display will go --- which means current function reset

press and hold for another couple of secs, display goes *** which means all functions reset

you mean i have been going through all the menus and resetting for nothing  >:( >:(

12
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: heated seat problam
« on: 15 December 2008, 22:04:29 »
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as its an MV6 this might be worth a try

if you have Leather with the posh extended sports thigh supports then swap that round with the passengers seat worked on myn! now Mrs TMX has the cold arse  ;D


wouldnt the air bags then be on the wrong side of the seat ÖS

not if you only swap the bases over

13
i have the DNX5220 with all the additional modules on it, cost without the steering wheel controls and fascia plate was about £650.....

yes it is a lot of case but it is very good indeed, it was easy to fit, dead easy to set up and is customisable in so many ways

we travelled down to the south of france, we had an additional 2 TV's rigged up in the back and the head unit was running them playing a DVD with the sound coming out of the rear speakers only, we have music in the front from the Ipod running through it and the sat nav was on all the way as well, it dealt with it all in its stride

14
i have the Kenwood DNX5220 in my CDX, it is brilliant

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1214684463/0

i spent anther £45 and got the steering wheel controls and, it even deals with the phone when a call is incoming or i want to hang up....

the stereo will do CD/DVD/iPod/Reversing camera/TV (you have to buy a tuner for that) and will allow you to run more screens in the back
Sat Nav is Garmin and is as good as anything else out there, bluetooth connection for the phone

The only other thing i had to buy was a fascia plate for it, that cost £45

the Stereo cost about £650 but is worth every penny :y

15
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for the last few months i have been gathering kit together to upgrade my stereo....

I have gone for infinity components speakers in the front and back doors and am no looking round for some decent 6'' single cones to go in the back shelf as well as a nice 'meaty' amp to drive it all.....

If i can i will use a similar amp to the one i had in the gold Elite a MRV407-4/6 Alpine, that was a really nice amp that gave a cracking sound  

How much did the speakers cost?

each set of inifinity's have cost me about £45, and that's for 5 1/4 with seperate tweeter, crossover and wiring.

I still have to get a load of oxygen free speaker cable to run around the car, a amp wiring kit, some high quality phono leads and then rip the interior out so i can do the install and clean up the interior

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