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[Marks DTM Calib]

Hmm, they look deeper than I thought

Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet

Be carefull !!  

Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing  

Yes, I am aware of the load sensing, but take it from a speaker fitting specialist, as soon as the thin edge of that glass hits the magnet it will shatter instantly, way before enough pressure has been applied for the load sensing circuits to come into effect.  Whilst the top edge is nice and polished to prevent fingers getting jammed, it is not often the case with the lower edge, which tends to be much rougher in its cut. Seen it happen far too many times.

 

There is also a large steel channel along the bottom, I would fear for the speaker frame!

[cem_devecioglu]

As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..

if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..

ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..

[Dave DND]

Hmm, they look deeper than I thought

Make sure window is fully down when taking measurements as the power of the window motors could easily shatter the window if forced against the magnet

Be carefull !!  

Not on an Omega.....they have load sensing  

Yes, I am aware of the load sensing, but take it from a speaker fitting specialist, as soon as the thin edge of that glass hits the magnet it will shatter instantly, way before enough pressure has been applied for the load sensing circuits to come into effect.  Whilst the top edge is nice and polished to prevent fingers getting jammed, it is not often the case with the lower edge, which tends to be much rougher in its cut. Seen it happen far too many times.

 

There is also a large steel channel along the bottom, I would fear for the speaker frame!

Channels seldom run teh full length of the window though, usually a few inches of bare glass at each end

 

[doog]

just missed it  8-)

[Kevin Wood]

I had a similar problem fitting my speakers and a ring of 6mm MDF between the speaker and adaptor spaced it out just enough. Speakers didn't look as deep as those, though, and my car is a facelift.

Is there a rubber anti-resonant ring around the magnet at the back of the speaker or is that all magnet? Just thinking you could remove the rubber ring if needs must.

Kevin

[doog]

magnet all the way to the back
I remember i had a set of mission speakers that had that rubber ring and fitted in a car after i removed this

shame would have saved alot of problems

Doug

[doog]

As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..

if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..

ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..

the speakers are not a larger diameter they are still 6 1/2 inch they are however deeper i have already spaced them out but its not enough and i am almost out of room before I hit the door card

 I am not trying to get more bass out of my front doors i do however want high quality high power handling speakers that dont distort if you feed a reasonable  amount of power  i will run a high pass filter probably around the 80hz mark

while i am on  the whole idea of a subwoofer is to re-enforce the bass  so you have a full range of frequencys  i dont want THUMP THUMP THUMP i grew out of that almost 20 years ago

In most cars i have heard the sub can be heard working  and you know its in the boot   i dont want sound like that  i want most of the work done by the front speakers and a little re-enforcement of the bottom end by the subwoofer.
ps i have plans to build a transmission line sub cab probably running a single JL 8" or 10"  since i have a large enough boot for it now

Doug

[Miggy24]

Im after putting new speakers in mt car.What speakers do you think will be best i dont really want to be building spaces for them

[Marks DTM Calib]

As an idea I would keep the doors as it is , and would use spacers to mount..

if you cut the doors vibration and resonance can increase also..

ps: reason to use large diameter speakers is to have better bass sound that will bring problem inside the door, much better to use the trunk instead I think..

the speakers are not a larger diameter they are still 6 1/2 inch they are however deeper i have already spaced them out but its not enough and i am almost out of room before I hit the door card

 I am not trying to get more bass out of my front doors i do however want high quality high power handling speakers that dont distort if you feed a reasonable  amount of power  i will run a high pass filter probably around the 80hz mark
while i am on  the whole idea of a subwoofer is to re-enforce the bass  so you have a full range of frequencys  i dont want THUMP THUMP THUMP i grew out of that almost 20 years ago

In most cars i have heard the sub can be heard working  and you know its in the boot   i dont want sound like that  i want most of the work done by the front speakers and a little re-enforcement of the bottom end by the subwoofer.
ps i have plans to build a transmission line sub cab probably running a single JL 8" or 10"  since i have a large enough boot for it now

Doug

Realy? I guess you are using an electronic filter or a headunit setting.....as a series cap would need to be 470uF and its not easy to ge a non-polarised one of those  

[doog]

yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking"  in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker

do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up

Doug

[Marks DTM Calib]

yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking"  in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker

do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up

Doug

Ow yes as they offer the lowest distortion option for true Hifi (which can not be achieved in a car for real use)

Reality is that creating a good passive crossover is not easy at all as you need to take a lot more than just the just the speaker resistance into account. Last one I did ended up with around 4 sides of A4 in maths having taken most of the speaker parameters into account!

[Martin_1962]

yes its an electronic filter
even most basic ampifiers have some sort of hi and lowpass filters nowadays
i do have electronic cross overs and eq's up the loft somewhere from yesteryear but i found i was never happy and kept "tweaking"  in the end i took them out and went back to a 2 way front speaker

do people still use caps and coils other than in passive crossovers?
last time i done anything like that was for a bandpass crossover when i have a 3 way front door set up

Doug

Ow yes as they offer the lowest distortion option for true Hifi (which can not be achieved in a car for real use)

Reality is that creating a good passive crossover is not easy at all as you need to take a lot more than just the just the speaker resistance into account. Last one I did ended up with around 4 sides of A4 in maths having taken most of the speaker parameters into account!

Scan it then and show us

[Marks DTM Calib]

I will see if I can dig it out of my notes in the loft!

Also used to do a lot of active filter design for bunging in front of power amps (i.e. for sub woofers etc)!

[Martin_1962]

OK Mark how do you get time to learn all of this, I am busy all of the time and still don't know that much about things I like.

Too much time I suppose spent making models than other things!

[Marks DTM Calib]

OK Mark how do you get time to learn all of this, I am busy all of the time and still don't know that much about things I like.

Too much time I suppose spent making models than other things!

You have to remember that I did a degree in Electronic and Electrical Engineering specialising in advanced analogue electronics (including active filter design) and power electronics.

That plus a desire to design my own sub, amps etc means you find the time (and no kids back then!)