Topic: So now I have two broken cars!! (Read 2274 times)

Malachi · « **on:** 10 December 2007, 12:50:50 »

Well after buying my another 2.5 V6 auto elite this has started playing up even though its suppose to have 12 months MOT.

The guy I bought it off denies all responsibilty so I'm stuck with it.I'm wondering whats the best to do as I don't have much money.

Heres what I've got:

1998 2.5 V6 auto CDX
197000 miles
11 months MOT
Currently stuck in emergency manual mode - possible water in gearbox.
1x rear brake light out
my only fob does not work so have to set alarm off when open door then turn off by starting ignition.
However great suspension,shocks,brakes and have been reliably advised that engined has been modified as much better performance and response that usual 2.5

1999 2.5 V6 Auto elite
12 months MOT
*Power steering randomly cuts in and out
*Brakes seem very spongy compared to other car and also unusual click noise from front right when braking.
*A rattly "cloiking"sound from under the car (front left?) when going over bumps. Seems to feel the road and bumps a lot more than other car.
engine is not as quiet as other car, makes a constant clicking noise even when just idling and seems to "complain" more when I push it but again this could be due to the other engine possibly being modified.
Front two heated seats don't work.

Basically the '99 looks a hell of a lot better ( black and black leather interior) and also has a fancy thatham approved alarm but remote start, stop, anti-car jacking etc but at the moment the '98 even with its extra 100000 miles feels smoother, brakes sharper and goes like a bat out of hell but the auto gearbox is not working.

What should I do!! :-/

Please bear in mind that I am not a mechanic so any ideas such as clean out the gear box need to be backed up with a step by step instruction as I will still give it a go but I need a dummy guide!!

Many Thanks

Malachi

hotel21 · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 December 2007, 13:32:05 »

Sounds like fun.... not.

The 99 first....

steering - check fluid level first. If low, top up. Fuse 14 also covers the power steering, as well as cigarette lighter, heated front seats, electrically operated rear window blind, air circulation system, electric air conditioning, heated rear window...

brakes - bleed them properly which will also change the fluid ---- http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1156881883

Check the brake pads for wear, could be the source of the funny noise on braking. Noise more likely to be drop links. see following...

Rattly clonking noise - exhaust heat shields loose (fixed with a screw hose clip to clamp them up) or antiroll bar drop links. Easy, 30 mins per side job. will find pics and howtoo (if there is one) later, meantime, search for drop links and read what you find for clues....

As to the engine making noise, ensure belt and tensioners replaced as per 40k miles/4 years. More probable that a few short oil changes will be needed (3 - 4 k mile intervals) to free of a sticky hydraulic lifter or two. Also check breathers are clear and multirams are working. For the latter two, there are howtoo's in the maint guides area....

The other car may need more 'complicated' work in the form of tech2 reading to get sorted but there are two scanners in the hands of suitable clever folks (Mark_DTM and The Boy) who may be able to assist.

hope this helps a tad...

Malachi · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 December 2007, 14:19:26 »

Out of interest how difficult is it to clean out the gearbox on the old omega and if required change over the selector form the other car, it seems that with this main problem fixed the older car would be better as all i need to do then is replace the rear brake bulb and sort out the fob.

If someone is around my area (West Sussex/London) and could help I would really appreciate it and could come to some kind of arrangement.(getting a lot of earache off the missus for buying a lemon!)

Taxi_Driver · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 December 2007, 19:44:17 »

Quote

Out of interest how difficult is it to clean out the gearbox on the old omega and if required change over the selector form the other car, it seems that with this main problem fixed the older car would be better as all i need to do then is replace the rear brake bulb and sort out the fob.

If someone is around my area (West Sussex/London) and could help I would really appreciate it and could come to some kind of arrangement.(getting a lot of earache off the missus for buying a lemon!)

TBH carnt see how you could have got water in the G/B.......its a sealed unit........

What do you mean its in manual mode??? .......do you mean it wont change at all.....or is in limp mode.........ie starts in 3rd gear so is blooming slow from standstill then selects 4th ok

If the later and in limp mode.......then possibly nothing wrong with G/B.......could be engine ecu complaining about summat and telling G/B to go into limp mode.........

You really need to get the ecu codes read to find out whats it complaining about.......

Theres a guide on here for 'paperclipping' it

Malachi · « **Reply #4 on:** 12 December 2007, 14:09:26 »

Ok, so I have done a perclip test and got 135 which is 'Check engine' lamp (fault code lamp) Low voltage.

Is this whats causing my auto gearbox to go into manual mode? In regards to the last question if in "D" yes it pulls off really slow as its in third but once upto speed is fine and shifts into 4th fine as well. I can manually shift using 1,2,3 and that also works so I can't really see the gearbox itself being faulty otherwise surely it wouldn't work altogether?

Thanks
Malachi

zirk · « **Reply #5 on:** 12 December 2007, 14:15:54 »

I had a Alternater go on a 2.0 GLS Auto once, it put the Auto into perminent Limb mode (ie 3rd)? worth checking!

should read about 13.8 to 14.5 volts across the battery when running, Not Higher!

Chris.

Malachi · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 December 2007, 14:37:30 »

If my alternator wasn't working wouldn't the battery be dead by know its been like this for a few weeks now?

Malachi

Malachi · « **Reply #7 on:** 12 December 2007, 15:14:34 »

Hi,

Just checked the battery and its holding a steady voltage when off and charging at just over 13.5 when running so no problems there.

Any other ideas in regards to the fault code - 135

haj · « **Reply #8 on:** 12 December 2007, 18:49:19 »

Is the engine an x25xE?

If so fault code 135 is ECM-MIL control,wiring open circuit/short to earth

Malachi · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 December 2007, 19:50:28 »

How do i tell if my engine is an x25xE?

And would that problem be the cause of my faulty auto gearbox?

Please help!!

haj · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 December 2007, 20:04:28 »

R/h side of rivers seat in the sil trim there should be a flap under that
is the vehicle identification,i think.

Best to replace the managemant indicator light,must be a kinda fail safe thing,that goes into safe mode.
If a fault occured you would have no indication whilst this lamp is inop.,
Replace lamp see how it drives

Malachi · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 December 2007, 21:03:23 »

Sorry unless I've got the wrong bulb you mean the engine managment on the centre dash display above the handbrake bulb? I know that's definatley working as that the on ethat flashed the code at me, unless I'm being really dumb and getting the wrong bulb?

Oh and the engine is X25XE.

hotel21 · « **Reply #12 on:** 13 December 2007, 10:48:07 »

Quote

Sorry unless I've got the wrong bulb you mean the engine managment on the centre dash display above the handbrake bulb? I know that's definatley working as that the on ethat flashed the code at me, unless I'm being really dumb and getting the wrong bulb?

Oh and the engine is X25XE.

Try this link to confirm the correct paperclip method. Also, watch the video, it shows what you should be seeing....

Malachi · « **Reply #13 on:** 13 December 2007, 10:54:08 »

Hi,

Yes I was doiing it right then as it was that light flashing out the code and it did the 1,2 x3 and then flashed a code of 135, then of 31 (as I didn't have the engine running) and the it started over.

Any idea's on what to do next?

gstylebaby · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 December 2007, 10:55:56 »

HI MATE THE ROAD NOISE ON YOUR BLACK OMEGA COULD BE WISHBONES OR STABILISER ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS WORTH A CHECK THE LINKS DONT LOOK TO HRD TO FIT AND NOT THAT PRICEY ON FLEE BAY AND THE WISHBONES ARE BETTER CHANGED IN ONE GO INSTED OF JUST THE BUSH'ES THE GUYS ON HERE REKON TO GET THEM FROM VAUXHALL AS THERE BETTER QAULITY BUT I'D ALREADY GOT MINE BY THEN. HOPE THIS HELPS.
LEE

Elite Pete · « **Reply #15 on:** 13 December 2007, 12:43:46 »

Check the fluid for the power steering and try turning the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times which will bleed it.

As already pointed out, check brake pads for wear and bleed/change fluid and suspension could be drop links or wishbones. I bet there arn't many heated front seats that work on the older Omegas mine included. All in all the jobs above shouldn't be to expensive and are quite easy to sort

ians · « **Reply #16 on:** 13 December 2007, 12:44:10 »

the clonking could be broken spring. I had a bit about 4" long break off the bottom which sat in the retainning cup at the bottom of the spring - completely invisible but rattled every time you went over a bump.

colalowe · « **Reply #17 on:** 13 December 2007, 12:54:54 »

It sounds like you might have a dodgy ecu on the 98 car, that would explain the gearbox and fob problem, dont know how easy it is to replace though? :-/

Malachi · « **Reply #18 on:** 13 December 2007, 13:13:40 »

Well I would really like to fix the 98' as it runs beautifully otherwise, so does anyone know how easy an ECU is to replace or fix?

All this help is much appreciated

x25xe · « **Reply #19 on:** 13 December 2007, 15:14:39 »

The ABS system on these cars is apparently very sensitive to brake lamp failures / incorrect bulbs. I suspect that replacing the blown lamp with an OE item may well sort the suspected ECU problems. The running problems **could** be due to the ABS ECU.

However, I would check the connections at the gearbox before condemning the ECUs. The ECU that you have "flashed" the codes out of is the Engine Management ECU. You ideally need to get the gearbox codes read as well. For this, you need a code reader. Apparently the chepo Tech 2 can read the gearbox. Alternatively, two members on here have real Tech 2 readers, The Boy and Marks DTM.

Hope this helps in some small way

gstylebaby · « **Reply #20 on:** 13 December 2007, 16:28:12 »

Quote

Check the fluid for the power steering and try turning the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times which will bleed it.

As already pointed out, check brake pads for wear and bleed/change fluid and suspension could be drop links or wishbones. I bet there arn't many heated front seats that work on the older Omegas mine included. All in all the jobs above shouldn't be to expensive and are quite easy to sort

You know i not sure if me heated seats are working or not the passenger one is so the wife tells me but dont think mine is oh well another job for me to sort out.

Malachi · « **Reply #21 on:** 13 December 2007, 16:43:25 »

Funnily enough even though the 98 has done an extra 100,000 miles all the electrics bar drivers heated wing mirror work, still get toasty in my heated seat! Does anyone know out of TheBoy and MarksDTM whi I'm closer to in crawley?

x25xe · « **Reply #22 on:** 13 December 2007, 16:59:45 »

The Boy is closer, based in Brackley which is not far from the M40 - Junction 9 I think.

All my '98 heated seats also work!!

Elite Pete · « **Reply #23 on:** 13 December 2007, 17:04:08 »

Cloth heated seats seem to last its the cold leather that pack up

Malachi · « **Reply #24 on:** 13 December 2007, 17:07:00 »

And that's the one's that really need them especially in winter

News:

Author Topic: So now I have two broken cars!! (Read 2274 times)

Taxi_Driver