Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cwill144 on 24 November 2019, 14:51:07
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After my 3.0L manual has been off the road for a year, i’ve Changed the engine, fitted a new clutch plate and slave cylinder. I have bleed the brakes today as I fitted new pipes. Brakes bleed fine, but can’t get clutch to bleed. I used a easy bleed kit, when I open the bleed nipple I just get air out, was going to manually pump it but pedal goes to floor (obviously as there is no fluid in system) any ideas, as the brake and clutch are the same reservoir it seams the fluid isn’t getting into the system. Any ideas?
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The clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel/clutch cover, stopping the slave from moving which prevents the bleeding action. The traditional way of freeing this off(warming the engine, then restarting it in gear with the clutch pedal pressed down) only works with cable clutches; doing it with a hydraulic clutch usually blows the seals in the slave cylinder. Failed external clutch slaves are an annoyance, concentric ones require gearbox removal.
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Use something to hold the pedal down overnight, with the reservoir cap removed may help. It has helped me bleed stubborn brakes before ?
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Enough fluid? The clutch outlet is towards the top of the reservoir... (done to prevent the car from being driven with low fluid).
Clutches on these are a bastid to bleed. Either use the Ezbleed at a slightly higher pressure or reverse bleed it using a butchered Ezybleed kit... instead of going to the reservoir cap, loose the cap end and fit that to the bleed nipple on the side of the box. :y
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what's a clutch? ??? ??? ::)
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what's a clutch? ??? ??? ::)
Foot rest for dyslexic people :P
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what's a clutch? ??? ??? ::)
Foot rest for dyslexic people :P
;) ;)
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I removed the pipe from the reservoir and no fluid is coming out even with the reservoir filled right up, might buy another reservoir and master cylinder.
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That suggests a blockage or the wrong reservoir :-\
Was the car originally an auto?
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Incidentally, they use the same reservoir. It's moulded with the spout with an extra 1/2" after the spigot that the pipe clamps to. This excess is then heat crimped to seal it.
Manual cars have this crimped end trimmed off prior to fitting... a bit like cutting the end off a superglue nozzle before you use it ;)
As long as the fluid level is above minimum, it should flow out of the clutch feed when you disconnect the clutch hose...
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Had reservoir full to top and nothing came out, even put easy bleed on and only air came out so not sure why fluid won’t come out unless something is blocked.
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Had reservoir full to top and nothing came out, even put easy bleed on and only air came out so not sure why fluid won’t come out unless something is blocked.
That makes absolutely no sense... if air comes out, so should fluid ???
Just so we are on the same page...
1. Is the car a factory manual or have you converted it whilst off the road?
2. Disconnect the clutch pipe from the reservoir. Does fluid come out?
3. If you're getting air from the bleed screw whilst the Ezybleed is connected and reservoir is full, then you need to bleed it more...
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The car is a factory manual, all the same pipe work, just new clutch plate and thrust bearing.
When you remove the pipe from the reservoir nothing comes out, i’ve Stuck a screwdriver into the reservoir outlet it is wet but no blockage, just spits with ezybleed connected. Have also tried a snap on bleeder that pulls fluid through and just air again.
I can’t see fluid in the back section of the reservoir.
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I always reverse bleed mine. I use a length of flexible plastic tube suitable bore to fit over the bleed nipple and a funnel to fit inside the other end. Then I hang the funnel high from a beam in the garage, put some brake fluid in the funnel, remove the master cylinder cap, open the bleed nipple, and top up the funnel as the fluid flows steadily down the tube. Initially bubbles will emerge in the master cylinder, then the cylinder level will rise to the top, I close the nipple, job done.
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The car is a factory manual, all the same pipe work, just new clutch plate and thrust bearing.
When you remove the pipe from the reservoir nothing comes out, i’ve Stuck a screwdriver into the reservoir outlet it is wet but no blockage, just spits with ezybleed connected. Have also tried a snap on bleeder that pulls fluid through and just air again.
I can’t see fluid in the back section of the reservoir.
Best refill the reservoir then and rebleed the brakes whilst you're at it...
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I always reverse bleed mine. I use a length of flexible plastic tube suitable bore to fit over the bleed nipple and a funnel to fit inside the other end. Then I hang the funnel high from a beam in the garage, put some brake fluid in the funnel, remove the master cylinder cap, open the bleed nipple, and top up the funnel as the fluid flows steadily down the tube. Initially bubbles will emerge in the master cylinder, then the cylinder level will rise to the top, I close the nipple, job done.
This is a good way to do it, for a one man operation. I've only had two manwels, and done cluthes in both, first time was a bastids to bleed, with two people, one continually keeping resovior topped up, we did it, 2nd time did it Terrys way took about 10 mins.