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Messages - Andy H

Pages: 1 ... 347 348 349 350 351 352 353 [354] 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 ... 370
5296
Omega General Help / Re: Temperature not working
« on: 27 August 2009, 10:58:33 »
No 1 suspect is the single wire that clips on (sideways) to the temperature sender on the coolant bridge.

5297
Omega General Help / Re: more leak problems
« on: 27 August 2009, 10:53:04 »
The pressure test will reach all parts of the system. When the flow is stopped to the heater matrix (by the HBV) or the radiator (by the thermostat) the pressure will still be applied by the return pipe.

What you won't be testing is what happens if things are hot or moving/rotating.

The heater matrix (and radiator) are made of aluminium with plastic end tanks. Plastic expands much more than aluminium when it heats up.

The HBV has already been discussed.......

The water pump is hidden away on the Omega behind the cambelt.

Maybe another pressure test is required with a warm engine?

5298
Omega General Help / Re: Grumbling??
« on: 15 August 2009, 23:20:29 »
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The traditional cause of this kind of noise is soft engine mounts and a badly fitted exhaust that makes metal to metal contact under certain conditions. The noise often sounds like some major mechanical component about to need expensive attention.

The diff is mounted in a subframe with rubber mountings. The subframe has to be lowered to change the road springs. Soggy mountings or loose bolts might allow the diff to move around & make odd noises.

Hmmm, now that's a thought...  I've noticed that if I "blip" the throttle when stationary, the car rocks from side to side - not a great deal, but much more noticable than in my last Omega.

Could this point to soft engine mounts maybe?
Sorry, I wasn't trying to suggest that your engine had soft engine mounts, I was trying to draw attention to the ways in which rubber mounted items can make alarming noises if you get metal to metal contact.

5299
Omega General Help / Re: Grumbling??
« on: 15 August 2009, 23:11:27 »
1. I allowed my local garage to replace the pinion oil seal on my carlton (Omega A)(very similar diff with crush spacer between input shaft bearings). The diff was scrap after 30 miles because they did the nut up until it felt 'tight'. The input spider is on extremely tight splines, the nut is a self locking nut. If the nut has come loose you need to look for the reason why.

2. Try moving your tail pipe around with the engine ticking over, are all the rubber mounts in position and in good condition? has the exhaust system broken in two pieces? There are so many supports that a broken exhaust won't fall off but it will make strange noises. Does the exhaust make contact with parts of the suspension or body if you bounce it up and down?

5300
Omega General Help / Re: Grumbling??
« on: 15 August 2009, 21:29:17 »
The traditional cause of this kind of noise is soft engine mounts and a badly fitted exhaust that makes metal to metal contact under certain conditions. The noise often sounds like some major mechanical component about to need expensive attention.

The diff is mounted in a subframe with rubber mountings. The subframe has to be lowered to change the road springs. Soggy mountings or loose bolts might allow the diff to move around & make odd noises.

5301
Omega General Help / Re: Caliper slider bolts
« on: 05 August 2009, 21:54:32 »
The caliper pistons come into contact with the brake fluid so the grease needs to be compatible with both brake fluid & the seals. I use red rubber grease, little sachets come with the seals if you buy a refurb kit but you can buy a tub of it quite cheaply. Alternatively just use brake fluid, if you have switched to silicone brake fluid use that.

The caliper sliders don't come into contact with brake fluid but they do get hot so copper grease is is good.

PS Copaslip (spelling?) is a trade name for copper grease.

5302
Omega General Help / Re: interior mirror
« on: 26 August 2009, 18:11:48 »
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Araldite do a 2 part superglue http://www.huntsman.com/advanced_materials/eng/Markets/Adhesives/For_Consumers/Araldite%C2%AE_Consumer_Adhesives/index.cfm?pageID=5902 would that be the one?

cheers Andy :y

tried the instant clear ... lasted for a day or so then gave up ::) ::)

I had to stick the interior mirror back on in my MK1 carlton about 20 years ago. On that occasion I used old school (12 hours to set?) Araldite & it took more than one attempt. The glass needs to be absolutely clean & absolutely dry. Don't breath on it. Ideally pick a dry sunny day  ;) (but if Flintshire is anything like Cornwall you might be better off warming the glass with a hair dryer first ::))

5304
Omega General Help / Re: blue hyothight
« on: 24 August 2009, 21:22:21 »
Ordinarily I would advocate Blue Hylomar for just about anything BUT

I used the genuine Vauxhall sealant when I changed my rocker covers and it worked perfectly. I did however dig about 1/2 pound of crud first from the crank breather (the aluminium lump hiding behind cyl no 5).

5305
Omega General Help / Re: DIS pack and leads
« on: 24 August 2009, 19:49:05 »
What condition are your spark plugs?

I once replaced my dis to try and cure a misfire. When I later changed the plugs I discovered that the electrodes had eroded and the gaps were twice as big as on the replacement plugs.

Misfire disappeared as soon as I fitted the new plugs.

5306
I think I had the opposite experience.

I fitted pattern wishbones within months of buying a high mileage Omege 7 years ago. After a couple of years they were shot so I fitted (reassuringly expensive) genuine VX wishbones.

As far as I know they were still fine when I traded the car in a couple of weeks ago.

5307
Omega General Help / Re: Little valve at back of head not working
« on: 26 August 2009, 13:31:11 »
I thought its operation was dependent on engine speed & it controlled a flap between the two halves of the plenum at around 4000 rpm :-?.

I think there is another one on the aluminium lump in the plastic air rams behind the radiator.

The other thing it could be is the carbon filter recirculation valve.

Can you post a photo of it?

5308
Omega General Help / Re: Broke down after selling
« on: 05 August 2009, 13:27:14 »
That is all that I got when my crank sensor failed. I fitted a new sensor and it started first turn of the key.

With the faulty sensor the engine management light stayed lit when I was cranking it trying to start it. With the new sensor the light went out as soon as the engine turned over.

The local independent guy with a tech 1 didn't believe me at the time but I did the paperclip test over and over before coughing up £100 for the new sensor. Maybe the newer cars have better fault logging? (mine is 1994)

It seems that faulty sensors will randomly come back to life & then fail again at the most inconvenient moment.

5309
Omega General Help / Re: Alarm problem...
« on: 25 August 2009, 14:44:13 »
What year is your car?

On my old 1994 Omega I learned to turn the ignition on, wait till most of the dash lights went out, switch off & only then disconnect the battery otherwise the alarm would sound when the battery was reconnected.

Once the alarm had started I could silence it by locking and unlocking the doors with the key fob.

I think it is different with later cars. I will be changing the battery in my 2003 Omega in the next few days so will be watching this thread for advice ::)

If your car has a 'power sounder' I think it contains its own battery so far easier to follow the 'correct' procedure rather than try and cripple it.

5310
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Thanks for the repy. Transmission doesnt have to be removed?
Not for camshafts, it would be in the way if you wanted to change the rear crankshaft seal though..............

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