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[GrahamT]

To improve access I can remove the dipstick. Also in the way is an aircon pipe; aircon has never worked and will never work again on this car, so I can get rid of that too. The studs have snapped off a little way inside the threads, making it tricky to centre punch them centrally. Is this easy work for a man who knows what he is doing?
I guess I must ask around for such a man. My son's friend Brummy the welder might know.

If the studs have sheared rather than just unscrew out with the nut they will be stuck in there pretty well.

Although I agree you can drill them out in situ the hardest part is maintaining alignment so you drill down the centre rather than off into the head.

I've made a small drill jig up that solves that problem. It also holds the drill in the correct position so centre punching the stud isn't an issue as long as you start slowly.

Good luck.

[Nick W]

Yes, alignment is the key to drilling out studs and a simple jig is a good idea. That's one of the reasons to own a welder if you're a DIY  mechanic; you can cobble together special tools in no time. A short length of tube welded to some strap that bolts to one of the other bolt holes would work well.


Left handed drillbits are well worth having this sort of job too. 4 and 6mm ones would be enough for this work.

[terry paget]

To improve access I can remove the dipstick. Also in the way is an aircon pipe; aircon has never worked and will never work again on this car, so I can get rid of that too. The studs have snapped off a little way inside the threads, making it tricky to centre punch them centrally. Is this easy work for a man who knows what he is doing?
I guess I must ask around for such a man. My son's friend Brummy the welder might know.

If the studs have sheared rather than just unscrew out with the nut they will be stuck in there pretty well.

Although I agree you can drill them out in situ the hardest part is maintaining alignment so you drill down the centre rather than off into the head.

I've made a small drill jig up that solves that problem. It also holds the drill in the correct position so centre punching the stud isn't an issue as long as you start slowly.

Good luck.

Congratulations. Could you post a pic, or describe it?

I did wonder how even an expert would do it. I have watched a few u-tube guys doing it, but the situation under the bonnet of an Omega is inconvenient.
One u-tube guy MIG welded a nut to a recalcitrant stud. That seemed ingenious in that the welding current could heat and free the bond.

I bear in mind that this car has failed MOT on emissions (lambda). We think this is due to the cracked manifold. This is why I was inclined to fit the manifold on the 7 remaining studs, hoping it sealed satisfactorily, and resubmit for MOT. It might not last as long, might crack, or might fail MOT again. The manifold seems fairly stiff, and was attached before by only 8 studs.

Like Nick W, I have removed  manifolds before without trouble. This one has obviously been off before.

[GrahamT]

It's just a drill jig that bolts to the inlet.

Can't decide if your being funny or sarcastic with your congratulations comment.

[terry paget]

It's just a drill jig that bolts to the inlet.

Can't decide if your being funny or sarcastic with your congratulations comment.

I beg your pardon. I see my comment was ambiguous. It was sincere admiration.
I have never managed to successfully extract broken off studs or screws, and not for lack of trying.
In Midsomer Norton there is a local engineering shop that does such things. Some years ago I took in a Vauxhall 2.0 exhaust manifold for welding and to have some broken off screws removed. I have used him since, he is very good, but I always have to take in the item concerned; hence my second option. However, removing the head is quite a job, and involves more expense in gaskets, etc. I did not imagine it could be done in situ; I still have my doubts. It looks particularly challengine in that the studs have broken off some way into the threads. The u-tube demonstrations all begin with grinding the end of the stud flat and centre punching it - not possible on my car.

[Nick W]

Terry, something like this is what I had in mind:





That shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to cobble together.


And there's loads of room to do the job in place on a four cylinder Omega.

[GrahamT]

Terry, something like this is what I had in mind:





That shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to cobble together.


And there's loads of room to do the job in place on a four cylinder Omega.

That's almost what I made except the hole is elongated so you can position it exactly where you need it to be.

[Andy A]

Terry, can you post some pics of the side of the manifold that goes against the engine please.

Thanks

[terry paget]

[terry paget]

Woops! Will try again with reduced pics

[Andy A]

Thanks Terry for the pics. So the new one is an exact match to the original one. 

[terry paget]

Thanks Terry for the pics. So the new one is an exact match to the original one. 

Indeed. That's the good news. I was half expecting something different,
Only difference I can see is 2075 and 14 12-06 00 cast in relief on the old one but absent on the new.

[terry paget]

Thanks again Nick W. I would need some steel strip about 5mm thick, and some steel tube 6.5mm internal diameter, and would have a better chance with some new 4mm and 6mm left hand drills Obviously you have done this job a few times before, and got the tools for the job. I still do not understand how you keep the smaller drill central to the stud. Perhaps you have a stock of jigs different internal bores.

Like welding, I am eager to learn, but lack confidence to tackle a major job like this. Some while ago I purchased a 90 degree turn drill adapter, that might come in handy on this job.

I reckon my best plan is to seek a man with kit and experience.

On another matter, an Omega 2.6 manual estate on e-bay has just been withdrawn on the grounds that 'item is either lost or broken'.
Not heard that one before.

[terry paget]

Curiouser and curiouser. Now I have 8 studs useable. I am missing top no. 1 and bottom no. 2.Here are pics.


Don't understand that. I suppose earlier mechanic failed to insert stud in lower 3.
Now right hand end is complete, I just lack upper 1 and lower 2.
I have not yet found a man to drill out and retap, still seeking him.

[dave the builder]

The stud could have just fell out over time ,
Clear to see that port 1 has been blowing ,which is the port with snapped studs