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[raywilb]

i think it is about 3yrs since i replaced the rear pads so probably require new. regards the handbrake shoes ( which were adjusted last May for the m.o.t ) , they have not been replaced for a few years. i did get lots of receipts of jobs done on the car that go back 11yrs mainly servicing, none for rear brake shoes. contemplating doing them may order a cable too.

[Doctor Gollum]

No reason for the rear shoes or handbrake cable if the handbrake is correctly adjusted and working correctly 

[Nick W]

As the handbrake shoes aren't applied to a moving disc, you're unlikely to ever wear them out. I only replaced mine because the linings came unglued when I replaced the disc. This was at about 160k miles, and they were original with very little wear.


Rear pads last a long time as they don't work very hard - about 25% of the effort.


Hand brake cables can stretch if frequently adjusted(which is such a faff and unnecesary it won't have happened), the retaining plugs can rust which is what happened to mine, and the rubber boots wear and let water and dirt into the cable which was also true of mine. None of which was bad for a 16 year old part.


Although these are cheap parts, there's no point in replacing them unnecessarily

[Keith ABS]

 As above. Only reason I have known handbrake shoes to be replaced is because of becoming unglued

[terry paget]

Only reason to strip the handbrake is when the scissors 4:1 leverage assembly seizes up, making the brake markedly less effective. This usually happens after many years, more than the car was expected to last. It's a tricky job, but most rewarding.

[Kevin Wood]

.. or the brake siezes in the "on" position whereby they wear out quite rapidly.

Worth taking it all apart and giving it a clean while the disk is off.

[johnnydog]

As above. Only reason I have known handbrake shoes to be replaced is because of becoming unglued

One of the causes for this happening is sudden hard applications of the handbrake whilst the rear wheels are revolving such as on the brake tester during an MOT. Ideally, the handbrake should be applied very gently / slowly, and once the inboard handbrake shoes have contacted the inside of the drum, the handbrake can then be applied as firmly as required. I have previously asked testers that haven't done my Omega before to be gentle with the handbrake until the shoes have contacted the drum for this very reason.
I would only replace the inboard shoes when absolutely necessary. Because they aren't used like normal brake pads, and therefore don't bed in as well, the handbrake can be sh*te for a while with new shoes, even with gentle applications travelling at slow speeds in an attempt to bed them in.
I am always envious of the performance of brakes on a brand new car. I appreciate everything is new, but even with cars with delivery mileage of only 5 miles, the brakes seem fully bedded in - something which is difficult to replicate with an older vehicle that has had all new discs / pads all round.

[dave the builder]

I always remove the discs pre MOT, de-lip the drum ,rough the surface, rough up the shoe material, clean with brake cleaner and lube linkages, then adjust to re-fit ,then adjust cable back to 3 to 4 clicks
IIRC TIS says 7 clicks  it's a handbrake ,not a flag pole 

[johnnydog]

I always remove the discs pre MOT, de-lip the drum ,rough the surface, rough up the shoe material, clean with brake cleaner and lube linkages, then adjust to re-fit ,then adjust cable back to 3 to 4 clicks
IIRC TIS says 7 clicks  it's a handbrake ,not a flag pole 

I remember reading somewhere that the reason for this is so that with the movement of the suspension, and the slight movement of the handbrake cable, if the cable is too keenly adjusted, the shoes may momentarily contact the drum which could ultimately cause the linings to part company with the shoe. A bit extreme possibly, but I can understand the logic behind it depending on the type of suspension and handbrake set up.
I do personally like a tighter handbrake, so I agree, a happy medium probably is around 4 clicks....

[raywilb]

i think it is about 3yrs since i replaced the rear pads so probably require new. regards the handbrake shoes ( which were adjusted last May for the m.o.t ) , they have not been replaced for a few years. i did get lots of receipts of jobs done on the car that go back 11yrs mainly servicing, none for rear brake shoes. contemplating doing them may order a cable too.

   thanks for all the input . i have the use of a mates lockup next tuesday so will check them out. just an add on regards brakes. the 2.5 td i had always went through the m.o.t when due no bother. however on it 5th test i presumed the brake pads must need doing, so without an inspection i bought a set. when i took the front wheels off the pads were ok. an 8yr old car with its original pads that had almost no wear at all on them.

[TheBoy]

Rear pads last a long time as they don't work very hard - about 25% of the effort.

TC hammers them hard.

Or exercises them, as I prefer to call it,

[Nick W]

Rear pads last a long time as they don't work very hard - about 25% of the effort.

TC hammers them hard.

Or exercises them, as I prefer to call it,

or you could exercise some progressive throttle control with your foot.....

[TheBoy]

Rear pads last a long time as they don't work very hard - about 25% of the effort.

TC hammers them hard.

Or exercises them, as I prefer to call it,

or you could exercise some progressive throttle control with your foot.....

Nah, let it sort itself out

Actually, to keep the TC working just on the brakes for a decent period, and not reducing power, does take a bit of foot control.