106
General Discussion Area / Essex Big Al
« on: 25 February 2016, 19:07:58 »
Inbox is full .. unable to answer you !!
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107
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted - Self-levelling Suspension sensor - FL
« on: 20 February 2016, 15:27:55 »
As above .. complete self levelling suspension sensor for a FL please
TIA
TIA
108
General Discussion Area / Apple iPhones
« on: 17 February 2016, 20:46:14 »
For those who have an iPhone and are tempted to play ...
http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/35595474/dont-set-your-iphone-to-1-january-1970-or-youll-break-it
http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/35595474/dont-set-your-iphone-to-1-january-1970-or-youll-break-it
109
General Discussion Area / XV 179
« on: 30 January 2016, 21:11:18 »
11 years ago today some very good friends of mine were lost, but will never be forgotton
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YVdeAsU_W8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SK3YV5E1ZQ
http://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=20050130-0
A glass will be raised in a dusty room tonight. RIP guys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YVdeAsU_W8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SK3YV5E1ZQ
http://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=20050130-0
A glass will be raised in a dusty room tonight. RIP guys
111
General Car Chat / Sat on a bus
« on: 05 January 2016, 12:06:25 »
The old girl has failed her MOT big time. Both cills need welding. .. The rot can be seen even though the covers are still on. So, covers to be taken off and a phone call later to tell me the financial damage. 
112
Omega General Help / Boogar :(
« on: 28 December 2015, 17:29:53 »
Boogar ... car has not been moved for over a week .. start it up and missfiring .. code reader out .. Cylinder 6 although at idle it feels like more than one ... to dark to do anything now ... so early morning out with the spanners as she's due to tow the tin tent at lunch time as we go away for New Year ......
What are we betting .... wet due to scuttle leakage ?? Although it's never happened before but it has rained a lot ..... cam covers ?? although no sign of oil on the bolts.
Coil packs are only 20,000 / 2 years old and were both genuine dealer items....
car has not been moved for over a week .. start it up and missfiring .. code reader out .. Cylinder 6 although at idle it feels like more than one ... to dark to do anything now ... so early morning out with the spanners as she's due to tow the tin tent at lunch time as we go away for New Year ......What are we betting .... wet due to scuttle leakage ?? Although it's never happened before but it has rained a lot ..... cam covers ?? although no sign of oil on the bolts.
Coil packs are only 20,000 / 2 years old and were both genuine dealer items....
115
General Discussion Area / Computer advice please :)
« on: 19 October 2015, 20:30:58 »
As its many years since I last built a system (this one is over 10 years old now but runs win 10 - just !!), and things/reputations/reliability changes like the wind, any views on the following components for an upgrade ..
Processor : 6th gen i5 6500 3.2 Ghz skt 1151 skylake
Cooler : Arctic UCACO-FI30001-GB I30 with 120mm Fan
Motherboard : Gigabyte GA-Z170-HDP3
Memory : 8 Mb Kingston HyperX-Fury DDR4 21300 2666Mhz Dual channel
I'll also be upgrading the hard drive to SSD
Kingston V300 Series 2.5" 240GB SATA 6Gb/s
Any opinions/observations gratefully accepted... I used to be able to component match almost in my sleep .. but those days are long gone now !!
Processor : 6th gen i5 6500 3.2 Ghz skt 1151 skylake
Cooler : Arctic UCACO-FI30001-GB I30 with 120mm Fan
Motherboard : Gigabyte GA-Z170-HDP3
Memory : 8 Mb Kingston HyperX-Fury DDR4 21300 2666Mhz Dual channel
I'll also be upgrading the hard drive to SSD
Kingston V300 Series 2.5" 240GB SATA 6Gb/s
Any opinions/observations gratefully accepted... I used to be able to component match almost in my sleep .. but those days are long gone now !!
117
Maintenance Guides / Changing a Front ABS Sensor
« on: 07 October 2015, 14:28:57 »
Changing the front ABS sensor is covered in Haynes manual on page 9.18 para 46 with a glib one liner ...
Unscrew the mounting bolt using a Torx key and withdraw the sensor from the mounting bracket
I wish it was that simple .... this is what I had to do..
With the car suitably supported on stands, remove the road wheel
On the rear of the wheel can be found the sensor and its securing bolt. This one has been liberally dosed in plusgas for a few days ... probably needn't have bothered
There was no way it was going to move, even with a thin bladed screwdriver in the "slot" on the back .. and no access to anything at the front.
So, Brake Caliper off and tied up out of the way, then Caliper Retaining bracket off
Remove the Disc retaining screw
then remove the disc itself ... might take a bit of beating with a rubber mallet
Once the disc is off the reluctor (toothed wheel) and a small portion of the ABS sensor can be seen
At this point I tried a large flat bladed screwdriver levering on the front of the ABS sensor, whilst at the same time using a small bladed one in the slot at the rear ... all that happened was the casing broke and the innards came out leaving the casing in the hole
So, centre cap off to reveal the hub nut
Then undo the hub nut with a long breaker bar and a 32mm socket . It is done up to 320Nm so takes a bit of leverage to move. Once off the whole hub and bearing assembly slides off very easily. The ABS sensor area is then fully accessible
Comparing the new sensor to some sockets and an 11mm socket seemed to suit
This was then used to knockout as much of the broken casing as possible.
Some bits had to be pried out with a screwdriver, the hole was then cleaned up with a wire brush
The new sensor was then inserted... its a VERY tight fit and even with a little copperslip applied took some gentle taps with a rubber mallet to fit... I took a LOT of care to ensure the mounting hole was aligned as once in I doubt I could have turned the sensor
Then to reassemble... hub back on but leave the centre cap off, bit of copperslip ready for the disc. My torque gauge only goes to 210 Nm .. so that's what I used .....there is a reason for leaving the cap off ....
Disc and caliper mounting bracket and back on
Then the caliper and pads, taking care not to break the pad wear sensor - note to self ...new discs and pads needed before the MOT in January !!
Because I'd been handling the disc so putting greasy marks all over it, both inner and outer surfaces cleaned up with brake cleaner. Touch of copperslip ready for the wheel itself
Remove the centre boss from the road wheel and refit
Let down from stands and jack, torque up the wheel bolts. On startup the warning lights for ABS/TC went out immediately, a couple of brake presses to set the pads properly and a quick road test showed the ABS and TC was working properly.
So, drive to local garage where, for £2 in the "Help the Heroes" box they torqued up the hub bolt to 320 Nm without having to do anything else for access. I drove home, removed the wheel, fitted the centre cap to the hub nut, fitted the centre boss to the wheel and refitted the wheel.
Probably not the easiest way, but it worked. Torque wrench took a lot of use as there are a few torque sensitive bolts to do up, but the only "special" tool needed was the high range torque wrench .. all the other spanners and sockets were in the Halfords set
Hope this helps someone in the future !
Unscrew the mounting bolt using a Torx key and withdraw the sensor from the mounting bracket
I wish it was that simple .... this is what I had to do..
With the car suitably supported on stands, remove the road wheel
On the rear of the wheel can be found the sensor and its securing bolt. This one has been liberally dosed in plusgas for a few days ... probably needn't have bothered
There was no way it was going to move, even with a thin bladed screwdriver in the "slot" on the back .. and no access to anything at the front.
So, Brake Caliper off and tied up out of the way, then Caliper Retaining bracket off
Remove the Disc retaining screw
then remove the disc itself ... might take a bit of beating with a rubber mallet
Once the disc is off the reluctor (toothed wheel) and a small portion of the ABS sensor can be seen
At this point I tried a large flat bladed screwdriver levering on the front of the ABS sensor, whilst at the same time using a small bladed one in the slot at the rear ... all that happened was the casing broke and the innards came out leaving the casing in the hole
So, centre cap off to reveal the hub nut
Then undo the hub nut with a long breaker bar and a 32mm socket . It is done up to 320Nm so takes a bit of leverage to move. Once off the whole hub and bearing assembly slides off very easily. The ABS sensor area is then fully accessible
Comparing the new sensor to some sockets and an 11mm socket seemed to suit
This was then used to knockout as much of the broken casing as possible.
Some bits had to be pried out with a screwdriver, the hole was then cleaned up with a wire brush
The new sensor was then inserted... its a VERY tight fit and even with a little copperslip applied took some gentle taps with a rubber mallet to fit... I took a LOT of care to ensure the mounting hole was aligned as once in I doubt I could have turned the sensor
Then to reassemble... hub back on but leave the centre cap off, bit of copperslip ready for the disc. My torque gauge only goes to 210 Nm .. so that's what I used .....there is a reason for leaving the cap off ....
Disc and caliper mounting bracket and back on
Then the caliper and pads, taking care not to break the pad wear sensor - note to self ...new discs and pads needed before the MOT in January !!
Because I'd been handling the disc so putting greasy marks all over it, both inner and outer surfaces cleaned up with brake cleaner. Touch of copperslip ready for the wheel itself
Remove the centre boss from the road wheel and refit
Let down from stands and jack, torque up the wheel bolts. On startup the warning lights for ABS/TC went out immediately, a couple of brake presses to set the pads properly and a quick road test showed the ABS and TC was working properly.
So, drive to local garage where, for £2 in the "Help the Heroes" box they torqued up the hub bolt to 320 Nm without having to do anything else for access. I drove home, removed the wheel, fitted the centre cap to the hub nut, fitted the centre boss to the wheel and refitted the wheel.
Probably not the easiest way, but it worked. Torque wrench took a lot of use as there are a few torque sensitive bolts to do up, but the only "special" tool needed was the high range torque wrench .. all the other spanners and sockets were in the Halfords set
Hope this helps someone in the future !
118
Maintenance Guides / Changing the ABS ECU - A different way
« on: 05 October 2015, 21:06:47 »
Here is the sequence Terry Paget recommended :
Here is my procedure to change the ABS ECU.
1. Unclip fuseholders above battery; remove battery.
2. Drain power steering fluid reservoir, remove reservoir. Try not to spill fluid on ABS ECU.
3. Release ABS metal hoses from clips on bulkhead behind ABS unit.
4. Unplug ABS ECU multiplug by pulling purple locking clip towards wing while wiggling connector.
5. Loosen 13mm ABS outside locating nut; remove 13mm inside locating nut and bend back heat shield to release ABS locating bolt.
6. Grasp ECU assembly firmly, raise it a bit to release it, then tilt front upwards to give access to ECU retaining screws. Support raised end.
7. Remove 6 torx screws holding ECU to ABS unit.. Remove ECU. As you remove it, unplug cable beneath ECU to motor.
This is what I actually did/had to do ..
1. Just before starting work .. .
2. So, battery out ..
3. It was obvious more room would be needed as I could not access the Power steering reservoir jubilee clips, so LPG supply pipe to passenger bank removed, three large electrical plugs removed, small wires to both battery lugs removed, the earth cable to beside the funny plug in the triangular box, and the connector with a single black wire in the triangular box removed. One wire had to be removed from the auxiliary fuse box, this was the end one with the purple fuse, simply remove the fuse then pull the green socket forward, it slides out of the lugs and is then loose. This allowed all the ancillary electrics to be folded back across the engine giving a clearer view. All the cables from the triangular box go back with the big rubber grommet, leaving a nice clear space
4. I was then able to remove the power steering reservoir. It was obvious to me that I could not even see the lower bolts on the ABS ECU, let alone gain access to the end of the ABS electrical connector, so I removed the single bolt that holds those three large coloured sockets in place and folded them back under the battery tray. I then drained the radiator and removed the large pipe from the engine to the top of the radiator. I was then able to get a screwdriver onto the end of the purple connector and remove the electrical plug to the ABS ECU. That plug became the bane of my life .. it is not long enough to move out of the way and just kept running interference on the job !!
5. Loosening the outer bolt and undoing the inner bolt that holds the ABS assembly in place sounds easy .. neither "bolt" is captive and as soon as I moved the assembly both fell out and took a long time "fishing" with a magnet-on-a-stick to recover .. I would suggest removing them as you undo them. The inner heat shield is fairly robust and took some pushing before it moved enough to move the ABS assembly
6. I was very surprised, and quite worried, about how high the front of the ABS assembly had to be lifted to gain access to the lower two bolts. The pesky plug kept getting in the way and eventually I just thought "sod it" and went for it .. long steady pull and pray the brake pipes remain intact .... eventually I got it high enough, I then slid a long tyre lever in under it to hold it steady, both to keep the plug out of the way and to try and stop any movement that would be more stress on the pipes
7. With all six bolts out, and the lower plug disconnected, the ECU came off quite easily.
8. Reassembly really was the reverse of removal, just don't make my mistake of doing all the electrics before the power steering reservoir !! Do the ECU to ABS unit, then refit the whole ABS assembly, again a long steady movement of the unit puts less stress on the pipes. Then refit the Power Steering Reservoir, then the big plug assembly back to the battery box, then the coolant pipe, then ALL the electrics, to the triangular box, the auxiliary fuse box and the three big plugs, then the battery and all the small connections to the lugs. Refill the power steering reservoir (Dex II). Refill the radiator (50/50 antifreeze mix)
Not the most technically demanding job in the world, and very few tools needed, but a complete pain in the a*** to do as very little space and if you drop anything it takes an age, and a lot of swearing, to recover it.
Many thanks to Terry for the outline of the job .. perhaps I didn't do everything the easiest way, but I did what I did and it got the job jobbed ... eventually.
If you have to do this .. it needs patience and time, otherwise it is not too difficult.
Hope this helps E
Here is my procedure to change the ABS ECU.
1. Unclip fuseholders above battery; remove battery.
2. Drain power steering fluid reservoir, remove reservoir. Try not to spill fluid on ABS ECU.
3. Release ABS metal hoses from clips on bulkhead behind ABS unit.
4. Unplug ABS ECU multiplug by pulling purple locking clip towards wing while wiggling connector.
5. Loosen 13mm ABS outside locating nut; remove 13mm inside locating nut and bend back heat shield to release ABS locating bolt.
6. Grasp ECU assembly firmly, raise it a bit to release it, then tilt front upwards to give access to ECU retaining screws. Support raised end.
7. Remove 6 torx screws holding ECU to ABS unit.. Remove ECU. As you remove it, unplug cable beneath ECU to motor.
This is what I actually did/had to do ..
1. Just before starting work .. .
2. So, battery out ..
3. It was obvious more room would be needed as I could not access the Power steering reservoir jubilee clips, so LPG supply pipe to passenger bank removed, three large electrical plugs removed, small wires to both battery lugs removed, the earth cable to beside the funny plug in the triangular box, and the connector with a single black wire in the triangular box removed. One wire had to be removed from the auxiliary fuse box, this was the end one with the purple fuse, simply remove the fuse then pull the green socket forward, it slides out of the lugs and is then loose. This allowed all the ancillary electrics to be folded back across the engine giving a clearer view. All the cables from the triangular box go back with the big rubber grommet, leaving a nice clear space
4. I was then able to remove the power steering reservoir. It was obvious to me that I could not even see the lower bolts on the ABS ECU, let alone gain access to the end of the ABS electrical connector, so I removed the single bolt that holds those three large coloured sockets in place and folded them back under the battery tray. I then drained the radiator and removed the large pipe from the engine to the top of the radiator. I was then able to get a screwdriver onto the end of the purple connector and remove the electrical plug to the ABS ECU. That plug became the bane of my life .. it is not long enough to move out of the way and just kept running interference on the job !!
5. Loosening the outer bolt and undoing the inner bolt that holds the ABS assembly in place sounds easy .. neither "bolt" is captive and as soon as I moved the assembly both fell out and took a long time "fishing" with a magnet-on-a-stick to recover ..
I would suggest removing them as you undo them. The inner heat shield is fairly robust and took some pushing before it moved enough to move the ABS assembly6. I was very surprised, and quite worried, about how high the front of the ABS assembly had to be lifted to gain access to the lower two bolts. The pesky plug kept getting in the way and eventually I just thought "sod it" and went for it .. long steady pull and pray the brake pipes remain intact .... eventually I got it high enough, I then slid a long tyre lever in under it to hold it steady, both to keep the plug out of the way and to try and stop any movement that would be more stress on the pipes
7. With all six bolts out, and the lower plug disconnected, the ECU came off quite easily.
8. Reassembly really was the reverse of removal, just don't make my mistake of doing all the electrics before the power steering reservoir !! Do the ECU to ABS unit, then refit the whole ABS assembly, again a long steady movement of the unit puts less stress on the pipes. Then refit the Power Steering Reservoir, then the big plug assembly back to the battery box, then the coolant pipe, then ALL the electrics, to the triangular box, the auxiliary fuse box and the three big plugs, then the battery and all the small connections to the lugs. Refill the power steering reservoir (Dex II). Refill the radiator (50/50 antifreeze mix)
Not the most technically demanding job in the world, and very few tools needed, but a complete pain in the a*** to do as very little space and if you drop anything it takes an age, and a lot of swearing, to recover it.
Many thanks to Terry for the outline of the job .. perhaps I didn't do everything the easiest way, but I did what I did and it got the job jobbed ... eventually.
If you have to do this .. it needs patience and time, otherwise it is not too difficult.
Hope this helps
E119
General Car Chat / At least there are no emissions issues ..
« on: 30 September 2015, 09:34:07 »120
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted - Front ABS Sensor
« on: 29 September 2015, 15:42:32 »
Wanted for a 2001 FL 3.2 Saloon, a front ABS sensor in known working condition. I "think" they are the same both sides, but are different to the rears .. least that's how I read EPC. If they are different I need the front left (nearside). Reading through the forum it appears they are "awkward" to get out intact ...
Any help gratefully accepted
E
Any help gratefully accepted
E