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106

Omega General Help / Re: auto gearbox removal

« on: 24 August 2011, 13:09:26 »

If it is in Park, you cant rotate the propshaft to get to the 'other' bolt, otherwise it doesnt really matter which gear is selected.
Torque convertor will rotate regardless of selected gear; just undo each bolt and turn the engine slightly to get to the next bolt then, once they are all undone, lever the torque convertor towards the 'box slightly.
When you undo the gearbox cooler hose you will be able to bend the rubber bit back to connect to the other pipe so reducing drips.

Take care...they are heavy, very heavy and very wobbly when on a trolley jack.

107

Omega General Help / Re: How Many Hours to do a Auto to Manual Conversion??

« on: 25 July 2011, 13:09:16 »

Jim, your 3.2 is fly-by-wire so the bits in the guide covering cruise wiring, clutch pedal switch and possibly the brake pedal switch will not apply.
If you post-up the differences for the dbw cars I will amend the guide.

108

Omega General Help / Re: Diffs...

« on: 23 July 2011, 22:28:02 »

3.0 diff is likely to be a 3.7:1, 2.5 manuals generally have 3.9:1.

If you want something shorter you could go for one from a 2.5 auto, 4.2:1, I think this was also used by the 4 pots.

I cant see why the 4 pots would have have a different drive flange, I thought all versions used the same rear half prop shaft, only the front bit changing between auto / manual

109

Omega General Help / Re: running/starting problems since rebuild

« on: 14 July 2011, 18:37:36 »

Check the plennum O rings are still in place.
HT leads connected correctly?....the usual mistake is at the coil pack.
If you have a multimeter, check the HT lead resistance, should be 3000 to 10000 ohms, depending on length. Quite common to have one break when disturbing them.

110

Omega General Help / Re: manual conversion..

« on: 14 July 2011, 18:31:08 »

I wouldnt worry about the top speed...its still fast enough to run out of talent very quickly.

The 3.9 is fine for a 2.5 manual, and was used on later 2.5s. When I first wrote the auto - manual guide I kept the 4.22 diff from the auto, acceleration was very good but I made too much use of the performance and paid the price at the fuel pumps.
If you use a 3.7 you will find it a little bit high geared in 4th and 5th.
Remember that the speedo is driven from the wheel sensors so you dont have to worry about that reading incorrectly.

Have you broken another auto box?

111

Omega General Help / Re: Aux water Pump

« on: 12 July 2011, 22:35:52 »

It does help the cabin to warm up faster in winter.
If you remove the pump (pull out of rubber or unbolt bracket) then undo the 4 screws fastening the pump cover and the remove the impeller you will find a rotating magnet.
Clean out any rust deposits completely as this causes the impeller to stick to the outer sleeve.

112

Omega General Help / Re: Loss of power and no compression :(

« on: 12 July 2011, 22:29:20 »

You have to turn the crank to TDC before you can see if the cam timing is out, the marks on the belt only line up once in a blue moon.
There is a notch on the crank sprocket which should point downwards and line up with a mark on the alloy. #1 mark on the left hand cam wheel should now line up with the backplate notch, #2 mark on the 2nd from left camwheel etc etc.
If #1 is miles out, turn the crank through one complete rev and try again.

113

Omega General Help / Re: Loss of power and no compression :(

« on: 10 July 2011, 21:09:20 »

Undo the top cambelt cover screws and prise the cover open slightly, then get someone to turn the key to see if the belt is moving.
If no...there is your problem..stripped teeth on the belt.
If yes then check the timing marks all line up, but you need to remove the cambelt cover to do this properly.

114

Omega General Help / Re: ac compressor replacement

« on: 07 July 2011, 23:22:33 »

As above.....long extension from above to remove the one bolt holding the pipes to the compressor.
Undo mounting bolts and bolt fixing pipe clip near front of compressor.
Ease the compressor forward and rotate one way, and then the other to clear the filler plug and connector from obstructions.

When refitting, the pipes must be in position before sliding the compressor in. Get the compressor home and fit the pipes and bolt before fitting the compressor fixing bolts.
You can just get a hand to the pipe fixing plate from underneath, reaching over the engine mount.

115

Omega General Help / Re: i require more advice from the master - cyl head

« on: 08 July 2011, 20:28:52 »

My local Halfords stock JB Weld, seem to remember it wasnt in an obvious place though.
You must clean out the rust to clean alloy before filling....a Dremmel would be ideal.

116

Omega General Help / Re: Secondary Air Injection pump - needed ????

« on: 08 July 2011, 20:34:32 »

Usually bearing failure on Omegas. I have tried prising them apart without success, The impellers are press fitted onto the shaft and are too fragile to lever off.
I ran without one for a while, seemed to lose a bit of mpg so refitted and saw a definite improvement but this is for short distance commute of 6 miles in winter so I think it is due to going closed loop slightly quicker as a result of cats warming up quicker.

117

Omega General Help / Re: v6 lifters all the same?

« on: 19 June 2011, 22:21:53 »

Two different types exist, they were changed when the high capacity oil pump and modified flow restrictors (T vents) were introduced.
If they look the same inside then you should be ok, if different then dont use.

118

Omega General Help / Re: Valve spring compressor

« on: 17 June 2011, 13:46:53 »

Just to back-up martins comments:
The valve stem seals on e-bay used to be recommended by mark & myself but after 3 yrs / 28k I am seeing smoke on start-up and HC is rising at MoT so go for genuine stem seals.

Camshaft seals re-use or genuine...do not use pattern.
Camcover seals genuine only.

Green sealant under front cambearing caps.
Black sealant for camcover corners and D's.

I made an adaptor for my valve spring compressor out of 28mm (22mm?) copper pipe so I didnt have to buy a new long-reach one.

119

Omega General Help / Re: oil filer on v6 2.6

« on: 17 June 2011, 13:35:25 »

The sticky-out fingers lock into the filter cap

120

Omega General Help / Re: Hot air blowing on the back of the engine.

« on: 23 April 2011, 18:49:28 »

I recall there being a casting attached to the end of the head which is the duct for the exhaust feed to the EGR valve. This has a gasket between it and the head so could be leaking hot exhaust gasses. I would expect it to be noisy if it was though.