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[Essex_Andy]

The guy I bought the springs from said a 20mm drop...looks a lot lower than 20mm!!!

Tried removing the rear springs the 'proper' way but still not enough room to get 'em out or to use spring compressors so trusty angle grinder came out to play....rear springs and shocks changed in minutes.


Front end took a bit longer but all done...oh and if anyone wants to replace their front springs then you need a 24mm ring spanner.

And talking of nuts and bolts, I thought Suzuki used uncommon sizes, lots of 12mm and 14mm
Vauxhall are just as bad...lots of 18mm and 16mm

What happen to using common 17's 19's and 13's

Phil, I did think of Elite but not too sure of them re camber...for the same money I dont mind a longer drive to someone tried and tested and who provised a free check and fine tune after 2000 miles.

Some pics:-

Before the spanners came out

Stock rear end

New shocks and irmscher springs

This is how to take care of stock rear springs

Standard front

Whats going in

Probably original 1998 wishbones

New strut in situ

Job all done

[Essex_Andy]

daft question but do all v6 saloons have same shocks? (excluding self levelling)

[Timbuk]

daft question but do all v6 saloons have same shocks? (excluding self levelling)

I'ts only a daft question if you know the answer and i don't, so i think that makes me... er... daft :-/

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, there are sports and facelift versons to.

[Essex_Andy]

Well it'll be interesting as I opted for 3.0 shockers cause of uprated irmscher springs.

Time will tell I suppose

[theolodian]

Keep us posted on how you like them.  I would like to do the struts and maybe tear out the self-levellers next year when I finally get around to doing the wishbones.

[Markie]

like this thread , some commentry around the pics and essex_andy youve just written your first "how to"  

[Bo Bo]

Keep us posted on how you like them.  I would like to do the struts and maybe tear out the self-levellers next year when I finally get around to doing the wishbones.

You might have changed your oil by then  

[Timbuk]

Keep us posted on how you like them.  I would like to do the struts and maybe tear out the self-levellers next year when I finally get around to doing the wishbones.

You might have changed your oil by then  

 

[theolodian]

Keep us posted on how you like them.  I would like to do the struts and maybe tear out the self-levellers next year when I finally get around to doing the wishbones.

You might have changed your oil by then  

 

[smiley=engel017.gif]

 

[Essex_Andy]

like this thread , some commentry around the pics and essex_andy youve just written your first "how to"  

its just a fidly job not difficult really

All I would suggest over the worksop manual is on the front drop links, remove them from the anti roll bar instead. Much easier than the suggested method of remove from strut. You can then remove the drop link from the strut easier with the strut secured on a bench/vice if need be.
(you'll need 18mm openended spanner and 18mm socket for drop links, 11mm socket for top of strut rod and 24mm ring spanner for strut top locking nuts)

If you are replacing the stock rear springs and not going to keep them then cut them with a grinder. Undo the drop link to let the trailing arm drop down enough and all done. (13mm nut and bolts)
18mm bolts on shock to trailing arms

Oh yeah...virtually undo the rear shock top mounts BEFORE you jack the car up and likewise for the struts. you'll need a small adjustable spanner to hold the shock piston rod while you undo the top mount.

Changing the wishbones...you will swear and make up swear words!!!
The longer bolt on the wishbones is for the horizontal mount should you mix them up.
I found a 3/8  drive bar and 21mm was just the right size for the limited access for the bolt heads on the vertical bolt head and 1/2 drive with 21mm socket for the nuts.

If removing the front strut from the kingpin assembly then you will probably need to remove the upper caliper mount/frame bolt. This is so you can remove the bottom pinch bolt on the strut (18mm nuts and bolts)

And the gentle use of a small cold chiesel and soft mallett will help pursuade the old balljoint out and help the kingpin assembly ease down onto the new one

hth

[bob.dent]

Nice one Andy - job well done

[theolodian]

No, there are sports and facelift versons to.

Should I consider the factory sports bits when it comes time to do the suspension?  I hear you have been know to thrash an Omega once in a while.  Is there a suspension that you prefer?

[Marks DTM Calib]

MV6 is a good setup, its not overly hard yet the 30mm lowering it gives over standard helps the handling no end. The standard setup will out corner most front wheel drive cars if you drive it right, the springs are a multirate setup (if you look at them the thickness of the metal varies) so if you turn slightly early into a corner you can lean it onto the harder bit and around you go.....there is actualy a lot less body roll than it feels.

Of course, thats all assuming your shocks havnt got 100K miles plus on them and a dead spot in the middle of the travel.

[Martin_1962]

I have never seen a Japanese 13mm headed bolt, I have even seen Japanese socket sets with no 13mm socket in them