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[Boatboy]

Hi,

I recently set about trying to trace a coolant leak and as there was a damp patch on the forward sump lip I suspected it was the water pump I replaced late 2015. On closer inspection (ramps, torch, undertray off and plenty of cleaning rags) it turns out to be oil. There's a fair bit of it all around the sump. 

After a clean up and watching while the engine runs I can see clean oil slowly dribbling down from behind the crank pulley and there is a light smattering of oil on the outer timing cover.
Whilst this seems pretty conclusive to me, what if anything can I do to confirm that its not coming from further up?

For the record, cam cover gaskets were replaced in September (genuine - ouch) and breathers cleaned at that time. There is no obvious oil further up.

I pulled the water pump pulley and the pump and surroundings are dry. Can't remember if the one I fitted (FAI from local factors) had a weep hole or not, but my suspicions/hope for the coolant leak now fall on the HBV (original afaik) or adjacent plumbing.

Grateful (i think) for any sugestions..

Steve

[Nick W]

It's almost certainly the crank seal.
However, jetwash all of the oil off the lower engine, sump, and under the exhaust manifolds. Then give it a short run, and examine the front of the engine again. If you're still convinced it's the crank seal, the remove the belt cover and the aux belt pulley from the crank and have a closer look.
I would replace the oil pressure sender just to be sure, as they are a common failure and cost less than a fiver.


The oil seal is cheap(mine cost about £6) and isn't too bad a job as long as you can undo the crank bolt which is very tight. Some simple to make tooling helps to loosen the bolt and then remove the pulley.

[Kevin Wood]

Probably worth removing the cam belt backplate while you're there, just to make sure it's not running down from the camshaft oil seals, although they don't seem to give much trouble.

[serek]

I had numbers of times where we replace timing belt , then clean all dirt round lower sump, after job done car road tested notice of fresh oil on sump , so here we go again !!!! take all apart again , now when replace timing belt every time new oil seal it fitted 

[Boatboy]

Thanks for the replies.

I can do the first part ok though it'll probably be degreaser rather than jetwash as thats what I have to hand. I'll get on to that when I get the chance.

If it still looks like the crank seal and bearing in mind the current ommissions from my toolkit (cam locking kit, bigger torque wrench, homemade crank locking tool etc) I might just put in another shift at work and pass the job to someone already set up to do it. Not that I'm adverse to buying/making tools and getting grubby, far from it, but realisticly I hope not to need to do this again in the life of this Omega and there arent any newer ones around.

Steve

[Nick W]

Steve, the homemade crank locking tool is a piece of bar 450mm long  to lock against the water pump.


Like this:





Holes 1&2 are 28mm apart, holes 2&3 are 58mm apart; they're all 10mm diameter.
Hole 4 is tapped M8, and a bolt through it against the loose crank bolt pulls the cam belt pulley off the crank

[serek]

Thanks for the replies.

I can do the first part ok though it'll probably be degreaser rather than jetwash as thats what I have to hand. I'll get on to that when I get the chance.

If it still looks like the crank seal and bearing in mind the current ommissions from my toolkit (cam locking kit, bigger torque wrench, homemade crank locking tool etc) I might just put in another shift at work and pass the job to someone already set up to do it. Not that I'm adverse to buying/making tools and getting grubby, far from it, but realisticly I hope not to need to do this again in the life of this Omega and there arent any newer ones around.

Steve

If you get stuck ,I'm just under hour up A1 happy to do that seal for you