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Author Topic: Hole in cill pre MOT  (Read 1943 times)

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terry paget

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Hole in cill pre MOT
« on: 04 October 2017, 20:03:27 »

2.6 petrol manula saloon
Daughter Catherine brought her car home for MOT recently. It drives perfectly, all electrics work, exhaust is fine. I was putting on a better set of wheels and tyres, and thought I would check the cills for holes at the point by the rear wheel jacking points where testers attack with picks. Offside was fine, I wirebrushed it and undersealed it, but the nearside was not so good. I removed the cill cover and wirebrushed it. Please advise how I should proceed from here.
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Migv6

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #1 on: 04 October 2017, 20:06:04 »

The only answer is to cut out the rust and weld new metal in its place.
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Entwood

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #2 on: 04 October 2017, 20:08:46 »


<snip>

 Please advise how I should proceed from here.


Trip to a friendly welder for removal of rotten metal and replacement with new ... the only way to sort that problem. I had both sides done on mine 2 years ago .. 600 but that was for complete new cills both sides. Not purchased ones, he fabricated them himself.

beaten to it ....by migv6 ... again .....  :-\
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VXL V6

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #3 on: 04 October 2017, 20:27:54 »

I bought some replacement sills from Cars2 and Daz just cut the bits off he required to replace the rusty sections he cut out.  :y
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Mutha Jugs n Speed

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #4 on: 04 October 2017, 21:10:56 »

Just had the same situation as I described in another post, the car was potentially a candidate for the scrappy as the rust damage was extensive, and although the guy who did the repairs was old school and had the skills to do a really excellent and hopefully permanent repair,the bill was  eye watering and has made me realise that I could be spending my hard earned elswhere ::)
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terry paget

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #5 on: 04 October 2017, 21:53:01 »

Thanks for all the advice. I was hoping I could put on a patch on the area visible by the jacking point, as the MOT tester did on my 3.2, both sides, for 300. 600 would buy me another Omega. Below I depict the 3.2 hole. There were other holes in the 3.2 cill, but a\ll they patched was the bit by the jacking point.

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Entwood

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #6 on: 04 October 2017, 21:56:26 »

I guess it depends on how long you wish to keep the car, I did mine the "expensive" way because getting another omega that runs as well on LPG would be impossible, and the cost of converting a non-LPG to LPG would be a lot more than 600, so mines a "keeper" at the moment .... (although shes being a pain right now .. we'll hopefully soon get her better .. :) )
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Nick W

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #7 on: 04 October 2017, 22:56:40 »

Terry, your chances of paying 600 for an Omega that doesn't look like that are very poor. Fix what you have(fitting a complete sill isn't much more work than an MOT lashup) or move onto newer cars that aren't as crusty.
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Migv6

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #8 on: 05 October 2017, 00:06:16 »

My answer was to buy a MIG welder and teach myself to weld. Not to a really high standard, but good enough for under car repairs.
As Webby says "A grinder & paint, can make a welder what he aint."  ;)
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terry paget

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #9 on: 05 October 2017, 06:11:02 »

Thank you gentlemen. Buying a MIG welder and teaching myself to use it is my preferred option. What was the welder you recommended recently, Nick? Is it reasonable to buy a welder, read the instructions that come with it, and teach myself how to do it, or do I need a college course?
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biggriffin

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #10 on: 05 October 2017, 08:21:11 »

Go old skool, bit of cardboard, some p38 bit of filler and then slap undersill everywhere. :y
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Lazydocker

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #11 on: 05 October 2017, 11:33:14 »

Go old skool, bit of cardboard, some p38 bit of filler and then slap undersill everywhere. :y

Depends if he's willing to do that to the car his daughter (and possibly grandchildren) are running around in... It'll only get worse and there's a good reason it is a prescribed area  ;)

At least use chemical metal if you're going to bodge it
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terry paget

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #12 on: 05 October 2017, 13:57:49 »

Terry, your chances of paying 600 for an Omega that doesn't look like that are very poor. Fix what you have(fitting a complete sill isn't much more work than an MOT lashup) or move onto newer cars that aren't as crusty.
Fair comment Nick, but there are some rust free cars out there, trouble is spotting them. I have 2 good 1999 estates costing (305 and 257), and a 2.2 saloon that cost 190 that's also pretty good. Are estates in general better for rust than saloons? On e-bay all I have to go on is the rear wheel arches in the pictures, what the vendor tells me, and the length of MOT. Have any menbers any more suggestions?
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Migv6

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #13 on: 05 October 2017, 14:05:43 »

My welder is a Clark 135 T, as recommended by TB and others on OOF. I'm glad I bought it as its quite an easy machine to learn with and produce acceptable results.  :y
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Nick W

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Re: Hole in cill pre MOT
« Reply #14 on: 05 October 2017, 18:30:41 »

Thank you gentlemen. Buying a MIG welder and teaching myself to use it is my preferred option. What was the welder you recommended recently, Nick? Is it reasonable to buy a welder, read the instructions that come with it, and teach myself how to do it, or do I need a college course?


That's how I did it, but I had been using a stick welder before. Even with that experience, lots of practice was necessary before I considered welding the car.


A college course isn't necessary, but half an hours instruction from somebody who knows what they're doing will considerably reduce your learning curve. You will need to buy a sheet the same thickness as the car; buying thicker than that is a waste of time and money as you will still need to practice on the correct size. If you can get it sheared into 6"(ish) squares do so.


What else do you have in the way of tools? You won't do any electric welding without an angle grinder and an assortment of cutting/sanding discs. You MUST use PPE; a proper welding mask, gloves, safety goggles, and thick cotton overalls are required, and a good large fire extinguisher is a damn good idea. Using the disposable gas cylinders is expensive, and they don't make for very good welds; a proper cylinder and regulator is likely to cost another 150.


My welder is a semi-industrial machine, and would cost over a grand to replace so I can't really advise on a machine. I would be looking at buying an inverter based machine if I had to buy a new welder.


Realistically, you're looking at spending 500 before you put a torch anywhere near a car. Unless you're expecting to use the tools a lot, I would suggest that's not good value. The <<200 machines will do what you need, but not in a beginner's hands.
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