The angles will change as you bounce along, but they should return to original settings when car is returned to set up position. One should set camber first, then front toe-in. The fineness and ease of toe-in adjustment, compared with the crudeness and difficulty of camber adjustment, suggests that toe-in is the most critical; it's all my tyre shops do.
My rough and ready method of wheel alignment does set the steering wheel central with wheels pointing straight ahead, and is done with front suspension loaded and wheels off the ground. I suppose I should seat 2 average persons in the front seats when setting things up, but I don't bother.
Doc Gollum told me some while ago that Wheels in Motion, Chesham, set wheel alignment with the suspension hanging down unloaded, using special settings. This could work, but does not sound ideal.
Not strictly true... because their system is permanently connected to the car from initial setup, the readings are taken with the weight on the wheels. If an adjustment is needed then AS THE CAR IS RAISED, the computer still "knows" all the original positions, and all adjustments are "relative" to the original settings. When all adjustments are completed the weight is put back on the wheels and a final check made. If done correctly they will be spot on. All "hunter" machines work the same way, so providing the operator knows what they are doing it works every time, trouble is... not all operators do ...
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Topic: Changing steering box; remove drop arm or disconnect from track rod? (Read 6114 times)