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[Auto Addict]

As it is extremely difficult to get into a facelift if the battery goes flat I have decided to embark on the following project.

Fix a 'caravan type' socket (which is reasonably waterproof) to the scuttle tray underneath the front of the vehicle.

Wire a positive lead (with an inline 1amp fuse) to the + terminal of the battery.

Wire a negative lead to a 0v earth.

Then using a 12v, .500 amp charger, with a 'caravan type' plug on the end, I can charge the battery without needing to get into the car.

I take your point Mark about the boot, but you cannot get into the boot on mine if the battery is flat.

Any feedback would be welcomed.

[miked]

I have a facelift, why is it difficult to get into them if the battery is flat?

It seems like a lot of effort to go to, with a healty battery you shouldn't have any problems?

1 amp  :-?

[Martin_1962]

I need to see if my 12N or 12S has a direct route to battery, or at least just add a direct feed on a spare pin

[Taxi_Driver]

As it is extremely difficult to get into a facelift if the battery goes flat I have decided to embark on the following project.

Fix a 'caravan type' socket (which is reasonably waterproof) to the scuttle tray underneath the front of the vehicle.

Wire a positive lead (with an inline 1amp fuse) to the + terminal of the battery.

Wire a negative lead to a 0v earth.

Then using a 12v, .500 amp charger, with a 'caravan type' plug on the end, I can charge the battery without needing to get into the car.

I take your point Mark about the boot, but you cannot get into the boot on mine if the battery is flat.

Any feedback would be welcomed.

If the battery was dead flat, which it would need to be, not to operate the central locking......I would imagine a .5amp charger would take forever and a day to charge the battery.

Look at page 58 in your manual AA, in mine it tells how to open the drivers door in the event of a flat battery  

[Andy B]

.......
Look at page 58 in your manual AA, in mine it tells how to open the drivers door in the event of a flat battery  

:-?Put the key in the driver's door lock & turn it?  :-?  

[Martin_1962]

.......
Look at page 58 in your manual AA, in mine it tells how to open the drivers door in the event of a flat battery  

:-?Put the key in the driver's door lock & turn it?  :-?  

Hard work for AA?

[RonaldMcBurger]

Sounds great! have you ordered a new alterbnator yet then? - to replace the one you will damage by charging the battery stuill connected to the alternator ?

[Taxi_Driver]

.......
Look at page 58 in your manual AA, in mine it tells how to open the drivers door in the event of a flat battery  

:-?Put the key in the driver's door lock & turn it?  :-?  

Hard work for AA?

It says basically that if the car has been deadlocked using the remote and car battery goes flat....then insert key turn clockwise and pass the point off resistance, then back to upright position and remove key......door will then open but the door lock button remains in the down position.

Think this works on prefacelifts too

[TheBoy]

Yes, a deadlocked car can still be opened with key - though it is scary due to amount of resistance, and feels like key is going to break first....

[x25xe]

Seems a good idea to me - BUT what Ronnie says is correct - you should never charge a battery with the alternator still connected.  You could always put a diode in line with the alternator output in order to prevent any back flow, but you would need a heafty one (+ 120AMP) which I doubt is even available.  You could also use a switch, one of those battery security switches would be ideal.

However, for all the hassle is it worth it?

What about one of those solar panel chargers - does anyone know who they get around the alternator problem?

Another answer is you could always fit a bigger battery meant for a deisel.  These have a higher AH rating which means they are better suited to periods of non use.

Hope this helps

[Marks DTM Calib]

The problem Auto Addict has is that due to the many short journeys he does the battery slowly loses its charge (the start current is not replaced adn its worse when cold).

The charger chosen is a trickle charger and is safe to connect to the battery when installed in the vehicle (its a controlled voltage units with smoothed output) adn will not damage any internals.

Sounds like a good idea AA....you might want to look at something smaller than a trailer hook-up though....

[Auto Addict]

I went to Maplins yesterday, didn't seem to have anything suitable that could be exposed to the elements.

Mark, the reason I thought of a trailer hook up is, many years ago, I used to tow a trailer and have lots of bits and pieces, and also, they are reasonably water proof.

RMcB, why would it damage the alternator?

[Taxi_Driver]

The problem Auto Addict has is that due to the many short journeys he does the battery slowly loses its charge (the start current is not replaced adn its worse when cold).

The charger chosen is a trickle charger and is safe to connect to the battery when installed in the vehicle (its a controlled voltage units with smoothed output) adn will not damage any internals.

Sounds like a good idea AA....you might want to look at something smaller than a trailer hook-up though....

If AA's doing loads of short journeys and battery is suffering.....it sounds like to me a good idea to use the 0.5 amp trickle charger whenever he's parked up at home.....that way battery will stay happy and never flat enuf not to start the 2.2......i assume you either have a garage or can park your meega close enough to your house to run the mains cable  

[Taxi_Driver]

Or alternatively......just take the Omega out once a week and blat it down the motorway for 20 mins......enuf to recharge the battery.....opppss i forgot you dont go over 45mph.....so forget that silly suggestion  

[Auto Addict]

The problem with batteries is mainly over the winter months, short journeys hammer a battery and it is never really fully charged.

Even long journeys, if you are sat in a lot of traffic jams (quite usual in todays type of motoring), with lights, heater etc. on you may never really fully charge a battery during the winter months.

How often do you check the condition of your battery with a meter?

Nearly everyone assumes because the car started in the morning, the battery is OK, then suddenly, one morning - nothing!

Even newish batteries can let you down over the winter months.

My philosophy is, prevention is better than cure.

[The Barge Captain]

Cheap and nasty battery chargers have a very rough DC output which could damage the diodes in the alternator.  Difficult to know how bad yours might or might not be without specialist electrical test equipment.

However, if you have a "Farnell" PSU like wot i does, that only has a 2 amp output, but it is totally pure DC.  Not a bump or ripple in it - even better than the alternator  (or auto nater as i once saw a second hand one advertised in the free ads paper)

[Auto Addict]

Cheap and nasty battery chargers have a very rough DC output which could damage the diodes in the alternator.  Difficult to know how bad yours might or might not be without specialist electrical test equipment.

However, if you have a "Farnell" PSU like wot i does, that only has a 2 amp output, but it is totally pure DC.  Not a bump or ripple in it - even better than the alternator  (or auto nater as i once saw a second hand one advertised in the free ads paper)

The battery charger chosen only has a range of 200 to 800 ma.

[Taxi_Driver]

The problem with batteries is mainly over the winter months, short journeys hammer a battery and it is never really fully charged.

Even long journeys, if you are sat in a lot of traffic jams (quite usual in todays type of motoring), with lights, heater etc. on you may never really fully charge a battery during the winter months.

How often do you check the condition of your battery with a meter?

Nearly everyone assumes because the car started in the morning, the battery is OK, then suddenly, one morning - nothing!

Even newish batteries can let you down over the winter months.

My philosophy is, prevention is better than cure.

Good idea AA to keep the bat topped up as you do many short runs.....
I never check my battery i admit.....if a car starts to struggle to start then i just go get another battery for it.
I had to get another battery for my merc last winter.....the battery had been fine....car started every morning ok....then the car got left stood still for 2 weeks....the driver went on hols.
Result was battery went flat.....i assume coz of alarm draining it.....central locking still worked...but it wouldnt turn the engine over.....i did try charging the battery, but wouldnt hold a charge....i think it was the fact that it had been left flat that killed it off.

The only thing i would suggest about your project is.....

I dont see how its going to help you get into your car if the battery has died completely
Ie if the batt was ok the day before for example......and died completely overnight....so remote central locking wont even work....i think the battery is never going to get enough charge from a 1/2amp trickle charge to operate the central locking.

So my suggestion would be......if you dont want to do the force the key in the lock approach...

Is to run a +ve wire from the battery to a stud that you access from the front underneath protected with a cover....fused near as you can to the battery with say a 20amp fuse.

Then you can either connect another battery or a heavy duty enuf 12v power supply (not a 12v car battery charger) to the stud and and earth point using crock clips....this will enable the central locking to work.

Use your 1/2 amp trickle charger with a couple of crock clips connected to you battery, when your car is parked up at home.....place it in the engine bay and shut the bonnet and lock the car.

Cheers

[Auto Addict]

The idea is TD, not to let the battery 'die' in the first place. My last battery died after I had been on holiday for 2 weeks. Neither myself, or the RAC bloke could get into the car forcing the key.

Had to put a current through the starter motor to get into the car.

I think, and so does Mark, that the charger would provide enough current to operate the doors by remote.

Although I have a double garage, my car will not fit in it, so it tends to get left out on the drive, the project seemed to be an easy way of charging, and an emergency power supply source, if needed.

If the battery ever dies again, and the charger will not provide enough current to open the doors, I can easily connect another battery to the socket, without (a) trying to force the lock, or (b) crawling under the car to try and get some current through the starter motor.

What I shall do, next time I go on holiday without the car, is to connect the charger to a timer, and give the battery a trickle from time to time.

[Auto Addict]

Project completed!

[Allenm]

Go on then ... what did you do in the end??  Any pics??

[Auto Addict]

Go on then ... what did you do in the end??  Any pics??

Can't post any pics as most of it's concealed.

Basicaly, I've use an inline plug and socket to make the conection.

[Allenm]

Sounds good    hope it works for you!

[Auto Addict]

If you're going to the Pod, you can have a look.

[Taxi_Driver]

Project completed!

Well done AA