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Messages - prj

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31
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Remote key coding
« on: 03 May 2012, 14:32:13 »
I have a problem with coding a key to my Omega-B FL.
Tried various tools, including universal locksmith tools and I get the same problem.

I bought the car pass from my dealer in digital form, it came with three codes - key mechanical, radio, immo (I guess "immo" is the security code?).
Now, I can use the "immo" code to log into the immobilizer and code keys.
However, if I go into the anti theft warning system, I can not login using the same code. It just says that the PIN is invalid.

From everything I have read, and from Locksmith experience, the PIN between the anti-theft warning system and the immobilizer should be identical.
It is not the case for me, however.

What could be the problem? Are the ATW control units prone to failure by any chance? Could it be that someone replaced the unit on my car?
And this will probably not answered - but does anyone know if I can open the unit, dump an EEPROM and find the pin in there? I have all the equipment...

32
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 19:26:18 »
51 mg is ECU calibration limit with the way the pump map is set up in the ECU, not injector limit.
Pump and injectors can do more. Turbo can also do more, it's pretty big for this engine.

It's possible to get more out of it by raising boost and recalibrating maps, but you need to watch EGT's, else you will warp the head.

33
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:55:03 »
It is done.
You also have permission to mirror the images from my site locally and use them for the purpose of displaying this FAQ on this website.

Hope this helps :)

34
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Re: Re: Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:53:59 »
The 51mg/stroke limit

As you might have noticed, we are capped at 51 mg/stroke, because this value is 0xFF or 255.
To look at how to get around this, one has to remember how the ECU works.

The mg/stroke conversion (X*0.2) is only there in this amount, because of how the second part of the ECU is calibrated to deliver fuel.
The IQ is only a value that gets passed to the second processor, and if we modify how the second processor sees that value, then we can get higher actual IQ's.

In the second chip is the quantity adjustment map, which tells the ECU the control voltage to reach a certain IQ.
We can either raise only the very edge of this map, so that the low-end calibrations in the first chip remain the same - but that would mean that our IQ is not a linear number anymore, and that makes it hard to tune. Or alternatively, it can be done the right way - the entire quantity adjustment map can be shifted to the left, to obtain a different scaling for IQ in general, but this would mean re-adjusting every map in the IQ calibration.

Either way, both methods require adjusting the injection timing, and over 51 mg/stroke the boost should be raised to reduce EGT, so this is a more involving project on this car - installing a boost controller, boost gauge and recalibrating a lot of maps. There is simply too little to gain for a lot of work in my opinion, but with bigger injectors there is a lot more potential, and it can all be done with the stock control unit.

Conclusion

I hope you learned something about chip tuning by reading this. Of course, most people who "do chip tuning" just copy someone else's tuned files for easy money and never get the understanding of what goes on inside. Blindly trusting a file can easily lead to mechanical failure of components, because you never know if the calibrations have been performed correctly, or if the tuner just randomly raised some maps.
I also did not cover checksumming the files - I guess you will have to find something out on your own ;)

35
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Re: Re: Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:53:30 »
Driver's wish

The first map of interest is the Driver's wish map. This map is for requested IQ by the driver based on RPM and throttle position.
It is located at  0x7DA0. Let's take this map as an example on how to read axes and dimensions of the map.

Here it is in hex form:


F8 20 is an axis identifier. 20 in this case is RPM. After the axis identifier there is the axis length, which is 0C or 12 in decimal.
After the length are the actual axis values themselves. 12 of them, as the length indicates.
Now comes the next axis identifier - FA 2B. 2B is throttle position, and it's length is 0E or 14.
So what can we conclude from this? We have a map of RPM x Throttle position, with the dimensions of 12 x 14. The only such map in this ECU is the Driver's wish, and it's output is IQ.
Of course you don't always know the axis identifiers. While RPM is usually 0x20 in these older  ECU's, throttle position can vary, but you can also tell the maps apart by their shape.

Let's take a look at the map with conversions applied. For RPM this is X*20, for TPS it is X/2.55 and for IQ we have X*0.2 in this ECU.
Here is the map itself in TunerPro:


And in 3D:


Tuning this map allows us to adjust how the throttle reacts. When tuning for performance, the important part is to make sure that enough IQ is requested.
We can see that the last column (>90% throttle opening) always requests 51mg/str. Since 51mg/str is the maximum in this ECU (255*0.2=51), this map does not need to be modified, unless you want to alter throttle pedal behaviour for some reason.

Smoke limiter

The smoke limiter map limits injected IQ based on mass air flow read from the MAF. If we did not have this map, the engine would be flooded every time the driver gave the car a lot of throttle, because there would not be enough air in the engine to combust the fuel.
Why is it called smoke limiter? Because diesel starts to smoke quite a bit when it is running rich, so this map limits smoke among other things.

The map is located at 0x7BB0, it is a 12 x 12 map with the inputs being RPM and Airflow and the output being IQ.
Airflow is also mg/stroke, and the multiplier is X*5

Pictures:




If you think for a moment, you will realize, that this map in reality is an AFR rich limiter.
The Y axis in the map is air in mg/stroke and the output values are mg/stroke as well.
Instead of doing the calculation in your head all the time, let's just change the way we are presented with the data:

This is a lot easier to work with, and makes much more sense.

To tune this map, we need to understand how the car drives. The torque converter lockup is around 1500 rpm on this transmission. The car is very heavy (close to 1900 kg) and the turbo is not of a VNT technology, so there is turbo lag until 1900-2000 RPM.
The biggest problem is response when starting to move from standstill. We can see that the original calibrator saw this problem, and allowed for richer AFR's at the 1540 RPM point, however, at 1760 RPM this is backed off again.

Here is an illustration with the area in question highlighted:


Since the car does not really smoke (only a very light puff) at 1500 RPM, from a performance standpoint there is no real point in backing off max rich AFR at 1760 RPM.
Also, it is possible to add a little more fuel at 1540 RPM as well, to make the car a bit faster off the line.

We can also make sure that the top end (airflow > 850 mg/stroke) is not limited by the map and the ECU can always inject enough. The maximum once again is 51 mg/stroke (255).
The final tuned map looks like this:


Or in AFR mode:


Torque limiter

In this binary there are two of these maps, and they are identical. The map is used for component protection through engine torque limitation.
The maps are located at 0x75E0 and 0x7610, and have 20 values, based on RPM.



When tuning limiters it is very important to understand what exactly you are doing and why.
With the stock automatic gearbox, this map can't be tuned at all. The stock gearboxes barely handle the stock torque (and tend to fall apart), never mind increased torque. But my car's gearbox is not stock, and it is specified to handle 350nm, which this engine will not reach without hardware mods.
Also take note of the end of the map. This map is basically a rev limiter as well. On the stock map the rev limiter is very soft. We don't need it to be as soft, we just need it to be there.

The Omega is rated conservatively as 130 PS, while BMW's with the same engine have 145 PS. The only noticeable difference in the calibration is the torque limiter.
If I remember correctly, BMW's go up to 47 mg/stroke, while this car is limited to 43.

Assuming the gearbox has been upgraded, the map can be set to 51mg/stroke throughout for a nice power increase. This will net about 20 extra horsepower.
Here is a picture overlaying the original limiter and the new limiter.



Because there are two identical maps, both have to be modified.

36
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:52:33 »
Introduction

I want to give people a little overview of what a "Stage 1" tune is and just describe the general approach to chip tuning.

One of my cars is MY2000 Opel Omega-B 2.5TD, and I will use this one as an example.

What makes these cars a little special, is that the engine is lifted from a BMW. It is the intercooled version of M51D25, slightly detuned.
In return, BMW's using this engine are fitted with GM's AR35 automatic transmissions.
However, Opel in their infinite wisdom used the AR25 box on the diesel and the AR35 on their petrol engines. The 25 and 35 are just torque limits - 250nm and 350nm accordingly.

I bought the car with a blown trans for peanuts, and luckily the only difference between the AR25 and AR35 are uprated internals. So I acquired an AR35, retained the torque converter and bell housing from the AR25 and hey presto, I have a transmission that can handle 350nm. After fixing the boost leaks (the intercooler on this Omega was like swiss cheese) the car can be tuned for more torque and power.

First step was to find the ECU and check how boost is controlled.
The ECU turned out to be in the fusebox under the hood, and just slides out. The connector is a typical JPT-55 used in most Bosch applications of the 90-s (remember, the engine was developed in 1991!), and the control unit itself is a Bosch MSA-11 type or in other words - ancient by even 2000's standards when the car was built. Forget any flashing, only the manual approach will lead to results.
Around the turbo there are no fancy solenoids - the boost is mechanically controlled by a spring to about 1.2-1.3 bar.

Inside the ECU

To open the ECU, a series of tabs must be unbent. The rear ones are a bitch, and it will take a while if you are doing it for the first time.
Once the casing is off, two boards are revealed. These boards are connected together by a flat ribbon cable and can be separated at the back, however there are a bunch of T8 and T20 screws that need to be undone for the ECU to come apart:
  • Four T20's under the ECU
  • Four T8's by the connector of the ECU
  • Two T8's inside the ECU under the cover
Once those are off, the entire assembly slides out.

Splitting the two boards reveals two chips soldered to the top board, marked "1 037 355 974" and "1 037 355 975", which contain the software, that needs to be tuned.
Of course, since they are soldered in, they first have to be de-soldered and sockets soldered in ("socketing the ECU").
Both chips are 27c256, 32kb UV erasable EPROM's and the main processors are 8051 derivatives.

Operation of the MSA-11 ECU

Before doing something inside the ECU one needs to understand why every change is made. The operation and algorithms of the ECU must be understood to reach a good result.
Most diesel ECU-s employ a similar control strategy. All the more modern units have their roots in the old MSA ECU's.

There are three primary inputs and one primary output that are linearized (obviously these are not the only ones):
  • RPM - taken from some sort of trigger wheel, this lets the ECU know how fast the engine is rotating.
  • TPS - driver throttle input, taken from a potentiometer at the throttle pedal.
  • Mass flow - taken from a mass airflow sensor, to let the ECU know how much air is entering the engine.
  • Pump control voltage - this is the primary output, which is used to drive the high pressure pump. It is linearized based on RPM and requested Injection Quantity, so that the ECU knows what voltage it has to supply to the pump to get a certain amount of diesel fuel into a cylinder.
Since boost is controlled mechanically, the only thing the ECU controls is when and how much fuel is delivered, and in simplified terms fuel equals torque in a diesel engine.
The fuel injection quantity (or IQ) is based on the driver pedal input, then limited by the MAF to prevent excessive smoke and also limited by a torque limiter to prevent mechanical failure.

As mentioned before, on the hardware side of things there are two main processors. The first processor calculates the required IQ and the second one takes that IQ and interfaces with the pump.
The chip with the lower software number contains all the calibration data and logic for determining IQ (plus a few other things, like glow plugs etc) and the chip with the higher number has calibrations for controlling the pump, including timing of injection start.

Mapping the MSA-11

Now that we have some theory down, let's get down to business.
I only removed the chip containing the IQ calibrations, because the SOI (start of injection) is pretty decently calibrated from factory, and since I am not going to modify the pump voltage map, I have no need to modify these calibrations (more on that later).

After reading the chip in a programmer, the first step is to find the master table. The master table contains the address references of all the other tables and it is a series of addresses.
It's generally pretty easy to find just flicking through the file with a hex editor, or you can write an automated tool that would look for ten 16 bit addresses in a row...

Anyway, the master table for this file is at 0x74D0:


Now we just have to start looking through all the addresses and as a start find the large 3D maps.

37
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 22 February 2012, 15:42:57 »
I am not really monetizing this stuff, because these modifications require sending the ECU in, unless you are comfortable with electronics work.
If any of you want to send me your ECU to mod it, I don't mind. I do this all the time, but not on 2.5TD Omega's...

Though probably there is already a such service offered on the forum, and I don't really want to compete with anyone on here.
I just remap different cars, the fact that this was an omega with an old ECU gave me a good chance to make a write-up about it, which people will understand :)

38
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 07 February 2012, 08:26:50 »
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.

I guess I could copypaste it.

Do you want this as a post in this thread?

39
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Inside the 2.5TD ECU
« on: 09 January 2012, 09:47:29 »
I spent some 1on1 time with the Omega's ECU, and documented the process of adding a little bit of power to my car.
I tried to write it so, that it is as easy to read as possible, so even if you are not familiar with everything, you should understand most of it.

You can read the entire thing here:
http://prj-tuning.com/?p=163

I am not sure if I should have posted this to General Chat instead, so if that is more appropriate, please move my post.

40
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 07 January 2012, 01:12:04 »
Fitted AR35 to the car.
Also opened up the ECU, neither of the chips were socketed, so I desoldered the lower software number one (I had 1 035 355 974/975) and fitted a socket instead.
Looked at the binary and found the main maps.

The torque limiter was capped at 43 mg/stroke. Upped it to 51 mg/stroke (max) from 2000 to 4400 rpm, also re-tuned the smoke limiter to inject more sooner.
Car spins the rear wheels now at WOT in 1st. :)

More power could be achieved by upping the quantity adjuster map in the 2nd EPROM, but for me this is enough. As my fast car I have the Audi RS4 ;)

41
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5TD 2000MY AR25 Gearbox issues
« on: 31 October 2011, 06:32:12 »
So, AR35 is in and working fine...
Got a few more problems to sort, like thermostat, washer fluid tank being full of some weird goo, washer fluid level switch, coolant level switch, screwed up sideview mirrors etc.

Just the usual...

But yeah, swapped the torque converter and bellhousing around and everything bolted right up.

42
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 20 September 2011, 16:11:48 »
No real need for the chip, I have it figured out.
Just waiting for the gearbox to arrive :)

I don't think your car boosts 2.2 bar though. 2.2 could be absolute pressure, so 1.2 bar boost.

43
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 16 September 2011, 23:32:14 »
Quote
cool, mine is chipped from a friend, full fat bmw plus, its only smoky off boost, older one with same chip didnt smoke at all, but im guessing the pump is chucking in to much fuel in an effort to spool the turbo up quicker to produce more power,really must check it for boost leak as well as it doesnt start boosting till 15/1600 rpm older one started at 1300,
good luck with mapping it, if you map petrol engines diesel should be a breeze just watch the EGT,s if they go to high say goodbye to the engine!!
Well, if you want to make as much power as possible you'll get lots of smoke, but let's stick to some sane levels here.

There are three reasons your car will smoke:
a) The smoke limiter is set too high
b) The pump voltage map is altered and the smoke limiter is not re-tuned
c) Your MAF reading is incorrect. This can be either due to faulty maf or due to boost leak.

I have all equipment to measure EGT, AFR's etc.
It's a huge lot easier to blow up a turbocharged petrol engine at high power output than one of these, trust me :)

However, if you want to make power with this car, the boost needs to be increased. Just increasing smoke limiter or pump voltage will make it smoke.

I'll fit a MBC and plug two emulators into my ECU as soon as my AR35 is fitted.

44
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 16 September 2011, 10:55:08 »
Well, comparing to 325TDS, the only difference is lower torque limiter and I think also a bit less boost.
So it makes 10hp less.

How is your car setup right now?
The boost control on these is just mechanical spring based, did you install a boost controller of some sort?

I am thinking of increasing the torque limiter and adding boost...
If your car smokes a lot, then probably just the pump voltage has been raised... or "fastfood chiptuning" with just "all maps up" :)

I usually map turbo petrol for custom builds upto 700 bhp. This diesel stuff is new to me, but seems really easy.

45
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD Elite Auto. Performance Chip?
« on: 16 September 2011, 03:19:37 »
Pretty easy to make own chip with this ancient ECU :)
I'll post up what and how once I'm done with mine, I am never going to make any money tuning these anyway.

But yeah, you need a stronger box first.

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